Auto flower: Need help spots and tips of leaves burning, Foxfarm ocean soil week 7 grow

Auto Grower9

420 Member
Ph water around 6.5 every time, using calmag every other feeding and top dressed with dr earth dry amendment 3-9-4 about a week ago
Problem has gotten worse over the past week so I’m guessing the top dressing had something to do with it.

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Ph water around 6.5 every time, using calmag every other feeding and top dressed with dr earth dry amendment 3-9-4 about a week ago
Problem has gotten worse over the past week so I’m guessing the top dressing had something to do with it.

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Beautiful looking girl my friend. Welcome to 420. :welcome: I don't run autos or fox farms soil. There are many smart growers using that soil here im sure they will be alone shortly with any observations. What i see is dark green bottom leaves with lighter colored new growth, as I'm not experienced in that soil i won't say anything for now. Happy growing friend.
 
Ph water around 6.5 every time, using calmag every other feeding and top dressed with dr earth dry amendment 3-9-4 about a week ago
Problem has gotten worse over the past week so I’m guessing the top dressing had something to do with it.

Hi @Auto Grower9 and welcome to the forum!
A couple of questions as I try to understand your grow. I don't think your top dressing caused the problem... I think it is something more basic.
I am assuming that you are not feeding the plant with anything but the Dr. Earth. Let me ask you if you are also taking care of your microbes that are actually feeding your plants, by using clean water? Chlorine in tap water will eventually stop the organic feeding cycle without you regularly adding to the microbes.
Then you are also pH adjusting your water. Why? It is not necessary in this type of grow. The only reason we pH adjust is when using synthetic nutes that are locked up tight in the bottle until they get into a medium where the pH is within the 6.2-6.8 range. If you are not using synthetic nutes, there is no reason to pH adjust your water... you are just killing microbes by adding the acid to your water.
I would suggest two things... clean RO water from now on... no pH adjusting. Also look into a microbial inoculation product, such as voodoo juice, URB or realgrower's recharge, to get the microbe population up to where it needs to be. It is my belief that these things will get you sorted without changing anything else. If not, I see a lightening of color near the top that will continue to get worse and the dead spots at the tips of your leaves don't look like nute burn, they look like the start of a potassium deficiency, that again is only going to get worse. Dr. Earth is good stuff, but without the microbes thriving, the plants won't be able to get to it.
 
Nice stuff, ocean forest is what I'm using but with MC and a calcium solution. I used one with calmag and it almost fried my stuff. I think it's ok for the not needing extra magnesium in the ocean forest, and every other feeding for cal. You could try water feeding from the bottom and try letting the plant absorb the extra nutrients on top.. I dont know how that top dressing works and Emilya definitely knows more about it, I would use her advice. GG
 
Hi @Auto Grower9 and welcome to the forum!
A couple of questions as I try to understand your grow. I don't think your top dressing caused the problem... I think it is something more basic.
I am assuming that you are not feeding the plant with anything but the Dr. Earth. Let me ask you if you are also taking care of your microbes that are actually feeding your plants, by using clean water? Chlorine in tap water will eventually stop the organic feeding cycle without you regularly adding to the microbes.
Then you are also pH adjusting your water. Why? It is not necessary in this type of grow. The only reason we pH adjust is when using synthetic nutes that are locked up tight in the bottle until they get into a medium where the pH is within the 6.2-6.8 range. If you are not using synthetic nutes, there is no reason to pH adjust your water... you are just killing microbes by adding the acid to your water.
I would suggest two things... clean RO water from now on... no pH adjusting. Also look into a microbial inoculation product, such as voodoo juice, URB or realgrower's recharge, to get the microbe population up to where it needs to be. It is my belief that these things will get you sorted without changing anything else. If not, I see a lightening of color near the top that will continue to get worse and the dead spots at the tips of your leaves don't look like nute burn, they look like the start of a potassium deficiency, that again is only going to get worse. Dr. Earth is good stuff, but without the microbes thriving, the plants won't be able to get to it.
Yes I’m not feeding anything but Dr Earth, and I wasn’t aware that you only did that with bottled nutes . I’ll note that thanks, and I’ll look into some micro product but could I keep tap or maybe use a different kind of water because the only way to get ro water would be to use a filtration system right? And what would be the easiest way to correct that potassium deficiency?
 
Nice stuff, ocean forest is what I'm using but with MC and a calcium solution. I used one with calmag and it almost fried my stuff. I think it's ok for the not needing extra magnesium in the ocean forest, and every other feeding for cal. You could try water feeding from the bottom and try letting the plant absorb the extra nutrients on top.. I dont know how that top dressing works and Emilya definitely knows more about it, I would use her
Thanks for the info and about the bottom feeding how often do I do that
 
Yes I’m not feeding anything but Dr Earth, and I wasn’t aware that you only did that with bottled nutes . I’ll note that thanks, and I’ll look into some micro product but could I keep tap or maybe use a different kind of water because the only way to get ro water would be to use a filtration system right? And what would be the easiest way to correct that potassium deficiency?
you don't actually have a deficiency of potassium, you have a lack of workers able to carry that raw potassium to the plants. Adding more potassium is not going to fix things unless it is in another form that is readily available to the plants. It appears that your microbial population is down and actually this exact same problem has shown up here several times before... people don't realize that they have to keep the microbes happy in order for Dr. Earth to work.

You can get ro water or you can treat your tap water effectively to get rid of the chlorine product. All you have to do is to put one vitamin C tablet in a bathtub sized container of water (I use a 55 gal barrel in my grow room) and that will drop all of the chlorine out of the solution into a grit at the bottom of the bathtub. Setting water out for a day does not rid the water of chloramine, the new product that most water companies use these days, because it DOES NOT EVAPORATE. And yes, check into the microbe inoculate products... you can never have too many good microbes. If you are supplying more active and fresh microbes to the grow every week or 10 days, you could even get away with using untreated tap water.
 
you don't actually have a deficiency of potassium, you have a lack of workers able to carry that raw potassium to the plants. Adding more potassium is not going to fix things unless it is in another form that is readily available to the plants. It appears that your microbial population is down and actually this exact same problem has shown up here several times before... people don't realize that they have to keep the microbes happy in order for Dr. Earth to work.

You can get ro water or you can treat your tap water effectively to get rid of the chlorine product. All you have to do is to put one vitamin C tablet in a bathtub sized container of water (I use a 55 gal barrel in my grow room) and that will drop all of the chlorine out of the solution into a grit at the bottom of the bathtub. Setting water out for a day does not rid the water of chloramine, the new product that most water companies use these days, because it DOES NOT EVAPORATE. And yes, check into the microbe inoculate products... you can never have too many good microbes. If you are supplying more active and fresh microbes to the grow every week or 10 days, you could even get away with using untreated tap water.
Okay so I basically need some recharge and using it every week will mean I can use regular tap and I’ll be set? And it will take a week for that recharge to get here anything I could do to put potassium in so the plant can get it immediately until the recharge comes?
 
you don't actually have a deficiency of potassium, you have a lack of workers able to carry that raw potassium to the plants. Adding more potassium is not going to fix things unless it is in another form that is readily available to the plants. It appears that your microbial population is down and actually this exact same problem has shown up here several times before... people don't realize that they have to keep the microbes happy in order for Dr. Earth to work.

You can get ro water or you can treat your tap water effectively to get rid of the chlorine product. All you have to do is to put one vitamin C tablet in a bathtub sized container of water (I use a 55 gal barrel in my grow room) and that will drop all of the chlorine out of the solution into a grit at the bottom of the bathtub. Setting water out for a day does not rid the water of chloramine, the new product that most water companies use these days, because it DOES NOT EVAPORATE. And yes, check into the microbe inoculate products... you can never have too many good microbes. If you are supplying more active and fresh microbes to the grow every week or 10 days, you could even get away with using untreated tap water.
I was looking at the N ratio & the Dark Green Leaves. Is the N kind of high for flower ?
 
There are lots of sources of potassium out there... boiled banana peels for instance... Terpinator... the list is long. Buds makes a good point... did you give the Dr. Earth bloom mi
So boiler banana peels can be readily available? And yes I used Dr Earth Flower Girl Bud and Bloom
 
I have 5 gallon fabric pots, I keep them up on a rack laid over drip pans. This keeps the bottoms from getting soggy and let's air under it. I will take them off the racks and sit them in a empty pan and pour two solo cups of MC feed right in the pan and let them soak it up. Takes maybe 30 seconds, sometimes they soak up the first cup before I can fill it again and pour that. Every day. I put it back on the rack and do the next one..etc. I keep an eye on my RH, if it dips I water a solo on top. I let it dry out if it gets saturated on top which is 3 days and it needs it. Once a week I'll use the MC on top, slower so it soaks in and doesn't run off the edges.
20210220_122237.jpg

Gelato left Bruce Banner right autos with just a little LST and slight defoliation here and there. They're older right now and maybe 3 weeks to finish. The Gelato got burned when I put some epsom salt, a pinch on the soil and watered it in, but it pulled through.
 
I should mention that schedule is for mature plants. I had mine out of solo cups and in those bags before they were 20 days old. I used Emilyas watering schedule and before they were 30 days old roots were breaking out of the bottom outside edges and underneath. Once that happened I started feeding and watering on the bottom and doing that lift to let me know when the bags were light and give it extra on top slowly for a bit of runoff. I went slow at first with the MC but I'm upping the dose for these last few weeks to 6 grams per gal.
 
I have 5 gallon fabric pots, I keep them up on a rack laid over drip pans. This keeps the bottoms from getting soggy and let's air under it. I will take them off the racks and sit them in a empty pan and pour two solo cups of MC feed right in the pan and let them soak it up. Takes maybe 30 seconds, sometimes they soak up the first cup before I can fill it again and pour that. Every day. I put it back on the rack and do the next one..etc. I keep an eye on my RH, if it dips I water a solo on top. I let it dry out if it gets saturated on top which is 3 days and it needs it. Once a week I'll use the MC on top, slower so it soaks in and doesn't run off the edges.
20210220_122237.jpg

Gelato left Bruce Banner right autos with just a little LST and slight defoliation here and there. They're older right now and maybe 3 weeks to finish. The Gelato got burned when I put some epsom salt, a pinch on the soil and watered it in, but it pulled through.
Thanks for the info n those plants look nicee and MC ? Is that mega crop or am I off sorry I’m relatively new to this.
 
I have 5 gallon fabric pots, I keep them up on a rack laid over drip pans. This keeps the bottoms from getting soggy and let's air under it. I will take them off the racks and sit them in a empty pan and pour two solo cups of MC feed right in the pan and let them soak it up. Takes maybe 30 seconds, sometimes they soak up the first cup before I can fill it again and pour that. Every day. I put it back on the rack and do the next one..etc. I keep an eye on my RH, if it dips I water a solo on top. I let it dry out if it gets saturated on top which is 3 days and it needs it. Once a week I'll use the MC on top, slower so it soaks in and doesn't run off the edges.
20210220_122237.jpg

Gelato left Bruce Banner right autos with just a little LST and slight defoliation here and there. They're older right now and maybe 3 weeks to finish. The Gelato got burned when I put some epsom salt, a pinch on the soil and watered it in, but it pulled through.
Your feeding and watering everyday?
 
@Deketx Yes, on mature plants.
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This is after 30 days, roots coming out on this plant
20210111_111208.jpg

At this stage it was 1 solo cup a day, IF, it wasn't damp, a few weeks later it was and is two a day with MC and now I'm here
20210221_100749.jpg

Well a couple weeks ago.
 
I had to post another picture
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This one stunted a bit, and never caught back up to the others, which are over 3 feet tall from the dirt, this ones just a smidge under 2 feet. 600 watts of Mars Hydro 20/4 for 60 days, now on 18/6, FFOF 16 lbs filled to the top of the bag and MC with normal feeding after 30 days, I leave it TF alone, just minor LST to open it up and get some flowers down the side branches.
 
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