TheCapn's Ultimate Flowering Machine

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TheCapn

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If you've been following my thread on "simple hydroponics", you have seen the amazing results with a very basic top feed rockwool grow cubes setup.

In case you haven't read that thread, here's the simple set up: a top fed 5.8 gal container of rock wool grow cubes with 10 gallon reservoir. Immune to power outages, less prone to pythium, can leave your grow for a week at a time, inexpensive, easy to set up, the list goes on...
System A
setupA.jpg


And here's the results, 6th week of flower. This is a 4' x 4' SCROG. When complete, will average 12oz of finished product. Why does it work so well? We are flooding the root zone with nutrients every 6 hours, and the grow cubes allow plenty of oxygen inside the container. Simple and effective.
ACESimple.jpg


In that thread, you also saw a couple twists on the set up. Those two go beyond the scope of "simple hydroponics" a bit, because they allow roots to dangle down into the nutrient solution, which makes this a hybrid, Top Feed and "Deep water culture" grow method.

Still using the 5.8 gal container, set on top of a $10 storage 27 gal "tough tote". Home depot and Lowes both have a version of this box. System B
systemB.jpg


And using a larger, 10 gal media container, inside a 28 gallon garbage can. System C
systemC5.jpg


These two were set up a few weeks after system A.

Here is system B and C, three weeks onto flower. I am having to make "double decker" SCROG screens for them, as they are now 20" above the original screen.

SysB.jpg


sysC1.jpg


sysC2.jpg


What's different about these other two methods? As I said above, they are DWC / top feed - hybrid systems. Deep water culture, refers to the growing method where roots are growing right in highly oxygenated water, in no growing medium. Let's take a peek under these girl's skirts:

con2.jpg


con1.jpg


We must add large amounts of air into the reservoirs, in order to keep the roots (dangling in water) oxygenated. This adds some complications to the "simple" method A:

1. DWC is more prone to root rot or pythium. Aerobic bacteria will grow in a low oxygen environment. If this happens, it may attack your roots. Turning them from white to a dark brown mess in no time at all. Once this happens, forget about a remedy.

2. We now have to add a high volume air pump, and air stones. In these systems, I am running a dedicated Gen Hydro, $65 air pump for each system, and, 3, $4 air stones in each one. Air pumps are LOUD.

3. If the power goes out, the water quickly becomes depleted of oxygen.

4. More chance for human error. If your power goes out, your air lines can back syphon (if you don't elevate your pumps or use check valves) and flood your room. If one air line comes unhooked, all the air will take that path, and your plant will get no air. Let's say you TEMPORARILY unplug an air pump, in order to plug in something else, then forget about it... come back a couple days later to a pythium outbreak.

That said, it is no secret, DWC produces amazing growth rates. Roots dangle in oxygenated water, taking in as much as they need. If done correctly, plants grow faster, stems grow stronger, colas grow fatter, average yields are bigger. If you're willing to take the extra step to a DWC / top feed system, read on. In my next post, I'll show you how to make one of these kick a$$ hybrid systems for under $70, (not including air pump). "one pounders" are no problem in this system.
 
Here are the basics components you will need to build TheCapn's ultimate flowering machine.

$10. 27 gal tough box, aka tuff tote, available from home depot or lowes.
$5. 10" net pot designed to fit on 5 gallon bucket
$15. Small water pump
$17. 5.8 gal superoots air-pot
$10. 3' 1/2 hose, few misc PVC pic fittings for drip ring
$7. Gen Hydro water level indicator
?? High volume air pump, and 3-4 large air stones

Ultimate11.jpg


Cut a 10" diameter hole for the 10" net pot:
Ultimate21.jpg


Our final flowering container, with the netpot attached:
Ultimate3.jpg


Cut a few access holes so you can situate air stones, service water pump, etc. I use 4" netpots for lids to keep light out. Speaking of light, you will need to paint the lid with a dark primer to block light, and then a lighter color so it doesn't attract heat:
Ultimate5.jpg


Install your water level indicator, and put some white tape behind it so you can see water level in the blue hose easy:
Ultimate6.jpg


Here is what it looks like all put together
Ultimate7.jpg


The 10" netpot will hang down into the container, and be filled with hydroton. When you are getting ready to flower, you will attach the netpot to the air-pot, and your large plant will be transplanted into the 5.8 gal air-pot, full of grow-cubes (croutons).
Ultimate9.jpg


Why does this system work so well? In the first week of flower, roots growing out the sides of the air-pot will get dry and be "air pruned", spawning new feeder roots to grow. Within a week, as we continue to top feed, roots will grow out the bottom into the hydroton, and then dangle into the highly oxygenated water, pulling in nutrients. Typically, if we are going to go DWC in flower, we have to do DWC in veg too. With this setup, we literally take our plant out of veg where we top feed it, and then stick it on the tote. Within a week, it becomes DWC.

Other advantages and why I like this setup (which are common to the simple hydro set up):
The system holds roughly 12 gallons before it touches the bottom of the 10" net pot. This allows you to leave the system for at least a week. Don't try DWC in a 5 gallon bucket, unless you are flowering out really small plants.

Lots of water surface area in this 27 gal tub, more so than a standard bucket. This gives more area for roots to spread out and get oxygen.

27 gal tub, has more contact with floor. For me, the grow room is in the basement, so the concrete floor helps cool the water. Also allows you to get into the tub from access holes, to check root health, air stones, etc. And admit it... there is a "fun factor" to being able to peek at our roots.

The low profile of the tub helps keep plants lower.

In my next post, I'll show you the double decker 4' x 5' SCROG net being made for this.
 
Can't knock the systems capability but it seems top feeding an air pot will cause a lot of evaporation/humidity.
 
I understand what you're saying here, but the advantage is, top feeding air pots creates a great deal of oxygen in the root zone. The tiny increase in humidity is negligible, as long as you have air flowing in the grow room. Check out my "simple hydroponics" link in my signature.

 
I have been reading your simple Hydro thread and it is a good one. Have to give you credit for excellent articles.
 
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