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- #81
LEDman
New Member
Yes, I would love to do that, but the flowering times were given as "between 11 and 13 weeks"... that's two weeks...
6x90W UFO LED - 2x600W HPS Soil Grow - Medibud - Super Silver Haze - WW
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Van Diesel
New Member
Hey bro, just read the last little bit, so fogive me if I've missed a couple things, but my two cents for the flush is since this is your first run with this strain I would split the diff and aim for harvest at 12 weeks, start the flush 2 weeks prior, and if it hits your trich color preference at week 11 make the decision then on whether your are comfortable with 1 week post flush harvest or if you don't mind a little heavier stone and let it go a little longer. I am usually pretty comfortable with a week flush in this scenario but it depends on how hard your nutes are and how hard you've pushed up to this point.
also, if I saw/read right on the one picture of the cola with the brown spot that occured after a dry-out period. Again, I may not have all the info right here, but my first thought is it looks like a gray mold spot that may have happened due to the combo of some dead leaf surface AND if you are spraying that plant or any other in the same room the added moisture, even temporarily could spark the mold spot. Thats what it looks like to me anyways. Otherwise, very nice stuff you got there!
Aloha
also, if I saw/read right on the one picture of the cola with the brown spot that occured after a dry-out period. Again, I may not have all the info right here, but my first thought is it looks like a gray mold spot that may have happened due to the combo of some dead leaf surface AND if you are spraying that plant or any other in the same room the added moisture, even temporarily could spark the mold spot. Thats what it looks like to me anyways. Otherwise, very nice stuff you got there!
Aloha
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- #83
LEDman
New Member
Thanks Van, I'll go with your advice, start flushing aiming for the 12th week and see how that goes.
To be on the safe side, I'll also cut out the brown part of the bud to allow for more aeration of the affected part. Cheers!
To be on the safe side, I'll also cut out the brown part of the bud to allow for more aeration of the affected part. Cheers!
I just got 2 90w UFO's and plan to use them in a hydro setup as a test with maybe a 400watt HPS for flowering.
Can I ask, do i need to line the walls with white or with silver reflective stuff?
As far as i can work out white is better for HIDs and HPS and reflective stuff is better for leds...
Does this sound correct.
Sorry to hijack your thread, but you seem to know whats going on.
Ill be glad if someone can help.
cheers
Can I ask, do i need to line the walls with white or with silver reflective stuff?
As far as i can work out white is better for HIDs and HPS and reflective stuff is better for leds...
Does this sound correct.
Sorry to hijack your thread, but you seem to know whats going on.
Ill be glad if someone can help.
cheers
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- #85
LEDman
New Member
Hey Dsbc, you're not hijacking anything. 
If you are strapped for cash, just paint your walls - matte white paint is only slightly less reflective than the expensive foil you can buy. It doesn't matter whether you use LED or HID as far as reflectivity is concerned.
The only thing I noticed was that if like me, you are using a basement for your endeavours, white paint may flake off due to humidity in the walls. You get that paint on your buds and they probably won't be the best smoke you could wish for. After my first batch is through with flowering and before I move my now-flowering plants to the flower room, I'll be sure to put up some black/white foil over the bare walls (the black side facing the wall to prevent mold).
And before I do that, I'mma gonna nuke the hell out of the spider mites still around - I really hate those pests and it's hard as hell to get that SNS 217 spider mite pesticide over here in Europe.
On a side note, I've begun flushing on the pre-harvest plants. For the final one or two weeks, they'll get nothing but tap water pH'd to 6.0. I am soooo looking forward to smoking those buds; growing your own is one of the most empowering things you can do. Finally, I understand farmers. *g*
If you are strapped for cash, just paint your walls - matte white paint is only slightly less reflective than the expensive foil you can buy. It doesn't matter whether you use LED or HID as far as reflectivity is concerned.
The only thing I noticed was that if like me, you are using a basement for your endeavours, white paint may flake off due to humidity in the walls. You get that paint on your buds and they probably won't be the best smoke you could wish for. After my first batch is through with flowering and before I move my now-flowering plants to the flower room, I'll be sure to put up some black/white foil over the bare walls (the black side facing the wall to prevent mold).
And before I do that, I'mma gonna nuke the hell out of the spider mites still around - I really hate those pests and it's hard as hell to get that SNS 217 spider mite pesticide over here in Europe.
On a side note, I've begun flushing on the pre-harvest plants. For the final one or two weeks, they'll get nothing but tap water pH'd to 6.0. I am soooo looking forward to smoking those buds; growing your own is one of the most empowering things you can do. Finally, I understand farmers. *g*
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- #86
LEDman
New Member
@VanDiesel: I just wanted to add that I cut out the brown parts of the bud in the picture and - yay! - there was no sign of mold there. I guess the additional aeration won't be the worst thing for the rest of the bud, so I'll knock on wood and see how things go from here.
Van Diesel
New Member
@VanDiesel: I just wanted to add that I cut out the brown parts of the bud in the picture and - yay! - there was no sign of mold there. I guess the additional aeration won't be the worst thing for the rest of the bud, so I'll knock on wood and see how things go from here.
Good news indeed!
If you are having that hard a time getting the SNS products out there, I would suggest seeing if you can find Azamax. Its the concentrate of the active natural insectiside found in the neem plant, totally organic, very effective, can use as a foliar, soil drench, or hydro recirculating system. Also, I've seen huge benefit with using Superthrive, a supplement, that has huge benefit to your plant health including seeming to really help my plants natural resistance to pests (not to mention growth/structure benefits). I find it much more effective than the pyrethrium products I've tried, but good to use both (treat with one then on next treatment rotate products).
Good luck, I know that battle and it does kinda suck, but is winnable!
Aloha
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- #88
LEDman
New Member
I even went on Ebay to get a hold of SNS - and what happens? The only seller tells me they're not listed with our Ministry of Agriculture... *cry*
At least they promised me to send enough samples for free to help take care of my troubles...
At least they promised me to send enough samples for free to help take care of my troubles...
LED my friend, here is some information on efflorescence, which is what is probably causing your paint to flake off.
Efflorescence is a crystaline deposit on surfaces of masonry, stucco or concrete. It is whitish in appear-ance, and is sometimes referred to as "whiskers". Efflorescence has been a problem for many years, and is a topic of much controversy. The formation of these salt deposits are not mysteries. They are, for the most part, water-soluble salts that come from many possible sources to mar and detract from an other-wise beautiful and serviceable structure. First of all, there must be water present to dissolve and trans-port the salts. Groundwater is often a source of efflorescence. For water to carry or move the salts to the surface there must be channels through which to move and migrate. The more dense the material, whether it be brick, stone, stucco or concrete, the more difficult for the water to transport salts to the surface. Conversely, the more porous the material, the greater the ease with which salts are transported and deposited. Salt-bearing water, on reaching the surface of a structure, air evaporates to deposit the salt. When humidity is low, the water may evaporate before reaching the surface of the structure, leaving the salt deposit beneath the surface, and unseen. When the humidity is high, water evaporation is slower allowing more opportunity for whisker growth.Since humidity has a definite effect on whether or not the salts appear, it can be assumed that efflores-cence is a seasonal problem. The intensity of efflorescence increases after rainy winter seasons, de-creases in spring, and by summer has practically disappeared. This cycle may repeat for months or years, but generally the intensity of the efflorescence decreases in all but very extreme cases, and by about the third year it should be practically eliminated.
Removal of Efflorescence
Several methods are suggested. One is to use water under pressure or one of a number of products available from stone dealers; another is muriatic acid with subse-quent flushing with water. Acid applied to brick masonry, without previous wetting, may cause "burning" or discoloration of the brick and may also eat into the mortar. The Handbook on Reinforced Grouted Brick Masonry Construction suggests the use of light sandblasting for removal of stubborn efflorescence (after many months). Allowing the surface to dry thoroughly and then using a stiff brush, prior to wash-ing with water, has helped prevent re-penetration of the surface by the salt.
Various methods have been used in attempts to remove efflorescence from masonry structures. It has been found that when efflorescence is caused by soluble alkali salts, the salts will dissolve in water applied to the structure and migrate back into it. These salts would then reappear on the surface as the structure redried. It was learned accordingly, that the best way to remove these soluble salts was to brush the surface thoroughly with a stiff brush. Water, however, has been satisfactory for removing efflorescence from the face of concrete structures, since concrete is fairly well saturated with water. In fact, efflorescence in the form of alkali salts will be washed from the surface of concrete structures, if exposed to rain, over some period of time. If the coating is largely calcium carbonate or calcium sulfate, it adheres rather strongly and is difficult to remove by brushing. The practice developed in this case for masonry surfaces, has been to saturate the structure as thoroughly as possible with water, and then wash with diluted muriatic acid, followed immediately with an alkaline wash, then washed with water. The acid recommended is five (5) parts hydrochloric to one hundred (100) parts water, or twenty (20) parts vinegar to one hundred (100) parts water. The alkaline wash recommended is diluted household ammonia.
Much care must be taken in applying acid to Portland cement products. The acid will attack, not only the calcium carbonate and calcium sulfate efflorescence, but also other calcium compounds to produce calcium salts such as calcium chloride. It is, therefore, very important to neutralize the acid before it can attack other compounds.
Sorry about hijacking your thread my friend, hope that this was a help. I deal with this stuff almost weekly in my line of work. After treatment, I recommend painting the walls with Dry-Loc, and then with a high quality white exterior paint, with microban and anti-mold agents, a good choice would be Behr Premium Plus Ultra, it is affordable anyways, and easy to get.
Stay green, God bless, and PEEEEEAAAAAACCCCCEEEEE!!!
Efflorescence is a crystaline deposit on surfaces of masonry, stucco or concrete. It is whitish in appear-ance, and is sometimes referred to as "whiskers". Efflorescence has been a problem for many years, and is a topic of much controversy. The formation of these salt deposits are not mysteries. They are, for the most part, water-soluble salts that come from many possible sources to mar and detract from an other-wise beautiful and serviceable structure. First of all, there must be water present to dissolve and trans-port the salts. Groundwater is often a source of efflorescence. For water to carry or move the salts to the surface there must be channels through which to move and migrate. The more dense the material, whether it be brick, stone, stucco or concrete, the more difficult for the water to transport salts to the surface. Conversely, the more porous the material, the greater the ease with which salts are transported and deposited. Salt-bearing water, on reaching the surface of a structure, air evaporates to deposit the salt. When humidity is low, the water may evaporate before reaching the surface of the structure, leaving the salt deposit beneath the surface, and unseen. When the humidity is high, water evaporation is slower allowing more opportunity for whisker growth.Since humidity has a definite effect on whether or not the salts appear, it can be assumed that efflores-cence is a seasonal problem. The intensity of efflorescence increases after rainy winter seasons, de-creases in spring, and by summer has practically disappeared. This cycle may repeat for months or years, but generally the intensity of the efflorescence decreases in all but very extreme cases, and by about the third year it should be practically eliminated.
Removal of Efflorescence
Several methods are suggested. One is to use water under pressure or one of a number of products available from stone dealers; another is muriatic acid with subse-quent flushing with water. Acid applied to brick masonry, without previous wetting, may cause "burning" or discoloration of the brick and may also eat into the mortar. The Handbook on Reinforced Grouted Brick Masonry Construction suggests the use of light sandblasting for removal of stubborn efflorescence (after many months). Allowing the surface to dry thoroughly and then using a stiff brush, prior to wash-ing with water, has helped prevent re-penetration of the surface by the salt.
Various methods have been used in attempts to remove efflorescence from masonry structures. It has been found that when efflorescence is caused by soluble alkali salts, the salts will dissolve in water applied to the structure and migrate back into it. These salts would then reappear on the surface as the structure redried. It was learned accordingly, that the best way to remove these soluble salts was to brush the surface thoroughly with a stiff brush. Water, however, has been satisfactory for removing efflorescence from the face of concrete structures, since concrete is fairly well saturated with water. In fact, efflorescence in the form of alkali salts will be washed from the surface of concrete structures, if exposed to rain, over some period of time. If the coating is largely calcium carbonate or calcium sulfate, it adheres rather strongly and is difficult to remove by brushing. The practice developed in this case for masonry surfaces, has been to saturate the structure as thoroughly as possible with water, and then wash with diluted muriatic acid, followed immediately with an alkaline wash, then washed with water. The acid recommended is five (5) parts hydrochloric to one hundred (100) parts water, or twenty (20) parts vinegar to one hundred (100) parts water. The alkaline wash recommended is diluted household ammonia.
Much care must be taken in applying acid to Portland cement products. The acid will attack, not only the calcium carbonate and calcium sulfate efflorescence, but also other calcium compounds to produce calcium salts such as calcium chloride. It is, therefore, very important to neutralize the acid before it can attack other compounds.
Sorry about hijacking your thread my friend, hope that this was a help. I deal with this stuff almost weekly in my line of work. After treatment, I recommend painting the walls with Dry-Loc, and then with a high quality white exterior paint, with microban and anti-mold agents, a good choice would be Behr Premium Plus Ultra, it is affordable anyways, and easy to get.
Stay green, God bless, and PEEEEEAAAAAACCCCCEEEEE!!!
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- #90
LEDman
New Member
Hey GT, that's exactly what's happening to me. It's always nice to meet people "in the know" to learn from. I'll go to my local home depot and get what you recommended (or close substitutes) after the first batch of ladies is through with flowering.
Would you recommend scrubbing the room with bleach to kill off any remaining spider mite eggs?
Would you recommend scrubbing the room with bleach to kill off any remaining spider mite eggs?
Yes, bleach will also do many other wonders, just dilute it down though, I would use maybe 1/8 a cup per gallon of water. Ohh, and I would definately wait until they are finished, lol, no immediate risk, but that day and a half of work in between the next grow will save you lots of time in the future, and make for a cleaner grow environment, and we all know that never hurts!! 
Anytime my friend!!!
Anytime my friend!!!
How did this grow turn out?
We would love to be updated with some pictures and info!
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I am moving this to abandoned journals until we get updates.
Thanks and hope all is well in your world!
Love and respect from all of us here at 420 Magazine!
We would love to be updated with some pictures and info!
How about posting a 420 Strain Review?
If you need any help with posting photos, please read the photo gallery tutorial:
Photo Gallery Guide: How to Resize, Upload & Post Photos
I am moving this to abandoned journals until we get updates.
Thanks and hope all is well in your world!
Love and respect from all of us here at 420 Magazine!
Hope all is well my friend..
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- #94
LEDman
New Member
Yes indeed, everything has been going well and the first batch is chopped and drying!
I've taken the liberty of smoking a sample of the MediBud and the SSH for y'all and I must say - wow!
The MediBud has a mellowing, calming high - too much and you get a short couchlock followed by a dreamy sensation.
The SSH is where the music's at, though - energetic, cerebral high that lasts and lasts and lasts... clearly my favourite, but also the spider mites' fav plant. Those pests keep bugging my second batch a lot, although I've managed to keep their numbers under control.
The second batch is grown exclusively under LED/CFL, so I'll be mighty interested how that turns out in comparison to the first batch vegged under LED and then flowered under HPS.
Sorry for not posting for so long, I've been immensely busy in my "first life" and was very, very thankful for the automatic watering I rigged up earlier...
I've taken the liberty of smoking a sample of the MediBud and the SSH for y'all and I must say - wow!
The MediBud has a mellowing, calming high - too much and you get a short couchlock followed by a dreamy sensation.
The SSH is where the music's at, though - energetic, cerebral high that lasts and lasts and lasts... clearly my favourite, but also the spider mites' fav plant. Those pests keep bugging my second batch a lot, although I've managed to keep their numbers under control.
The second batch is grown exclusively under LED/CFL, so I'll be mighty interested how that turns out in comparison to the first batch vegged under LED and then flowered under HPS.
Sorry for not posting for so long, I've been immensely busy in my "first life" and was very, very thankful for the automatic watering I rigged up earlier...
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