Biological insect control instead of oils

seaofgreen18

Well-Known Member
Howdy All ,Like most of you I have insects in my garden that I don't want there.
I have use synthetic pesticides,I've tried the oils,and steeping Neem seed meal for azadractrin ,but nothing has done a better job for me is safer for the environment and pollinators than the beneficial insects and nematodes I purchased and the are sustainable and a more safe and cost effective solution.
I put 100 rove beetles along with some hypsis miles mites and nematodes in my indoor worm bin and living soil bed over 2 years ago and I haven't seen a fungus gnat or thrip since I've done that and I still see the beetles in my bin and before i did that my yellow sticky traps were full of critters. What's your method of insect control? Here's an example of a Kind of outdoor predator we all want around!

The importance of parasitoid wasps​

  • There are many species of parasitoid wasps, but most are so tiny that they are rarely noticed. What they lack in size they make up in sheer numbers and efficiency, and as a group they may be the single most important biological control method gardeners have.
  • Wasps belong to the order Hymenoptera, which includes more parasitoids than any other order of insects, with thousands of parasitic species in over 40 families.
  • Parasitoid wasps are very diverse in appearance, ranging in size from as small as a fleck of pepper up to nearly 3” long, and from uniformly dark in color to brightly colored and patterned. These tiny agents of death may be ectoparasitoids or endoparasitoids, but the good news is, they do not sting people.
 
Rove Beetle (Dalotia coriaria)

Dalotia coriaria is a fast-moving, soil dwelling rove beetle. It is a generalist predator that feeds on a wide range of small insects and mites but is primarily an egg predator.

The Rove Beetle is used in the control of fungus gnats, thrips pupae, moth fly larvae, shore flies, root mealybugs, springtails and other small arthropods.

The supplied adults can fly and find hard-to-reach locations in greenhouses where pests may lurk. The larvae are predaceous and resemble the adults. They thrive in damp conditions and are ideally introduced early during propagation cycles in greenhouses. Can be combined with BioStratiolaelaps to help prevent root aphids

While they are beetles, they do not quite look like beetles. They are light to dark brown in color, with adults being 3-4 mm long. BioAtheta curve their abdomen upwards (like scorpions) and can run or fly when disturbed . Since they can actively fly, they rapidly colonize the release area.

Each adult rove beetle consumes 10-20 prey per day. In greenhouse conditions, adults are non-diapausing and can be used year round especially in propagation conditions.
 
Lacewings (Chrysopecula carnea)

Chrysoperla carnea, also known as the red-lipped green lacewing, is an insect of the Chrysopidae family . The delicate lacewing adults feed on nectar, pollen and honeydew while their larvae are the active predators. The first three larvae instars, are the voracious ones.

The larvae of the BioLacewing primarily target aphids (indiscriminate of species). Secondary targets include whiteflies, mealybugs, thrips, spider mites and other soft bodied pests.

Use egg cards for small or early season infestations and larvae to combat a more severe infestation. The larvae can be cannibalistic and should be applied as early as possible. Lacewings are supplied as larvae, eggs or egg cats, which can be hung on infested plants.
 
Amblyseius andersoni is a predatory mite that feeds on small arthropod prey and pollen. Less than 0.04 in. in length, andersoni mites feed on small arthropod prey and pollen which allows their application before the pest arrival.

Main target pests: Two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychis uriricae) and other mites including European red, broad, cyclamen and russet mites. Additional targets are Western flower thrips.

Often used in tomatoes due to its ability to maneuver between trichomes. They are active across a wide temperature range, allowing for early season introduction into crops yet might enter diapause with cooler temperatures and short day lengths (<10 hr.).
 
Fungus gnats (Sciarids), also called dark-winged fungus gnats, are small, dark, delicate-looking flies that infest soil, potting mixes, container media and sources of organic decomposition. Adult fungus gnats don’t damage plants, however, their larvae can damage roots and stunt plant growth. Significant root damage can cause plant death. Serious fungus gnat damage is more common in greenhouses and nurseries than in open Ares
 
Beneficial SF Nematodes (Steinernema feltiae)

Beneficial Nematodes are tiny roundworms that parasitize various pests living in the soil, leaves and sometimes trees. They can be used as bio-control agents in turf, vegetables, flower gardens, orchards and greenhouses.

Nematodes (SF) target Fungus Gnats, Codling Moth, Western Flower Thrips, Leafminers, Tuta absoluta and some caterpillars.

Nematodes actively search for larvae. After locating pest larvae, nematodes invade through natural body openings and inject bacteria into the insect. Bacteria develop within the insect and it dies of septicaemia after 2-3 days. Nematodes reproduce inside the dead larva. Thousands of new nematodes leave the dead larva and search for further prey.
 
There are many species of Aphids - while some are host specific (monophagous), others feed on many plant species (polyphagus). There are different traits which help identify aphids, they come in many colors and can also vary considerably within the species. Identifying the aphid species or genus via scouting and identification are key to using appropriate control strategies.
 
Aphid Predator (Aphidius colemani)

Aphidius colemani is a parasitic wasp. This polyphagous parasitoid attacks over 40 species of aphids. Ideally to be used preventatively when aphids are first observed in a crop. It may be used in conjunction with aphid predators to target aphid outbreaks in greenhouses, nurseries, interiorscapes and open field crops. Also effective with grass banker plant systems.

Target pests include: melon/cotton aphid (aphis gossypii), green peach aphid (Myzus persicae), tobacco aphid (Myzus nicotianae) and cannabis aphid (Phorodon cannabis).

The adults are small slender wasps with black, brown and yellow coloration, brown legs and long antennae. Aphidius colemani’s size depends on the size of the parasitized aphid, but is usually about 2 mm long.

Aphidius colemani’s activity is optimal between temperatures of 20-30°C. Below 15°C, the adult is inactive. An adult female parasitoid may perform several hundred oviposition attempts during its lifespan, out of which up to 200 eggs will be laid successfully.
 
Some interesting stuff on worms if you keep a bin.
An alarming condition in a worm bin can happen when you overfeed a worm bin - especially with protein-rich grain-based foods.

This drops the pH in both the worm bin and your worms' guts, causing fermentation and the production of gas that gets trapped inside the worms.

a phenomenon called protein poisoning, also referred to as sour crop or "string of pearls."
 
When protein breaks down into its building blocks - amino acids - you can imagine that low-PH levels will follow.
Protein poisoning isn't really about protein; it's about acidity.

Worms can and will get protein poisoning without a protein-rich diet.

All you need to do is feed them fruit and veggie waste without any bedding and/or agricultural lime or calcium to help buffer the pH.
 
Gotta love those beneficial bugs A lady bug hard at work eating mites probably. I checked for the spot in the center of the head it's there 👍if it doesn't have the spot in the center of the head I don't believe it's a lady bug something to think about if buying them!

IMG_20230627_160256.jpg
 
Gotta love those beneficial bugs A lady bug hard at work eating mites probably. I checked for the spot in the center of the head it's there 👍if it doesn't have the spot in the center of the head I don't believe it's a lady bug something to think about if buying them!

IMG_20230627_160256.jpg
See now if I were to spray oil or pesticides I wouldn't have this GREAT & free insect control ✌️
 
Beneficial SF Nematodes (Steinernema feltiae)

Beneficial Nematodes are tiny roundworms that parasitize various pests living in the soil, leaves and sometimes trees. They can be used as bio-control agents in turf, vegetables, flower gardens, orchards and greenhouses.

Nematodes (SF) target Fungus Gnats, Codling Moth, Western Flower Thrips, Leafminers, Tuta absoluta and some caterpillars.

Nematodes actively search for larvae. After locating pest larvae, nematodes invade through natural body openings and inject bacteria into the insect. Bacteria develop within the insect and it dies of septicaemia after 2-3 days. Nematodes reproduce inside the dead larva. Thousands of new nematodes leave the dead larva and search for further prey.

Just so folks know.. I see a lot of people purchasing specific nematodes for their grows. This isn’t necessary if you’ve got healthy compost and/or EWC in your grow. They both will provide nematodes on their own as well as a host of other beneficial life. You can cultivate these beneficials with fresh healthy compost or EWC. It seems a lot of folks don’t realize the main purpose of EWC and fresh compost isn’t so much the nutrient values as it is the beneficial life it brings to the table.

Bagged compost and EWC can easily bring in nematodes and springtails at a minimum.

Those who have custom built their EWC and compost to contain nutrients get the nutrient benefit but if you’re not cultivating your own worms with meals/nutrients the main purpose it’s serving is to introduce that life.

If you’re being overrun even with this stuff, you’re unbalanced somewhere in your grow and need to figure out why the beneficials are being overtaken.
 
Improper ph in the soil and soil tension (moisture)and the wrong foods or just plain ole bad or unfinished compost oh and ESPECIALLY SALTS from chemical fertilizer.
I myself raise my own worms so my castings are TEAMING with MICROBES I feed them Bokashi, alfalfa and neem meals insect frass along with crushed oyster shell of different sizes for grit because worms have a gizzard and for pH stabilizer as well as spent coffee grounds and table scraps plus I send char through to give those beneficial microbes a home. You know a good compost tea If done right will get the same results as a good compost or worm castings without adding any compost or castings for aeration purposes.
Tea is about multiplying the microbes that you have so like you say but if your soil is out of balance it doesn't work so well and the microbes die or just survive. I get my nemotodes from my worm bin I do a 1 one time use and I use rove beetles in my worm bin along with checking it every day and maintaining good stable pH and soil moisture is key to a successful worm bin And not an issue 1 with fungus gnats or other bad critters in the bin But it helps because I keep it healthy, properly maintained and in the basement outside would be a different story
 
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