Newbie just saying hello

Brunobudman

Active Member
Hello I am a long time user first time grower. Lol I have sooo many questions.
First , I have a 24” by 48” by 60” grow tent.
I have 4 led in tent
2 600 watt led with veg and bloom switches
1 300 watt full spectrum 12 band/dimmer switch
And a 1000wattdual chip full spectrum.
Ok it that to much light? Do I run the 600watts lights with just veg switchb in veg state and just bloom switch in flowering state? Or do
 
Ok I hope hope I am doing this right because I am a newbie.?and not good with computers . If I mess up please forgive me and point me in right direction.
 
Journal
Bc god bud indica /sativa hybrid ?%/?% 3weeks veg state
Soil
Very thing after germination is fox farm 75% and 25 % nature care Organic potty mic. 15% Perlite also by miracle gro.
Ok I am using 48” by 48” by 80” grow tent
6” charcoal filter with 6” inch in-line fan . 650 cfm
8” charcoal filter with 8” in line can 800 cfm. Evaporated air cooler swamp cooler. I- 300 watt led full spectrum sun light with dimmer switch
2- 600 watt led with veg and bloom switches
1-1000 watt led with triple didoe full spetrum
1-1000 watt led with veg and bloom switches.
Temp 76 to 79 degreE
Rh 52%
plant # 1.transplanted in 5 gallon fabric planters
Using black gold organic potting soil
Ph 5.0 to 5.3 is plant I have issue with
Plant#2 trans in 5g fad tic potter -50% fox farm Ocean forest and 50.% black gold organic
Ph-5.7 to 5.9
Plant3 trans 5g f.p. Fox farm o.f. 25%
Ph 5.9 to6.1
Plant 4&5 trans 5g f.p. Fox farm o.f 75% and nature care organic potting mix 25%.
Ph 6.1 to 6.3
No pests
Watering every 3rd day.
No ferts,no additives. Yet

Plant 1 has problem I think is calcium defects but I am not sure

Help please
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I will sit in too... hello Bruno! I have to ask why the leaves are in the dirt :) Lets get them to raise up and show how happy they are to be producing product for you! I am assuming that the pH readings you gave was trying to approximate the pH of each pot of soil.... my question is what pH do you adjust your fluids to? We can see the beginnings of a deficiency, and I believe pH is the key to solving this.
 
Sorry, but I feel the need to correct some things I am seeing on this thread. Please take no offense anyone.
The pH range in soil is 6.3 - 6.8... don't lock out half of the range (where most of the heavy metals are mobile) by setting your pH too high. At 6.6 pH Iron is NOT mobile... and this will lock out Calcium.... exactly what is happening right now in your plant with the signs of a deficiency showing up in your new growth. Adjust to 6.3 and see if just that one change solves your problem.
Do not ever determine it is time to water by using the finger up to the knuckle, or the 1 inch test... this is a deep rooting weed and the bottom has to go dry every time between waterings to grow this weed correctly. Learn the lift method to determine when this occurs... don't be a finger waterer. This overwatering, by determining that you must water every 3 days is why your plants are drooping. Let them dry out all the way to the bottom between waterings, and establish a clear wet/dry cycle, and you will see how happy it makes your plants.
 
Sorry, but I feel the need to correct some things I am seeing on this thread. Please take no offense anyone.
The pH range in soil is 6.3 - 6.8... don't lock out half of the range (where most of the heavy metals are mobile) by setting your pH too high. At 6.6 pH Iron is NOT mobile... and this will lock out Calcium.... exactly what is happening right now in your plant with the signs of a deficiency showing up in your new growth. Adjust to 6.3 and see if just that one change solves your problem.
Do not ever determine it is time to water by using the finger up to the knuckle, or the 1 inch test... this is a deep rooting weed and the bottom has to go dry every time between waterings to grow this weed correctly. Learn the lift method to determine when this occurs... don't be a finger waterer. This overwatering, by determining that you must water every 3 days is why your plants are drooping. Let them dry out all the way to the bottom between waterings, and establish a clear wet/dry cycle, and you will see how happy it makes your plants.
If you read up top hes already phd at 6.1-6.3 thats why i mentioned 6.5..... im still learning also but i was told 6.5 is a sweet spot.
 
If you read up top hes already phd at 6.1-6.3 thats why i mentioned 6.5..... im still learning also but i was told 6.5 is a sweet spot.
That is the popular myth going around these days, but there wouldnt be a range that everyone talks about if it wasn't for a reason. Please study the two right panels in this chart, and you tell me what happens to Iron and Manganese at 6.5 - 6.6 pH. 6.3 picks up everything as it drifts up toward the base pH of our soils when they are dry, which are usually adjusted to 6.7.
 
First off we should use this chart seeing as how were at the 420 website lol and it could be a magnesium deficiancy and at 6.3 it doesnt hit that and youd be diseregarding that possibility....?
Only because of the visible symptoms and some additional knowledge. Magnesium is a semi mobile element within the plant, so if there is a deficiency the plant starts to steal this resource from the lowest leaves and then later leaves at mid and the top of the plant... but it always starts lower and moves up. This deficiency is only showing in the upper growth, showing that it is something that is not mobile in the plant, and is immediately needed by the new growth. That is how I determine a calcium vs a magnesium deficiency and why I insist on a picture of the entire plant before being able to make a proper diagnosis.
 
Also remember that the pH drifts upwards in our soils... so even starting at 6.3, you will eventually get up to 6.7 and pick up all the upper elements. Not so if you start off in mid scale... as it drifts up, you never do pick up the lower elements and lately this has beenthe cause of so many inquiries about Fe lockouts... because it seems to be the fad these days to recommend 6.5 pH.
 
Wow thank you guys really really awesome all the help I am getting. I am struggling to retain all this info.!!!but I had no idea that I would get so much help thank u .
Ok I got a digi ph tester and plant at question ph is 5.1 !!!!! Holy cow . This was done by removing some soil from Potter and adding water to removed soil just enough to make mud then drain off Exess water , then take my reading and it is ph 5.1. Now where do I find ph up and ph down for soil. Should I sprinkle hydrated lime on top of my dirt and water it into soil? I have done anything yet.
 
Wow thank you guys really really awesome all the help I am getting. I am struggling to retain all this info.!!!but I had no idea that I would get so much help thank u .
Ok I got a digi ph tester and plant at question ph is 5.1 !!!!! Holy cow . This was done by removing some soil from Potter and adding water to removed soil just enough to make mud then drain off Exess water , then take my reading and it is ph 5.1. Now where do I find ph up and ph down for soil. Should I sprinkle hydrated lime on top of my dirt and water it into soil? I have done anything yet.
Walmart bro
 
Please don't ruin your soil by thinking you know it's pH. Just make sure that the water or water with nutes that you use are adjusted to the pH of 6.3, and at that moment your entire container is sitting at 6.3. If you have any sort of commercial soil, it is buffered to 6.7 and will rise to that level as the soil dries out. You did NOT use the correct slurry method to test your soil pH... again, dont go throwing stuff into a perfectly good soil thinking you are going to fix it.
 
I wrote this a few days ago and added it to my watering thread... maybe it will help you to understand pH in a container:

The pH at the bottom of your container is not the same as the pH at the top of the container where the soil is starting to dry out.
Don't overthink it. Water at the correct pH every time and at least at that moment you know the pH of the entire container is 6.3, where you set it. And accuracy counts... there is a huge difference in adjusting to 6.2 and 6.5. 6.3 is the sweet spot. Hit it every time and keep practicing until you can.

When you water at 6.3, the soil takes over from there. Most of our "pot soils" are buffered so that they are trying to achieve a 6.7 pH, so as the soil dries and loses the influence of your liquid adjustment, the pH in that region begins to rise, swinging slowly through the range, and as it does, it is unlocking nutrients bound up in your nutrient solution so that they can become available to the plant. If you never hit the correct pH range, the nutrients just sit there, doing nothing but wasting your money.
 
Ok after reading all this it sounds like I need let me plant dry out until a noticeable difference in weight in the container . So a few more days. So I need to let my plants dry out . Then just water at 6.3 ?? Do I use just reg tape water? And where can I find ph up and ph down for soil application?? I mean I only have one plant that look like it have a problem with . Here is new pic as of now look like get wrose
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yep, you understand it perfectly. You can DIY your pH up and down at the grocery store. Pickling lime makes a very powerful pH up... use it very sparingly into some water on the side and then go with just a drop or two to see how fast it adjusts. Ph down can be any acid, so vinegar is very popular. The very cheapest pH down is regular car battery acid. Buy a kit of it for about $6 from your local auto place, and then use one cup of it to replace a cup of distilled water in a gallon. This 1/16 dilution is a very good replacement for the commercial pH down product, and I used it for years.
 
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