Help!! yellow spot on seedling? need diagnosis!

[MindRage420]

hey guys, me again freaking out over every spec i see on my plant...

first time growing so i need some help identifying the problem here..

i am using a 600w LED (120 actual watts) at 24'' away from the plant (aprox 300-400 PAR) that i just installed last night so it is possible its light burn i guess??

also just gave it a feeding of 6.5 PH water with fox farm happy frog soil (5.3ph +-) and this problem also didnt show until then so maybe the ph is too low? ive been using ph of 7.0 water mixed with the fox farm that would bring it to a better level and hadnt had this problem so i might go back to that..

i have added 0 nutes, no calmag nothing but water.

you may not see it in the pic but the yellow spot does have grey/black in it like necrosis

**this spot occurred overnight, main 2 variables that changed in the last 24hrs are:
going from 65w (8actual) LED at 2'' from plant to the 600watt (120actual) at 24''
lowering the bottled water PH (to 6-6.5)
and when i woke up the grow room temp was at 90! (forgot to turn on ac)

so is it too much light now?
did I lower the PH when i shouldn't have and cause a lockout over night?
is this a sign of heat stress from 1 night at 90?
or is it just time for its first nutrient feeding?
what does the red/purple on the new growth mean?

 

[Chris Scorpio]

Relax, breath and don't over think things

Looks like a bite or something, but chill

At that age start 1/4 strength nutes, and max at 50%

What nutes ya gunna use?

The look droopy, be sure and don't over water, let em dry and then water, helps roots Chase and grow searching for water

 

[MindRage420]

thanks man, just trying to catch any issues before they become serious and this is the first thing ive seen so got me worried...

the leaves are normally praying, thats what had me concerned at first that they arent normally droopy like that so i figured it was sick, and to avoid overwattering ive been waiting almost until the soil was bone dry before watering again but i might have added a bit too much water this time

what has me confused, was that the yellowing/black/grey spot started at the side and not the tip?

also wasnt sure if it was from buying that new light maybe light burn or something

first grow so im paranoid..

i was just going to use fox farm veg (3 2 6)for now, but i would gladly take recomondations if you have some formula you prefer as i have no idea what im doing lol

 

[Chris Scorpio]

Fox farm veg??? What's that

Also the light change can shock her a bit, but she will be fine

 

[MindRage420]

Relax, breath and don't over think things

Looks like a bite or something, but chill

At that age start 1/4 strength nutes, and max at 50%

What nutes ya gunna use?

The look droopy, be sure and don't over water, let em dry and then water, helps roots Chase and grow searching for water

sorry forgot to hit reply, my response is up there and i meant fox farm grow big (6 4 4)

 

[MindRage420]

and i figgured going from 65 to 600 watts might do something lol but was hopping more for a good reaction not a bad one... going from about 40PAR to 400PAR i could see why that would shock it

 

[Chris Scorpio]

Ya start with Big Bloom then add grow big

I started with fox farm nutes, decent stuff just don't go near full strength

Get Big Bloom and Tiger, ya need the trio, but till then start Grow big at 1/4 strength and Calmag at full strength

 

[Emilya Green]

im thinking right off that 24" is way too far away... mine are at 15" for seedling... going to go down to 12 during veg... but do what your light manufacturer recommends.

the coloration in the center I think will be cleared up when you bring the plant into normal light... the center picking up more red now is actually a normal lighter green, typical in the new growth.

The spots look like already getting some pH problems. PH must be adjusted for every fluid to hit the plants, both plain water and water mixed with nutes. Nothing other than 6.3 pH should ever touch your soil. Get some calmag to add to your nute regime too... and start out very slow on all... Happy Frog is a good soil for this stage and has most of what you need. Save the nutes for after you up-pot into some stronger soil that can take you into flower.

 

[MindRage420]

im thinking right off that 24" is way too far away... mine are at 15" for seedling... going to go down to 12 during veg... but do what your light manufacturer recommends.

the coloration in the center I think will be cleared up when you bring the plant into normal light... the center picking up more red now is actually a normal lighter green, typical in the new growth.

The spots look like already getting some pH problems. PH must be adjusted for every fluid to hit the plants, both plain water and water mixed with nutes. Nothing other than 6.3 pH should ever touch your soil. Get some calmag to add to your nute regime too... and start out very slow on all... Happy Frog is a good soil for this stage and has most of what you need. Save the nutes for after you up-pot into some stronger soil that can take you into flower.

i was just thinking about my ph too!

and according to manufacture im getting about 400-500 PAR at 24''

yellowing has gotten a little bigger today but i think i know the issue!

so ive been feeding with ph7 this whole time and its been doing fine

last 2 feeds i lowered it to 6-6.5ph

fox farm happy frog is only at about 5 so water at 7 would bring it to about 6 which is ok but water at 6 would bring it to about 5.5 so i think thats my issue

tell me if any of that sounds correct lol

 

[Emilya Green]

you are doing too much math.... let me blow your mind. The pH at the bottom of your container is not the same as the pH at the top of the container where the soil is starting to dry out.
Don't overthink it. Water at the correct pH every time and at least at that moment you know the pH of the container is 6.3, where you set it. And accuracy counts... there is a huge difference in adjusting to 6.0 and 6.5. 6.3 is the sweet spot. Hit it every time and keep practicing until you can. I remember many days of up and down as I struggled with the mix.
When you water at 6.3, the soil takes over from there. Most of our "pot soils" are buffered so that they are trying to achieve a 6.7 pH, so as the soil dries and loses the influence of your adjustment, the pH in that region begins to rise, swinging slowly through the range, and as it does, unlocking nutrients bound up in your nutrient solution so that they can become available to the plant. If you never hit the correct range the nutrients just sit there, doing nothing but wasting your money.

 

[MindRage420]

you are doing too much math.... let me blow your mind. The pH at the bottom of your container is not the same as the pH at the top of the container where the soil is starting to dry out.
Don't overthink it. Water at the correct pH every time and at least at that moment you know the pH of the container is 6.3, where you set it. And accuracy counts... there is a huge difference in adjusting to 6.0 and 6.5. 6.3 is the sweet spot. Hit it every time and keep practicing until you can. I remember many days of up and down as I struggled with the mix.
When you water at 6.3, the soil takes over from there. Most of our "pot soils" are buffered so that they are trying to achieve a 6.7 pH, so as the soil dries and loses the influence of your adjustment, the pH in that region begins to rise, swinging slowly through the range, and as it does, unlocking nutrients bound up in your nutrient solution so that they can become available to the plant. If you never hit the correct range the nutrients just sit there, doing nothing but wasting your money.

thank you for taking the time to reply, you've been a bigger help than other discouraging pros on the internet..

 

[MindRage420]

you are doing too much math.... let me blow your mind. The pH at the bottom of your container is not the same as the pH at the top of the container where the soil is starting to dry out.
Don't overthink it. Water at the correct pH every time and at least at that moment you know the pH of the container is 6.3, where you set it. And accuracy counts... there is a huge difference in adjusting to 6.0 and 6.5. 6.3 is the sweet spot. Hit it every time and keep practicing until you can. I remember many days of up and down as I struggled with the mix.
When you water at 6.3, the soil takes over from there. Most of our "pot soils" are buffered so that they are trying to achieve a 6.7 pH, so as the soil dries and loses the influence of your adjustment, the pH in that region begins to rise, swinging slowly through the range, and as it does, unlocking nutrients bound up in your nutrient solution so that they can become available to the plant. If you never hit the correct range the nutrients just sit there, doing nothing but wasting your money.

quick question... do you use a blurple led set up? i have blue/ red led with a VEG and BLOOM switch on it and not sure if i should use both or just veg at this stage.. alot of people saying different things

some say the more light the better, and to use both while others say to use veg only first otherwise it will be too stalky and as you can see my nodes are quite close... maybe too close?

thanks

 

[Emilya Green]

quick question... do you use a blurple led set up? i have blue/ red led with a VEG and BLOOM switch on it and not sure if i should use both or just veg at this stage.. alot of people saying different things

some say the more light the better, and to use both while others say to use veg only first otherwise it will be too stalky and as you can see my nodes are quite close... maybe too close?

thanks

My LED rig is billed as a full spectrum light and has no way to switch it. I am however too new in the LED world to know yet if it is desirable to go with an all blue or all red type light, but all I can say is that I am seeing very aggressive growth on my young plants under this light. I think in actuality the plants only see the color bands that they want, so all red or all blue might be appropriate to the proper stages, but I am of the opinion that we don't know exactly how this works and the all spectrum might be supplying something that is actually needed. We need double blind tests... or at least side by side tests, so we can determine this forever.