Some Advice, Pretty Please? AK47 & Jack

Dry those plants out as much as possible and hope for the best. If root rot hasn’t set in then there is hope for them, but it’s looking rough. Personally I’d be looking around for more seeds though for the next run just in case. Non -autos IMO.

Edit. Some of the growth looks like it has a spark or two left in it. The second photo looks good. Probably could be left as is for a while and see if growth starts to take off

If the soil seems ‘just a little damp’ then it doesn’t need to be watered.
Do have some more seeds in the mail...
 
No worries at all Grateful. I am the reining champ of killing: shit, beans, seedlings, clones, even whole plants. If it’s a green plant or supposed to grow into one - then I can kill it. That’s the truth buuut after finding 420 I’m not killing a fraction of what I once was. Chin up dude, no shame in learning and even if these all croak, we will help you get rebooted.

BTW’s your roots didn’t look bad at all but let’s hope they get hooked up with the soil properly. Maybe consider moving to where is warmer, try to keep them at least 75 degrees even if you have to move them to a temporary location
 
Your soil is likely the culprit. Something is off with it. The roots look ok and the soil watering looks ok just not growing very well.

Get some decent soil and amend it with EWC and Kelp meal.
 
Great info - been adjusting water to 6.5 as of late. Nute line is for cannabis - from the Netherlands. I’ll do your tek to a couple plants in a day or so (if they make it that long). Thanks for taking the time.
No worries at all Grateful. I am the reining champ of killing: shit, beans, seedlings, clones, even whole plants. If it’s a green plant or supposed to grow into one - then I can kill it. That’s the truth buuut after finding 420 I’m not killing a fraction of what I once was. Chin up dude, no shame in learning and even if these all croak, we will help you get rebooted.

BTW’s your roots didn’t look bad at all but let’s hope they get hooked up with the soil properly. Maybe consider moving to where is warmer, try to keep them at least 75 degrees even if you have to move them to a temporary locati
 
So, the transplanted one looks happier. What’s with the turning up leaves on some of the others? Looked up the issue and found some conflicting information...
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If by turning up- you’re talking about the bottom leaf as in the last pic? It looks a bit fried probably from the soil being too rich. But that hardly matters at this point. It’s the new growth that should be focused on. That looks like it could recover.

I think at this point your number one problem is that they are autos
 
If by turning up- you’re talking about the bottom leaf as in the last pic? It looks a bit fried probably from the soil being too rich. But that hardly matters at this point. It’s the new growth that should be focused on. That looks like it could recover.

I think at this point your number one problem is that they are autos
Yeah, I am viewing this one as a learning expedition.... I wish I could find a good soil solution that wasn’t one of the premade expensive mixes for the next go around.I would go for Coco and perlite (cheap and easy) but I feel I don’t know enough about nutrients to do so. The black gold was cited by a couple growers is being pretty good. So I’m not sure if it was too rich or if it was really just the overwatering.
 
Usually crisping leaves is overfeeding, but overwatering might have made the issues worse who knows.

I’d like think a widely used soil mix like that wouldn't be too insanely far off base. I’ve heard other people mention using it. Some mixes are too rich and seedlings struggle but then usually always grow through it unless the soil is absolute crap. Which in this case I don’t think is true.

I suspect that if you did it all over, didn’t overwater, using a lighter mix for the seedling stage and then transplanting into your black gold later, and didn’t use autos, you would be fine

Unfortunately growing autos means you don’t have the luxury of making any mistakes, whereas with photos you can grow the same plant basically forever and keep cloning it. I’m still growing a plant I sprouted over five years ago and have put through every possible torture.

Coco is easy, I guess, but it opens up other issues like having to feed and water a lot more often, and to always have to check the ph.

I think a decent simple organic soil mix is probably the easiest way to grow a plant.
 
Usually crisping leaves is overfeeding, but overwatering might have made the issues worse who knows.

I’d like think a widely used soil mix like that wouldn't be too insanely far off base. I’ve heard other people mention using it. Some mixes are too rich and seedlings struggle but then usually always grow through it unless the soil is absolute crap. Which in this case I don’t think is true.

I suspect that if you did it all over, didn’t overwater, using a lighter mix for the seedling stage and then transplanting into your black gold later, and didn’t use autos, you would be fine

Unfortunately growing autos means you don’t have the luxury of making any mistakes, whereas with photos you can grow the same plant basically forever and keep cloning it. I’m still growing a plant I sprouted over five years ago and have put through every possible torture.

Coco is easy, I guess, but it opens up other issues like having to feed and water a lot more often, and to always have to check the ph.

I think a decent simple organic soil mix is probably the easiest way to grow a plant.
Great Points about the autos. I chose them because, ironically, I thought they be a little more straightforward and but primarily because I live in Arizona, I am going to need to grow autos even outdoors because of the temperatures in the summer. So that is why my focus is there. I have room inside to grow a couple photos but that is it.... I guess I’ll need to try a different soil mix and be much more careful with watering next time. I thought that black gold, being organic and widely available could be an option. Autos don’t like to be transplanted so I’d like to pretty much go from start to finish in the same soil.
 
Yeah being able to make the outdoor season work here is the only reason I could think of to grow one. But since I have the indoor grow, I have no need.

Bobrown and Celt are soil guys. I can’t say much about your BG soil that isn’t just guessing. But dope can grow in a lot of conditions and if that soil is as popular as it is, chances are it’s not completely deadly to the plants- maybe just a bit hot for seedlings.
 
Just tuned in. Looks like overwatering is the problem. If overwatering doesn't kill the seedling then it can take a week or more to get back on track. There's no quick fix. Growing cannabis doesn't have to be difficult but I find many overthink the process by throwing all kinds of products to try and produce extraordinary bud. That's fine after one gets the hang of growing weed. For a first grow I would suggest doing basic gardening.

I start my seeds in 2" plastic pots under flourescent lights. They don't need much light to start with. With a 2" pot the dampness of the soil is more easily managed. I never use paper pots for the same reason expressed by others. I always pick up pots before watering to judge if they need watering and if they do, then how much to water. When I sow the seeds I water the soil completely but don't allow the pot to sit in a saucer of water. That is, if water ran through the soil and collected in the saucer then whatever doesn't get absorbed gets discarded. One may not realize that roots need air or they will suffocate. That first soaking is like soaking the seed. The seed may take 4 or more days to pop up out of the soil. During that time I probably haven't had to water. If the soil did dry out some the weight of the pot tells me so. Then I water by directing a bead of water around the rim of the pot. That way the soil where the seed is located and later the seedling will absorb the water without getting waterlogged (no air). After the seedling has 2-3 pairs of true leaves then I repot to a larger sized pot. Underwatering cannabis is way better than overwatering. Doing the right amount of watering is the key and that is accomplished by picking up the pot daily. You get to know how damp the soil is and in time quite accurately. Looking at the soil and thinking it needs or doesn't need watering is guessing. You can think it needs water because the surface is dry but when you pick it up you discover it's heavy. Watering will surely waterlog. Sometimes the opposite is true. You don't think it needs watering but discover it's as light as a feather and needs a good saturation. My best advice is to pick up the pot each day.

Any decent potting soil should work fine as long as it has sufficient perlite for aeration. The soil should be pressed down lightly allowing it to remain a little airy. Air for the roots. When the soil gets depleted of nutrients the plant will let you know. A sure sign is a lightening in color and even yellowing if left to continue. When growers are micro-managing with this product and that product then diagnosis becomes way more complicated. Is it too much this or that or a deficiency of this or that? Until one gets a handle on the basics then I recommend keeping it simple. A decent soil, proper temps, watering when required and the right amount of light.

I've never grown auto; only regular seeds. I like to buy a variety once and allow it to produce seeds so I can have a supply and not be too concerned about losing a plant. Having a seed bank allows one to experiment without costing $'s.

I don't concern myself with ph except when I clone. My water is from a well and around 7 neutral and I don't alter the ph. Most potting soil should have a ph suitable for cannabis.

Temperature is important for root development. Not too cold and not too hot. That's true for seeds and for clones. My seeds are sown in a room with day temps around 20C and nights around 15C.

As for lighting, like I mentioned earlier the seeds don't need a lot of light at the beginning. After they put out true leaves lighting should be increased. How much is a judgement call. I was taught many years ago you should have 100 Watts per plant. So a 400 watt will do 4 plants. This, I'm sure is a point open for discussion but it's a good rule of thumb IMO.

I hope this isn't too boring and I hope your plants perk up. Rest assured anyone who's ever gotten their hands dirty gardening has lost their fair share of plants. I know I have. I've been learning for well over 40 years and still learn all the time. Sometimes we love our plants to death. Cheers.
 
This is all good advice, and I'm piecing it together. I am now a bit paranoid about soil, and perhaps I don't need to be. Question for you - you say any decent soil - ok, but how do you judge what to add in terms of nutes? What do you use? What soil do you use for your grows? I am just wondering if I've gone down the rabbit hole of over thinking and I just need to start again being most careful not to overwater. I don't think these ladies are going to make it much further, but I'm learning....
 
Yea, they don't look good but, as long as there's life then there's a chance they'll recover. Being autos you're working against the clock. So, I would only concern myself with what you can do. Disturbing a plants roots can send them into shock for a short period of time. Doing so with an ailing plant could be a death blow so I wouldn't repot until they become healthy. I would monitor the soil's moisture content by trying to determine if they have sufficient water. The weight of the pot should indicate how much moisture there is. Then, trying to determine how much roots there are and if they only occupy a tiny portion of the pot. If the roots are only in a small part of the pot then the remaining soil may be soaked and the area where the roots are may be dry. That would be good to know. You would want to let the wet areas dry out while sparingly watering the roots. That'll be tricky but quite possible. From what you've posted and said it sounds like they dried out so if that's the case then providing the right amount of water in the right place should be easier. The plants are probably not taking up much water so they should be moved back from the lights to reduce the burden of trying to keep up with them. Kinda like a having a patient in a bright room but out of direct sunlight until they recover. So, I would reduce the light and let them sip water. Another thing is air circulation. Because they're ailing their resistance to things like mold and mildew would be compromised so I would keep that in mind. I wouldn't point a fan at them but I would want to make sure there is fresh air.

Regarding soil: I'm presently using a soil called Kryptonite which is sold here in Canada. It's specially made for cannabis and so far appears to be really good. It's the first time I've used it for cannabis but I've used it for tomatoes, peppers, etc. and really like it. In the past I mixed my own soils from peat based soils. I added blood meal(nitrogen), bone meal(phosphorus), bat quano, wood ashes, something from the sea like kelp meal, worm castings. I believe I explain the mix a little better in one of my grow journals. You don't need to be paranoid about soils and overthinking is natural. My guess would be that the soil you're using is just fine and you don't have to think about adding anything. The soil that I mix will last the entire grow without adding anything else. I expect the Kryptonite will provide everything for the entire grow without adding anything.
 
Yea, they don't look good but, as long as there's life then there's a chance they'll recover. Being autos you're working against the clock. So, I would only concern myself with what you can do. Disturbing a plants roots can send them into shock for a short period of time. Doing so with an ailing plant could be a death blow so I wouldn't repot until they become healthy. I would monitor the soil's moisture content by trying to determine if they have sufficient water. The weight of the pot should indicate how much moisture there is. Then, trying to determine how much roots there are and if they only occupy a tiny portion of the pot. If the roots are only in a small part of the pot then the remaining soil may be soaked and the area where the roots are may be dry. That would be good to know. You would want to let the wet areas dry out while sparingly watering the roots. That'll be tricky but quite possible. From what you've posted and said it sounds like they dried out so if that's the case then providing the right amount of water in the right place should be easier. The plants are probably not taking up much water so they should be moved back from the lights to reduce the burden of trying to keep up with them. Kinda like a having a patient in a bright room but out of direct sunlight until they recover. So, I would reduce the light and let them sip water. Another thing is air circulation. Because they're ailing their resistance to things like mold and mildew would be compromised so I would keep that in mind. I wouldn't point a fan at them but I would want to make sure there is fresh air.

Regarding soil: I'm presently using a soil called Kryptonite which is sold here in Canada. It's specially made for cannabis and so far appears to be really good. It's the first time I've used it for cannabis but I've used it for tomatoes, peppers, etc. and really like it. In the past I mixed my own soils from peat based soils. I added blood meal(nitrogen), bone meal(phosphorus), bat quano, wood ashes, something from the sea like kelp meal, worm castings. I believe I explain the mix a little better in one of my grow journals. You don't need to be paranoid about soils and overthinking is natural. My guess would be that the soil you're using is just fine and you don't have to think about adding anything. The soil that I mix will last the entire grow without adding anything else. I expect the Kryptonite will provide everything for the entire grow without adding anything.
You can see some shots of the roots above in the thread.
 
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