First Indoor Grow DWC/LED

motionman said:
Awesome!
and theirs me questioning my budget ha ha. I really like the lights they must be affective with what your producing!
How far away do you think you are from full flowers.
Click to expand...

So far with the set up things are realy moving.Once the roots hit the res she just took off.I am not sure how long before full flower I did test a couple of their 90 watt hh units and it seems to take a bit longer to flower.Temps have been getting down to about 50 this may slow things down but I think in about a month until full flower.In a couple of weeks I will start adding the cha-ching and if all goes well it should really kick in..........This is really a budjet grow as well economy has been realy bad.I started out small and just planed ahead and a little luck my mini garden came togeather.:peace:
 
A little update.In previouse post I added 1/4 tsp superthrive and tsp cal mag to my mix@550 ppm.Seemed to be just a little much.I dilluted with water to about 475 ppm.All is good thow just a few skinny leaves with a little sign of to much.Woops. lol.:peace:
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I know its only been a few days lol,but any way what the hey.So far there has been popcorn buds popping up every where.This is a real stretchy strain I could of tlc a little better but things are still going smooth.Going to cross my fingers and hopefully she puts out some big popcorn.Only the light will tell.
 
Have a little more detail about the led I am using.So far seems to be doing ok.Its the hydroponics hut 250 watt switchable led.What I think is neet about it is I can switch grow and bloom lights on and off to help save on electricity.Just blue for seedlings and red to induce flower ect.So far not sure if any of this makes any difference but I like the flexability.On this light I did dismantle and remover the glass lense.More light gets out and leds that run cooler are much more reliable and consistant.
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Where one light is good I think two would be better?
 
If any one out there has any root care and health tips or products I more than welcome any advice they have to share.Dont be shy.I am realy needing a product that adds positive microbes to ward off the bad ones that will work with my organic.Any pics of roots before and after would be grate and would like to see and share information.This would realy help out a lot of people battle the slime monsters:blunt:
 
I thought that I would share this for any one not wanting to purchase expensive nute program that focus there sails on the popularity of mj cultivation.As an outdoor grower it is not realistic to pay these outragious prices on multi part nutes it is realy a scam targeted at the younger generation.All these products are darived from the same thing.A quality product will have the complete line of micro and macro all in one or 2 parts not the dallar sign.But any way this is a good product and you should have no deficiencys.Works with soil and hydro disolves almost completly.

MAXSEA
Recomended max NPK for MJ is 20-20-20 This product excells beond most high dallar nutes.I just would feel bad if I kept this to my self.This I beleive is what they use in the hydro garden in disnesy land.
All Purpose Seaweed Fertilizers
With such low N-P-K numbers, seaweed fertilizers are often used as supplements, instead of as the main fertilizer. All purpose fertilizers simply take a seaweed base, like kelp meal, and process it to include an N-P-K ratio with higher numbers. An all purpose, seaweed fertilizer such as Maxsea has one basic formula for the vegetative stage (16-16-16) and one for the flowering stage (3-20-20).
Fertilizers with higher N-P-K numbers are more capable of burning your plants. Carefully read and follow the directions. If you are feeding your plants each time you water, use only half strength nutrient solution. The safest way is to always measure the nutrient solution strength with a TDS meter or EC meter before using it on your plants.

One of the biggest benefits of using Maxsea is that it is very close to the ideal nutrient solution pH, and it's pH tends to drift upwards very little when sitting in a nutrient reservoir over time. Controlling the pH of the nutrient solution is extremely important to the success of a hydroponic garden, and probably causes the greatest number of problems for the indoor gardener as far as plant nutrition is concerned.

For anyone beginning a hydroponic garden on a tight budget, using Maxsea is one way to avoid having to purchase an expensive pH meter (at first) while still being able to achieve very good results.

If you decide to use Maxsea, be sure to add 1 teaspoon of Epsom salt to every gallon of nutrient solution. This provides your plants with magnesium, which is the only micro-nutrient lacking in the Maxsea fertilizers. This will give you a very complete and very affordable feeding strategy that is also very easy to maintain.For flower add a little of the grow and mix with bloom for nitrogen loving plants. One of the only places you will be able to find Maxsea fertilizer is Charley's Greenhouse and Garden.
PS.....Just fallow the direction and plants responce and just grow it.:eyebrowsmile:
 
hi theyre ,just a question about removing glass( i own a 140w HH led )
was it easy to do ?
anything i would need to be carefull about when doing it

good luck with your grow
 
To get rid of that slime buy a bottle of sensizym or Hygrozym and it is much better to use and easier on the plant than peroxide. Stuff is expensive but it can seriously save a crop. I use it in all my DWC and also a waterfarm. Also, DWC roots can become a breeding ground for fungus gnat maggots which came as a shock to me...I would get rid of most of that stuff you are using and just use nutes, enzyme product like sensizym and AZAMAX to control bugs mixxed @ second highest concentration and you will have healthy roots that will gulp up nutes like no tomorrow. This has been my experience with DWC and slimey and or brown roots and or smelly water.
 
smokinweedgi said:
hi theyre ,just a question about removing glass( i own a 140w HH led )
was it easy to do ?
anything i would need to be carefull about when doing it

good luck with your grow
Click to expand...

Yes it is pretty simple once you open the unit up.After you get the case off by removing the side screws and have access to the wiring from the heat sink to the on off switches there should be 2 one way plugs that you can unplug to give you a little more working room.The led heat sink is just set in there with double sided tape.VEARY GENTLY pull on the corners of the heatsink and work around prying a little at a time.I used a little alan to pry around the heat sink until it started to lift.After pulling the heat sink I had acess to the front of the unit.The glass lens is just glued in with sealacone.I took a razer nife and cut along the edge of the lense and where the glue meets.After you open up the unit its pretty simple.I was discouraged at first but pretty simple.
 
Growing247 said:
To get rid of that slime buy a bottle of sensizym or Hygrozym and it is much better to use and easier on the plant than peroxide. Stuff is expensive but it can seriously save a crop. I use it in all my DWC and also a waterfarm. Also, DWC roots can become a breeding ground for fungus gnat maggots which came as a shock to me...I would get rid of most of that stuff you are using and just use nutes, enzyme product like sensizym and AZAMAX to control bugs mixxed @ second highest concentration and you will have healthy roots that will gulp up nutes like no tomorrow. This has been my experience with DWC and slimey and or brown roots and or smelly water.
Click to expand...

Hey thanks growing247 yes this darn slime is starting to spread and I am not a big fan of peroxide.Would you recomend using the sensizym,hygrozym with my nutes in the res or is it something I use inbetween res change..Thanks for the info plus reps this slime of bad organisms has been a real problem for me.:thumb:
 
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Heres a little up date.Not much going on as far as growth.....Well except she is starting to turn into a grape vine lol.She would be about 5 and a half ft of stretch did some seriouse tie down.But any way I did res change and swiched nutes to chaching @ recomended FF feading schedule.Ph is 5.8-6.0 My ppm was 500 going in but quickly droped to 350.(She must have liked that stuff lol).She is still scared from overfeeding but all is good.I will leave her at 350ppm till I top the res.She is slow going I had to read back and see what her flower time is and its 70days so there is quite a bit of time left.:peace:
Also temps have been realy cold and flushing has been slowing her down a bit.I have been using clearex or h2o2 and this is not recomended as this nute is part organic.H2O2 kills all the bad organisms but also the good ones I really need to get some stuff to work with my organics like hydrozime or sensizime.
 

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