Delps8
Well-Known Member
Most of the time, it's 14". I ChilLED recommends 12-24 but I plotted some data for the X3 and that looked to be the best HH.Nice that's a beast of a plant for sure!
one thing I have noticed on your chart is there is no distance light to plant but I noticed you was hitting near 1000ppfd @ 300w... My top Cola is quite close to the light and (aaah at this point I realised my math was wrong) I'm getting 800ppfd @ 350w. I used a app on my phone to measure ppfd though so I could be higher then I think or your lights is just more efficient. I have the mars hydro fc-e6500 which touches all the walls of the tent.
"app on my phone" - gacck (clutches chest). I'm not a big fan of software + phone. It's a few paragraphs long (like everything else) If you can calibrate against a known good source (lux meter or PAR meter), then an app can do the trick. My preference, as a programmer of 30+ years of experience who's has tested Photone twice and how has a lux meter and a PAR meter, unless you're sure that your app is correct, I'd go with the Uni-T Bluetooth. It's accurate, regardless of what model phone you have.
Lights vary in efficiency. I get 50µmol or so more from my X3 Growcraft than I do from my Mars SP 3000. That's because of a different spectrum and different diodes and maybe even the driver.
Another difference, and one regarding which I just sent an email to ChilLED customer service — I have a two bar veg light from CHilLED (an "X2") and, in our email conversation, I mentioned that the X2 was giving off a lot more heat than I was getting from the X3 but it was not only more heat, it was more light. At 250 watts, the X3 was 98° - yup, barely warm to the touch. In contrast, the X2 was >110, enough that I had to leave the tent open about ½ down the front to keep temps < 80°. By adding the light bar in the middle, I'll be able to run a lower dimmer setting and generate less heat while keeping the same PPFD.
It is all connected but, if you're getting higher levels of light on your plant, something that's gone sideways in the root zone can impact how well the plant handles light. There was a case of a grower here on 420 who's grow could not handle > 600µmol. He eventually found that the soil at the bottom of his pot had dried and was hydrophobic. That impacted the rest of the grow significantly.But yeah 800 is on the lower side so the foxtail look could just be genetic I'm just mor concerned about the twisting leaves. And I'm sure that when a leaf twists from light stress the whole leaf flips over but in my case it looks like the individual fingers are twisting?
But with all this information this is why I was blaming the roots but the lights was always a thought.
I'm seeing the tips curling a bit and they're light brown. Isn't that classic nute levels too high? I don't know much about nutes, frankly. A question - Fernandez is big on this point - often, a nutrient issue is not due to an overabundance of that chemical but is due to the wrong level of its antagonist. Or something like that, the idea, in my brain anyway, is that it's not too much of thing A it's, too little of Not(thing A).