Emilya Green
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  • Hey EM
    Hope all is well with you I have a question, request to see if I could recommend a product top get reviewed, I'm growing decent weed but I am fighting the Hay horse feed smell I am slowing the dry to a week to 13-14 days I have my weed is jars for 4 months before it smelled and tasted good anyway iot is something I am doing during the dry I saw these products * I know we aren't suppose to post links I hope this is a different case. I cant find anything on the forum. is it possible to request a review?
    ECO FARMS
    wedryer
    Herb NOW
    I( some one could let me know what is the best route I would greatly appreciate it
    Thanks have a good evening
    Savvage61 :thanks:
    Buds Buddy
    Buds Buddy
    Are you using 62% Humidity packs in your jars ? Do you change them about every 3 months ? Is the weed dried out or still a little moist & sticky ? Mine stays moist & sticky in the middle with the RH packs.
    Hello, good morning, I wanted to ask you something that I did not find in any forum and I do not understand well, a friend installed 2 LED panels each with a cxb3590 chip with about 90 w for two tents each 60x60, they have 4 pots each tent, I wanted Knowing what distance they should have in vegetation and in flora is the only thing I want to know, and I think that in forums I saw that it is low power, I await your response and thanks in advance, regards.
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    It depends on a lot of things. If you're using reflectors they can make a difference. It also depends on the age of your plants. My best advice is to get a light meter so that you can see what light level you are putting on the plants. I gradually increase the amount of light all through veg and then find a standard level at the high end of the range for the flower stage
    Buds Buddy
    Buds Buddy
    Emilya ? I'm surprised you recommended a light meter.... lol. Yeah, they work.
    But I still think you can just go by the praying leaves to determine light brightness & height. Not all strains will need the same amount of light so in a way, reading the leaves seems more accurate then a light meter. I quit using my lux meter when I learned about reading the leaves from you a while back. Once in a while I still check it though out of curiosity to see where I am.
    Hello! I was wondering if you could give me a hand with two questions I have regarding something you wrote about flushing:

    "Flushing is definitely NOT a myth. It is done for a specific purpose. If you think that flushing means giving only water and starving your plant at the end, then that IS an old method that was used back in the 1970's to increase the plant's potency, but that has been proven to be a myth. We now know that it is better to feed your plants normally, right up to the end and that it is the curing process that cleans the smoke of all chemical tastes... it isn't done by starving the plant.

    If you are referring to flushing in the correct way, to mean running a 3x the container flush of clean fresh water, to rid the soil of any built up salts or unused nutes, that IS definitely a thing, and is a good tool to use during a grow to allow for full uptake by the plant, not restricted by the debris building up in the soil.

    Lastly, and most importantly, a proper 3x flush should be done 2 weeks before harvest, for it is during these last two weeks that the buds finish out, and sometimes double in weight and girth. Flushing the soil before this process starts ensures that your plants will be able to have full uptake and get as much water and nutrients as it needs for this final push."

    A) If I understood correctly, you recommend flushing 2 weeks before harvest, but then keep feeding the plant after that?
    B) Do you think that this should be necessary for an autoflower fed with organic nutrients? I wonder because it has a lifecycle of only 12 weeks and in my case it's planted on Biobizz Lightmix and using only the Biobizz basic nutrients (Biogrow/Biobloom/Topmax) which I understand are organic and "safer" when it comes to overfeeding/soil buildup compared to synthethic ones.

    Thanks!
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Hi Nicotin, yes, I recommend feeding the plant all the way to the end after the flush. This isn't about cleaning out the plant, it is about cleaning the soil so that the plants can make use of the maximum amount of nutes right up to the end. There is no difference between auto's and regulars when it comes to flushing... if you have used synthetic nutes, which build up salts, then a flush 2 weeks before the chop can be very beneficial, as you continue to feed up to the end. If you are not using synthetic nutrients, there is no salt building up so there is never a need to flush. Just keep doing what you are doing right up to the end.
    N
    Nicotin
    Thanks!
    Happy Belated Birthday!

    Looking at your profile, it says you are in search of a favourite strain. Perhaps at one point in time you were blessed enough to try mine? It came packaged in a tuna can in the early to mid 00's and we used to call it 'tuna can kush' came out of western Canada at the time.
    Hi --- I am on my second ever run & was researching why my leaves were purpling
    then going necrotic by coincidence I had fixed it by flushing last run

    It wasn't until recently that I found A post you mentioned:
    molybdenum deficiency

    just wanted to give you A huge thank you ^.^ as I feel you have taught
    me a huge lesson
    Hi Emilya , I posted some pics of my problem child/ren if you don't mind when you have time would you mind giving me your diagnosis ? you have been such a help and a wealth of knowledge
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    give me a call with an @Emilya from your journal where the pictures are. I am always happy to help when I can.
    Savvage61
    Savvage61
    Im still a bit of a noob I have the pics under Bag flush, I'm the bonehead who mixed soils OF &*HF remember me now lol starting a new Journal soon haven't made one yet
    TY
    Hi! I am new here. I am blown away by Em's threads on how to water plants. Em said to find her grow diary also. "Check out my current journal's last post " How would I navigate to it? Thanks.
    Hi,

    I sort of vaguely remember something about electric current and plants. Okay, "vaguely" might not be a strong enough qualifier, lol. But if it was you commenting on that thread, you might be interested in this link:
    Code:
    https://phys.org/news/2022-01-chinese-electroculture-theorized.amp

    Kind regards,
    TS
    hoping you got through the wind storm ok, we were getting 70mph winds and it was pretty hairy for a while.

    i've spent some time here researching for my first grow and at each step along the way i seem to find advice or instruction that you have provided,
    so just wanted to say thanx for taking the time to teach us nubes how to stay out of our own way.

    seedlings going into the end of their 2nd week really came to life when i followed your lesson on watering.
    My PH was Too Damn High!
    looking forward to learning more from you as i go
    was advised to introduce myself back when i joined. we are probably not far from being neighbors . i'm in nw missouri.
    anyhoo, Hi:ciao:
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    lol, well you joined about a year and a half ago, so I am glad you finally got around to it! Nice to formally meet you! Based on a clue you gave in an earlier post, I would estimate that we are about an hour's drive from each other. Hi!
    twistedlefty
    twistedlefty
    yeah, about that delay. the virus removed a year from our timeline (so-far)
    I've been bouncing around different grow related forums for a few months now,
    and while gathering a lot of info, i know there's still a learning curve.
    unfortunately the timing is looking like i won't be setting up until the thick of winter.
    basement tents are planned.
    worried about dealing with a cold basement.
    hopefully it will sort itself.

    thanks for responding.
    Emilya ... thank you for all your work towards helping people grow.

    I wanted to ask if you had a watering schedule or process for seedlings in small containers or solo cups? I'm currently weighing, and gradually scaling my water in grams from a 10g spray on the planting spot (where the seedling from a soak/paper towel sprout method had been planted root down), misting to keep damp, when it sprouts and weight goes under inital "soil from bag" weight, I squirt 10g at the stem, in about a day its back under dry weight again so I then use your "outer edge" method around the edge of the cup and using a squirt bottle I add 35g h2o. I'm getting excellent results but I'm curious where to go from here. At this point they have 2 true leaves and the 2nd set is coming in. Would you suggest continuing to raise the water weight up progessively to saturation? I worry saturating a solo could stunt the seedling and interrupt a speedy wet/dry cycle. I also read many people use a "shot glass worth" so I weighed that and its 50g. Thats about 15 grams h2o above what I'm currently watering. Perhaps thats the sweet spot for a solo seedling? Or stabilize the plants by giving what they need to be ready for water again in 3 days, establishing a 3 day wet/dry cycle? Or perhaps apply your surface spraying technique to encourage side rooting while letting the lower soil dry out more than I am now?

    I'm very cautious as Ive overwatered before so I'm trying to dial in a process I can repeat reliably.

    Curious what you would suggest and thank you!
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Or perhaps apply your surface spraying technique to encourage side rooting while letting the lower soil dry out more than I am now?
    You have answered your own question. When the bottom is retaining water and you are waiting for the roots to deal with it, water the edges. It appears that I did cover how to properly do this.
    So why would you worry that saturating soil would somehow stunt a seedling? Is this maybe an assumption on your part, and one based on what, maybe gut feeling?
    By the time the seedling is up and starting to put out its leaves, you will continue to spray it twice a day while it is still floating around, and then once a day after the sprig seems to be locked into place. Then the rule is to spray out to 3x the diameter of the plant. At first, this is right on the plant, and the same area you were watering the seed at. So this area in the middle is starting to get wet, all the way to the bottom. The tap root is following this water, and when it finds the bottom, it will turn 90 degrees and spread out along the bottom. At this point, the plant is fairly well locked into place and it stops swimming around every time you get it wet. This is task #1 of the new plant... hitting the bottom, testing its limits as it were. Task #2 is to start throwing out surface area and start doubling and redoubling the amount of photosynthesis going on, while still building more roots at the same time. The leaves work during the day and during the night that stored energy and raw building material goes into building roots. Soon, within days, the diameter of the new plant x3 will reach the outer edges, and after all of this spraying every day, the soil will be quite wet... and nearly saturated. Now it is time to let the roots do their thing, to drain that cup. It may take a few days to do... maybe up to 5 days... but you never want a plant to sit more than 3 days without some new input. On that third day, I water with just a bit... really trying to limit how much more water I am adding, but I water the outside edges, just enough to make them wet. This might add another day to the first draining of the cup, but it also entices the top spreader roots to grow laterally, toward those edges and that water. By the time another 3 days has elapsed or before, the plants will have used all of the water, and they will probably be ready for their first full watering to saturation. This moment should be logged, and then you start your first official wet/dry cycle timer, and you can then watch your roots get stronger and stronger as the cup will start draining the water faster and faster with each cycle. My plants usually get huge and up to the 4th node or better before they can drain that cup in a day, but with this aggressive watering this happens in about a week and a half to two weeks, and then you uppot and repeat this process, trying to see if you can get ready to uppot to your final container, or the next stage, in the next two weeks. If you can go through two steps and move to your final container in a month, you have the process down.

    Regarding weighing... some people need to see physical proof that the container still holds a significant amount of water. They say, it is light, so I need to water, when there is actually 50 to 100 grams of water still in the bottom of the cup. A scale lets a skeptical grower actually see the number, being able to compare a similar cup with dry soil with what is being dealt with. A little postal scale in the veg room is quite an effective training aid and I bet that anyone who hasn't tried it would be shocked how much water remains when they honestly believed that it was as dry as the Sahara Desert.
    S
    squarewaves
    Sweet. Appreciate the thoughtful input.

    I'm using a scale and its been incredibly helpful. I know exactly whats going in, and I know when its been used up or evaporated.

    To answer your question at the beginning about why I worry about saturating the soil being harmful to the seedling ... I just stunted 4 seeds I had planned for this grow and it seems pretty fair to assume they were overwatered. I was watering them too much thinking its hard to overwater in a solo, but I lost those 4. So now I'm on a quest to really dial in this early phase and not waste seeds. They exhibited all the symptoms of overwatering and were not responding to a correction. Since I've been weighing things, my seedlings look great, so it seems like I'm on a good path. I like a process that can be replicated once I know its working. As I imagine you do as well :)

    So can I say its safe to assume your tutorial on watering a seed in its final pot can also be applied to a solo cup or small planter as well?

    Thank you again, I appreciate your time and help ❤
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    yep, the idea of the wet/dry cycle is valid all through the grow... it just changes a little in bloom
    Hi Emilya , Thank you for great information.i have learned how to water cannabis from you when i stated grow my first plant.
    Hi Emilya, I was hoping you can give me direction in my first grow with an auto flower? My plan was to start in a 1gal pot and then transplant to the final 5gal cloth pot. I'm not sure if by waiting for the 1gal to get a good size rootball might be too late to transplant? The alternative is to go from a Dixie cup to a 1gal then to the 5gal or just skip the 1gal altogether? What are your thoughts?
    Thanks in advance.
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    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    if you are monitoring water usage and watering properly, the plants will still tell you when it is time... it just happens faster with an auto. The very first time the plants can suck down all the water you can get that container to take (of any size) in 24-36 hours, it is time to uppot. Stay alert, the first time can sneak up on you fast and then after that the plant will slow down and not be able to achieve that benchmark for a significant extra amount of time, because the roots have gotten in each other's way. It is a classic example of diminishing returns.
    Renaissance Man
    Renaissance Man
    Thank you! That is the answer I was hoping to get! Happy growing!
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