Leaves curling near bud sites

[Kkelly92]

New to this and first timer.. leaves near bud sites are starting to curl downwards. Haven't switched to 12-12 light yet as they don't seem to be that big and only on week 7 as of today. Medium is soil biobizz all mix organic so not ph testing etc. Any advice guidance would be great. Thanks

 

[fanleaf]

You may not have switched to 12/12 to flower yet but your plant has been flowering for at least 2 weeks...Pics under nor.al lighting would help.
Besides flowering, it doesn't look quite right. I suspects signs of hermaphrodite if we get good clear pics and just under bud sites. Its sure unhappy about something and wont yield much at all. Sorry it's not news you wanted to hear but it's the truth.

 

[Kkelly92]

Thanks a lot. Will get better photo's later on. Appreciate it.

 

[Kkelly92]

Hope these help give a clearer picture.

 

[Emilya Green]

New to this and first timer.. leaves near bud sites are starting to curl downwards. Haven't switched to 12-12 light yet as they don't seem to be that big and only on week 7 as of today. Medium is soil biobizz all mix organic so not ph testing etc. Any advice guidance would be great. Thanks

Are you using any nutes? The downturned leaf tips could mean a couple of things... but I am concerned about what you are giving them if anything and your lack of pH adjusting.

 

[Kkelly92]

Are you using any nutes? The downturned leaf tips could mean a couple of things... but I am concerned about what you are giving them if anything and your lack of pH adjusting.

Yes using the bio bloom at the mo just about to start using the boost. I've been told not to worry about the pH as it's not in coco soil. Tbh I probably didn't help as started them off outside then bought the tent to re-home them in. So just trying to look at this lot as a practice run

Would u suggest starting to test the pH then and use the pH up and down to maintain the correct level?

Thanks

 

[Emilya Green]

Yes using the bio bloom at the mo just about to start using the boost. I've been told not to worry about the pH as it's not in coco soil. Tbh I probably didn't help as started them off outside then bought the tent to re-home them in. So just trying to look at this lot as a practice run

Would u suggest starting to test the pH then and use the pH up and down to maintain the correct level?

Thanks

Someone has advised you incorrectly. Anytime you are using synthetic nutes (and you are) it is important to get the pH into the correct range, whether it be in coco soilless grows, or actually in soil. Your soil being "organic" is not a factor in this... if you want the nutes to break out of the salt bonds that make them stable while in the bottle, the solution that they are in has to be within the pH range that they are designed to work in. Checking the downloads available for the bio products I found this note: A pH-value between 6.2 and 6.5 is ideal.
It is not a matter of maintaining a pH... you should make sure that every fluid that hits your soil is adjusted to this 6.2-6.5 range, and the soil will take care of itself.

 

[Kkelly92]

Oh dear they're doomed then the poor fuckers I do have a pH probe so shall I start doing that now or do u think it's a little too late to save them. Roll on the next lot

 

[Kkelly92]

And sorry just to confirm then... You test the pH of the water and nutes before you put in to the soil. The soil itself doesn't need to be tested? Or is it good to do both any how?

 

[Marzbadrock]

According to biobizz you don't need to pH the water or nutes. The soil is pH and buffered.

20190904_101618.jpg

• Marzbadrock
• Sep 4, 2019

20190904_101611.jpg

• Marzbadrock
• Sep 4, 2019

 

[Emilya Green]

And sorry just to confirm then... You test the pH of the water and nutes before you put in to the soil. The soil itself doesn't need to be tested? Or is it good to do both any how?

It takes a lab to properly test the base pH of your soil... and that is the only reading that is important. What people don't realize is that the pH of any particular region in your container depends on if it is wet or dry soil, or in other words, if it is being influenced by the pH of the liquid you have applied, or if it is drying out and reverting back to its base pH. Depending on where you measure in the container, you could get a whole lot of different readings... and then you would have to question which one was the correct one... no wonder this is so confusing to new gardeners.
Simply adjust the pH of your fluid... whether it is plain water or water mixed with nutes, and make sure that right before you pour it on the soil, it is adjusted to 6.3 pH. The soil has a base pH of around 6.8 pH. When you water and saturate the soil to the point of runoff, the pH of that container of water/nutes/soil has to be the pH that you adjusted to, simply because the water vastly outweighs everything else in there. Immediately, the buffers in the soil start to drive the pH upwards, towards the base pH, and as the plant start to use the water and the top starts to dry out, that region will revert to the higher base pH, driving that region through the entire range of 6.3-6.8, exactly what the nutes need to have happen. As you let the water level drop all the way to the bottom of the container between waterings, the entire container of soil eventually sees the entire usable pH range. It is a beautiful system, if you let it work as it should.
With you not adjusting the pH, two wild things happened, hence the current look of your plants. When you watered without nutes, the higher pH of that water was already almost out of the usable range, and any nutes left in the soil would no longer be mobile. When you added nutes to the water, the pH would dive way down out of the range, clear down into the hydro range, and again the nutes will mostly not be mobile within the soil at that range. Adjust to 6.3, every time... and it will be like you flipped a magic switch... you will be amazed what a difference it makes.

 

[Kkelly92]

It takes a lab to properly test the base pH of your soil... and that is the only reading that is important. What people don't realize is that the pH of any particular region in your container depends on if it is wet or dry soil, or in other words, if it is being influenced by the pH of the liquid you have applied, or if it is drying out and reverting back to its base pH. Depending on where you measure in the container, you could get a whole lot of different readings... and then you would have to question which one was the correct one... no wonder this is so confusing to new gardeners.
Simply adjust the pH of your fluid... whether it is plain water or water mixed with nutes, and make sure that right before you pour it on the soil, it is adjusted to 6.3 pH. The soil has a base pH of around 6.8 pH. When you water and saturate the soil to the point of runoff, the pH of that container of water/nutes/soil has to be the pH that you adjusted to, simply because the water vastly outweighs everything else in there. Immediately, the buffers in the soil start to drive the pH upwards, towards the base pH, and as the plant start to use the water and the top starts to dry out, that region will revert to the higher base pH, driving that region through the entire range of 6.3-6.8, exactly what the nutes need to have happen. As you let the water level drop all the way to the bottom of the container between waterings, the entire container of soil eventually sees the entire usable pH range. It is a beautiful system, if you let it work as it should.
With you not adjusting the pH, two wild things happened, hence the current look of your plants. When you watered without nutes, the higher pH of that water was already almost out of the usable range, and any nutes left in the soil would no longer be mobile. When you added nutes to the water, the pH would dive way down out of the range, clear down into the hydro range, and again the nutes will mostly not be mobile within the soil at that range. Adjust to 6.3, every time... and it will be like you flipped a magic switch... you will be amazed what a difference it makes.

Oh thank you so much for the help and advice I really appreciate it!!

 

[Kkelly92]

So my mum tests her water in her spa with these and I've just got her to test the water and nutes I've been using and the reading is this..

 

[Emilya Green]

looks a bit high

 

[Kkelly92]

looks a bit high

So is this when I add the pH down. And if it were to low the pH up? I'll grab some tomorrow and see how it goes.

 

[Emilya Green]

So is this when I add the pH down. And if it were to low the pH up? I'll grab some tomorrow and see how it goes.

yep... as long as you aren't too far off that soil is supposed to help you get in the range. Keep practicing.

 

[Kkelly92]

yep... as long as you aren't too far off that soil is supposed to help you get in the range. Keep practicing.

Thank you x

 

[fanleaf]

Looks all female in the pictures but it is a few weeks into flower mode.