Organic outdoor grow Honey B problems 2019

Jinxed

Well-Known Member
any suggestions this is mostly effecting the new growth. we are starting to get night time temps in the upper 50's off n on some 70 degree nights. mostly 85-100 for the past month day time temps though now leaning towards 80-90 during the day.. had 2 or 3 down pours but little other rain, so had to water and mulch plants to prevent them from drying out. they are grown in organic composted donkey manure and sandy loom with pro grow added and a lot of worm castings added. once a month of worm casting tees with bat guano and now sea bird added.

 
Broad mites - they carry a bacteria that is what you see affecting the new growth.

Broad mites are tough to get rid of. They are REAL small. In the nymph stage they actually live inside the plants stems and where they transfer the disease.

Sometimes they grow out of it and sometimes they don't. It's a crop killer for sure.

The disease is Phytoplasmas but not confirmed. This has to be diagnosed in a lab and no-one wants to research cannabis related stuff like this yet due to the FED prohibition. This likely will change with the new Ag bill that included cannabis sativa. So keep eyes open for cures.

Treatments are:

Avid
Forbid
Sanmite
predatory mite that can be used outdoors: N. californicus mites


Avid is a contact and translaminar miticide. Translaminar = works from the inside of the plant so you don't have to spray 1 or 2 times and need to stop 28 days before harvest if you get that far.

Bad news sorry to see this. But you have an option - spray with avid/sanmite. You need to get on it quick tho.

I'm sharing what I know from another forum.

This stuff makes me feel lucky I only have spider mites. ffs


Its a bacterial infection spread by vectors. The vector in this case is the broad mite.
 
Broad mites - they carry a bacteria that is what you see affecting the new growth.

Broad mites are tough to get rid of. They are REAL small. In the nymph stage they actually live inside the plants stems and where they transfer the disease.

Sometimes they grow out of it and sometimes they don't. It's a crop killer for sure.

The disease is Phytoplasmas but not confirmed. This has to be diagnosed in a lab and no-one wants to research cannabis related stuff like this yet due to the FED prohibition. This likely will change with the new Ag bill that included cannabis sativa. So keep eyes open for cures.

Treatments are:

Avid
Forbid
Sanmite
predatory mite that can be used outdoors: N. californicus mites


Avid is a contact and translaminar miticide. Translaminar = works from the inside of the plant so you don't have to spray 1 or 2 times and need to stop 28 days before harvest if you get that far.

Bad news sorry to see this. But you have an option - spray with avid/sanmite. You need to get on it quick tho.

I'm sharing what I know from another forum.

This stuff makes me feel lucky I only have spider mites. ffs


Its a bacterial infection spread by vectors. The vector in this case is the broad mite.
thanxs for pointing me in a direction and the info....lol if it was only spider mites neem is my friend for those i am going to try a flush with some essential oils to see if i can get the plant to take some stuff up then nail it with foilier sprays its just starting to flower so if a few calyxes die so be it
then i will also prob try that stuff ya mention i was afraid it was tmv that nasty tobacco virus seen it hit tomatoes. also there is 7 other plants in the ground near them that are not showing signs ....hmmmm...god if i dont get any honey bee that gonna suck this year its my goto meds
 
Oils in soil I doubt its going to be helpful.

You can foiler on the products I mentioned, they stay in the plant fighting off the pests from the inside out (not just on contact).

The disease is a bacteria. TMV is a virus.

Both are bad and the result will be the same with either.

Sometimes plants immune system will fight them off. The way I boost my plants immune system is with Silica. I like to add horsetail fern dried into the soil at up pot or planting in your case and foiler on Pro-tekt and Ful-Power.

Prolly can foiler on both of these along with Avid/Sanmite.

Just be mindful of the product labels and human safety.

Some of these products are pretty strong and user need to wear eye protection.

This issue you have is well beyond neem. I'm organic 420% so these products for me would be a last ditch approach if that. If I had other healthy plants I'd likely cull the infected plants and burn them.
 
I would top every one of those down past where the Mites have infected.
Take that and burn it with a weed torch or something to kill the Borg.

Then if you wanted to try something a bit more organic and less harsh, I've heard that this Essentria IC3 might work.
It's just a few Essential oils, you have to spray it like twice a day for weeks but supposedly does the trick.

 
thank you all for the input i have been slamming it with worm casting kelp tea and threw in some beneficial bacteria along with some good ole molasses and yes some pro-tek in the tea. i will laso continue with the teas. i slammed it with neem n very tiny amount of soap. i did that 3 nights in a row then hit every 3 nights after that. i have one more session before i gotta stop and hope for the best. its getting getting to close to budding season it does look way better and yes i did top it all infected areas. i thought it would be easier for the plant to recover with less of them buggers infecting it. oh i had a bon-fire that night lots of weed smoking and burning little critters in the pit. okies off to medicate myself to sleep. and ty again for all the input.
 
GL with the result. Some plants will grow out of it others not so much.

Best to get rid of the infected plants. Insects bite the infected plants and then move onto non-infected plants and infect them.


Its bad shit and it's systemic and its around the world now.
 
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