Green leaves

[Sueet]

The problem with trimming leaves that are damaged in that way is that if it is a deficiency of some sort, the plant will then just have to move to the next leaf up. That said, it doesn't hurt your plant to prune it otherwise.
I wish I could look at your leaves and tell you what is happening, but I know nothing about autos and even less about biobizz. If you leave more info here maybe someone else can help you out. (like pics of the whole plant and whether the spots are on new or old growth, etc)

 

[Dankjuu]

Anybody knows what it could be? The strain is gorilla glue from Barneys farm. She is 33 days old and been giving her nutes once a week in the last 14 days, using about 3 L every watering. Its like small patches or spots is showing on her old growth. My TEMP is about 25-27 degrees celsius and HUM is about 40%.

 

[Emeraldo]

I don't know what that is. It isn't affecting your entire plant, is it? I wouldn't trim the affected parts, let them continue to provide photosynthesis to the extent they can.

Have a look here: Plant Doctor - Diagnose Your Plants! | Grow Weed Easy

You might have an issue with soil pH. Have you checked soil pH?

 

[Dankjuu]

I don't know what that is. It isn't affecting your entire plant, is it? I wouldn't trim the affected parts, let them continue to provide photosynthesis to the extent they can.

Have a look here: Plant Doctor - Diagnose Your Plants! | Grow Weed Easy

You might have an issue with soil pH. Have you checked soil pH?

No its only a few leaves here and there. Haven't checked the soil pH, will check the runoff when watering tomorrow. Will go check it out to see if I can find something, there is just alot of different diagnoses so I'm struggling a bit with finding the specific one.

 

[SmokingWings]

Haven't checked the soil pH, will check the runoff when watering tomorrow.

Checking the runoff is a great way to find out the pH of the water that runs out the bottom of the container but will not tell us the pH of the soil itself.

If the pH of the water and any nutrients is OK after mixing and at the time of watering the plant then you should be OK as far as pH is concerned.

It is a whole different story when growing in a water only hydroponic style or any of the basically inert hydroponic grow materials like Perlite, Coco Coir or Rockwool. Those growers need to know the pH of the water coming out of the mix.

But in a soil grow, knowing the pH of the water & nutrient mix going in is important and what comes from the bottom of the pot does not mean much, if anything.

 

[Dankjuu]

Checking the runoff is a great way to find out the pH of the water that runs out the bottom of the container but will not tell us the pH of the soil itself.

If the pH of the water and any nutrients is OK after mixing and at the time of watering the plant then you should be OK as far as pH is concerned.

It is a whole different story when growing in a water only hydroponic style or any of the basically inert hydroponic grow materials like Perlite, Coco Coir or Rockwool. Those growers need to know the pH of the water coming out of the mix.

But in a soil grow, knowing the pH of the water & nutrient mix going in is important and what comes from the bottom of the pot does not mean much, if anything.

Ahh I see thanks for clearing that for me unfortunately I haven't got a pH meter for soil, but as far as I know I should be 6,5-6,2 and the water I've been using is 6,5. Got home today and saw that it has gotten worse, with leaves wilting and the spots spreading. (The little piece of leaf missing is my fault) Sprayed her with neem oil and hope it helps a bit, really worried that she's gonna die off and thanks for the replies know that I ask a lot of questions but I just can't seem to find a specific grow journal to follow. Should I try to flush the pot?

 

[Emeraldo]

Neem helps with pests. If what you have is a deficiency, then neem is not the solution.

Could you be overwatering?

If not overwatering, maybe it's time to get your hands on a soil pH meter.

 

[Dankjuu]

Neem helps with pests. If what you have is a deficiency, then neem is not the solution.

Could you be overwatering?

If not overwatering, maybe it's time to get your hands on a soil pH meter.

Actually think I have one with multiple functions, but it wasn't very functional broke pretty quick got any recommendations?

 

[FelipeBlu]

Checking the runoff is a great way to find out the pH of the water that runs out the bottom of the container but will not tell us the pH of the soil itself.

If the pH of the water and any nutrients is OK after mixing and at the time of watering the plant then you should be OK as far as pH is concerned.

Actually, this isn’t precisely correct. There is a method called pour-thru that enables a grower to assess the pH of the substrate. Basically, the plant is watered/fertigated as normal, allowed to drain for an hour, and then a small amount of distilled water is poured over the surface - only enough to produce 50ml of leachate. The pH of this is then measured with a quality pH pen like Apera or Blue Lab. Don’t bother with those multi-function things - they are not accurate enough.

And over a period of time, the pH of the substrate can change - depending on the alkalinity of your water and the type of nitrogen in your fertilizer. Lots of bicarbonates in your water and/or nitrate nitrogen - and the pH will rise - sometimes out of acceptable range.

It is a whole different story when growing in a water only hydroponic style or any of the basically inert hydroponic grow materials like Perlite, Coco Coir or Rockwool. Those growers need to know the pH of the water coming out of the mix.

And as a hempy grower (in 100% perlite), I only pay attention to the pH of the solution going in and don’t bother measuring runoff.

 

[Dankjuu]

I know the leaves can turn up or down but sideways? Could it be root rot?

 

[SmokingWings]

Actually, this isn’t precisely correct. There is a method called pour-thru that enables a grower to assess the pH of the substrate. Basically, the plant is watered/fertigated as normal, allowed to drain for an hour, and then a small amount of distilled water is poured over the surface - only enough to produce 50ml of leachate. The pH of this is then measured with a quality pH pen like Apera or Blue Lab. Don’t bother with those multi-function things - they are not accurate enough.

And over a period of time, the pH of the substrate can change - depending on the alkalinity of your water and the type of nitrogen in your fertilizer. Lots of bicarbonates in your water and/or nitrate nitrogen - and the pH will rise - sometimes out of acceptable range.


And as a hempy grower (in 100% perlite), I only pay attention to the pH of the solution going in and don’t bother measuring runoff.

Got it.

I was hoping to give @Dankjuu enough to start looking into more options. And a good point about a quality of pH pen rather than the inexpensive multi-tool or single probe pens.

And, it looks like whatever is happening to the plant is getting worse by the day.

 

[Emilya Green]

it sounds like you still dont have ph figured out. The ph of your soil is usually set high at the factory so that it reverts back to a base pH near 6.8 when it dries. You need to check the ph of your fluids, immediately before applying them to the plant. If you are adding nutes, add them to the water, and THEN adjust your pH, and adjust it to 6.3 pH, right near the bottom of the soil pH range. This will allow your nutes/water to set the pH at the low end and then as the soil begins to dry out it will drift up toward the high end, where the soil is set to. This moves you through the entire usable pH range, picking up each nutrient as it becomes the most mobile in the soil/water mix. It also allows your nutrients to be in the proper range for the longest period of time, as opposed to coming in at 6.5 pH and only having the upper part of the range to drift into, missing all of the lower range.

Most soil is set correctly and there is nothing needing to be done to adjust its pH. Some members even add a handful of lime to their containers, just to assure the base pH of their soil is up near the high end of the range. As said already, runoff pH is worthless... its like coffee from a percolator that gets weaker the more water you add to the system... at which point does the runoff pH mean anything in correlation to the soil above, 2% runoff, 10%, 20%? ... the strength of your runoff is totally arbitrary and meaningless. Just make sure the pH of your input fluids is exactly 6.3 pH, and all will be perfect.

 

[Dankjuu]

After spraying her with neem I decided to cut off the affected areas and it doesn't seem to spread further. The twisted leaves are normal again, used to water her with 3L of water and after reading a bit it seems like the amount is way to much for a 15L pot. Think I'm gonna water with around 1L from now on and water till runoff once every second week.
The soil pH was set to 6,2 I'm gonna set my water to 6,3 from now on!

 

[Emilya Green]

After spraying her with neem I decided to cut off the affected areas and it doesn't seem to spread further. The twisted leaves are normal again, used to water her with 3L of water and after reading a bit it seems like the amount is way to much for a 15L pot. Think I'm gonna water with around 1L from now on and water till runoff once every second week.
The soil pH was set to 6,2 I'm gonna set my water to 6,3 from now on!

I am glad the neem worked for you. Remember to reapply it every 7 days for at least 3 times to totally break their lifecycle. You are not watering correctly in order to best water a weed. Please read my link on how to properly water. Every time I see a new grower thinking for the plant in trying to decide how much water to give and how often to do it, I see them get into troubles with the plant. How did you determine that your soil was set to 6.2? That seems to be a very odd number to set soil to. Keep watering at 6.3 though... that is a good thing and is probably going to help a lot.

 

[Dankjuu]

I am glad the neem worked for you. Remember to reapply it every 7 days for at least 3 times to totally break their lifecycle. You are not watering correctly in order to best water a weed. Please read my link on how to properly water. Every time I see a new grower thinking for the plant in trying to decide how much water to give and how often to do it, I see them get into troubles with the plant. How did you determine that your soil was set to 6.2? That seems to be a very odd number to set soil to. Keep watering at 6.3 though... that is a good thing and is probably going to help a lot.

Will def do The info on the soil says its 6,2 and 1,3 ec, but don't know the current pH until I get a meter for the soil.

 

[Emilya Green]

Don't worry about a meter for the soil... a regular pH meter is what is needed and then you conduct a slurry test. I have never done a soil pH test because I see no need for it. When I needed to, I simply watered at the correct pH and let the soil do its thing. If your soil is really set that low, I suggest throwing a little lime in there before using it again in order to get the pH up near 6.8, where it belongs.

 

[Emeraldo]

Now, if the soil pH is between 6.0 and 7.0, do you need to measure water pH at all? I've stopped checking water pH at all unless it is a suspected problem. Water pH does not affect soil pH. Given the way it works, I'd say a soil pH meter is very useful and a water pH meter is less necessary. Emilya, if I am wrong, where are you getting your information? Thanks @FelipeBlu for your thoughts on this topic last year... I used to pH every bottle of water, oh boy glad I don't do that anymore.

 

[Emilya Green]

Now, if the soil pH is between 6.0 and 7.0, do you need to measure water pH at all? I've stopped checking water pH at all unless it is a suspected problem. Water pH does not affect soil pH. Given the way it works, I'd say a soil pH meter is very useful and a water pH meter is less necessary. Emilya, if I am wrong, where are you getting your information? Thanks @FelipeBlu for your thoughts on this topic last year... I used to pH every bottle of water, oh boy glad I don't do that anymore.

Greetings Emeraldo! There is a group of growers these days who believe that all they have to do is set their soil base pH to a number within the accepted soil pH range of 6.2-6.8, and they can call it a day. They don't believe that they need to pH adjust any fluids hitting that soil, because the soil will "buffer" it to where it needs to be. They believe that this is the best way to do things because this is the way fields of crops outdoors are handled, and they are throwing around several papers that study this method and "prove" conclusively that this is the proper way to do things in the field, so why not indoors in our containers also? To accomplish this feat, slurry tests are necessary to see what needs to be done to adjust the soil, soil tests are recommended and then the soil needs to be amended or special forms of nitrogen used (like a farmer in a field) to bring the soil to where they want it to be. This all seems like a lot of extra work to me and not something that every gardener of weeds will be willing to do, especially in 5 gallon containers.

I don't get my information from any study or paper so this crowd, you too apparently, think they can discount everything I say, since I can't back what I say up with any "science" that they are willing to accept. The problem is that the method that I speak of has been used as long as we have grown in containers and used synthetic nutrients to do it with. Aside from anecdotal evidence, there are no papers or science backing up these tried and true, developed by years of experience, methods... we just are using common sense.

So I back up what I do by using my always extremely beautiful plants as evidence and I use logic and reason to explain why what I do works. Let's compare and contrast both of these methods using logic and common sense.

When you water a container to runoff and create a column of saturated soil in your container, what do you think the pH of that column of wet soil is? Do you think it is sitting at the base pH of your soil? No, to the contrary, the water that you added vastly outweighs the soil in that container, and it is its pH that takes dominance in this container, not that of the soil. When you water, that entire container of soil has no choice but to immediately take on the pH of the fluid you just saturated it with, although the buffers in the soil do immediately start working on that saturation to drift it up toward the soil base pH. Let's say that you add your nutes to your water and not believing in adjusting your fluid pH you end up with a solution with a pH in the low 5's, before you add it to your soil that you know has a base pH of 6.5. For some period of time, while the buffers in your soil work on moving the pH into a useful range where the nutes are able to break free of their chelated bonds and become available to the plant, the plant can only use the water and for a while your chelated nutes are invisible to the plant. In contrast, I pH adjust my fluids to 6.3 pH immediately before applying it to the plants. My nutes are all immediately available to the plant, chelated and not, and my entry point is at the pH where mathematically we can prove that more nutes are more available than at any other setting.

Your system will allow the pH to eventually adjust up to the soil base pH and since it is set to 6.5, that is where the drift upwards stops. Any nutes that are more available at the upper end of the pH range are not given that advantage and they only get the response that is available at 6.5. My nutes, in contrast, will continue to rise above 6.5, up to the higher end base pH that my soil's enjoy. My nutes travel through the entire range from 6.3 - 6.8, picking up each nutrient in it turn, and my nutes start out mobile and remain available all through the watering cycle, yours do not. Because I take the extra step to pH adjust my fluids, putting a little extra effort into each feeding than the "lets let the soil do it" folks do, my plants can better take advantage of my nutes because they are in contact with the nutes through the entire watering cycle... yours are not. Logic informs me that in a side by side test, my extra step would allow for bigger and more healthy plants as compared to this adjusting the soil only method. Both methods will work to grow pot, that is indisputable, but the taking of shortcuts ALWAYS results in the loss of something in any system, including this one. Since no one will probably be willing to do this side by side comparison, we will likely never know for sure what would happen and this is why today we are forced to rely on logic and reason to give light in this debate for all of us.

 

[Emeraldo]

Emilya, you obviously have a lot of experience and ideas as well, well-founded or not. I, on the other hand, have gone over to the camp that believes soil pH (not water pH) controls the plant environment. I rely on my experience for that. So much for us. I really don't care who wins that argument, let me know which side it is please.

Dankuu has a serious problem with his plant, and it occurred to me from looking at the photos that a soil pH meter might give a clue as to what to do. I suggested he check the soil pH with a soil pH meter. It seemed Dankuu was about to try that until you informed him that a soil pH meter, in your opinion. isn't necessary. I still think it would be worthwhile to explore that angle of the problem.

 

[Emilya Green]

Emilya, you obviously have a lot of experience and ideas as well, well-founded or not. I, on the other hand, have gone over to the camp that believes soil pH (not water pH) controls the plant environment. I rely on my experience for that. So much for us. I really don't care who wins that argument, let me know which side it is please.

Dankuu has a serious problem with his plant, and it occurred to me from looking at the photos that a soil pH meter might give a clue as to what to do. I suggested he check the soil pH with a soil pH meter. It seemed Dankuu was about to try that until you informed him that a soil pH meter, in your opinion. isn't necessary. I still think it would be worthwhile to explore that angle of the problem.

That would be a nice solution if there were such a thing as a soil pH meter. Depending on many factors, the pH in one area of the container can be much different than in another. Just where do you suggest he measure with said meter?