OMGReptar
Well-Known Member
Hey everyone! My seedlings are currently on day 4. So far I’ve just been keeping the top soil moist with tap water. Should I start to pH balance the water and what would be a proper pH for Happy Frog soil?
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Oh dang! Thanks for letting me know, I wish I would have asked before I purchased the pH control kit from General Hydroponics lol. How come the soil doesn’t need the pH balancing? Also, I got the Fox Farm big bloom, grow big, and tiger bloom. Are those ok to use later on?Happy frog is fine just water tap will do fine ph is not needed in soil only hydro set ups and coco.Happy frog is all I use just for that reason it is perfect out the bag.
When I transplant these into 5 gallon, I do plan to use Ocean Forest. I just heard that Happy Grog was better for seedlings. So do I keep watering just the top soil now or when is it best to start a full watering?They will sell you anything even if it's for hydro only lol. Happy frog is specially made for growing cannabis it has ph buffers and all the good stuff like beneficial fungus and microbes and other elements like humic acid in my honest opinion it is the best you can get it is idiot proof in my book.
Happy frog is fine just water tap will do fine ph is not needed in soil only hydro set ups and coco.Happy frog is all I use just for that reason it is perfect out the bag.
I call BS @bobrown14I can kill my plants with tap water with a pH of 10 no problem only takes 3 weeks. I'm in soil.
Test your water pH its important even in soil.
Anything between 5-7.5pH will work.
Tap water with chlorine in it will kill seedlings as well. Let water sit out in a container overnight and then pH test.
Thanks Emilya, can you please tell me if the Fox Farm (tiger bloom, grow big, big bloom) are considered “synthetic?”Bob, you are putting out misinformation. Chlorine WILL NOT kill seedlings. Tap water is just fine. Stop trying to scare the new folks.
The only reason we pH adjust our water is so that artificially chelated nutrients can break apart as they are designed to do, within the proper pH range. If you are not running chelated (synthetic) nutes, or havent gotten to them yet, there is absolutely no need to adjust pH of your incoming fluids.
Yes, the grow big and the tiger bloom are edta chelated, the big bloom is actually an organically safe, natural product. When you use these three in combination as per the feeding chart, and especially if you also throw in the three solubles, you are conducting a synthetic grow. Salts will build up as the nutes break apart in the soil, those salts being the EDTA itself that binds them together in the bottle, hence the strong recommendations to do a flush every couple of weeks in a Fox Farm grow.Thanks Emilya, can you please tell me if the Fox Farm (tiger bloom, grow big, big bloom) are considered “synthetic?”
There is no way your tap has a ph of 10 that's way to high.Science baby
sorry, but this is not correct. When you water to saturation, that column of water/soil has a pH exactly the same as the fluid you just watered with... the molecular weight of the water compared to the soil overrides everything else... the container has no choice but to assume that pH of the incoming fluid. It is imperative that your fluids come in at the lower part of the soil range of 6.2-6.8 and then the higher base pH of the soil with its buffers forces your fluid/soil suspension to start drifting upwards through the entire useable range. When your soil has dried out, from the top down, the soil assumes its base pH, at the top end of the soil pH range. There is a reason that all of the advice and all of the publications don't just say to adjust to a specific number, although there are those who do actually profess that you must always water at 6.5 pH. The goal is to move your container THROUGH the ENTIRE pH range, with every watering... not shoot for some specific number that favors one set of nutrients over the others.The above chart is the range of PH nutrients work in soil so in essence it is the soil PH which needs to be balanced & not the liquid feed.
sorry, but this is not correct. When you water to saturation, that column of water/soil has a pH exactly the same as the fluid you just watered with... the molecular weight of the water compared to the soil overrides everything else... the container has no choice but to assume that pH of the incoming fluid. It is imperative that your fluids come in at the lower part of the soil range of 6.2-6.8 and then the higher base pH of the soil with its buffers forces your fluid/soil suspension to start drifting upwards through the entire useable range. When your soil has dried out, from the top down, the soil assumes its base pH, at the top end of the soil pH range. There is a reason that all of the advice and all of the publications don't just say to adjust to a specific number, although there are those who do actually profess that you must always water at 6.5 pH. The goal is to move your container THROUGH the ENTIRE pH range, with every watering... not shoot for some specific number that favors one set of nutrients over the others.
Your chart shows you the mobility of chelated nutrients in that soil/water mix. Some nutrients are more mobile at the lower parts of the range and some at the higher.... and by allowing drift to happen, each element is picked up in its turn as it becomes the most mobile.