Help Needed? Autoflower Lemon Haze slow growth

Midknight420

New Member
This is my 3rd grow, first under CFL lighting. This is a cabinet grow. I have them under two 42 watt CFLS, and I have four 16 watt CFLS, 2 on either side. The plants are growing in Miracle Grow Potting Soil, 1 Gallon pots. The current light cycle is 24/0. This is week 6 since seed and I switched to flowering nutes 2 weeks ago. The current nutrients I use are 1/2 tbs Foxfarm's Big Bloom, 1/4 tsp Foxfarm's Tiger Bloom, 1/4 tsp Advanced Nutrient's Bud Ignitor, 1/4 tsp Advanced Nutrient's Bud Candy and 1/4 tsp Rhino Skin. I mix these into a litre of water and divide equally amongst the three plants on Monday and Thursday. I water lightly once a day.

A couple questions:

1) Shouldn't I be seeing bud colas yet?
2) There are some spots of discoloration and yellowing as you can see from the pictures, not alot, but should I be concerned?
3) The shortest plant has tight, clustered bud sites but has begun to twist. the leaves and stems have started to turn, I don't really know how else to explain it.
4) Any Suggestions?

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Circulation leaves something to be desired, temp inside the cabinet is humid and around 80 degrees, not sure about the ph, i've been meaning to get out to get a ph testing kit. Does my nute regiment seem like too much?
 
Your nutes are meaningless if you arent ph'ing. If your PH is off which I'm sure it is, your plants cant uptake nutes or may be getting to much of one and not enough of another.
 
In soil, a lot of times, the fresh nutes pH the water correctly. If fresh potting soil is used, there is a chance that pH is an issue, but it is sometimes not. It looks to me that this plant has gotten too big for the pot and is beginning to bind. Repot into 2.5, or 3gal pots.

Also, I think I saw water spots in one of those pic. How often are you spraying them? Do you let the pot dry between watering? When you put your finger up to the second knuckle into the soil, it should come out dry before you water. In most cases every day is not needed unless these are outside. But your mention of CFL's leads me to believe that these are under controlled conditions.

That damage on the tips, looks to me like burning from the CFL's. Those things do get hot. Try to keep them at least 3" away from the new growth.

Next, with temps at near 80, I would at LEAST put a little 6" clip fan to circulate the air. Is it feasible to leave the doors open for at least part of the day? You would also get better health if you allowed your plants to "sleep" in a lights out period. If you are vegging, I would either use the Gas lantern Routine, or at least an 18/6 lighting schedule. With your heat problems, I would say the GLR would work best for you. I reduces the hours of heat produced by those bulbs by 11 hours, and still is a veg cycle.

12 hours on
5.5 hours off
1 hour on
5.5 hours off.

But these are autoflower so light schedule means very little. But the do need to "sleep" some.
 
Its surly not the size of the container that's causing this problem. I have a plant just as big in a 20oz coke bottle and its thriving, Ive seen way bigger in journals that are using 2 liter bottles.
 
Its surly not the size of the container that's causing this problem. I have a plant just as big in a 20oz coke bottle and its thriving, Ive seen way bigger in journals that are using 2 liter bottles.

and it's HYDRO... not soil as this. Hempy's are different from this.
What strain is it? Wonder Woman, Short Rider
Is it Indica, Sativa or Hybrid? What percentages?
Is it in Veg or Flower stage? Seedling trying to reach the big girl stage
If in Veg... For how long? WW broke ground 2/14 Short Rider 2/26
If in Flower stage... For how long?
Indoor or outdoor? Indoor
Soil or Hydro? Both

Once they get over 12" high plants in soil really should be potted in larger than 1gal to encourage a very large root mass. In hydro this can be bypassed because the roots are literally bathed in nutrients several times a day. In soil the nutrients are not as concentrated, nor delivered as frequently so a larger root system is required to extract nutrients from the soil.

Furthermore, there is a difference in the actual root structure between soil and hydro. In hydro, "water roots" develop to soak as much as they can fast as possible while immersed in nutrients. In soil, the roots are much denser and even woody and do not absorb near as fast, so they tend grow longer than in hydro situations, to make more surface area for the most efficient absorption possible.

I use to grow 15-30 plants at a time, no taller than 3' ball-to-tip and were in 3.5 gal pots. When I removed the roots and tilled the soil after harvest I often found circling at the bottom of even that large of a pot. In a smaller pot, too much circling will not hold water long enough for the soil to absorb and will need more frequent watering to keep up. This constant watering can cause the roots to stay too wet in soil and cause root rot.

That is the only reason I suggested a bigger pot in this grow.
 
I dont have hydro, journal description couldnt be edited by the time I decided to go with soil, my apologies. The 20oz coke bottle is soil. I dont disagree with anything you said above I just dont believe or I guess agree that the twisted leaves and other issues are being caused by the planter size. Maybe not PH either but being able to rule that out by having a PH pen would be priceless.
 
I dont have hydro, journal description couldnt be edited by the time I decided to go with soil, my apologies. The 20oz coke bottle is soil. I dont disagree with anything you said above I just dont believe or I guess agree that the twisted leaves and other issues are being caused by the planter size. Maybe not PH either but being able to rule that out by having a PH pen would be priceless.

very true
 
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