Growin4myhead
New Member
Holy crap, I bought one of those point and shoot thermometers because I wanted to make sure my TRI-Meter was accurate. Why the hell didn't i just think of that!!!!
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Holy crap, I bought one of those point and shoot thermometers because I wanted to make sure my TRI-Meter was accurate. Why the hell didn't i just think of that!!!!
What you guys say about those digital PH meters when you can test the same waters 3 times and get 3 different readings.
Any meters or different protocols for solving this issue?
I always test with the probe in the res. Why do you take a sample out? It is the same water isn't it?Most times I see this, the grower is testing the water in the tank, instead of a sample. Always get 1/4 cup of water out of the tank, and test it out of the tank, in a cup or small container.
I always test with the probe in the res. Why do you take a sample out? It is the same water isn't it?
I always test with the probe in the res. Why do you take a sample out? It is the same water isn't it?
What you guys say about those digital PH meters when you can test the same waters 3 times and get 3 different readings.
Any meters or different protocols for solving this issue?
pH pens are very sensitive. Many of them take about 2 min to adjust for temperature and get an accurate reading. I use a 2 oz. shot glass.
Normally the pH changes anywhere from .3 to .6 points 5 min after the original reading when I stick the pen in the glass.
So to get an accurate reading take the sample, swirl the pen in the glass for a second and leave the pen still, sitting in the glass for 3-5 min. Allowing it time to adjust for temp. You'll be VERY surprised what your true pH is if you've been dipping in the res.
I wonder how many people bring lockout onto themselves and ride the pH roller coaster because they're adjusting the pH before they even know the actual reading.....
Are there any old school PH Drop Test users out there or is it just me.
I bet its just me lol. I have the PPM meter but that's it for confounded do dads lol
P.S (Post Script) The Internets a fad lol.
Exhaust control it plays a huge role. A volume of air that has a hot light and lots of water will become very hot and extremely humid within an hour if the air is not exchanged regularly under normal conditions. So, if you want to have high temps and humid air you can leave your tent sealed up under your 400w or 600w light (or use a fan controller for better results!) I mean like the walls will be wet humid if you just don't exchange the air - but they can't survive without gas exchange once they eat all the CO2.
Another great thread well done!
I recently got humidifiers for my areas and they are working great. One thing i've had to do is turn off the humidifier when i turn off my HID lights or the RH goes way up (90%+) and humidity usually just above. I also turn my cooling fans off at night(when the lights go off) so the CO2 will rise, so of course i wasn't thinking about the extra humidity at night lol live and learn. Now im going to get a photo sensitive electric socket to plug in all the things i'd like to go off when lights off.
By the way, I got the same humdifier thats listed from walmart for 26 bucks, for 24 bucks at walmart near me and im going back for the .99 cent stick on thermometer I can't believe i missed those looking at all the fish lol
Keep up the great work!
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