Thank you all for your help. Hopefully, you can chime in again here....I followed the FF feeding schedule for week 4 of flowering, but now I think I'm seeing nutrient burn on the leaf tips. Is that what these pictures look like to all of you? I need to water them again today, and I'm thinking of just pure ph-ed water at this point.

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I followed the FF feeding schedule for week 4 of flowering, but now I think I'm seeing nutrient burn on the leaf tips. Is that what these pictures look like to all of you? I need to water them again today, and I'm thinking of just pure ph-ed water at this point.
Emilya Green and several others have mentioned in the past that tip burn like that is a sign that the fertilizer program is pretty much spot on. Since the schedule from Fox Farm says to fertilize "up to twice a week" so one feeding in a week is OK. Nothing stopping you from doing 1 dose this week and going back to doing 2 next week.

Also, I went back and looked at the first set of photos and many of the tips of the leaf fingers already were showing the start of tip burn so it is not not something new.

You had mentioned doing a flushing in the first msg so maybe time to do it now and then another 2 weeks before harvest. No need to buy the additive from Fox Farm. Just use enough water to be 3 times the amount of soil in the pots. And some of the group might have suggestions for a replacement additive if you are interested.
 
Emilya Green and several others have mentioned in the past that tip burn like that is a sign that the fertilizer program is pretty much spot on. Since the schedule from Fox Farm says to fertilize "up to twice a week" so one feeding in a week is OK. Nothing stopping you from doing 1 dose this week and going back to doing 2 next week.

Also, I went back and looked at the first set of photos and many of the tips of the leaf fingers already were showing the start of tip burn so it is not not something new.

You had mentioned doing a flushing in the first msg so maybe time to do it now and then another 2 weeks before harvest. No need to buy the additive from Fox Farm. Just use enough water to be 3 times the amount of soil in the pots. And some of the group might have suggestions for a replacement additive if you are interested.
Thanks SmokingWings, it's good to know I'm not overfeeding. I took your advice and did a flush 3 days ago. I fertilized immediately after the flush. The soil was saturated with water, so I couldn't add as much of the fertilized water as I wanted to without the saucers overflowing with runoff, but I saved the rest of the fertilized water and fed them again the next day. They seem to be doing well! They're definitely filling out quickly! Attached are some updated pics from yesterday.

I'm now trying to determine if they're getting close to harvest, based on my stereomicroscope images. I will share them soon and see what you all think.

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Long time toker, first time grower. My state just legalized home growing in August 2023, so I took full advantage! Unfortunately, I’m a newbie, so I am having some issues and could really use some expert opinions on what is going on.

The pictures I have posted are very recent. I switched to 12/12 lighting 4-1/2 weeks ago. I’ve given as much information as I can, but if you just want to get to the issues and questions, that is bolded at the end of this post.

Strain: Fatso OG (started with rooted clones)

Setup:
Gavita Pro 1700e LED
Gavita UVR LED (UV-A supplemental light) (x3)
3-gallon black fabric grow pots (x4)
Vegetronix Moisture Sensors
Medium: Fox Farm Ocean Forest
Water: Reverse Osmosis remineralized with Organic Cal-Mag by TPS Nutrients (my tap water is awful, so this is necessary)
Vegetative Fertilizer used after ~1 month in the Ocean Forest: Fox Farm Grow Big
Flower Fertilizer used: Fox Farm Tiger Bloom
pH Meter: PINPOINT by American Marine Inc. calibrated before each use with Biopharm reference solutions
pH adjustments with pure, food-grade sodium bicarbonate and citric acid
TDS Meter: Extech EC400 ExStik calibrated before each used with Biopharm conductivity standards
Lasko 16”, 3-speed oscillating fans (x2)
Sealed grow room
Hygrostat controlling dehumidifier and humidifier
Thermostat controlling air conditioner and oil heater
CO2 meter and dosing system
Mylar reflective coverings on all walls

Books I’ve been referencing:
The Cannabis Grow Bible, 3rd Edition
7 Steps to Grow Cannabis

Growing techniques:
-I started the clones in 1-gallon fabric pots and transplanted them once they approximately doubled in size
-Mainlining: Once the clones grew out to 6 nodes, I topped them to the 3rd node and removed the 1st and 2nd nodes. Then, once the two remaining branches grew out to 4 nodes, I topped each down to the 3rd node and removed the 2nd node. I kept lightly training them with plant ties to attempt to get all 8 shoots to a similar height.
-The day I switched to 12/12, I pruned all growth on the bottom third of the plants.
-I maintain CO2 levels at approximately 1400 ppm throughout the entire grow.
-When the plants were young, I kept the light 36” from the canopy. Once they were well established in the veg stage, I kept the light 24” from the canopy and have maintained that since.
-I used a lux meter and followed this guide for light intensities for the different stages (I’m currently at 100% light setting on the Gavita controller): Choosing LED VS HPS Lights - 4trees Cannabis Building
-I started the supplemental UVA lights once the plants were well into the vegetative stage
-I water every 2-3 days after the soil has mostly dried out but just before the plants start wilting. I overfed early on, but now I am being much more conservative and only feed every other watering.

What I know I’ve done wrong and have been trying to correct:
  • When I started, I had a cheap TDS meter from Amazon that was giving me bad readings. This led me to add way too much cal-mag to the water (this became obvious when I purchased the Extech TDS meter and calibrated it) for much of the vegetative stage.
  • I also mistook the early signs of nutrient burn as what I thought were nutrient deficiencies, so I kept adding more fertilizer and overfeeding through much of the vegetative stage. Once it finally became obvious that what I was seeing was actually burn, I started cutting way back on nutes.
Recent Feedwater/Runoff numbers:
DateWater pHWater TDS (ppm)Runoff pHRunoff TDS (ppm)
9/14/20235.7811476.252025
9/17/20235.971896.71147
9/21/20235.929086.541850
9/24/20235.912726.941191
9/26/20235.872697.021197
9/29/20235.7310776.572075
10/2/20235.8312886.531768

Concerns:
-Leaf discoloring:
my biggest concern is the discoloration that is continuing to get worse. It started as purpling on leaves closer to the top of the canopy (not all leaves). The purpling started at the edges of the leaves and moved its way in. Now, as it’s getting worse, some of the leaves are turning red. My searches online and through my books don’t seem to give a good answer for purpling at the edges of the leaves, so I’m pretty confused.

-Runoff ppm: My runoff ppm lately is coming out higher than the water I’m adding to them. From what I can tell from my research, there may be a buildup of salt in the soil, which would make sense, since I know I was adding too much cal-mag early on.



Questions:
-What is this discoloring telling you?
I’m new to this, and I’m worried I’m still either overfeeding or underfeeding. I’m just not sure which. Or could it be from salt buildup in the soil?

-Should I flush the soil with pure water to remove salts, or will that disturb the plants since they are so far into flowering (but obviously not done—I believe they need 3-4 more weeks from what I’ve read)? Or should I just let them ride it out at this point and only flush at the end, right before harvest?

-Should I trim “problem” leaves?
During the veg stage, I would trim off any leaves that were heavily discolored so the plant could focus energy on new, healthy growth, but do you all do that in the flowering stage too? Or do you just leave them until harvest, regardless of discoloring?

-For the next grow, should I plant in 5-gallon pots instead of the 3-gallon pots this time?

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You're way overfeeding your plants and Fox Farm tiger bloom is way to low in nitrogen for running plants in flower in containers. Not enough Ca/Mg and not a complete plant food.

Buy a complete plant food that you can use from start to finish. Veg and Bloom nutrients is a result of marketing. Something like GH, Dyna Gro, Canna, Jacks, Mega Crop, Floraflex to name a few better and cheaper alternatives than Fox Farm.

Cheers!
 
Emilya Green and several others have mentioned in the past that tip burn like that is a sign that the fertilizer program is pretty much spot on. Since the schedule from Fox Farm says to fertilize "up to twice a week" so one feeding in a week is OK. Nothing stopping you from doing 1 dose this week and going back to doing 2 next week.

Also, I went back and looked at the first set of photos and many of the tips of the leaf fingers already were showing the start of tip burn so it is not not something new.

You had mentioned doing a flushing in the first msg so maybe time to do it now and then another 2 weeks before harvest. No need to buy the additive from Fox Farm. Just use enough water to be 3 times the amount of soil in the pots. And some of the group might have suggestions for a replacement additive if you are interested.
He's dialing in nutrient strength by tds/ppm measure so why would he look at the back of the bottles? The main problem is he's feeding the plant to much food in a sub par mineral ratio causing lockouts and nute burns.

Tip burn is typically a sign of stress and nutrient excess. Emilya's results leaves more to be wished for and she's not a good reference or benchmark for plant health IMO.


Cheers!
 
You're way overfeeding your plants and Fox Farm tiger bloom is way to low in nitrogen for running plants in flower in containers. Not enough Ca/Mg and not a complete plant food.

Buy a complete plant food that you can use from start to finish. Veg and Bloom nutrients is a result of marketing. Something like GH, Dyna Gro, Canna, Jacks, Mega Crop, Floraflex to name a few better and cheaper alternatives than Fox Farm.

Cheers!
Thanks for posting, Wastei. I appreciate your different perspectives on this. I'll be interested to hear what the others say about your responses.

It certainly was all a bit confusing for me seeing both light green/yellow leaves (which I thought were deficiencies) at the same time as leaf tip burn (which I thought were signs of overfeeding).
 
I took my first stereomicroscope images last night to start tracking the cloudiness/color of the trichomes. From what I've read, they should go from clear to cloudy once they've filled up with cannabinoids, and then they start to turn amber when certain cannabinoids degrade to different products. It seems I want to harvest after all trichomes are cloudy and some are amber? Any different views on this?

Well, it kind of seems that's what I'm seeing. My strain is Fatso OG, and I've read mixed results online about flowering times. Some say 7-8 weeks and some say 8-10 weeks. Also, when I look up generic flowering times for cannabis, in general, I'm seeing 7-9 weeks. Yet, this coming Saturday I will have JUST hit 6 weeks since turning the light to 12/12 (i.e. going into the start of the 7th week).

I sorted the pictures below by plant. All the pics are of sugar leaves near the top of the bud peaks, and for each plant, I took clippings from prominent (best) buds closest to the light as well as peripheral buds further from the light to try to get a full picture of the situation.

Plant 1:
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Plant 2:
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Plant 3:
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I hit the max pictures for one post, so here are the remaining. Btw, I have many more if these aren't conclusive enough, I just didn't want to inundate this blog with too many pics.

Plant 3 continued:
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Plant 4:
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Thanks to Sueet, I realized I needed to take pics of the calyx instead of the sugar leaf. Below are the calyx pics I took last night. Plants 1-4 are the indoor plants I've been referring to in this thread. From what I understand, I think they are still not quite ready for harvest, but I'd love any feedback about this.

Plant #5 is my one outdoor plant (haven't talked about it yet in this thread). I think plant #5 might be ready for harvest. Anyone agree/disagree?

Plant #1:
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Plant #2:
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Plant #3:
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Plant #4:
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Plant #5 (outdoor plant):
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Hi all,
I'm getting a bit nervous/confused about when to harvest. I'm at 10 weeks since switching to 12/12, but the trichromes don't really have any amber, yet all the leaves are turning yellow/brown and drying up. Any thoughts?

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The good news is you have waited for the majority of the pistils to shrink up indicating the end of the first wave of pistils. Now the calyxes have swollen and popped pistils around them, while newer calyxes are filling in the gaps. It’s spiral city up in there.

another indicator are the surrounding fan leaves, each plant is sucking those stored nutrients out of the fans to fatten and ripen those colas. Based on the green lower fans she still has plenty of juice in the tank.

she could run another week or three easy but I think you are itching to get sticky fingers…am I right?

personally I’d consider

1) staggered harvest, take out the biggest and tallest colas right now and give the underlings a little room to spread out and a little more time.

2) maybe pull 1 or 2 whole plants…

Don’t get in a rush either those plants can hang right there for 2 to 4 more weeks just waiting to catch some pollen.

My hat is off to you!!! It’s a really fantastic job you’ve done here Fairly Sterile, each one looks amazeballs for sure!!!! Totally cool fall colors too, just wow!!!

yup I’d hit that…
 
I'm getting a bit nervous/confused about when to harvest. I'm at 10 weeks since switching to 12/12, but the trichromes don't really have any amber, yet all the leaves are turning yellow/brown and drying up. Any thoughts?
Nothing to get nervous about.

From what I can see the trichromes are cloudy and there is some amber showing. It kinda depends on what you are going for. Some want a lot of the amber hoping for more of a couch lock effect and some want a more energetic buzz.

@013 has some good suggestions. Maybe try one of them for a staggered harvest. Harvest, trim, dry and don't forget the cure. Then when the rest of the plant is ready harvest that part and then the trim, dry and cure. That will give you something to compare. Fine tune the next grow--actually I think that a lot of us are always fine tuning when and how to harvest.
 
Tip burn is typically a sign of stress and nutrient excess

I agree with this. The only time I get tip burn is when I’ve used too much Ca at once.
 
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