Pest Problem Please Help

[irelandbuds8]

i have litte bugs spinning webs all over my indoor hydro Silver haze. Somebody HELP. Wierd thing is no spots on the leaves no yellow tips nothing plant looks just fine except these microscopic spider looking things spinning webs

 

[MR.BLUNTZ420]

sounds like spider mites. use some neem oil or use a mild soapy solution if dont get rid of them they will destroy or overwhelm ur plant with nasty lil webs and so on

there are alot more people on here that will give u better explanation than me im new i just heard that that works on several lil iinsects

 

[Stix]

Spider mites are the bane of marijuana growers. Mites are not insects, but arachnids, the same family as spiders. They have eight legs. Your garden is probably infested with two spotted mites. When looking through a loop or magnifying glass, two black spots are visible on the pest's back. Gardens are also infrequently infested with the red spider mite.

Spider mites are about the size of a poppy seed. They insert a tube into the plant and suck out its juices. Indoors, where they are not combating nature's challenges, mites multiply quickly and overwhelm gardens. Mites lay eggs after they mature, about two weeks after hatching. The females lay thousands of eggs over their lifetime. They hatch in about three days.

Mites inhabit the underside of the leaf and are not readily apparent. The first indication of their presence is usually the sight of tiny brown spots circled by small yellow areas. These areas indicate sites where mites have used their proboscises to puncture the leaf surface and suck the plant's sweet juices. As the population increases they begin to build webs and can be seen commuting from one feeding area to the next.

If only one plant or one section of a plant seems to be infected or if a plant is much more infected than the others in the garden, wrap it in a plastic bag to prevent infecting the other plants as you remove it from the garden.

If your plants are growing vegetatively you have quite a few options. First you can wash them with a moderately vigorous spray to knock down the mite population. This will help the plants by lessening their loss of vital juices. Prepare a spray with a teaspoon of real soap such as Dr. Bronner's peppermint or eucalyptus liquid soap per gallon of water, or spray with Safer's horticultural soap to help dislodge and suffocate the pests. Mites are found on the underside of the leaves and must be sprayed there. If the plants are small or easy to handle it might be easier to dip them in the soapy water. Spraying can remove most but not all the mites, and it doesn't remove the eggs.

A small mite infection left unchecked is a temporary condition. So it is unwise to go into flowering with infected plants. The problem is that after the plants are one third of the way through flowering, two to three weeks, you want to avoid spraying with water or soapy water to wash off the suckers.

Mites must be eliminated before forcing or when they attack plants in the early stages of flowering. If not they will multiply with disastrous results. The skimpy buds will be low quality and covered with dead mites. It's not an enjoyable smoke.

Spraying can be used to control mites through the vegetative stage and for the first two or three weeks of flowering. However, other means must be used to get the plants to the zero tolerance level. By far the easiest method is to use an acceptable miticide.

There are several commercial miticides that can be used early in the season to kill mites.

Pyrethrum has been used to kill mites. It is a natural pesticide produced by a close relative of the chrysanthemum. The problem with using it is that many races of mites have developed immunity to it. However, it is the first miticide you should try.

Cinnamite comes as a concentrate that is diluted and sprayed on the plants. It contains a miticide derived from cinnamon oil. It is very safe and is rated least hazardous. It is quite effective but it doesn't kill the eggs. It should be used every three days for two weeks to make sure all the mites are killed soon after they hatch. It is a contact spray so plants should be dipped or sprayed on the leaf undersides. It is also effective against powdery mildew.

Neem oil is a natural miticide derived from the nuts of the Neem tree, which is found in India. It is a mite repellent as well, so some gardeners use it as a prophylactic, spraying it on a weekly basis. I mix neem oil with Cinnamite to eliminate small infections. Cinnamite and neem oil are also used against powdery mildew.

For growers who distrust anything commercial, try an "herbal tea" that acts as a miticide. To each quart of water use a tablespoon each of ground cinnamon, ground clove and 2 tablespoons of ground Italian seasoning. Heat the mixture until it starts to simmer, then turn off the heat. Add 2 tablespoons crushed fresh garlic when the water cools to warm. Let the tea sit until it cools. Strain and save the water using a cloth or coffee filter. Add a few drops of liquid soap or dishwashing liquid to the water. It is ready to be sprayed on the leaf undersides. After spraying the mites off with water, spray it on the leaf undersides. It will eliminate the mites if it is sprayed every three days after the wash. Within two weeks the mites will probably be gone.

Avid is a miticide registered for ornamental plants. Its active ingredient is abamectin, a derivative of a toxin originally found in soil bacteria. Avid is not registered for use on vegetables except in certain restricted situations. Other brands of abamectin such as AgriMek by Syngenta are registered for a wide range of crops. The AgriMek label calls for a minimum of a seven day wait between application and harvest. I wouldn't use marijuana if I knew it was treated with this pesticide during the last few weeks of flowering.

Some gardeners have reported success controlling mites using predatory mites or other predators. These carnivorous mites reach an equilibrium with the herbivorous mites, keeping damage to a bare minimum. I have tried introducing mixed species of predatory mites a few times but have never been satisfied with the results. They did not get the problem under control. However, they can work and some gardeners swear by them. I probably didn't provide them with the right conditions. There are also other predators that eat mites, but I have no experience using them.

Ultimately, the solution to the mite problem and the pest problem in general is to prevent the garden from becoming infected. Following certain simple rules will help:
Wear freshly washed clothes or change into a garden outfit when going into the garden.

Never work outdoors, especially in a garden or other vegetative or turf area right before working in your indoor garden.

Pests are frequently carried in on shoes. Do like Mr. Rogers and change your footwear before you enter the garden.

Don't use outdoor soil, tools or containers in the indoor garden

If a plant is to be introduced to the garden, first do a close examination and then put it in quarantine for five or six days. Examine it closely, especially the underside of leaves, before placing it in the garden.

Close up any unfiltered airways or holes through which plant pests might enter. Make sure that air intake from outside is filtered.

info by Ed Rosenthal

 

[Stix]

hope it helps GS. I never had to battle these things myself (knocks on wood). I also heard giving your room a BIG boost of co2 is suppose to kill off most pests in your garden. I'm not sure what the ppm is suppose to be. Maybe I'll see if I can look it up later. It's not really a practical remedy because most small growers don't use co2 anyway.

 

[Stix]

I definately read or seen a video that using a very large boost of co2 in your garden kills most pests. It wont harm your plants because you only do it for a short time. You must take precaution because using this much co2 can be harmful to yourself as well. I'll research it over the weekend and see what I can come up with.

 

[Stix]

lady bugs are known predators to the spider mites. Actually they are known predators to alot of pests that like to eat your MJ. Some garden centers actually sell lady bugs. If you can get your hand on some I would try them out too

 

[irelandbuds8]

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP GUYS. aWSOME INFORMATION THANK YOU

 

[RooRman]

Are they damaging the plants?

In my growroom, in the summer, I had many very small semi-clear spiders invading my growroom. But they were NOT spider mites, because they never touched my plants or laid any eggs, just spun annoying webs all over everything. They were just small spiders. But I still had to kill them to keep them from getting their webs on everything.

If you notice yellow spoting on the leaves or eggs nesting in the notches of the braches then you indeed have a spider mite problem.

 

[soma zone]

i like to use bug away from advanced nutrients even if idont have any problems but if you have already on going problem i would use cihexaestan 1gr per liter of water or 4 gr per gallon. remember to spray walls and all cracks because they always some hide away from trees as a way to continue and re qroup. if you sray twice should be more than enough another is reotonna but i dont like this that much theres something about the smell

 

[irelandbuds8]

Are they damaging the plants?

In my growroom, in the summer, I had many very small semi-clear spiders invading my growroom. But they were NOT spider mites, because they never touched my plants or laid any eggs, just spun annoying webs all over everything. They were just small spiders. But I still had to kill them to keep them from getting their webs on everything.

If you notice yellow spoting on the leaves or eggs nesting in the notches of the braches then you indeed have a spider mite problem.

I THINK YOUR RIGHT ABOUT MY SPIDERS THEY ARE NOT REALLY DOING MUCH TO THE PLANT I MEAN YEAH THERE ARE A COUPLE OF LEAVES THAT HAVE TURNED BROWN BUT I THINK ITS JUST THE HEAT CAUSE ITS ABOUT 85-90 ANYTIME THE LIGHTS ON IN MY GROW ROOM, THE SPIDERS HAVENT DONE ANYTHING TO THE PLANT AND NONE OF THEM ARE UNDER THE LEAVES THEY JUST SPIN WIERD WEBS ALL OVER THE PLACE.

 

[RooRman]

I THINK YOUR RIGHT ABOUT MY SPIDERS THEY ARE NOT REALLY DOING MUCH TO THE PLANT I MEAN YEAH THERE ARE A COUPLE OF LEAVES THAT HAVE TURNED BROWN BUT I THINK ITS JUST THE HEAT CAUSE ITS ABOUT 85-90 ANYTIME THE LIGHTS ON IN MY GROW ROOM, THE SPIDERS HAVENT DONE ANYTHING TO THE PLANT AND NONE OF THEM ARE UNDER THE LEAVES THEY JUST SPIN WIERD WEBS ALL OVER THE PLACE.

It sounds to me as if I was right too. As long as there is no major damage noticeable, and with spider mites it would be very apparent, then they are probably just what I would call "spiderlings". The leaves will show yellow spots and you should notice egg casings in the braches if they were spider mites.

I would fix that heat problem. It sounds like it is the dry heat created by your light that is virtually cooking your leaves until they are burnt and brown. Perhaps your light is placed too closely or you have inadequate air flow and ventillation through the room.

 

[irelandbuds8]

It sounds to me as if I was right too. As long as there is no major damage noticeable, and with spider mites it would be very apparent, then they are probably just what I would call "spiderlings". The leaves will show yellow spots and you should notice egg casings in the braches if they were spider mites.

I would fix that heat problem. It sounds like it is the dry heat created by your light that is virtually cooking your leaves until they are burnt and brown. Perhaps your light is placed too closely or you have inadequate air flow and ventillation through the room.

MY VENTILATION IS PRETTY GOOD, BUT IM AM GONNA PULL THE LIGHT UP FROM THE PLANT TONIGHT WHEN I GET HOME. tHANKS SO MUCH FOR ALL THE TIPS.