Red Stems
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209 Cali C.G
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post a pic if you can?
Fuzzy Duck
Well-Known Member
Have a read of this...
Phosphorus Deficiency
Cannabis PhosphorusGrowers are nowadays so obsessed with yield that a P deficiency has become less common. The market is overflowing with products that supposedly increase bud production. These chemical cocktails and organic wonder mixes are made with high levels of phosphorus. The trend to pump the plants full of a variety of "bud boosters", often at extremely high dosages (ie. EC levels), is generally of more concern than combating deficiency symptoms! The good news is that cannabis can store large amount of P in it's shoot and root tips and in the vascular tissue. But still, one should tread the middle path, as with all plant nutrients, and not overfeed the plants.
Phosphorus is required during all stages of plant development — especially during pronounced root and bud growth. It is necessary for photosynthesis and is a component of enzymes and proteins.
Causes:
Poor soil quality lacking sufficient amounts of phosphorus; loamy or waterlogged soil.
A pH imbalance will block nutrient uptake in the root zone. Make sure that you keep the pH within the acceptable range for soil or hydroponics (between 5.8 and 6.8).
Lack of fertilizing. A minimum of fertilizing on soil is usually necessary to boost plant growth, since cannabis tends to grow faster than the roots can assimilate the natural nutrients in soil. During flowering the phosphorus stored in the plant is gradually used up. Low to medium range dosages of a quality grade fertilizer are sufficient to prevent any serious P deficiency in the peak period of flowering if you cultivating on soil. In hydroponics the plants have a steady supply of readily available nutrients, so it is not necessary to increase EC levels and "force" plants to produce more buds. This can backfire and lead to over-fertilization with all it's accompanying problems. If you do want to give your plants more P without raising the EC level, then consider adding osmosis water to your tap water to lower the starting EC level. This way you can add some more fertilizer without affecting the regular EC level of the nutrient solution.
Over-fertilization. Too many salts in your medium will cause phosphate to become chemically bound and unavailable to the plants. In hydroponics you can flush the system. But in soil grows this is more of a problem since you will wash out important nutrients and cause the soil to become waterlogged.
Symptoms:
In young plants a deficiency slows growth. The plants are underdeveloped with a poor root zone and small bluish-green leaves.
In flowering plants the leaves turn reddish-purple. This generally starts at the leaf tips and spreads towards the leaf stem. Stems may also redden. In acute cases leaves turn necrotic and fall off.
Bud growth and yield will be below average if a deficiency sets in during early to mid-flowering.
Seeded plants will have less well developed seeds.
Lack of vigor and overall lack of mold and pest resistance.
Phosphorus Deficiency
Cannabis PhosphorusGrowers are nowadays so obsessed with yield that a P deficiency has become less common. The market is overflowing with products that supposedly increase bud production. These chemical cocktails and organic wonder mixes are made with high levels of phosphorus. The trend to pump the plants full of a variety of "bud boosters", often at extremely high dosages (ie. EC levels), is generally of more concern than combating deficiency symptoms! The good news is that cannabis can store large amount of P in it's shoot and root tips and in the vascular tissue. But still, one should tread the middle path, as with all plant nutrients, and not overfeed the plants.
Phosphorus is required during all stages of plant development — especially during pronounced root and bud growth. It is necessary for photosynthesis and is a component of enzymes and proteins.
Causes:
Poor soil quality lacking sufficient amounts of phosphorus; loamy or waterlogged soil.
A pH imbalance will block nutrient uptake in the root zone. Make sure that you keep the pH within the acceptable range for soil or hydroponics (between 5.8 and 6.8).
Lack of fertilizing. A minimum of fertilizing on soil is usually necessary to boost plant growth, since cannabis tends to grow faster than the roots can assimilate the natural nutrients in soil. During flowering the phosphorus stored in the plant is gradually used up. Low to medium range dosages of a quality grade fertilizer are sufficient to prevent any serious P deficiency in the peak period of flowering if you cultivating on soil. In hydroponics the plants have a steady supply of readily available nutrients, so it is not necessary to increase EC levels and "force" plants to produce more buds. This can backfire and lead to over-fertilization with all it's accompanying problems. If you do want to give your plants more P without raising the EC level, then consider adding osmosis water to your tap water to lower the starting EC level. This way you can add some more fertilizer without affecting the regular EC level of the nutrient solution.
Over-fertilization. Too many salts in your medium will cause phosphate to become chemically bound and unavailable to the plants. In hydroponics you can flush the system. But in soil grows this is more of a problem since you will wash out important nutrients and cause the soil to become waterlogged.
Symptoms:
In young plants a deficiency slows growth. The plants are underdeveloped with a poor root zone and small bluish-green leaves.
In flowering plants the leaves turn reddish-purple. This generally starts at the leaf tips and spreads towards the leaf stem. Stems may also redden. In acute cases leaves turn necrotic and fall off.
Bud growth and yield will be below average if a deficiency sets in during early to mid-flowering.
Seeded plants will have less well developed seeds.
Lack of vigor and overall lack of mold and pest resistance.
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Fuzzy Duck
Well-Known Member
There was some thing about Ph of hydroton pebbles straight out of the bag which may require a slight adjustment before using - you can do further research on this as it don't get mention to often.
Just food for thought...
To prepare your pebbles simply wash them in plain water and then soak them for 24hrs in a half strength grow solution with the pH lowered to around 4 using a good quality pH down solution. After 24hrs the pH of the pebbles will have risen slightly and be correct at around pH 5 to 6.
To reuse this medium simply sterilise the pebbles using water and liquid oxygen and repeat the process described above.
If the PH is jumping around lots, this needs to be addressed which could be creating a lock out.
The nutrient solution as it depletes in reserva becomes more acidic as it gets used up, regular daily checks for EC/PPM should be recorded with some enviromental factors which can relate to this a little bit whether the plant is using more water or nutrients effecting EC/PPM etc - thats some research for ya to do.
I would flush the reserva tank and put fresh nutrient solution in this should be done every 7 to days to prevent problems occuring, keeping a journal helps also.
Just food for thought...
To prepare your pebbles simply wash them in plain water and then soak them for 24hrs in a half strength grow solution with the pH lowered to around 4 using a good quality pH down solution. After 24hrs the pH of the pebbles will have risen slightly and be correct at around pH 5 to 6.
To reuse this medium simply sterilise the pebbles using water and liquid oxygen and repeat the process described above.
If the PH is jumping around lots, this needs to be addressed which could be creating a lock out.
The nutrient solution as it depletes in reserva becomes more acidic as it gets used up, regular daily checks for EC/PPM should be recorded with some enviromental factors which can relate to this a little bit whether the plant is using more water or nutrients effecting EC/PPM etc - thats some research for ya to do.
I would flush the reserva tank and put fresh nutrient solution in this should be done every 7 to days to prevent problems occuring, keeping a journal helps also.
- Thread starter
- #6
Fuzzy duck, or anyone
Hey just want add that I did a flush with RO water for around four days or so. Didn't seem to do anything wish I could show a pic but cant up load on phone. I also washed my hydroton before I used it. Do u know something else I could try.
Thank for any info
Hey just want add that I did a flush with RO water for around four days or so. Didn't seem to do anything wish I could show a pic but cant up load on phone. I also washed my hydroton before I used it. Do u know something else I could try.
Thank for any info
Fuzzy Duck
Well-Known Member
Which nutrients do you use & at what strength ?
Temperature of nutrient reserva ?
Cold temps may effect things a lil.
Temperature of nutrient reserva ?
Cold temps may effect things a lil.
Fuzzy Duck
Well-Known Member
The thing is preventive measures have taken place, the colour of leafs is not going to get better over a few days let alone weeks once the damage is all ready done !
But if exsisting measures have stopped further progression of the problem then we are getting some where...
After all we are working with extremely little details here, even tho you mention your PH to be jumping around which we can only assume the problem has arisen from.
Any recorded levels of PH from what it was or as low as it got or high ?
Micro/macro nutrients can get locked out because of PH which in turn can lock out others making the problem worse.
Oh water temp should be room temp or about 18c, cold water can shock roots & plants preventing nutrient uptake also.
But if exsisting measures have stopped further progression of the problem then we are getting some where...
After all we are working with extremely little details here, even tho you mention your PH to be jumping around which we can only assume the problem has arisen from.
Any recorded levels of PH from what it was or as low as it got or high ?
Micro/macro nutrients can get locked out because of PH which in turn can lock out others making the problem worse.
Oh water temp should be room temp or about 18c, cold water can shock roots & plants preventing nutrient uptake also.
- Thread starter
- #9
FrankFoster
New Member
Check you PH. and then check it again.
Old thread from 2012, except for Fuzzy Duck those others have moved on.
To help we need more info. What kind of soil? Are yiu feeding nutes? Do you have a cal-mag product?
some strains will have red or purple stems but it can also be a magnesium deficiency.
To help we need more info. What kind of soil? Are yiu feeding nutes? Do you have a cal-mag product?
some strains will have red or purple stems but it can also be a magnesium deficiency.
