Can you help me spot the issue?

[TryingToDo]

Hello guys,
I'm growing autoflowers
Mediumis Coco/perlit
I'm feeding with T.A. Trio 1700ec currently.
Ph is around 6.2 using drop pH test
Just can't figure out what deficiency is it.

 

[SmokingWings]

Mediumis Coco/perlit
I'm feeding with T.A. Trio 1700ec currently.
Ph is around 6.2 using drop pH test

Don't know what a "T.A. Trio" is.

The issue could be a Potassium problem. When plants go into flowering the Phosphorous and Potassium macro nutrients will become more important for flower development and growth and the overall health of the plant. Since it looks like the pH of the water is too high it is very possible that the plant cannot take and make use of any of the Potassium available in the medium and the fertilizers.

Usually when a coco & perlite mix is used as a growing medium it is considered a hydroponic growing method. With hydroponic methods the recommendation is use a water with a 5.7 or 5.8 pH. The pH of 6.2 is better for a natural soil medium. That could be a big part of the problem.

Also do not forget the Calcium and Magnesium. Sometimes the fertilizers will have enough mixed in. If not then a separate Cal-Mag product will be needed. Very common to come across problems with plants that are taken care of by including Cal-Mag in the feeding schedules.

Have you checked on similar problems being mentioned in the threads found in the Hydroponic forums on this message board.

 

[nivek]

As @SmokingWings mentioned, and the most noticeable comment in your post,, the pH

I am a hempy grower, and I like my ph in the 5.5 to 5.7 range. Seems to work best

Karma sent friend

 

[Buds Buddy]

pH was first thing I thought of too. Could be throwing everything out of wack. Are you adding any Cal-Mag ? You need Cal-Mag with a Coco Grow.

 

[TryingToDo]

pH was first thing I thought of too. Could be throwing everything out of wack. Are you adding any Cal-Mag ? You need Cal-Mag with a Coco Grow.

As @SmokingWings mentioned, and the most noticeable comment in your post,, the pH

I am a hempy grower, and I like my ph in the 5.5 to 5.7 range. Seems to work best

Karma sent friend

Don't know what a "T.A. Trio" is.

The issue could be a Potassium problem. When plants go into flowering the Phosphorous and Potassium macro nutrients will become more important for flower development and growth and the overall health of the plant. Since it looks like the pH of the water is too high it is very possible that the plant cannot take and make use of any of the Potassium available in the medium and the fertilizers.

Usually when a coco & perlite mix is used as a growing medium it is considered a hydroponic growing method. With hydroponic methods the recommendation is use a water with a 5.7 or 5.8 pH. The pH of 6.2 is better for a natural soil medium. That could be a big part of the problem.

Also do not forget the Calcium and Magnesium. Sometimes the fertilizers will have enough mixed in. If not then a separate Cal-Mag product will be needed. Very common to come across problems with plants that are taken care of by including Cal-Mag in the feeding schedules.

Have you checked on similar problems being mentioned in the threads found in the Hydroponic forums on this message board.

After replies I dropped pH to 5.8-5.9
We'll see outcomes soon but there's something in my mind that niggles at me.
At the beginning I was using bottled water but it was costy then I turned to tap water which has 520EC. I use General Hydroponics Tripart With SoftWater Micro suppliement. I also use General Hydroponics Cal-Mag that I add 5ml/gal.
May I also be adding too much cal which can block potassium as I read online?

 

[SmokingWings]

Ph is around 6.2

This just occurred to me this morning and I checked it out to be sure it might help in this situation.

Floating around the internet there are several charts or diagrams that show what nutrients are available at any particular pH of the water and they show the differences between hydro and a natural soil grow. If in a hydro type of grow with the water at 6.2 pH at the time it is applied there is little if any Potassium (K) that will become available to the plant.

Your most recent msg just arrived....

After replies I dropped pH to 5.8-5.9
.....I use General Hydroponics Tripart With SoftWater Micro suppliement. I also use General Hydroponics Cal-Mag that I add 5ml/gal.

The change in the pH should help. It might not make the situation with the yellowing on the leaves go away but it could be enough to slow down, maybe stop, that issue and keep new areas from showing up before flowering is finished. That can be considered a win.

I doubt that the dose of Cal-Mag that your product calls for is enough to cause a problem.

Did not have time to finish reading up on what the 'SoftWater Micro suppliement' that you mentioned does and how to use it. Kind of depends on whether your water is hard or soft.

 

[TryingToDo]

This just occurred to me this morning and I checked it out to be sure it might help in this situation.

Floating around the internet there are several charts or diagrams that show what nutrients are available at any particular pH of the water and they show the differences between hydro and a natural soil grow. If in a hydro type of grow with the water at 6.2 pH at the time it is applied there is little if any Potassium (K) that will become available to the plant.

Your most recent msg just arrived....

The change in the pH should help. It might not make the situation with the yellowing on the leaves go away but it could be enough to slow down, maybe stop, that issue and keep new areas from showing up before flowering is finished. That can be considered a win.

I doubt that the dose of Cal-Mag that your product calls for is enough to cause a problem.

Did not have time to finish reading up on what the 'SoftWater Micro suppliement' that you mentioned does and how to use it. Kind of depends on whether your water is hard or soft.

Thank you so much for your kindly help. I will share the results in a few days with a mention with you. thanks

 

[Bill284]

Hello guys,
I'm growing autoflowers
Mediumis Coco/perlit
I'm feeding with T.A. Trio 1700ec currently.
Ph is around 6.2 using drop pH test
Just can't figure out what deficiency is it.

Put calmag in your plain water first.
Wait 15 minutes put in nutrients according to the schedule.
Drop the ph to 5.8 exactly.
Feed every day, possibly 2x a day to runoff every time.
Never let coco dry at all .
And no plain water ever.
Do you follow these procedures.
This is what's required to grow in coco.
Which steps have you missed?




Stay safe
Bill284

 

[TryingToDo]

Put calmag in your plain water first.
Wait 15 minutes put in nutrients according to the schedule.
Drop the ph to 5.8 exactly.
Feed every day, possibly 2x a day to runoff every time.
Never let coco dry at all .
And no plain water ever.
Do you follow these procedures.
This is what's required to grow in coco.
Which steps have you missed?




Stay safe
Bill284

Missing steps ;
I put my calmag first but never wait for 15 mins.
pH was way too much but fixed it .

 

[Bill284]

Missing steps ;
I put my calmag first but never wait for 15 mins.
pH was way too much but fixed it .

You have to give it time.
Cm helps with nutrient uptake.
Needs time to bond first.
If you don't have a good living root zone your ph becomes more critical.
5.8 religiously.
You water to runoff ever time.
You get root zone build up if you don't.
Can cause deficiencies.




Stay safe
Bill284

 

[Emilya Green]

Put calmag in your plain water first.
Wait 15 minutes put in nutrients according to the schedule.
Drop the ph to 5.8 exactly.
Feed every day, possibly 2x a day to runoff every time.
Never let coco dry at all .
And no plain water ever.
Do you follow these procedures.
This is what's required to grow in coco.
Which steps have you missed?




Stay safe
Bill284

The conversion to magnesium oxide is almost instantaneous upon contact with the water. There is no need to wait 15 minutes.

 

[Bill284]

The conversion to magnesium oxide is almost instantaneous upon contact with the water. There is no need to wait 15 minutes.

You run much coco?




Stay safe
Bill284

 

[Emilya Green]

You run much coco?




Stay safe
Bill284

sorry, I have never run coco and never will. I have mixed a lot of calmag into water though.

 

[SmokingWings]

The conversion to magnesium oxide is almost instantaneous upon contact with the water. There is no need to wait 15 minutes.

I thought the purpose of waiting was to allow the pH to settle because of the addition of the Calcium.

 

[Emilya Green]

I thought the purpose of waiting was to allow the pH to settle because of the addition of the Calcium.

why settle at this intermediate stage? Next you add the nutes and finally at the end there is the need to adjust the pH.

 

[SmokingWings]

I thought the purpose of waiting was to allow the pH to settle because of the addition of the Calcium.

Settling as in it seems that the pH of the water will continue to change for several minutes or more as the Calcium gets wet and dissolves. The calcium is turning into Calcium Carbonate, Calcium Bicarbonate, Hydrogen gases,acids, Calcium Hydroxide and more after it has been added to water.

I am under the impression that time is needed to allow this to happen. Then any other nutrients are added and those might also change the pH. Once everything that is happening has had a chance to settle down the pH can be checked.

Then to complicate it even more the temperature of the water at the start has an effect on how fast the Calcium will mix or dissolve into the water. Add in that the reaction of the calcium with the water in itself will change the temperature.

 

[Emilya Green]

Settling as in it seems that the pH of the water will continue to change for several minutes or more as the Calcium gets wet and dissolves. The calcium is turning into Calcium Carbonate, Calcium Bicarbonate, Hydrogen gases,acids, Calcium Hydroxide and more after it has been added to water.

I am under the impression that time is needed to allow this to happen. Then any other nutrients are added and those might also change the pH. Once everything that is happening has had a chance to settle down the pH can be checked.

Then to complicate it even more the temperature of the water at the start has an effect on how fast the Calcium will mix or dissolve into the water. Add in that the reaction of the calcium with the water in itself will change the temperature.

All true, and these processes happen well after this too, even after being added to the soil when you water. This however does not make it necessary to add the calcium before the nutes or is there any need to wait for pH stabilization to happen, because you adjust the pH at the end when you are done mixing things in. There is no stabilization of the pH. This is why you adjust it at the very end, knowing that it's value is a constantly moving target. In the bucket, mixing with co2 in the air at the top surface and with all the nutes reacting against each other in the mix, the pH will continue to drift, and it will continue to drift once it hits the soil and begins to react to the buffers in there.

Magnesium however, is special. It is the most mutable metal that we know of, and it will react with practically anything. If you add magnesium to a bucket full of nutes, you will end up with multitudes of different forms of magnesium caused by the reactions of this metal against every other compound in the mix. There is only one form of magnesium that is most available to the plant, and many of the forms that can result, the plant can't use. Magnesium oxide is what we want, and it is formed when magnesium mixes with water. Once that instantaneous reaction is complete, it is then safe to add the other nutes without fear that they will react with the magnesium, because magnesium oxide is stable.

 

[Buds Buddy]

I guess my mix is stable then. Takes me a good 12 hours most the time, because I go do other stuff & just let each thing sit a while. I'll add Si & let it sit a few hours. Add "N" & come back later. Add the MC & let sit a couple hours before I pH.
Hadn't ever given any thought to stabilization, until this conversation. It was just convenient for me.

 

[Bill284]

I guess my mix is stable then. Takes me a good 12 hours most the time, because I go do other stuff & just let each thing sit a while. I'll add Si & let it sit a few hours. Add "N" & come back later. Add the MC & let sit a couple hours before I pH.
Hadn't ever given any thought to stabilization, until this conversation. It was just convenient for me.

Works well.
Haven't seen any complaints from your ladies.




Stay safe
Bill284

 

[Buds Buddy]

Works well.
Have seen any complaints from your ladies.




Stay safe
Bill284

I get a "K" def. in mid to late flower. Doubt that mixing nutes that way has anything to do with that. I just got a liter of Terpinator 0-0-4 to solve that issue.