1000 HPS troubleshooting

[Bigjake8]

This light just quit on me bulb was 15 months old came down one morning and no light got a new bulb needed anyway and put in nothing but the ballast would get warm so I loaned my tester to someone and can't remember who or I left it in a truck I sold so I ordered a new ignitor exact same one that's in it and changed it out and now I have a lazer light show in the center tube so I was hoping somebody that has been down this road before could save me going and buying s meter

 

[TorturedSoul]

Ignitor? Traditional Core & Coil (aka "magnetic") ballast, I take it? They're generally pretty simple, with only a few components.

Any way to test the replacement ignitor to make sure it is functioning properly/100%? Double-check that it is the correct one for your ballast.

Any way to test the capacitor to see whether or not it is partially failed and not outputting full voltage? (I'd expect the thing to be enlarged if it has completely failed.)

ALL cords in good shape, and all connectors fully seated? All internal wiring in good shape and connected securely? If multi-voltage (either externally, via a switch, or internally, via wiring that can be connected differently), is there any chance that you accidentally set it up for the next-higher voltage when hooking things back up? If this is one of the C&C ballasts that could run either HPS or MH bulbs by changing the position of an external switch, might you have inadvertently bumped the switch to the "MH" setting?

If everything else checks out, it could be that the new bulb is faulty (gas leaked out or something, lol, IDK); unlikely, but not impossible.

 

[Bigjake8]

Thanks ts I found a link you shared awhile back can't remember where if found it now but yea it's magnetic switchable and the switch is even good I went got a cheap meter and checked the cap it's not swollen or any thing and (I'm not a electrical guy ) but I put the meter on 2000k and get a reading of 747 and on the cap it say 750 so it's close so the I get the bright idea of checking the output at the ballast and fry my new meter I think so now I'm gonna tear the fixture apart cause that got me thinking it could be in the cord to the bulb itself because it had enough power to fry the meter maybe that's what fried the ignitor idk I did try old bulb and same thing I put the new one back in the box until I get this fingered out
I ain't scared I'm used to shit that can't happen happens to me luckily I didn't flip them yet so I got all my shop lights hanging in there to keep them alive

 

[Purpsmagurps]

hey. lm51c's are calling your name, unless you need the hps for heat.
just cropped 2# under 1kw. no ac, no co2

 

[Bigjake8]

I'd love to upgrade but to poor right now hoping santa might hook me up this year

 

[Icemann420]

Haha Santa. Hook me up also.

 

[Bigjake8]

Update

It ended up being the capacitor to now that I think about it that last run was short yield wise I kept hearing the voices in my head saying that bulb don't look as bright but I'm past a year on it and the old you got to replace your bulbs every year was saying that's why but I bet that cap was going bad and I just didn't know what to look for

Now IMPORTANT ATTENTION
When you go to test your output on the ballast unhook the ignitor I didn't know that and that's why I fried my meter I hope I can save one meter with that information

Now when your bulb looks like this the ignitor is still good but cap is bad