Leaves curling upward

PanchoVilla420

Active Member
I have several new clones on a first time closet grow. Several different strains main concern on a snoball1. Benn in the pots 10 days.
pH 6.0
Feeding bat guano ( only been fed once)
Peat mixed with compost medium
Temp 70-80
Humidity 50-65%
Watering 2-3 day intervals 1-2 gall between 6 girls as needed for moist but not saturated
Also have used a protein solution one time few days after planted
No pests no fungi or bacteria visibly apperant
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Overall happy with growth and appearances just want to nip any problems in the bud. Maybe just being overly cautious with first grow
Along with curled up leaves have some retarded growth( 3 leaf and not fully formed 5 leaf)
 

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Hiya poncho, those plants are looking good, so relax.
Unless you're folier feeding,don't spray the plants, the water will magnify the light and may burn your leafs. The plants like to be on the dryer side. Also the ph should be closer to 6.4 in soil, but your plants seem happy with what's going on.
The reflective foil around the plant pots is doing nothing for the plants.
 
.Thanks for the pointers. Sincerely
And the 3 leaf growth?
Simple mutation or maybe nute issue. My real question there is should that be pruned first when it's time or just prune as normal?
I wouldn't think the number of leaves has any bearing on health but that's why I'm on this forum
Thanks again!
 
That's not a powerful light so it shouldn't burn the leafs, so if nothing is eating the leaf, then it should be mutation.
Have you checked to see if anything is eating it?
 
No bugs no tissue damage no eggs no feces just mangled new growth on two of my gals
Not all new growth on them. Its about 3 or 4 leaves on the tallest baby on the right side and 2 leaves on the Mandarin cookie*sunset on the left. Should be visible in the pics. I can send more if needed
 
No bugs no tissue damage no eggs no feces just mangled new growth on two of my gals
Not all new growth on them. Its about 3 or 4 leaves on the tallest baby on the right side and 2 leaves on the Mandarin cookie*sunset on the left. Should be visible in the pics. I can send more if needed
What, its happening on 2 plants?
Have you got a strong fan on them?
How strong was the bat poo that you fed them?
 
What, its happening on 2 plants?
Have you got a strong fan on them?
How strong was the bat poo that you fed them?
Yep the Mandarin and snoball that were purchased at two different locations. Strange right
The guano is 10-3-1
Not any higher on nitrogen than I use on the landscape or veggies and quite lower on the phos and pot
Using a good oscillating fan fixed in a corner but the shape of the closet is perfect for good rotation for co2
 
That bat poo is a little under ballanced and quite heavy on N, canna likes a n-p-k more like 3-1-2 in veg or something balanced like 1-1-1 will work at a push.
If it's on 2 plants, I would raise your lights a couple of inches, let the plants dry out between watering and give them something more ballanced to eat.
 
That bat poo is a little under ballanced and quite heavy on N, canna likes a n-p-k more like 3-1-2 in veg or something balanced like 1-1-1 will work at a push.
If it's on 2 plants, I would raise your lights a couple of inches, let the plants dry out between watering and give them something more ballanced to eat.
Back to basics bro these are things I would or wouldn't implement in the garden but I'm reading too much and second guessing myself. I should know better. Thanks a lot
 
my advice for you is to pH adjust every fluid to hit your soil to 6.3 pH. Also, please read my watering guide so you can learn about the importance of establishing a wet/dry cycle with your plants... you are watering too often and according to a schedule, instead of listening to what your plants actually need. Your fear of saturating your soil is unfounded and contributing to the problem. The links to both of my watering guides are down below in my signature lines.
 
Right on I'll give it a look. Had some damping off issues on some seedlings but it sounds like that's not a real concern for plants this size. Thanks for the link!
Dampening off is almost always caused by improper watering and leaving the soil moist most of the time where the trunk comes out of the soil and meets the air, which creates the perfect conditions for the bacteria that cause the damage to form and thrive. Dry out the soil properly between waterings and dampening off can not happen.
 
Emilya,
Fantastic. There's no sub for experience and trial and error. Easy to digest info is always the best. Thank you for the time and effort for us newbies and for noticing my concerns with watering.
So now my question to you is because I fell in the tomato farmer bigger is better category.lol AMERICA
these clones are 10 days in on these pots would you advise to keep on trucking with the pots they're in( 2 are 7 gallon 1 in a 5 gal) other 3 are in 2 gall so I'm good there, or transplant back down to a 1or 2gal? Have a pretty good understanding of shock transplant or otherwise, so I think I could tackle it but is it worth the risk?
PS I have been monitoring water and soil pH for sure nute lock out will slow most if not all plants down. Have been able to keep it at 6.0-6.5 range. Do you think water or pH could cause the 3 leaf and deformed growth??
Thanks again:)
 
Hi Pancho, and welcome to the forum! :welcome:

No, I don't believe that you are doing anything to cause the 3 leaf or any deformations... this is all genetic and mutations are common place these days with all the hybridization going on. You are overthinking this. The chances of you seeing something in your garden that is that unique, is highly unlikely. You are simply seeing normal growth.

Unless you have a lab where you can conduct a soil slurry pH test, in a vacuum, you do not have any idea what your soil pH is. Most people do not understand that the pH in your container of soil is different in different spots and depending on how wet the soil is in that region. There is not much you can do to "monitor" your soil's base pH.. it is preset when the soil is built and you can't easily change it, especially during a grow. The only thing you have control of is the pH of all your incoming fluids, and they should be carefully adjusted to 6.3 each time. If you properly water at 6.3 pH, the soil will take care of things for you and will slowly drift your pH up toward the base pH as the soil dries, just as it was designed to do. When you water at 6.3 pH, you are actually watering in a range of 6.3-6.8 because of the drift.

Transplanting... the whole idea of starting in smaller containers is to constrict the root zone, forcing the plant to build a solid root ball at each stage. Since you cant see through a container of soil, there has to be a better way than just guessing as to the correct time to transplant, and again my method comes to the rescue.

If you are properly watering, you will be saturating the soil and then waiting for the plant to use ALL of that water before you water again. By monitoring this time that it takes to dry out, to the point that there is very little water left in that soil, you can get a very good idea how strong your roots are in that container. Consider that soil as a buffer, that allows you to not have to stand there keeping the roots wet several times an hour with a hose... that container of soil actually lets you water and then walk away from several days at a time. When that buffer dwindles down from a very comfortable 3-5 days between waterings, to needing water every day to day and a half, THAT is the time to transplant to a container 3-5 times as big. Then, with proper watering and a wet/dry cycle, you entice the roots to fill THAT container with a solid rootball. Transplanting at the right time is a science and does not involve any guessing.

Shock during the transplant is another interesting subject. It is totally possible to stick your existing container down into a new container of soil, creating a hole exactly the size as this current rootball. Then, simply slip the plant out of the small container and slide it in the hole, water to merge the soils, and there should be no shock at all... the plant really has nothing to complain about. It used to be common practice, and still is with certain plants, to need to rough up the rootball when transplanting, so as to entice it to burst out in multiple directions in the new soil. Some people slice their rootballs, especially if they are wrapped, knowing that this damage really jump starts a growing process in those roots to recover from the damage. The drawback of this method is several days of stunting before an incredible growth spurt. I have even tried this with cannabis plants, and it works well. "Shock" is vastly overrated in the cannabis world as something important... probably due to all the Auto hype, where they try to market autos as easy to grow because they recommend not transplanting them, to avoid shock. There is so much out there to confuse new growers... but don't worry about shocking your plants with a transplant... it is a myth that it has to be a thing.

So on your clones, figure out what their water usage looks like, and if they are not giving you enough of a buffer, transplant them. But don't guess.... its just bad form.
 
So I've changed my watering habits. Much improvement
Also changes to an organic 3-2-2 feet
Improvement there as well.....

But on the two indica leaning gals I'm still having the "curling up" issue not sure what else to do
wondering if maybe it's just genetics any input would be greatly appreciated
 
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