Good Nutrient Combinations

(Probably just dated myself - does anyone else remember garanimals?!)
Oh oh I bought them for my kids Talk about dating!
 
i have the flora 3 part seris that came with my GH drip system and have never used them.....i use Ionic grow,bloom, and boost.....works like majic.....they blow the fuck up off of it....
 
Re: GH Flora Nutes and their pH down... You know, I never really had to use their pH down when I was doing that there thing. A couple of times when I was young and stupid ('87? lol memories faded away) I pH'ed my water down. But one day I forgot to do so and instead mixed up my GH Flora nutes and lo and behold - the pH was right on the sweet spot! So I filled all my reservoirs and a while after that I had to add water. So I checked the pH and it was a little bit off at that point. So being a st00pid n00b, I hit alt.drugs.pot.cultivation(?) which was like the only thing in town at the time - (BTW, pH, NPK, guys - I miss ya all and hope you are all flying free and well!!!) to check to make sure I was about to do my adjustments properly...

And someone told me, "Hey man, instead of trying to adjust the pH of your res', just add a little bit of Flora Bloom to all of them. I'm guessing that's what's been consumed that caused your pH drift and I bet if you do a little bit of funkin' with it, it'll end up spot-on once again!"

And I figured, hey, I've got this big honkin' jug of Bloom so I'll see what happens. And what do you know, the pH ended up right where I wanted it to. And as a side affect (/benefit), the addition of the Bloom nutes allowed me to stretch my reservoir changes about twice as long as usual.

Imagine that, lol. So... When the pH shot up (due to the plants cherry-picking from the available nutrients in the reservoir) I was able to use a nutrient to put it back where it belonged. And also "fix" my out-of-kilter reservoir. Hmm... Win-win?

So I ended up only using about 1/3 of the smallest bottle of GH pH Down over the course of four years.
 
i agree on the GH flora 3parts,but check out advanced nutrients,got plenty of good products,my garden is not the same without advanced nutrients :cool:
 
sharecropper said:
if u want to go on the cheap side and follow the directions look into this recipe below.. u can get all this stuff at a farm supply store..

200 gallon reservoir changed once a week
12 weeks
2400 total gallons used

total nutes needed
19.5# Peters Pro 5-11-26 hydroponic special (has micro nutes) (aprox $50 for 25 lbs dry)
12.9# Calcium Nitrate 15-0-0 (aprox $35 for 50 lbs dry)
3# Agricultural grade (if available) Epsom salt (aprox 2 dollars a pound dry)
(the usage and amount Epsom salt is only necessary pending a water analysis for already present Magnesium) ( optimal total 50ppm for Magnesium in an ongoing feeding sched) watch your Ca:Mg ratios (I shoot for 5:1)

total approximately $70 per 2400 gallons of reservoir water
$0.03 per gallon of water


PETERS PRO 5-11-26 instructions::::

STEP 1: Dissolve 130 ounces or 8 pounds 2 ounces of this material in 1000 gallons
to obtain the following concentrations:
Total ppm
Nitrogen (All Nitrate) N 50
Phosphorus P 48
Potassium K 216
Magnesium Mg 31
Sulfate SO4 125
Iron Fe 3
Manganese Mn 0.50
Zinc Zn 0.15
Copper Cu 0.15
Boron B 0.50
Molybdenum Mo 0.10
STEP 2: Based on the results of a current water test, determine if additional
Magnesium is required. An average of 50 ppm magnesium in the final
solution is desirable for most crops. If water test results indicate that
additional magnesium is required, dissolve Epsom salts. One ounce of
Epsom salts dissolved in 100 gallons (10 oz./1,000 gallons) supplies 7.5
ppm magnesium. Water with very low magnesium levels may require the
addition of up to 2 oz./100 gallons (20 oz./1,000 gallons) of Epsom Salts.
STEP 3: After the Hydroponic Special and any Epsom Salts needed have been
dissolved in the tank, proceed as follows:
-Dissolve 86 ounces of calcium nitrate in the same 1000 gallons. Total
nutrient concentration will then be: Nitrogen as N: 150 ppm N, Calcium
as Ca: 116 ppm Ca.



(i know this is for a more advanced grower i suppose, but u could save urself days of driving time and tons of money!!!)

on the other side of the coin.... check out
fox farms ocean forest potting soil as well as their light warrior or
pro mix bx or hp..
#4 grade chunky perlite 4 cubic ft bags (check farm supply stores)
pumice (6 bucks for 50 pound bag)
fox farms nutes grow big, big bloom, tiger bloom.. (dont forget to grab a feeding schedule)
dont forget some rooting solution with a fungicide in it already.. IBA .3% or better (u can get this at home cheapo)
organic earthworm castings (check garden centers)

dont forget to get your ph indicator solution for ph testing ur water/nute solution , that is if u dont have a ph/ec/tds meter .. if u do ,
dont forget to stock up on solutions for calibration, electrode cleaning and storage ...

my favorite rooting medium of all time are these little plugs that look that turds that have a hole poked in them already, better than oasis, better than rockwool, better than jiffy cubes,, if in a pinch rooting in straight perlite is easy..

stock up on the free magazines/literature often found at the store,, as well as pick the brain of the salesperson...

also, be sure to grab those extra large humidity domes while at the hydro store .. the hold those tall cuttings!

if u dont have a inline blower , get one..

stock up on bulbs.... (recently home cheapo has started carrying up to 400w bulbs for hps and MH for around 25 bucks !!)


happy growing ...
Click to expand...

This makes mucho sense to me on so many levels. Mainly because I'm familiar with it.

Years before it dawned on me that growing MJ was like growing sandspurs (SoFla thing), I was growing orchids and rare ferns. Sort of a commerical hobbiest. LOL Several thousand orchids and a few hundred ferns.

Ended up using Peters bloom booster (10-30-15 ??), 90% of the time as the 20-20-20 gave me too much soft green growth and problems with bugs,fungus and such.

When I first started growing (Williams Wonder, pure Indica), I went from the 20-20-20 back to the bloom booster right quick as the higher N gave me too much soft green growth again. Clones were crap because the stems were so soft. The high phos (on the mothers), gave me better growth for cloning and just continued it through flowering.

Mothers were indoors 18/6 flor, clones in rockwool, same, transplanted to a soilless mix, hardened off and flowered outside in 1 gal pots.

Anyway, is there any reason why the Peters (Now called Jack's Classic or Jack's Professional) would not work?

I used to buy it by the 25# bag size and it goes a long way, for not much money.

Or, MUST you buy these 2 or 3 part liquid nutes that are not cheap?

Is Peters (Jack's), not that good? Or, are the others that much better?

No flame, just really curious.

DD
 
the dry stuff works , if u know how to mix it properly ...
i dont see how a large scale op could be done economically without the dry nutes ...
 
Well, it's going to be far from a large anything, 1 table, either 3x3 or 4x4, still working on that, but good to know that the dry will work ok.

Even before (outside), there was very little veg growth (more of a stealth thing), the clones were rooted, transplanted into 1 gal pots, allowed a few days to get over transplant shock, hardened off, and put into flower outside. All usually within a week or 10 days.

This was pretty much 9 months out of the year in SoFla due to our photoperiod. Clones were seldom over 5" when put into flower and usually less than 12" when finished. More like 9" was the norm.

Bloom Booster was used throughout. Some SuperThrive, usually on the first and perhaps second feeding of newly transplanted clones and some Epsom Salts when they looked like they needed it, maybe every other week.

I also usually used everything at 3/4 strength. It's easy to add more. Getting too much out is not so easy. LOL

It's a 'feel' thing you get from experience, but many times experience comes from killing plants.:sorry: I still manage to kill some, but thankfully, not as many as I used to.:yummy:

DD
 
if u have a mini/portable greenhouse (100 bucks) u could rig up some incandescant (yes incandescant) bulbs in there to extend the plants photoperiod,, not necessarily giving it usable light , but keeping the babies from going to bed at nite. for instance have the light kick on at 5 and turn off at 12pm for a month and see if that keeps them in veg.. it works in poinsettia production. just 1 or two bulbs hanging from the inside rafter.. think utility clamp light .. just dont get it wet!!! be safe with electricity.... ... when ur ready for the plants to flower,, take them out of the greenhouse ,, or turn off the timer for ur bulb depending on how many plants u got .. (u might be able to do this without the greenhouse but having a couple lights shinining down on ur garden at nite might not be the safest thing to do :-(

the greenhouse can also be used to harden off plants that are grown /sprouted indoors and then taken outside ... ... just watch out with those mini greenhouses,, the temps can get hot hot hot if ur not careful.. i usually would just leave the windows open....

good luck with whatever formula u decide to go with.. since it sounds like ur more experienced with the nutes/fertilizers in general , u'll recognize that many nutrients are all the same just in slightly different combinations. .. if u stick to a schedule and have proper cultural practices i'm seeeing good things in the future....
:bongrip:
 
Droopy Dog said:
Anyway, is there any reason why the Peters (Now called Jack's Classic or Jack's Professional) would not work?

I used to buy it by the 25# bag size and it goes a long way, for not much money.

Or, MUST you buy these 2 or 3 part liquid nutes that are not cheap?

Is Peters (Jack's), not that good? Or, are the others that much better?

No flame, just really curious.

DD
Click to expand...
Shhhhhh... Don't spoil the secrets. :cheesygrinsmiley: It seems like we have a couple of Commercial enthusiasts in the forum.

Here is what I use, it is hands down Cheaper, Cleaner, and Better than anything at the "stores"

Veg - Peter's 20-20-20
Magnesium Nitrate 11-0-0
Potassium Nitrate 13.5-0-46.2
Ammonium Sulfate 21-0-0
Urea 46-0-0

Flower - Peter's 20-20-20 (Minimal)
- Calcium Nitrate 15.5-0-0
- Magnesium Nitrate 11-0-0
- Potassium Nitrate 13.5-0-46.2
- Mono-Potassium Phosphate 0-51-33

Warning: This is not for the novice grower, and you could seriously damage the plants if you overuse any of the salts outlined above. Remember this is PURE fertilizer, not the watered down crap you get at the stores.
sharecropper said:
the dry stuff works , if u know how to mix it properly ...
i dont see how a large scale op could be done economically without the dry nutes ...
Click to expand...
Right you are!
 
Ok here it is
veg
55 gallon rez
20 buckets
weekly water changes
PH 5.2-6.2 average 5.5
ppm 1300-1600 average 1400
GH nutes
new product-Floralicious grow-8 ounces
Flora Nova grow -8 onces
Foralicious plus-3 onces
Advanced nutes
Piranha powder-28 grams
Tarantula powder-28 grams
Botanicare nutes
Sweet-16 onces
"skip advanced nutes on the 3rd week"
Thats what the garden is running works awsome with 5 different strains
no burn or yellow anywhere on the plants



Bloom
55 gallon rez
20 buckets
weekly water changes
ph 5.2-6.2 average 5.5
ppm 1300-1600 average 1400
GH nutes
new products-floralicious bloom 8 ounces
flora nova bloom-8 ounces
Advanced nutes
Piranha powder-28 grams
Tarantula powder-28 grams
stop Advanced nutes after 3 weeks in bloom
Botanicare nutes
Sweet-32 onces
continue even in final flush
 
In all honesty, I BOMB THE HELL OUT OF THEM!
I much prefer hydro, my experience with indoor soil grows is they are higher maintenance and there is more room for error.
1. House and garden a+b (believe it or not im using the soil base too lol)
2. General hydroponics diamond nectar
3. Cal+Mag
4. General hydroponics vegan booster
5. Liquid bat guano
6. *Rock resignator*
My ppms are usually around 800-1050, and adjust ph to 5.9
I have great success with this combination
 
Veg+Bloom (base) shine (PK) both from Hydroponic Researchers - Uptake (humic/fulvic acids) root life (microbes) both from Key To Life
Super simple and very effective!
 

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