Switched from FF soil and nutes to organic

[Greg57]

I'm missing something


First run with my own soil and organic nutes.
2x4 tent exhaust fan and 2 other fans
temp 75-80*
rh 51%
18/6

Breeder Redbeard Purple Haze

soil
30% Farm compost 30% perlite 30% peatmoss
worm castings
bat guano
Mykos
4-4-4
2-8-4
PH 6-4
water at 6.8

light is SF2000
@50%

5th wk
amended 3tbs of 2-8-4 and 1 tbs 4-4-4

She is starting the stretch period

Sorry if I missed anything
Thanks GS

 

[NewToTHC]

I am thinking toxicity

 

[Greg57]

I am thinking toxicity

Care to explain more

 

[Nunyabiz]

Looks like a calcium deficiency possibly.
Or something in excess causing a lockout.

 

[Greg57]

Looks like a calcium deficiency possibly.
Or something in excess causing a lockout.

Phosphorus def maybe?

 

[Phytoplankton]

Phosphorus def maybe?

Very unlikely given all the P you recently added. More likely too much. Are you following some kind of recipe (for the soil) and a suggested feeding schedule for nutes, or are you winging it?

 

[NewToTHC]

Care to explain more

As Pytoplankton says, possibly too much of a macro nutrient P? causing lockout or other issues. Probably not nitrogen as the foliage doesn't appear very dark green, but something certainly seems wrong.

 

[Bill284]

I'm missing something


First run with my own soil and organic nutes.
2x4 tent exhaust fan and 2 other fans
temp 75-80*
rh 51%
18/6

Breeder Redbeard Purple Haze

soil
30% Farm compost 30% perlite 30% peatmoss
worm castings
bat guano
Mykos
4-4-4
2-8-4
PH 6-4
water at 6.8

light is SF2000
@50%

5th wk
amended 3tbs of 2-8-4 and 1 tbs 4-4-4

She is starting the stretch period

Sorry if I missed anything
Thanks GS

Hello @Greg57 Welcome to 420magazine my friend.
Cute garden.
I'd add cal mag to my nutrient first wait a few minutes then add the rest as the schedule suggests, exactly. 100%.
Then feed her until you get a 10 % runoff.
Then let her dry right out till she wilts. 3-4 days or more.
Then just plain water.
Then dry again.
Then feed.
Follow this for proper nutrition.
How long has she been in that pot?
If you weren't watering properly you may have a salt build up that requires a flush of your pot.

Stay safe
Bill

 

[Vegan4life]

Look up "Coot's mix" for your next Living organic soil run.

You also need mineral mix/rock dust in that soil mix

 

[Greg57]

Hello @Greg57 Welcome to 420magazine my friend.
Cute garden.
I'd add cal mag to my nutrient first wait a few minutes then add the rest as the schedule suggests, exactly. 100%.
Then feed her until you get a 10 % runoff.
Then let her dry right out till she wilts. 3-4 days or more.
Then just plain water.
Then dry again.
Then feed.
Follow this for proper nutrition.
How long has she been in that pot?
If you weren't watering properly you may have a salt build up that requires a flush of your pot.

Stay safe
Bill

Sprouted in the pot

 

[Emilya Green]

Growing organically is a lot more complicated than dumping organic nutes into some soil and starting the grow. PLease let me recommend the book that got me going in true organic growing, TLO - True Living Organics, by The Rev. This book answered all the questions for me and allowed me to get started correctly in organics. I have not looked back since.

 

[Greg57]

Growing organically is a lot more complicated than dumping organic nutes into some soil and starting the grow. PLease let me recommend the book that got me going in true organic growing, TLO - True Living Organics, by The Rev. This book answered all the questions for me and allowed me to get started correctly in organics. I have not looked back since.

Thank you
I ordered the book. I thought it would be easy lol.

 

[Emilya Green]

Thank you
I ordered the book. I thought it would be easy lol.

I did too... and I didn't realize how many holes there were in my knowledge level at that time. I'm still pretty stupid about some things, but that one book gave me a running start. Your big problem as I see it is you confused organic readily available organic nutes with raw elemental nutrients that you bind in with your soil and let the microbes dole out to the plants. You have not taken care of the composting process that makes this happen, nor the building up of the microbe population. That book will show you how to build a soil, then build a container, and then how to make a microbe tea that will start the process of feeding your plants.

There are now some shortcuts to the teas and things... a couple of my grow journals investigated how to grow TLO without ever brewing a tea, using modern microbial inoculant products. But read the book... there is a lot more there than just that. Send me a note and let me know what you think!

 

[Greg57]

Very unlikely given all the P you recently added. More likely too much. Are you following some kind of recipe (for the soil) and a suggested feeding schedule for nutes, or are you winging it?

The mix is and old one, but a lot still use it

 

[bobrown14]

Look up "Coot's mix" for your next Living organic soil run.

You also need mineral mix/rock dust in that soil mix

this ^^^ what I use. Your inputs with the NPK stuff questionable organic and hard to help with just an NPK number.... organically grown we dont use stuff with NPK - it's the opposite of organics.

The Rev is not organic somewhat organic but not really. Way too complicated.

Look into building your own vermi-compost. IF you're not composting your tossing out your best soil inputs into the garbage. You get your compost right nothing more to worry about.

Looks to me like you're burning up your plants with too much NPK

 

[SmokingWings]

30% Farm compost 30% perlite 30% peatmoss
worm castings
bat guano
Mykos
4-4-4
2-8-4

amended 3tbs of 2-8-4 and 1 tbs 4-4-4

Everyone sees something different which is one of the good points about a group like this. It helps to find out what is missing, or what there is to much of.

You have mentioned most or maybe all of the ingredients for your soil mix but not the recipe. Kind of like cooking something from scratch. We can't toss some flour, sugar, milk, eggs, vanilla, and a couple of other ingredients into a bowl and expect to have a good tasting cake when it comes out of the oven. Each item has an amount and sometimes a sequence to when it should be added.

It might help if you can tell us how much Compost, Perlite and Peat Moss were used. Was it a cubic foot of each? Or a gallon of each? Same with worm castings, how much by volume?

The bat guano is a good ingredient but what were the N-P-K numbers just so we can know and if it might relate to the rest of the ingredients.

Same sort of thing applies to the 4-4-4 and the 2-8-4 except this time it would help to mention what the product was. As an example, was the 4-4-4 sort of fish meal or kelp meal or what? And, how much of each of those was added?

And, why the amending with 3 tablespoons of 2-8-4 and 1 tablespoon of 4-4-4? Did you notice something that did not look right? Not that there is anything wrong with amending. I have the feeling that most of us have done it in the past while developing our personal recipes for a soil mix. (That might be why some of the group feel that there is an excess of Phosphorus (P) causing a toxic reaction and lockout of one or more of the other macro and micro nutrients.)

 

[Greg57]

Everyone sees something different which is one of the good points about a group like this. It helps to find out what is missing, or what there is to much of.

You have mentioned most or maybe all of the ingredients for your soil mix but not the recipe. Kind of like cooking something from scratch. We can't toss some flour, sugar, milk, eggs, vanilla, and a couple of other ingredients into a bowl and expect to have a good tasting cake when it comes out of the oven. Each item has an amount and sometimes a sequence to when it should be added.

It might help if you can tell us how much Compost, Perlite and Peat Moss were used. Was it a cubic foot of each? Or a gallon of each? Same with worm castings, how much by volume?

The bat guano is a good ingredient but what were the N-P-K numbers just so we can know and if it might relate to the rest of the ingredients.

Same sort of thing applies to the 4-4-4 and the 2-8-4 except this time it would help to mention what the product was. As an example, was the 4-4-4 sort of fish meal or kelp meal or what? And, how much of each of those was added?

And, why the amending with 3 tablespoons of 2-8-4 and 1 tablespoon of 4-4-4? Did you notice something that did not look right? Not that there is anything wrong with amending. I have the feeling that most of us have done it in the past while developing our personal recipes for a soil mix. (That might be why some of the group feel that there is an excess of Phosphorus (P) causing a toxic reaction and lockout of one or more of the other macro and micro nutrients.)

Thanks For your Reply, Happy New Year

My soil is in 3 gal bags so a gal of each.

Why did I use it, my compost is very dense and rich, so I blended in the perlite and peatmoss to break it down?
Also, to help the compost drain. The 4-4-4 and 2-8-4 is a blend from a local hydro store, so I have no idea. Worm casting 1.25-0-0 Bat guano 0-0.5-0.7

I amended the soil because the plant had early signs of Preflower and was told to start switching to 2-8-4 bloom. Which was done on 12-19.

But she is looking better.
What is wrong with my base soil mix?
Thanks

 

[AdaminCO]

Thanks For your Reply, Happy New Year

My soil is in 3 gal bags so a gal of each.

Why did I use it, my compost is very dense and rich, so I blended in the perlite and peatmoss to break it down?
Also, to help the compost drain. The 4-4-4 and 2-8-4 is a blend from a local hydro store, so I have no idea. Worm casting 1.25-0-0 Bat guano 0-0.5-0.7

I amended the soil because the plant had early signs of Preflower and was told to start switching to 2-8-4 bloom. Which was done on 12-19.

But she is looking better.
What is wrong with my base soil mix?
Thanks

When you say “blend”, are these natural ingredients (bone meal, feather meal, shell, etc) or water soluble ingredients?

If they are natural ingredients you will need to feed the soil/microbes with a tea, molasses, or something like that to break down the raw ingredients so the roots can uptake the nutrient.

When I build/amend soil I preload with dry amendments, perlite, mycorrhiza, earthworm castings at a specific ratio and let the mix “bake” for a couple of months before use.

To me the plant looks hungry. Don’t let your plant fully dry out now that it’s flowering. I only do a full wet to dry cycles in Veg.

F876F513-F5DF-4C0C-AA01-C92826735C66.jpeg

• AdaminCO
• Aug 29, 2019
• aerated compost tea

Compost Brew

F0D6767E-BD62-47D6-A207-C72397FB4440.jpeg

• AdaminCO
• Aug 29, 2019
• soil mix

Soil mixing

6E4DEB54-9D95-4551-8692-38E5D88EADB2.jpeg

• AdaminCO
• Aug 29, 2019
• soil

Soil Build

Jack Herer

• AdaminCO
• Oct 14, 2019
• #jackherer

Jack Herer

 

[Greg57]

Yes, the 4-4-4 and 2-8-4 is their line of organic's.
And I add Molasses 1tbs per gal once a week at watering


Yes, I did mix all my dry amendments at one time based on my 3-gal bags. I didn't know to Bake it. I did 1wk.
My initial mix may not have been enough to last 5wks.
And I use the same worm castings

Thanks

 

[cbdhemp808]

soil
30% Farm compost 30% perlite 30% peatmoss
worm castings
bat guano
Mykos
4-4-4
2-8-4

I think you've got too much perlite and peatmoss. Also, I think your pot size is too small. 3 gal? I can't imagine growing plants in 3 gal. pots. My minimum right now is 15 gal, and in homemade smart pots made out of weed cloth. Depending on your grow space and lighting, you could increase to maybe 10 gal. at least.

I recommend good quality coco coir (ground up coconut husks) instead of peat moss. Peat moss is acidic, while coco coir is neutral. The coir can be somewhat difficult to acquire, and the lower quality stuff can have too much salt in it. I look at perlite as something to just add some aeration to your mix, but you don't need much.

I use my own custom made mixture based on: compost soil, volcanic cinder (mostly black cinder), coir, fresh worm compost from our worm bins, and organic ferts from Down to Earth. The ferts: oyster shell powder, seabird guano, bat guano, dolomite, gypsum, greensand, potassium sulfate. I also add a little biochar if I have some. Of course, all of these in the right ratios.

I would avoid molasses because it contains heavy metals, and those will wind up in your resin, primarily lead. I also use Mykos, but not added as part of the soil mixture. I just add some "in the hole" when I'm planting clones or up potting.

good luck!