Cal mag?

Santurro99

New Member
Just wondering what I would need to use cal mag for? I think i may have either a calcium def or mag def? In FF soil week 4 12/12. Leaves have developed what appears to be rust spots all over the leaves. Thanks
 
Just wondering what I would need to use cal mag for? I think i may have either a calcium def or mag def? In FF soil week 4 12/12. Leaves have developed what appears to be rust spots all over the leaves. Thanks
rust explained.

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rust, how many of you have had this and been beaten by it? lots i bet!!!
first, rust is a fungi. it is opportunist. it preys on unwell plants. if something is a miss, rust is a sign. rust has been identified to have 7,000 species. it attacks crops of every description. but we're only interested in one variety arn't we?
if rust is present early in a grow, you have problems as it's an indicator something in your room is a miss. usually ventilation. go through your system and double check things are in place and working properly.
rust is an air borne fungi. if given the opportunity, it WILL take hold. it usually does during flower as this is when the plants immune system is at its weakest as its energies are concentrating on re-production, not survival.
depending on what part of the grow you get it, you can cure/minimize it with either chemical or natural remedies.
it enters the leaf via the stomata and then it's off and running.
fungacides used are generally copper based and include; thriram, manzecob, maneb or zineb at 10 day intervills.
organic;
baking soda, 1 tea spoon/ quart of water. spray on.
copper sulphate, read lables.
fungacidal soap sprays;
garlic sprays, 1/2 cup minced garlic, 1 quart of water. let sit 24hrs, strain, spray.
sulphur, one of the best natural sprays. it is low in toxicity.
micro kill, a citric based killer. i use this with great success.
 
rust explained.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

rust, how many of you have had this and been beaten by it? lots i bet!!!
first, rust is a fungi. it is opportunist. it preys on unwell plants. if something is a miss, rust is a sign. rust has been identified to have 7,000 species. it attacks crops of every description. but we're only interested in one variety arn't we?
if rust is present early in a grow, you have problems as it's an indicator something in your room is a miss. usually ventilation. go through your system and double check things are in place and working properly.
rust is an air borne fungi. if given the opportunity, it WILL take hold. it usually does during flower as this is when the plants immune system is at its weakest as its energies are concentrating on re-production, not survival.
depending on what part of the grow you get it, you can cure/minimize it with either chemical or natural remedies.
it enters the leaf via the stomata and then it's off and running.
fungacides used are generally copper based and include; thriram, manzecob, maneb or zineb at 10 day intervills.
organic;
baking soda, 1 tea spoon/ quart of water. spray on.
copper sulphate, read lables.
fungacidal soap sprays;
garlic sprays, 1/2 cup minced garlic, 1 quart of water. let sit 24hrs, strain, spray.
sulphur, one of the best natural sprays. it is low in toxicity.
micro kill, a citric based killer. i use this with great success.

Are u joking? OP has not posted pics but I HIGHLY DOUBT he has the type of rust you are describing above. Most rust spots occur due to Mg deficiencies.

Now to answer OP's question. What you are most likely experiencing (Mg deficiency very common) is an Mg deficiency due to too much K. I have seen people time and time again overdose their plants and Mg def is one of the typical signs you see from too much K+ cation. Keep in mind that you want a proper balance of the three major cations, K+, Mg++, Ca++, as they will compete with each other. This balance depends on many factors including genetics and strain, and you will only ascertain the balance better through trial and error.

Another thing to consider about Cal-Mag is your tap water. Depending on if you have RO water, or soft water will determine how much if any Cal-Mag you should be using.

Hope this helps. You should post pics next time if you want a 100% clear diagnosis.
 
Thanks both of you for your help. After doing some research I really think it is a mg def. Only 1 has symptoms and they appeared a couple of days after I fed with all 3 foxfarm nutes, BB GB TB as described on the feeding schedule. I tried to post some pics but i am computer challenged, I think they ended up in the photo gallery. My question is...should i water with cal mag until symptoms disappear or is there another way. I heard about using epsom salt??? Is epsom salt and cal mag used for the same deficiencies? Should I flush right away? I am using foxfarm soil and 4 weeks into 12/12. Thanks again...
 
Thanks both of you for your help. After doing some research I really think it is a mg def. Only 1 has symptoms and they appeared a couple of days after I fed with all 3 foxfarm nutes, BB GB TB as described on the feeding schedule. I tried to post some pics but i am computer challenged, I think they ended up in the photo gallery. My question is...should i water with cal mag until symptoms disappear or is there another way. I heard about using epsom salt??? Is epsom salt and cal mag used for the same deficiencies? Should I flush right away? I am using foxfarm soil and 4 weeks into 12/12. Thanks again...
You should flush them immediately and feed them with a lower nutrient regiment. This is hydro I am assuming? What regiment are you exactly feeding them and how much water?
 
I am using foxfarm ocean forest soil

What you are describing to me is the potting soil. Is this all you have used so far? Because in your previous post you mentioned "I fed with all 3 foxfarm nutes, BB GB TB as described on the feeding schedule". IDK what BB GB and TB mean. (Sorry I am a hydroman....)Do any of your liquid supplements contain magnesium?
 
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