Bought clone, slowly killing it

I would just loosen it a little bit and pop in a larger pot to allow roots to expand into the new soil. Less stress this way.

I grow in a 50/50 mix of Promix HP and coco. I get good results with this mix. I pH between 5.8 & 5.9 & I feed at about 600 ppm with RO water for first 30 days then I ramp up to 900 ppm. I use my own feeding program I have tweaked over the years but all I feed is GH Flora three part and Calmag. I tried using orca liquid and Roots Excelurator with Sweets Raw but noticed no change. I tried Floralicious + with no difference.
 
A plant of that size needs s larger pot.

A very crude rule of thumb is 1 gallon of pot for every month of anticipated life. I personally go from an 8" pot into a 5 gallon bucket to get them the rest of the way.
 
I have 27 and 35lb cat litter buckets, which do you suppose is best? (Is there a downside to too-large a container, other than being unwieldy as hell?)

Should I try to remove as much of the coir as I can, or just treat it like any other re-potting?

Thanks for all the replies.
 
unbekannt

How much PH adjusting fluid you been Using?

Are you waiting 30 minutes after adjusting the PH to re-check it before adding more PH adjuster.
It takes 30 minutes for the PH adjustment to stabilize, so if your not waiting then you are over adjusting, causeing your issues.

I am just guessing but you do not mention your pH techinque.

I'd also stick with the coca cor based nute lines, as it accounts for the PH issues coca tends to have.

Good Luck!
 
Not familiar with the tabby litter bucket sizes but larger is generally best up to a point. How long do you think your going yo need to finish this plant? Get one gallon capacity per month from when you bought it. Calculate volume by measuring and convert cubic inches to gallons.

Personally I would be gentle with the rootball. Less stress the better. If you remove too much coco the remaining roots will be clumped and not surrounded by medium and thus subject to root rot.

Some things to consider.

When watering you will need to have drainage holes in bottom to prevent any standing water. One might try to avoid this by underwatering with no "runoff", however this results in salt buildups in your medium.

You will want some means of collecting this drainage. Saucers work but are a pain. Standing water isn't good. I like the way buckets nest inside eachother. Drill a bunch of 3/8" drainage holes in bottom and pop into the second bucket to gather water. You can add a gromet and barbed fitting to run to a floor drain if one is handy.
 
Holy cra... I haven't been waiting long enough after using pH adjusting fluid. I'm going to try that before anything else crazy, thanks. I'm still going to re-pot into a larger container as suggested. Thanks for the reminder about drainage, but at least that's one thing I have covered.

I aim for about 20% runoff at the plain waterings, and I let it sit in its own puddle for about 20 minutes at the feedings before draining. Does that sound okay?

I have both coco-specific and soil nutes now, but was sticking with the soil ones because that's what the majority of the roots are in. (I'm going to use soil for this new re-potting, but not touch or break up much of the in-between coir.)

When you ask how long until I "finish" the plant, do you mean until I switch to flower? I was mostly waiting until it looks healthy enough, really. (The lower half of the plant is really showing that pest damage now.)
 
Hey, I just compared a picture I took the day I brought it home 24 days ago to one I took today. I can't be doing THAT badly...

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Crud, okay. I removed several leaves with small fuzzy white patches. It sure does look like mold to me, but I actually thought my humidity was too low. My meter said 25% a couple weeks ago, but since the heat's been on for winter it's said 10%.

I need to get a magnifying glass. Can you tell what this is from my crappy picture?

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PM thrives when you have really dry to really moist humidity swings. Sometimes humid warm air cools when lights are off causing RH to rise. Vent when lights are off. Have adequate air circulation.
 
That's what I thought! I just didn't think it could happen at such a low RH.. I actually just tied a bunch of stems down/aside yesterday so that the plant is spread apart pretty well. That led to the discovery of these leaves today, and hopefully will prevent any more. I'll go Google up powdery mildew. Thanks.

edit: I do have a pretty strong 6" fan venting in, but the 4" venting out is something I hope to upgrade in the next few weeks.
 
You are considering rH incorrectly. When leaves touch, they experience sweating directly on the leaf. Your rH monitor wont show any change and the room can be low and still get mold. SNS mold spray is your best best to knock it out.

:thumb:
 
Working on repotting, treating for fungus gnats and powdery mildew. In the meantime, can someone tell me what this looks like?

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Okay, since then I have repotted into a 7gal-ish bucket, put down diatomaceous earth for the fungus gnats, and sprayed a baking soda mixture for the PM. That was yesterday.

Here are some pictures from today:

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Not thriving, not dying.. It was hard to get good pictures, but you can see what's happening to those new leaves.
 
I was going to test the runoff pH today, but the new dirt is still making all the water dark brown and impossible to use the liquid reagent. Haven't seen a single bug since putting down the powder.

I'm anxious about what these leaves are doing, I still haven't figured it out.

Today's sick leaves:

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Since doing all of your adjustments I would defoil all the sickly leaves, this will do a few things give you more air movement, more light (Which some of the wilted leaves down below look like they maybe suffering from). Then it will give you an idea if your corrections have made a difference. Once you make corrections the old damaged leaves will continue to look that way, but the new growth if the proper corrections were made will look good. Also to me it looks like you should swap to 12/12 soon judging by plant size and room size, you can expect that plant to at least double in size from where it is now. Do you have plans to tie it down in the stretch during the flower stage? if not come up with a plan, I made this mistake on my first grow and have had to take quite a few extreme measures to get my ladies under control. Looks like you are using your tent for now which works well but more tie down points will help more.
image5965.jpg

this is what im going to use in my tent, but my nutrient rez is a pain to clean without it in there so im going to cut the strings out and use the eye bolts as tie down points.
most of the stuff looks like deficiency from ph being off. Good luck :)
 
I've been pruning away the sicker and dead leaves every few days, which is one of the reasons I take pictures as I go. I AM worried about the size/stretch during flower, but I don't want to go into flower while I have pest and mold problems, you know?

The plant's actually tied down to the bucket and the sides of the tent (since it's too heavy for me to lift at this stage anyway). It's been tricky to do it well because it was already pretty big and set in its ways when I got it.

You're right, I should start planning to make a net. That would make it easier than the individual tie-downs I've been doing. Thanks.

You can kind of see the neon yarn in this picture, though there's a lot more than there appears to be:



edit: Actually I guess that's what's been worrying me, is that I HAVE been removing the dying leaves but new ones continue to appear. I guess I only put down the anti-gnat 3 days ago..
 
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