Grow five, same problem every grow

[Ancient Green]

I have height constraints myself. I can’t have plants grow any taller than 4 feet. Since I use 10 gallon fabric containers I need to be a bit more aggressive to keep them lower

Mainlining/manifolding is great for that but it’s resource intensive. Whatever you plan on feeding the strain should be increased by 20% at least, and you need to give additional time for root growth. That could be part of what you’re seeing but honestly your plants look a thousand times better than a lot of the plants we see here. I’ve seen veteran growers with much uglier and weaker plants than yours.

Where the hell did this forum come from? People here are amazing with all the great responses. This little tidbit concerning a Manifold and increased feed is very important to me ! I dont know if you can see, but there is an additional straggler Cola in the middle that I decided to keep. (another bad move.) So instead of 8 colas, I have an extra cola in the middle which may be a little too much. So, under feeding is my main problem. Got it ! I may chop out the 9th cola to leave it with only 8. I'm only in 3 gallons of coco/soil as well. Did I mention I went 10 full weeks Veg? this little plant is a monster at the frame...

I agree with @bluter , To me your grow just looks like you need some dialing in. That comes with running repeated grows since no two environments are the same. You’ll learn how to push right up to those limits for your space. This is why I highly recommend focusing in on refining a single method/approach. That way you can learn the limits of your room and where you can get the most efficiency from. I know you know, I’m just reiterating lol.

I'm with you, Ive used the same strain, Northern Lights, for 4 grows now to learn from and for consistency. Ive changed the soil around a bit, but otherwise everything is the same. (Ocean Forest, Happy Frog x2, and now Coco Loco.) Now that my deficiencies are slowing down, this might be my best grow yet. I had terrible luck correcting the problems with my previous grows and it really bummed me out.

You’ll get what you’re looking for once you add calmag and raise your temps, there’s no doubt in my mind about that. Your plants are showing classic signs so no need to chase your tail further about that concern.

A huge thanks to everyone, you have no idea how much this helps and how hard Ive been looking for answers. Ive been on many forums as well. I'm blown away by the 420 Mag people.

 

[bluter]

Is the SF-1000 really all that bad? It fits my space (15 inches by 15 inches) perfectly and has a dimmer. Oddly, I'm not running it at full power either. Bloom recommendations with this light are 100% power at 12-16 inches. I'm at 16 inches. I'm not sure if more power will help considering that 100 watts seems to be a bit much already?

Anyway, there arent that many options for a small cabinet unless I get a big tent. Any recommendations for a new LED? I love buying new toys. Maybe 150 watts? HLG? AC afinity has some new LED's that have a bit more power than the SF-1000. I already use AC fans, maybe I can get the full system that is automated for RH etc..

you could use another 50 - 100w easy. a single plant starts to get decent around 200w.

 

[SmokingWings]

m trying to learn how to read my plants and am not convinced this is a cal deficiency. (still not sure though, the pics I look at seem very similar when it comes to Cal, P and/or K deficiencies.) I did give a good dose or Cal mag last watering though and am upping nutrients.

It does get complicated and just looking at an excess/deficiency chart can be confusing. Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium deficiencies tend to show as a yellowing of the fingers. Two or more showing up at the same time makes it a tad bit harder to figure out what is going on. Kinda have to try to eliminate one at a time to see which disappears and stays away.

Your plant has a copperish or dirty bronze or brass color to the spots which tends to show up with a Calcium availability is low or sometimes with other nutrients. After trying with the usual N, P & K attempts without any real improvement in when and how much of these bronze sports showed up I started to see what happened with a liquid Cal-Mag product (5ml per gallon) and noticed that new spots were not showing up as often on existing or new leaves. Spots or areas that were already there remained but definitely fewer new spots.

I had a free sample bottle of the Cal-Mag liquid from Roots Organic and that also worked. Next step was to try with a dry product that could be top-dressed and went with the powdered product from Roots. Have not looked back since. It worked so well that I do not see any of the off color bronze spots and have forgotten that I ever had any on a plant until I see someone's photo.

Funny, I even have my cabinet covered in a blanket, its still too cool. If I reduce the intake fan speed, the temps go up but so does the humidity. So, I can reduce fan speed to get temps up to 75 but its still very cold lights out. (around 60-65)

This is in the laundry room, right? Thought I had read that in your thread but could not find it again. If the room has a door experiment with opening and closing depending on the time of day or night. I was lucky that the basement room I am using has a door, a crude duct work opening for hot or cool air.

If no door and it is a room you could try hanging a curtain from a tension rod available from hardware or home improvement big box stores for just that purpose. It allows some control of the the room's temperature.

Funny, I went to the website and the description of Coco Loco didntr have much information about exactly whats in it. I've had better luck with Happy Frog, and moved to Coco Loco to "test the water" with Coco. So far, I'm not crazy about it. It holds water a little too much ! More so than Happy Frog. Thanks for the tip, I may actually contact Fox Farm to see what they have to say.

If I remember right they are using a mix of several different composts for the organic or natural mineral soil. Then they wash, rinse and treat the coco coir before adding to the compost. I have been thinking of giving them a call to find out if they will go into more detail on what composts but mostly to see if they will give me an idea of how much compost to how much coco and Perlite. Probably will say it is propriety info but any info they mention is better than none.

Was going to mention that if space is limited you could experiment with some of the micro grow styles. A different way of looking at your plant and sometimes accepting a smaller harvest in exchange for a higher quality. And if it starts to bring out the artist then look at examples of micro grows where the plant is trained in a Bonsai Tree style.

 

[Ancient Green]

It does get complicated and just looking at an excess/deficiency chart can be confusing. Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium deficiencies tend to show as a yellowing of the fingers. Two or more showing up at the same time makes it a tad bit harder to figure out what is going on. Kinda have to try to eliminate one at a time to see which disappears and stays away.

Your plant has a copperish or dirty bronze or brass color to the spots which tends to show up with a Calcium availability is low or sometimes with other nutrients. After trying with the usual N, P & K attempts without any real improvement in when and how much of these bronze sports showed up I started to see what happened with a liquid Cal-Mag product (5ml per gallon) and noticed that new spots were not showing up as often on existing or new leaves. Spots or areas that were already there remained but definitely fewer new spots.

Thanks for the troubleshooting tips, I'm seeing the yellowing of the fingers you mention alonsg side bronzing and browning of the leaves. For now, I'm treating it as a calcium deficiency/underfeeding. If there is a P or K deficiency along side this, I've also increased the feed --- So far things seem to be improving.

I had a free sample bottle of the Cal-Mag liquid from Roots Organic and that also worked. Next step was to try with a dry product that could be top-dressed and went with the powdered product from Roots. Have not looked back since. It worked so well that I do not see any of the off color bronze spots and have forgotten that I ever had any on a plant until I see someone's photo.

I'm using two cal mag products now, Fox Farm Bush Doctor Cal Mag and Sensi Cal Mag +. Long story as to why I wasnt using calmag, I was following the lead of another grower. Really helpful to know you had similar problems to mine and Cal mag made them go away... Now I just need to figure out how much to give...

This is in the laundry room, right? Thought I had read that in your thread but could not find it again. If the room has a door experiment with opening and closing depending on the time of day or night. I was lucky that the basement room I am using has a door, a crude duct work opening for hot or cool air.

If no door and it is a room you could try hanging a curtain from a tension rod available from hardware or home improvement big box stores for just that purpose. It allows some control of the the room's temperature.

I installed a heater, temps are now in the low 80's lights on and around 75 lights off. Its kind of a headache though, I really need to get something automated or with a thermostat.

If I remember right they are using a mix of several different composts for the organic or natural mineral soil. Then they wash, rinse and treat the coco coir before adding to the compost. I have been thinking of giving them a call to find out if they will go into more detail on what composts but mostly to see if they will give me an idea of how much compost to how much coco and Perlite. Probably will say it is propriety info but any info they mention is better than none.

Not crazy about Coco and probably wont use it again. I may use something super light weight as an experiment next grow, I want to water heavily to runoff without getting bogged down. Coco is interesting, it drains well and holds water too which is kind of odd. From what I've learned, Coco is bad news when left to dry out, all hell broke out for me letting it dry too much. Soil seems to handle a dry day better... (my plants seem to like a dry spell in soil, not Coco !) Ive increased my watering frequency, around every three days.

Was going to mention that if space is limited you could experiment with some of the micro grow styles. A different way of looking at your plant and sometimes accepting a smaller harvest in exchange for a higher quality. And if it starts to bring out the artist then look at examples of micro grows where the plant is trained in a Bonsai Tree style.

I use the mainline style to keep medium sized plants small and as low as they can be. I also grow bushy indicas with short internodal spaces. 8 Colas in a circle around 24-36 inches in height...

I use a metal rod to tie the main branches (after topping) horizontal. Then I let three nodes grow on each side for a total of 12 nodes. Nodes 1 and 3 on each side stay, I take away node 2, for a total of 8 nodes in a circle..As an experiment, I let this grow Veg for over 10 weeks to see if I could build a thick beefy frame. So basically its a small/ BIG plant if that makes sense.

Here is my current grow and mainline pattern. I had a rogue shoot that started to flower, I decided to pull it to the middle. This grow has 9 tops, 8 in a circle one in the center.. I really love this technique, no need for a trellis net and all the colas stay even with very little training. I also love the symmetry using this method. I may take away the center cola, its not keeping up with the circle of 8..

Previous grow with less veg time.... (circle of 8) Notice deficiencies here too, I had the same problems and lost a lot of leaves due to deficencies mid-late flower....

 

[Ancient Green]

you could use another 50 - 100w easy. a single plant starts to get decent around 200w.

As I said, there are not a lot of options available for my small grow space, but I'm shopping now. My light has a few years on it now so it might be time for a new light anyway. I like an excuse to buy new toys!

AC Afinity has a light that looks good to me, its 130 watts and will fit my space..(link below) Not sure 30 watts will make that much of a difference though... I could automate my entire system using the AC afinity system as I already have the fan and carbon filter.

Any light shopping tips greatly appreciated ! Space is 16"x 16 " x 32" ---- It cant be a light that needs much vertical space, 12-16 inches away for flower or I run out of room.

Ac light

 

[bluter]

Any light shopping tips greatly appreciated ! Space is 16"x 16 " x 32" ---- It cant be a light that needs much vertical space, 12-16 inches away for flower or I run out of room.

run with what you have and add cheap side light. space buckets are about your size. a lot of them use rope light on the sides.

give space buckets a google for ideas.

edit : also look at what @Light Addict has accomplished in small cabinets.

should mention i finish all my plants around 36 inches. you don't need a 12 foot tree for decent colas. a lot of the scrog guys finish under 3 foot.

 

[Ancient Green]

run with what you have and add cheap side light. space buckets are about your size. a lot of them use rope light on the sides.

Thanks, a side light might be really nice as it might get just a little more warmth into my grow as well... I'm shopping now ! Thanks for the Light addict user information, I'll check out his setup..

give space buckets a google for ideas.

edit : also look at what @Light Addict has accomplished in small cabinets.

should mention i finish all my plants around 36 inches. you don't need a 12 foot tree for decent colas. a lot of the scrog guys finish under 3 foot.

My grow cabinet is a safe converted to a grow cabinet, drilling 4 inch holes was a nightmare, I felt like I was cracking a safe in an old western movies or something. I love being able to lock up my doors though, nobody is getting in easily.

Oddly, being in a small space has taught me a lot. Learning to grow a plant with all tops at an equal distance to the lights is turning my small space into an advantage instead of a disadvantage. I may be new, but keeping the flowers at equal height with equal light seems to me very important, otherwise the tallest colas become "king of the hill" and rob all of the lower buds... You cant let these colas think they are the boss ! You gotta knockem all down to stay equal... At least, thats my style..

 

[SmokingWings]

I'm seeing the yellowing of the fingers you mention alonsg side bronzing and browning of the leaves. For now, I'm treating it as a calcium deficiency/underfeeding. If there is a P or K deficiency along side this, I've also increased the feed --- So far things seem to be improving.

If we are talking the same sort of yellowing often associated with Nitrogen and Potassium shortages/deficiencies then it might be hard to make it go away once it starts. But, it is possible to slow down the deficiency which is an improvement. The idea is to keep the green fan leaves from yellowing and falling off too early in the flowering stage.

Yellowing and leaf loss will not necessarily go away on the current plants. But I figure it can be eliminated or at least greatly reduced on future grows using the same soil media and fertilizers if changes to fertilizing are started earlier than most gardeners have been getting used to doing.

After reading some of the work/studying/researching @Keffka and some others have been doing on Phosphorous I am no longer sure that there is as big of a problem as some of us may be thinking.

Not crazy about Coco and probably wont use it again. I may use something super light weight as an experiment next grow, I want to water heavily to runoff without getting bogged down. Coco is interesting, it drains well and holds water too which is kind of odd. From what I've learned, Coco is bad news when left to dry out, all hell broke out for me letting it dry too much. Soil seems to handle a dry day better... (my plants seem to like a dry spell in soil, not Coco !) Ive increased my watering frequency, around every three days.

I have been using Peat Moss for what seems forever as one of the 'Holy Trinity' of potting soil mixes. It has been hard to get really involved in experimenting or playing around with Coco Coir as a substitute for the peat but I do buy some every now and then to see what can be done.

Yep, it does seem that soil handles days of being dry with quick recovery. The big problem is when a natural soil medium drys out to a stage where the surfaces of the soil materials including peat moss and coco become so dry that they seem to form a layer of natural wax and end up repelling water. Water just flows through the soil or runs off the surface without soaking into the soil mix. The word is 'hydrophobic'.

Here is my current grow and mainline pattern. I had a rogue shoot that started to flower, I decided to pull it to the middle. This grow has 9 tops, 8 in a circle one in the center.. I really love this technique, no need for a trellis net and all the colas stay even with very little training. I also love the symmetry using this method. I may take away the center cola, its not keeping up with the circle of 8..

What I call the "Chalice" especially after removing any stem/branch growing up into the center.

I mentioned the Bonsai Tree idea since the plants become so well-trained that they look like small trees and the grows I have seen produce plants suited for small areas that still have excellent looking stacks of buds growing on each main branch. Plus it is just another way of looking at what we can do with the plant.

Have fun and good luck with your plants.

 

[Keffka]

After reading some of the work/studying/researching @Keffka and some others have been doing on Phosphorous I am no longer sure that there is as big of a problem as some of us may be thinking

The way we as humans think about Phosphorus is/was the biggest issue. I am still on the fence about the why. I am willing to accept that in the beginning we didn’t know better, and dumping P all over soil/plants seemed to be effective. However, in the beginning everything was effective because the land still hadn’t been devastated and leeched of its life.

At this point now though, we do know better, and we’re learning more every day. However, there’s big money in the sourcing and supply of NPK. There are also generations worth of humans who were raised on Big NPK lies, as well as the massive lie that the only way to provide enough food for everyone is to use synthetic nutrients. The food waste we produce alone is near equivalent to the “gains” you would get from synthetics. Producing enough food to feed everyone is a very heartwarming lie that has proven very effective at messaging.

So like a lot of modern day, we’re stuck in a struggle between the lies of the past and the hope of the future.

The big problem is when a natural soil medium drys out to a stage where the surfaces of the soil materials including peat moss and coco become so dry that they seem to form a layer of natural wax and end up repelling water. Water just flows through the soil or runs off the surface without soaking into the soil mix. The word is 'hydrophobic'.

I had 50 gallons of soil in a container that was dried out. I poured one quart of water into the 50 gallons and it came out of the bottom of the container almost immediately. I may as well have just tossed water into an empty bin lol. It took me multiple days and multiple slow waterings to get every bit of the soil moist.

So if you go hydrophobic, it takes a bit of patience to get it all back in order. Thankfully though, it doesn’t seem to be anywhere near as devastating as letting coco dry out. This is in an organic grow though. I can see if you allow the soil to go hydrophobic while using synthetics or salt based it could cause issues with the roots

 

[Ancient Green]

If we are talking the same sort of yellowing often associated with Nitrogen and Potassium shortages/deficiencies then it might be hard to make it go away once it starts. But, it is possible to slow down the deficiency which is an improvement. The idea is to keep the green fan leaves from yellowing and falling off too early in the flowering stage.

You really know your stuff and are 100 % correct. Yes, all of my grows start off with a little discoloration at week 6 and it seems very tough to stop once it begins. My fan leaves are all getting roasted now and I dont expect them to last much longer. So, I was hoping to have slowed this down but I'm not sure..

I left fan leaves on this grow without lollipopping, heavy defoliation etc.. The idea was to have some leaves to feed my plant if I had problems week 6. (last grow I defoliated heavily). I expect that ALL of the fan leaves will be falling off in a week or two. If I can slow this down and stop it from getting to my flowers, I might get something to smoke this grow.

Pic from last night, its gonna get rough at least 3 more weeks to go.

Yellowing and leaf loss will not necessarily go away on the current plants. But I figure it can be eliminated or at least greatly reduced on future grows using the same soil media and fertilizers if changes to fertilizing are started earlier than most gardeners have been getting used to doing.

After reading some of the work/studying/researching @Keffka and some others have been doing on Phosphorous I am no longer sure that there is as big of a problem as some of us may be thinking.

I was planning NOT to go heavy with P this grow, and have read that boosting P is worthless, causing more problems than it solves. I originally planned to use 3 1 2 (Veg Nutrients) for this entire grow but started feeding a mix of Veg and bloom after seeing the deficiencies. So, I'm totally confused now and really dont know what to feed in flower.Ive tried many different feed schedules now, Fox farm, Dyna grow and now my own " read the plant" method and week 6 still gets me.

For now, I am feeding heavy, around 450 PPM's with a mix of 3 1 2 (Foliage Pro) and Bloom (1 4 2). I dont want to overload the N now that I'm in flower, but dont want too much P either.... Feeding every watering twice a week. Runoff PPM's seems low, which is odd, PPM's around 250. Normally, I feed every other watering-- We'll see if increasing feed is a mistake in a week or two.

I am monitoring runoff PPM's and PH to give me an idea of how much salt is accumilating. I'm not sure this is a good way to test though. runoff PPM's and PH dont seem to show excess salts, but the Coco may be holding too many. I hate to flush now, but I may to get a reset just in case....

I have been using Peat Moss for what seems forever as one of the 'Holy Trinity' of potting soil mixes. It has been hard to get really involved in experimenting or playing around with Coco Coir as a substitute for the peat but I do buy some every now and then to see what can be done.

Yep, it does seem that soil handles days of being dry with quick recovery. The big problem is when a natural soil medium drys out to a stage where the surfaces of the soil materials including peat moss and coco become so dry that they seem to form a layer of natural wax and end up repelling water. Water just flows through the soil or runs off the surface without soaking into the soil mix. The word is 'hydrophobic'.


What I call the "Chalice" especially after removing any stem/branch growing up into the center.

Cool ! I didnt know it had a name.. Chalice huh, I like it ! I'm really thinking of removing number 9 to make this a nice circle.

I mentioned the Bonsai Tree idea since the plants become so well-trained that they look like small trees and the grows I have seen produce plants suited for small areas that still have excellent looking stacks of buds growing on each main branch. Plus it is just another way of looking at what we can do with the plant.

Have fun and good luck with your plants.

 

[JiggiLotus]

You really know your stuff and are 100 % correct. Yes, all of my grows start off with a little discoloration at week 6 and it seems very tough to stop once it begins. My fan leaves are all getting roasted now and I dont expect them to last much longer. So, I was hoping to have slowed this down but I'm not sure..

I left fan leaves on this grow without lollipopping, heavy defoliation etc.. The idea was to have some leaves to feed my plant if I had problems week 6. (last grow I defoliated heavily). I expect that ALL of the fan leaves will be falling off in a week or two. If I can slow this down and stop it from getting to my flowers, I might get something to smoke this grow.

Pic from last night, its gonna get rough at least 3 more weeks to go.

I was planning NOT to go heavy with P this grow, and have read that boosting P is worthless, causing more problems than it solves. I originally planned to use 3 1 2 (Veg Nutrients) for this entire grow but started feeding a mix of Veg and bloom after seeing the deficiencies. So, I'm totally confused now and really dont know what to feed in flower.Ive tried many different feed schedules now, Fox farm, Dyna grow and now my own " read the plant" method and week 6 still gets me.

For now, I am feeding heavy, around 450 PPM's with a mix of 3 1 2 (Foliage Pro) and Bloom (1 4 2). I dont want to overload the N now that I'm in flower, but dont want too much P either.... Feeding every watering twice a week. Runoff PPM's seems low, which is odd, PPM's around 250. Normally, I feed every other watering-- We'll see if increasing feed is a mistake in a week or two.

I am monitoring runoff PPM's and PH to give me an idea of how much salt is accumilating. I'm not sure this is a good way to test though. runoff PPM's and PH dont seem to show excess salts, but the Coco may be holding too many. I hate to flush now, but I may to get a reset just in case....



Cool ! I didnt know it had a name.. Chalice huh, I like it ! I'm really thinking of removing number 9 to make this a nice circle.

I think the plant looks good.
Short n stocky

 

[bluter]

What I call the "Chalice" especially after removing any stem/branch growing up into the center.

lol you obviously don't know any french canadians

 

[Ancient Green]

I think the plant looks good.
Short n stocky

Thanks, it wont look pretty in a few weeks though ! Comeback to see the carnage in a little while.

I appreciate the compliment, growing the main stems horizonatally really keeps the height low and stocky (mainline) otherwise I couldnt fit the plant. I have 32 inches vertical space before I hit the lights. (minus 12 inches for the Pot and saucer)

 

[Ancient Green]

lol you obviously don't know any french canadians

Well, my grandparents were French Canadian (spoke fluent French) and Ive been to Montreal a few times to see the Expos play baseball.. (now the Nationals).. I love Montreal, you have the best sandwiches I've ever had in my life. I lived in Vermont for many years right across the border. (Burlington)

My grandmother used to speak french to the kids when they were misbehaving. She would say something that sounds like "Mumptey Milangua"--- It was crazy, like an old witch spell/curse when spoken. The kids would stop their bad behavior and cower in a corner.... getting "mumptied" was worse than getting a spanking... (translation to english = my little mosquito !)

The kids were in fear of getting "Mumptied" and acted like angels just to avoid it being said..It was a briliant system.

 

[bluter]

"chalice" in french is a very well known obscenity lol

 

[Ancient Green]

"chalice" in french is a very well known obscenity lol

Man, you got my interest up, so I looked it up.

Stupid Week 6 flower--- Chalice ! (am I using it correctly in a sentence?)

Quebec French profanity - Wikipedia

 

[Ancient Green]

The way we as humans think about Phosphorus is/was the biggest issue. I am still on the fence about the why. I am willing to accept that in the beginning we didn’t know better, and dumping P all over soil/plants seemed to be effective. However, in the beginning everything was effective because the land still hadn’t been devastated and leeched of its life.

At this point now though, we do know better, and we’re learning more every day. However, there’s big money in the sourcing and supply of NPK. There are also generations worth of humans who were raised on Big NPK lies, as well as the massive lie that the only way to provide enough food for everyone is to use synthetic nutrients. The food waste we produce alone is near equivalent to the “gains” you would get from synthetics. Producing enough food to feed everyone is a very heartwarming lie that has proven very effective at messaging.

So like a lot of modern day, we’re stuck in a struggle between the lies of the past and the hope of the future.

If I could, I would go fully organic but the complexity of organic growing in a small space might not be a good place to start. I did use a little rabbit manure for this grow and Coco Loco isnt pure Coco, there are some nutrients in it.

I've done a lot of reading, and the President of Dynagrow mentioned that Bloom nutrients are not needed for growing weed. They sell bloom nutrients because the customer wants it. His exact words were, " its easier to give them what they want instead of educating them". So, I decided to run a grow nice and simple using Foliage Pro only.(3-1-2)

In particular, P is the one nutrient that many gardeners feel is over done with todays nutrients. Too much is bad and a lot of the boosters CRANK P.... I was trying to avoid this, thinking that P in abundance was roasting my plants Mid/Late flower. Nope, same problem as always.... So I'm back to giving them a taste of Bloom nutrients. 50/50 Foliage Pro/Bloom and Cal mag... To be honest, I'm more confused after 4 grows than I was when I started. At the start, I just followed feeding charts, now I think too much and chase my tail around in circles.

I had 50 gallons of soil in a container that was dried out. I poured one quart of water into the 50 gallons and it came out of the bottom of the container almost immediately. I may as well have just tossed water into an empty bin lol. It took me multiple days and multiple slow waterings to get every bit of the soil moist.

So if you go hydrophobic, it takes a bit of patience to get it all back in order. Thankfully though, it doesn’t seem to be anywhere near as devastating as letting coco dry out. This is in an organic grow though. I can see if you allow the soil to go hydrophobic while using synthetics or salt based it could cause issues with the roots

 

[bluter]

you could also use "tabernacle" - ta-bar-nak for the correct pronunciation. "chalice: is closer to caw-lease. most french canadian swear words are a bastardization of roman catholic icons.

 

[Ancient Green]

you could also use "tabernacle" - ta-bar-nak for the correct pronunciation. "chalice: is closer to caw-lease. most french canadian swear words are a bastardization of roman catholic icons.

Week 6 of flower ---- Tabarnak ! Caw Lease ! Mump-e-Teh Malang-Gua ! (scolding my plant in french/canadian, mangled up by an american who has no clue)

I'm quite sure I'm making an ass of myself, but thats nothing new to me. Thats the cool thing about getting older, you just dont care any more. (and actually enjoy it)

 

[bluter]

Mump-e-Teh Malang-Gua !

that one's definitely lost in translation