Colombian Andes Greenhouse SIP CBD Auto Grow

[cbdhemp808]

The old soil comes from your prior rounds in your pots. What do you do with that stuff? The old soil brings in the strain specific microbes assuming you run the same strains, but at the very least canna specific ones, plus brings in some of the goodies that take longer than one grow cycleto break down like stone dust.

Without out it, hmmm not sure. I know Bill284 says not to mix castings with pure coco because it screws up the pH.

Also, to that mix I add a half part of my bio char. And the amendments are really small parts. I'll look up what The Rev uses from his book.

Congrats on getting your situation squared away.

Problem is... I believe the soil he used had way too much sodium in it. He'll need to start over.

@el gringuito ... I'll answer your question(s) above... will need to do that tomorrow... outta time tonight.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Sorry, crazy busy today, Gringuito... I'll try again mañana.

 

[CBDMed]

The old soil comes from your prior rounds in your pots. What do you do with that stuff?

Well, it was a bummer, but I dumped all that stuff out on the neighboring lot, because it had so much sodium in it (hat tip to CBD on that one ('cuz I missed that!).

The old soil brings in the strain specific microbes assuming you run the same strains, but at the very least canna specific ones, plus brings in some of the goodies that take longer than one grow cycleto break down like stone dust.

Yeah, I was looking forward to reconditioning the soil and using it again! It was a super bummer to find out that it was salted from the get-go! (No wonder my plants did not thrive!)

Without out it, hmmm not sure. I know Bill284 says not to mix castings with pure coco because it screws up the pH.

Oy....

Ok, great to know, thanks!
Worm castings are easy.
I looked again for kitchen compost (not organic), and could not find it this time.
Hmmm....

Also, to that mix I add a half part of my bio char. And the amendments are really small parts. I'll look up what The Rev uses from his book.

Ok, my biochar should be good to go now.

Congrats on getting your situation squared away.

Thanks! We are not out of the woods yet, but if we walk carefully for two years or so, it looks like it definitely could work!
Best on your end, also!

 

[CBDMed]

Problem is... I believe the soil he used had way too much sodium in it. He'll need to start over.

Yeah, bummer deal, but super good to know it! (Welcome to Colombia, hahaha!!

@el gringuito ... I'll answer your question(s) above... will need to do that tomorrow... outta time tonight.

No worries, I actually don't have time to mix anything this week, it will have to be next week! I am just trying to see what I have on hand, and what I can do next week. (Just trying to get ready.)
If you're too busy, don't worry about it.
There are a zillion recipes out there, I just want to see what I can do with these 100% CBD seeds

 

[CBDMed]

Sorry, crazy busy today, Gringuito... I'll try again mañana.

Yeah, don't worry! ("No te preocupes!") Haha! I've got like two dozen formulas I want to try, but you guys are old hands, so I thought I could learn something good! But if you are too busy, I have too many formulas I want to try out!
The only thing is that it is kinda diffren' here, 'cuz you have really spotty and limited availability! So don't put yourself to any work to make a list of ingredients, 'cuz I'm not sure I will be able to find them anyway! :-/ Lol.

Ay yay yay.... Colombia!!

Because of Azi's SIP suggestion, and everyone's help, I got wayyyy more brown bud from that last grow than I thought I would! It looks kinda brown, but it still launches the space shuttle real good, hahahaha!


It would be nice to grow some of these new all-CBD auto seeds, to see what they are like!
And then I can grow regular THC weed also, and mix in the bowl!!
Thanks for the suggestions, I can't wait to try it out!!

Still super busy this week, but I hope to make time to mix soil either next week, or the week after.
I can easy pre-load GeoFlora into soil and then top-dress, but I am not sure if that will attract flies again. Does a layer of WC negate the flies associated with top-dressing?

I've also got various components, and could order more/different.
I got enough bud from the Azi SIP suggestion that I am really not in any hurry, I just like having greenbud growing in the house! Haha!!
It smells good, and it feels good, and I like it!
And I thought it would be fun to try some new flavors! Hahahaha!
Lol!

Anyway, I need to check. I may also have found some outdoor CBD sativa seeds. So, I might put one on the roof under the rainfly.
Or I might take the door and windows off the greenhouse (long story), and try to grow one on the roof.
Anyway, I am blasted for time right now, but I am thinking about it.

I might want to mix the supersoil next week, just because I already have all the components
I get the point that there are (much) better formulas out there, and I am open to using the components I already have in different ways, if it will be a better result--but right now I don't even really know what I have. (Not really.)
I am closing up a monster project right now, and when it is closed, then I can take a couple of days (next week, or the week after) to figure out what I've got, and what I can do.
Thanks so much to all!

 

[cbdhemp808]

Hey Gringuito ~ I haven't forgotten about you! ...just been catching up on a lot of posting. I've been collecting info on my soil mix... just made another batch over the weekend... about 32 gallons. You mentioned Mikrobs... you may have an easier time ordering Recharge microbial superpack... a very similar product. I just posted a comparison HERE. Keep in mind Langbeinite for potassium (K20 22%, Mg 10.8%, S 22%). I will write much more, hopefully on Tuesday.
take care

 

[CBDMed]

Hey Gringuito ~ I haven't forgotten about you! ...just been catching up on a lot of posting. I've been collecting info on my soil mix... just made another batch over the weekend... about 32 gallons. You mentioned Mikrobs... you may have an easier time ordering Recharge microbial superpack... a very similar product. I just posted a comparison HERE. Keep in mind Langbeinite for potassium (K20 22%, Mg 10.8%, S 22%). I will write much more, hopefully on Tuesday.
take care

Hey CBD!
No worries, braugh! I got a good crop from Azi's SIPs, with all the help and advice you and everyone else gave.
I just want to start another grow 'cuz I am digging all the different flavors, and the different medical fx, haha!
But I have plenty of greenbud (brownbud?) now, so I can hang!


Could I ask advice about something else?
I am still undecided about the rocket fuel factory rosin press.
I love the stratosphere, and I think it helps with a lot of things! Only, I am looking for ways to take it easier on my lungs ('cuz my lungs aren't great to start with, and sometimes they feel roasted).

Is rosin easier or harder on the lungs (and on the health in general) than vaping?
I like the stratosphere, and maybe it is just me, but I get a little nervous when we start denaturing things too much.
(For example I like coca leaf powder and coca leaf tea because they are non-addictive forms, but I stay away from snow or anything overly processed, because I think that's when things get addictive, because you are trying to get the minor compounds and flavinoids, etc., that get processed out. That happens all the time in medicine.)
But just squeezing the plant to take out it's rosin, that does not seem like denaturing it (at least not technically) any more than maple syrup is denatured, so I am still praying about it.

Right now I am using a simple Arizer V-Tower with a grinder and a screen mesh bowl (because grinding it extracts the goodies the fastest, meaning I get the least hot air hitting my throat).
That goes into a small bubbler, which makes the vapor a lil' softer and a lil' more moist.
I basically vape the green off the bud, which is when the quality of the vapor changes from sweet and flavorful and light blue on exhale, until it just starts to taste burned and the vapor looks more light grey).
Then I empty that bowl out, and mix the toasted grind in with my food.
Usually that does me pretty good, but my throat isn't happy.

I got thinking about rosin because the about every fifth vaping session I have to turn the screen around and burn it, to clean the screen. That sends me out to Pluto.

So, I started to wonder if I could vape rosin with less irritation on my throat.
The hope is that I can get to Pluto with less throat irritation. (Obviously, the danger is that you decide you want to go visit another solar system, hahaha!)

I am thinking, if rosin is harder on the lungs, then I should sit put.
But if rosin is hypothetically easier on the lungs (assuming you don't decide to go visit a parallel universe), then I would just need to limit my rosin so that my lungs don't get irritated.

Sorry, I didn't get very far on Grandpa's page. (I want to finish it, but time is a cruncher.) He seems like a funny guy.
But how do you vape rosin, anyway? Are we talking a Huni Badger? Or are we talking propane blowtorches? (Good thing I live in a concrete building, hahahaha!)

Thanks for all the advice and help. Everything in His time. The project keeps growing but as soon as it is done, Father willing, I want to mix soil and pop beans. (It is good to have little plantas in the house.)

Hahaha, and my package of Mikrobs got burned up when they torched the delivery truck in a demonstration!
(Haha, other people get their homework eaten by dogs. Our packages get burned up by riots! Hahahaha!)
I've already got DynoMyco, ReCharge, and liquid Orca.
Were you saying I should look for some Trichoderma in addition to that?
And is there a best brand?

 

[cbdhemp808]

Hey Gringuito,

Could I ask advice about something else?
I am still undecided about the rocket fuel factory rosin press.

Sorry, I know nothing about rosin... well, very little. I know a guy who has rosin press(es) and is very familiar with making rosin.

Right now I am using a simple Arizer V-Tower with a grinder and a screen mesh bowl (because grinding it extracts the goodies the fastest, meaning I get the least hot air hitting my throat).

I use a PAX Mini for vaping flower.

Hahaha, and my package of Mikrobs got burned up when they torched the delivery truck in a demonstration!
(Haha, other people get their homework eaten by dogs. Our packages get burned up by riots! Hahahaha!)
I've already got DynoMyco, ReCharge, and liquid Orca.
Were you saying I should look for some Trichoderma in addition to that?
And is there a best brand?

The full lowdown is in my comparison of Mikrobs and Recharge, HERE.

 

[StoneOtter]

Sorry, I didn't get very far on Grandpa's page. (I want to finish it, but time is a cruncher.) He seems like a funny guy.
But how do you vape rosin, anyway? Are we talking a Huni Badger? Or are we talking propane blowtorches? (Good thing I live in a concrete building, hahahaha!)

The Huni Badger will work EG. I use one from @Ispire called The Daab. Also The Wand from them. They work differently but both through electromagnetism.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I might want to mix the supersoil next week, just because I already have all the components
I get the point that there are (much) better formulas out there, and I am open to using the components I already have in different ways, if it will be a better result--but right now I don't even really know what I have. (Not really.)

OK, so here's my own supersoil recipe... I mentioned I made 32 gal of it the other night.

I started with used soil from my grow, and dumped it into a large wheelbarrow... I'm guessing a 5 cu ft wheelbarrow (37 gal).

My batch came out to 32 gal, so to determine how much recycled soil I put in the wheelbarrow... I'm gonna say 32 gal minus 2 gallons of fresh worm compost, and 2 gallons of coconut coir. The perlite and ferts don't take up much space.

So, starting with 28 gal of used soil into the wheelbarrow.

I wrote on May 4:

This is the backbone of my mix... old compost soil, fresh worm compost from our bins, coco coir, and perlite. Then I add a bunch of Down to Earth ferts... oyster shell, bat guano, seabird guano, dolomite lime, greensand, gypsum, solution grade potassium sulfate (and/or Langbeinite), kelp meal, humic acid. I also add silicate in the form of powdered quartz.

So, instead of used soil, you will be starting with compost soil, worm castings, coco coir, and perlite. I don't know what you plan to use for your compost soil – did you decide on Roots Organics or Confiabonos? Or perhaps topsoil and compost mixed?

RE: compost soil... In this case, when I think of the word, "soil," I'm thinking of what you'd find if you took a shovel to the Earth in a field by a river. To me, that's "soil". Now, natural soil from the Earth contains lots of minerals, and also organic matter – it's a lot different than what comes in a bag and is called "potting soil". So, I'm saying topsoil (natural soil) mixed with compost. And by compost, I mean composted organic material, such as what you'd make from kitchen buckets of compost, added to a covered compost pile and left to biodegrade for some months, along with various other inputs, such as grass clippings, animal manure, some soil to introduce microbes, and the right amount of moisture.

You may not have access to natural soil, and compost, in order to mix the two together; however, in my mind that's what you'll want to approximate however you can.

To mix the two together, figure 30% topsoil, 70% compost.

Here's approximate amounts of those initial ingredients, adding up to 28 gal: compost soil (12 gal) , worm castings (3.5 gal), coco coir (7 gal), perlite (3.5 gal), biochar - optional (1-2 gal).


Just for reference... here's some ratios I put together for 16 gal of supersoil (organic matter added - orange)

⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅	⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅	⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅⋅
natural topsoil	3 gal	minerals, organic matter, microbes
compost	4 gal
worm castings (fresh worm soil w/ worms)	2 gal	microbes, humates, fulvates
coco coir	4 gal	neutral pH, 5.7–6.5 (peat moss is acidic: 3.0–4.0)
perlite	2 gal	medium, soil mix grade
biochar	1 gal	microbe habitat, conserve nutrients
+ ferts bat guano (N) seabird guano (Ca, P) dolomite lime (Ca, Mg) oyster shell powder (Ca) greensand (K, Fe, Si) gypsum (Ca, S) potassium sulfate (K, S) -or- langbeinite (K,Mg,S) kelp meal (Fe, S, minerals, aminos) silica powder (Si)	-----	organic ferts
Mykos	-----	mycorrhizal fungus: Rhizophagus intraradices

Now back to our 32 gal batch... starting with a wheelbarrow full of 28 gal of recycled soil.

In your case, 12 gal of compost soil. Don't wet the soil yet... best to work it while dry.

The first thing I do is work the soil with my hands and a large trowel, to break up clumps and remove roots and any larger stones. Then I start adding the ferts – I just dump them all on the surface of the soil.

Here are approx. fert amounts based on my last batch (c = cup):

1c oyster shell powder (Ca)
1c seabird guano (Ca, P)
2c bat guano (N)
1.5c dolomite lime (Ca, Mg)
2c greensand (K, Fe, Si)
2c gypsum (Ca, S)
0.5c potassium sulfate (K, S) -or- langbeinite (K, Mg, S)
1c kelp meal (Fe, S, minerals, aminos)
0.5c silica powder (SiO2)

TOTAL: about 11.5 cups... close to 3 quarts

Now I start mixing the ferts into the soil, by hand. This involves just a lot of digging and turning with a large trowel, and with your hands. My tool of choice is the plastic head of a kids' shovel... nice a wide.

When fully mixed, add a gallon of pure water, to wet and activate the soil. Mix it in.

At this point, I like to have the coco coir moist. Usually I expand a brick with water just prior to making a batch of supersoil. So, it's thoroughly damp but not soggy.

Now add your worm castings (3.5 gal), coco coir (7 gal), perlite (3.5 gal), and biochar - optional (1-2 gal). Note: if you don't use biochar, just add more of any or all of the other ingredients.

Now mix these in fully, digging and turning until it's all mixed up well.

TA DA! Ready for planting.

Hey, CBD!
Do you have perhaps a specific recipe, so I can be sure I have enough of all the stuff?
Also, do you let your mix cook?

I am not familiar with sterilizing soil – I've never done it. This mix I'm talking about here is full of microbes, due to the fresh worm compost, as well as compost soil. It wouldn't make sense to sterilize either of those. If you are making compost soil using some local topsoil, you may wish to sterilize the topsoil. Whether or not that is actually necessary, I don't know – it depends on the soil and where you source it from.


RE: Mycorrhizal fungi and Trichoderma

I use myco "in the hole" when I'm up potting. For example, when I plant a clone into a 1 gal pot, I'll fill the pot to about 2" below the top w/ soil, and then make a hole in the soil with my hands to accept the root ball of the clone. I sprinkle some myco in the hole, and then spray it with water to dampen. Then I gently place the root ball in the hole, and cover with soil.

I'm using trichoderma as a treatment for root zone problems. BUT I have also now added it to my worm bins, so it will be present whenever I add fresh worm soil to my soil mix. You can always introduce it at any time by watering it in – i.e. using Mikrobs or Recharge. Fyi... Recharge does contain 2 species of trichoderma, even though it isn't always listed on the back of the package. This apparently is due to differences in labeling requirements for various U.S. states.

 

[CBDMed]

Hi Shed! Thank you very much! Internet is down for a while

The Huni Badger will work EG. I use one from @Ispire called The Daab. Also The Wand from them. They work differently but both through electromagnetism.

, and I am on my phone, so I will try to check it out when internet comes back.
Thanks!

 

[CBDMed]

Hi CBD!
Thanks so much! Internet is pounded, and we just got another massive break, so we are back on the run for a while.
But after this project, I still want to mix soil!
I added a bookmark, and hope to come back to it when I come up for air and some shore leave, haha!

 

[CBDMed]

Hey Gringuito,


Sorry, I know nothing about rosin... well, very little. I know a guy who has rosin press(es) and is very familiar with making rosin.


I use a PAX Mini for vaping flower.



The full lowdown is in my comparison of Mikrobs and Recharge, HERE.

Whew!! I finally got a break.
I am taking a half day off, so I can feel human again.
I need to research soil. I got a bunch of videos to watch but I want to go through your post above about soil.
I'm not sure what I can mix today, but once I get it figured out, we can order stuff to recondition this soil.

The PAX Mini looks good.
Good comparison between Mikrobs and Recharge.
Only, if the Mikrobs dose (1tsp) is twice that of Recharge (1/2 tsp) then is Recharge more economical?

I hit the coca plants with some Recharge to see if it will help the aphid situation. We'll see

 

[CBDMed]

The Huni Badger will work EG. I use one from @Ispire called The Daab. Also The Wand from them. They work differently but both through electromagnetism.

Hey Stone,
Wow that Daab and Wand look really good! I am going to pray about that instead of the Huni Badger.

I am taking a half-day to get some soil started, and feel like a human again.
(I want to figure out some soil, and start some 100% CBD seeds if I can. )

What does it mean, they work through electromagnetism??

Thanks everyone.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Only, if the Mikrobs dose (1tsp) is twice that of Recharge (1/2 tsp) then is Recharge more economical?

My interpretation is that the are are basically the same shi*... some minor differences, and Mikrobs is perhaps a bit more potent. So... 1tsp of either is nearly the same in terms of amount of microbes. Mikrobs is less expensive.

 

[CBDMed]

Greenhouse question:
The inside of my greenhouse was wayyyy too wet. (I had moisture condensing on the inside of the plastic.)

I took the windows off the frames, and propped the door open, to lower the humidity. S

My interpretation is that the are are basically the same shi*... some minor differences, and Mikrobs is perhaps a bit more potent. So... 1tsp of either is nearly the same in terms of amount of microbes. Mikrobs is less expensive.

Yeah, so whichever one is on sale! Hahahaha!

I ran way out of time. I thought I would take 1 day to clear the backlog, it looks more like a few more.
I will have to mix soil next week, but we will get there.
And in the meantime, I have plenty of bud for Shabbat!! Aleluyah!

 

[CBDMed]

Ok, I went to the @GeoFlora Nutrients thread and asked there, but I thought I should also ask here.
With Subcool's Supersoil, once you have cooked it, then you can hypothetically just load up your SIP or pot, and then all you hypothetically have to do, is to add water.

So, if you pre-load @GeoFlora Nutrients into the soil, do you have to cook it, like with Subcool Supersoil?
(Or do you just mix and go?)

Also, is there a @GeoFlora Nutrients regimen where you can load up the soil, and then add only water (as with Supersoil)?
The reason I ask is that I would like to start another SIP auto grow, but there is some possibility that I might have to travel--and if so, then I need something idiotproof, where all they have to do is to add water to the SIPs (as with Supersoil).
Is that possible with GeoFlora?
Thanks.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Hey Gringuito,

Ok, I went to the @GeoFlora Nutrients thread and asked there, but I thought I should also ask here.
With Subcool's Supersoil, once you have cooked it, then you can hypothetically just load up your SIP or pot, and then all you hypothetically have to do, is to add water.

Are you set on cooking? (sterilization) Because once you do that, microbes are destroyed. I'm not familiar with cooking... have never done it, and I'm getting very good results w/ my custom supersoil.

I can understand wanting to sterilize compost or worm castings, if one suspects they may contain pathogenic bacteria, fungi, nasty mesofauna (e.g. bad nematodes, etc.), or destructive larvae (e.g. fungus gnat larvae). Once you do that; however, then you can mix in everything else that's going to be in your supersoil, including something like GeoFlora, Mikrobs, Recharge, etc. You could also drench the soil with aerated compost tea, to introduce beneficial microbes.

So, if you pre-load @GeoFlora Nutrients into the soil, do you have to cook it, like with Subcool Supersoil?
(Or do you just mix and go?)

Also, is there a @GeoFlora Nutrients regimen where you can load up the soil, and then add only water (as with Supersoil)?

GeoFlora is a top dressing. I took a quick look at it, HERE.

If you were to sterilize the soil after adding GeoFlora, you'd be killing the beneficial microbes that are in GeoFlora.

@Wastei mentioned Bacillus amyloliquefaciens as the microbe of choice for hydro, and that it's found in two products, SouthernAG GFF and Hydroguard. I then commented...

Also found in Roots Organics Oregonism XL, "for use in soil/hydroponics"...

Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus megaterium, Bacillus pumilus, Bacillus simplex, Bacillus subtilis, Pseudomonas fluorescens

The ones marked in green are also found in both Mikrobs and Recharge.

I think all Bacillus species are aerobic. Pseudomonas fluorescens is a facultative anaerobe.

Down to Earth's Root Zone product contains:

Bacillus coagulans, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus megaterium, Bacillus pumilus, Bacillus thuringiensis, Paenibacillus polymyxa, Azotobacter chroococcum, Pseudomonas chlororaphis, Pseudomonas fluorescens

So now we can add GeoFlora to the club...

The reason I ask is that I would like to start another SIP auto grow, but there is some possibility that I might have to travel--and if so, then I need something idiotproof, where all they have to do is to add water to the SIPs (as with Supersoil).
Is that possible with GeoFlora?
Thanks.

GeoFlora is an NPK granular top dressing. Veg is 5-3-4, bloom is 3-5-5. It contains nitrogen, phosphate, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. It also contains kelp which has a lot of trace minerals and amino acids. There's also some yucca in it, as well as molasses and humic acids. GeoFlora is like a macro- and micro-nutrient fertilizer with Mikrobs or Recharge added to it (except GeoFlora doesn't contain mycorrhizal fungi or trichoderma – just bacteria).

is kind of like Mikrobs or Recharge with macronutrients and Ca, Mg, and S added.

I'm guessing Bacillus amyloliquefaciens would be a good one for your SIP reservoir, and perhaps some of the others. @Wastei recommends against Bacillus subtilis in a reservoir.

I personally wouldn't use GeoFlora – I prefer to source NPK, Ca, Mg, S individually so I can add however much I want. Ditto for the microbes and kelp. But if you are trying to make the process a bit quicker/easier, GeoFlora looks like a pretty good product.

GeoFlora veg analysis:

GeoFlora bloom analysis:

source: CDFA Fertilizer Product Database

 

[Azimuth]

Ok, I went to the @GeoFlora Nutrients thread and asked there, but I thought I should also ask here.
With Subcool's Supersoil, once you have cooked it, then you can hypothetically just load up your SIP or pot, and then all you hypothetically have to do, is to add water.

So, if you pre-load @GeoFlora Nutrients into the soil, do you have to cook it, like with Subcool Supersoil?
(Or do you just mix and go?)

Also, is there a @GeoFlora Nutrients regimen where you can load up the soil, and then add only water (as with Supersoil)?
The reason I ask is that I would like to start another SIP auto grow, but there is some possibility that I might have to travel--and if so, then I need something idiotproof, where all they have to do is to add water to the SIPs (as with Supersoil).
Is that possible with GeoFlora?
Thanks.

If you're going the Geoflora route, you can skip all of the Supersoil amendments and the cooking time altogether and just use some sort of simple, base mix as your grow medium.

Emilya did a review of Geoflora Here as part of her staff duties and she uses it as the foundation for her grows which, if you follow them, are somewhat better than average.

With that stuff, they say you can even grow with it in coco which has nothing to offer plants in the way of nutrients. You put the first addition in the soil when you mix it up, let it sit for two weeks to let the microbes get activated and do their thing and then add the prescribed amount as a top dress every two weeks and water in from the top (even in SIPs).

An organic grow doesn't get much easier than that, and you don't need any of the other additives that one would generally add to an organic grow.

The Geoflora even gets around the small pot issue since every time you add the topdress you are adding all of the inputs needed along with the microbes needed to break them down.

Do that every two weeks, and it's water only from there. They say it doesn't even matter if you use chlorinated water since there are enough microbes with each dose to overcome that issue. There are two different products, one for veg and the other for flower.

 

[InTheShed]

Top dressing with GF does require some top-watering to activate it, even in a SIP.