I haven't flipped over the res i'm keeping my temps under control and their doesn't seem to be any problem at all. I think i'm just going to throw down the cash for a water chiller. Moving res out of room isn't really an option, my new problem today is my Co2 setup...the tank is about halfway full. when i hook it up to my regulator the adjustable ball doesn't move when i play with the adjustable knob on the regulator it just sits dead at the bottom. I set the ppm to 1200 on the monitor. I closed the tank then turned it back on an it made the ball move once an i set it correctly i just walked back in the room an hour later the ball is back dead to the bottom and the monitor says PPM is 1470 in the room. Does it just kick on when the ppms drop I feel like there should always be pressure there.....
Titan Controls: Flo N Gro Review
- Thread starter Xlr8
- Start date
Unreal first drop yours temp if possible! Try stay under 70 you will have better results!OK the orca and hygrozyme both contain live bacteria as soon as you add the h2o2 anything alive is dead same with Zone. What kind of setup do you run, and how big res? if it looks like the picture i have in the gallery its a bacteria cause by decaying matter and thrives in oxygen rich environment. H202 is oxidizer when it attaches to anything live it throws off oxygen as a by product it also strips the outer most surface of the roots and with high water temps mixed with high oxygen content mixed with roots dying from temps=slime.......DM zone has treated me good since started using and its nice you only add at water changes not every 3 days cleared it right up and I have never had better lookin root zone.
I flower my plants when they are 5 weeks into veg. i stay on a cycle so the height varies but generally they are between 20 and 24 inches tall measuring from the top of the medium up. Hope I was of some help check out my journal..''Titan Controls- Flo n Gro Pineapple Express First Journal'' type in search. Last appreciate the kudos
I have to speak up...........you are incorrect in your information that DM Zone kills the mycorrhizae, Corey of BPN Nutes and I did a test. We used his Blue Zone in a controlled grow (DM Zone) and then after the grow sent the roots from one of the plants to be tested. Zone does NOT kill mycorrhizae.
Before using the "Zone" I used H202 like everyone else. Never did ever notice a slime on my roots from using H202 unless it was also accompanied with root rot.
Hiker would be correct...... hygrozyme is all enzymes
I was running the H202 only during veg until Corey came back with the results of the Zone and causing no issue to the mycorrhizae. Now I run it all through out the grow. Plants seem to be loving life.
I was running into res temp issues until I figured something out. I have a HUGE 8' fresh air intake that brings cool air into the grow room to keep temps around 75. I used that fresh air intake and added vent hose to it and pointed it right at my res. Now the res temps stay nice and cool.........just a thought
Thanks Alaskan for popping in to clarify that I didnt think you had been active as of lately...that one day that my temps got up to 77 in the res i went to see Bob dylan the night before so it may have been sitting at that temp up to 48 hours that screwed me over....I mixed in 200 ml of zone into res with change on top of 5oz of H2o2 from 3 days ago when i found the growth in my res. I noticed my plant with the most mass had a tan tint to it not yet brown an you know how the roots will hook together with water an well it looks like a bit of slime but when i touch it it isnt slimy one bit. I feel like the best option for me is to get a chiller. I just emailed a guy on Craigslist about a 1/3 HP Current prime water chiller. It's from 2009 said he used it for 2 seasons but they come with lifetime warranties so im going to talk to him about it, he wants $300 firm. which seems fair to me im going to ask him about the paperwork and the warranty that is supposed to come with it.
I'm still around I just don't say much unless I feel the need the to speak up. Anyone can always message me. I'm always happy to help and will answer as quick as I can.
Glad to see you around AK1. You're the one that turned me on to the Zone. Thanks again 
Unreal, I don't think the res is getting warm from the light shining on it. Maybe a little, but it's mostly just from being in the room. The reservoir's water will eventually settle at the average of your temps. If days are 78 adn nights are 63, you're res will settle around 70F. If days are 90, and nights are 75, well.... you get the idea.
A chiller will certainly solve the problem, but you might just try wrapping the reservoir in insulation. If you can't move the reservoir, the chiller might be your only option. If you can cool the room to 75 daytime and 65 at night, you might be OK. Good luck!
I hear you about the initial cost to setup a full size hydro grow. I'm afraid to total up how much I've spent, but I know it will all come back.
Unreal, I don't think the res is getting warm from the light shining on it. Maybe a little, but it's mostly just from being in the room. The reservoir's water will eventually settle at the average of your temps. If days are 78 adn nights are 63, you're res will settle around 70F. If days are 90, and nights are 75, well.... you get the idea.
A chiller will certainly solve the problem, but you might just try wrapping the reservoir in insulation. If you can't move the reservoir, the chiller might be your only option. If you can cool the room to 75 daytime and 65 at night, you might be OK. Good luck!
I hear you about the initial cost to setup a full size hydro grow. I'm afraid to total up how much I've spent, but I know it will all come back.
Guys this Co2 is amazing I can't even believe it to be honest....An I went the first 3 weeks without it, i wonder where i would be at if not. Everything is going good here, i have 3 sets of frozen 2 liters I am cycling through my res that is keeping it at atleast 70 so far. I just figure if its like this now an i havent even put in my HPS bulbs then who knows the temps I'm going to reach. I am headed Wednesday evening to get my chiller 1/3 HP doesnt come with a pump thats a bummer so I'm assuming about $360 in cost. I couldnt pass up the deal. I am in hope that I am going to be able to finish flower into the 3rd week of June with just a water chiller an dehumidifier. If i have to hook up an air conditioner I can, i just have to make another run from the box but id rather not. the plan is to not be here for next grow.
During the summer it's almost impossible for me to keep the rooms cool so I just dim the ballasts and do the best I can. I am really starting to think about the CO2 but there are so many other things I really want to buy lol
Glad you have found the Zone to be useful Hiker. I tell everyone I know who grows in hydro that it's really a must have item just like a PH pen. Seems since Xlr8 is gone a good deal as of late I'll have to pick up where he left off with the Flo n Gro help. I really don't mind at all. Time is just limited.
Glad you have found the Zone to be useful Hiker. I tell everyone I know who grows in hydro that it's really a must have item just like a PH pen. Seems since Xlr8 is gone a good deal as of late I'll have to pick up where he left off with the Flo n Gro help. I really don't mind at all. Time is just limited.
- Thread starter
- #172
Hey guys - I've been dealing with some personal challenges lately, but hope to start easing my way back into things here. I'm thrilled to see the exchange of info and ideas here, and to see that the thread is alive and well without me around for a couple of weeks, with lots of good info shared. Thanks Alaskan1 for sharing your valuable and spot-on insight with things. Thanks to everyone who has contributed their learned experiences and sharing with others.
As mentioned, hygrozyme is not alive, Zone can work harmoniously with things like mycorrhizae if done right, etc. Reservoir temps being below 70f will cure a lot of root zone issues.
One last thing on h2o2, even though this was addressed well already... It does perform miracles at times when things are bad, but there's a caveat - it can also strip a bit of the outer layer of roots away in the process (it doesn't always discriminate well between bad and good organic material). Much depends on the dosage, but using h2o2 can be a double-edged sword in that it strips away the pathogens, but leaves the roots a bit weaker and more susceptible to them in the future. As mentioned, it's best use is for sterilizing and cleaning between grows -- or large emergencies in a "one use" sort of scenario. For example, I've used it to fix bad rot then immediately made sure my temps and issues were fixed and used "Zone" from there on out while the roots recovered from both the pathogen stress and stress of h2o2.
As mentioned, hygrozyme is not alive, Zone can work harmoniously with things like mycorrhizae if done right, etc. Reservoir temps being below 70f will cure a lot of root zone issues.
One last thing on h2o2, even though this was addressed well already... It does perform miracles at times when things are bad, but there's a caveat - it can also strip a bit of the outer layer of roots away in the process (it doesn't always discriminate well between bad and good organic material). Much depends on the dosage, but using h2o2 can be a double-edged sword in that it strips away the pathogens, but leaves the roots a bit weaker and more susceptible to them in the future. As mentioned, it's best use is for sterilizing and cleaning between grows -- or large emergencies in a "one use" sort of scenario. For example, I've used it to fix bad rot then immediately made sure my temps and issues were fixed and used "Zone" from there on out while the roots recovered from both the pathogen stress and stress of h2o2.
A quick question about the flo n gro....It says it uses up to 10 Amps...anyway you could explain this to me X...does it cap off during feeds or does it not pull off a full 10A? Im about to install a water chiller that runs at 5A....I have my 1000s on their own 220...but the Flo n Gro, 6 inch vortex, Air pump, Co2 Monitor/regulator, two fans and a 4 foot 8 bulb T5 are on the actual 15A in the room itself....im just afraid im gonna pop it adding the Water chiller...but then I was thinking if i put my water chiller on a timer to not go off during feed schedule of flo n gro system could I dodge it? I know your gonna tell me to just run more wire but im hoping my idea will work =)
how could a single pump use 10A!!!????!!!
Thank You! thats what I just stood in my room an was like fuck this. guy hooked me up today real impressed with this chiller. It only goes uphill from here gentlemen! Considering starting a journal soon. Im a noob im just topping an growing into a fat 6x8 double screen!!!
Well you have to remember that it's running a controlled timer as well as the pump. I'm sure Titan has left some room for error hence the 10 amp usage. I really doubt they use that much though.
good to see you around Xlr8. Hopefully things will be back to somewhat normal for you soon. I have had my own battles as of late but you already know about those. I'm popping on more often if I get a moment. More to help others then anything. really don't post in journals anymore and damn sure not going to start one anytime soon.
I was worried about popping breakers myself when I first plugged it all in and go figure when my a/c clicked on sure enough.... After that I ran the controller bucket on its own circuit... Also I am glad there are far more knowledgeable than I and caught my mistake. Next time I am asked for advice i will triple check what I am reading and add references to back up my findings. all in all I learned something again. So thanks again.
I'm sure they had a reason for that specification. Any electric motor will have an initial spike of current, so I am sure that's where the specification comes from. I just find it really hard to believe the spike from a tiny water pump would be drawing 10A. That's 1200W! I can't imagine the windings in the motor are even made of wire thick enough to handle this amount of power.
I'd do just like Ronnie did. Plug it into my accessory circuit and see what happens. As long as the motors are not malfunctioning, there should be little risk of a fire. I think the worst case would be the breaker trips everytime the pumps kick on.
Unreal, I think your solution of putting the chiller on a timer is a good one. That device will have a HUGE spike when it kicks on. I find it funny that the chiller is rated at 5A and the Flow & Grow says 10A. Does that vortex fan cycle on and off too, or is it on all the time? That will also cause a large spike. The spikes aren't a big deal on their own. They are a problem with they stack on top of each other, ie the chiller and the fan kick on at the same time. That's when breakers trip.
Good luck!
- Thread starter
- #180
I don't think the F&G actually uses anywhere close to 10 amps, but electricity is not my strong suit. My guess is they are hedging on the safe side, but I'm really the wrong guy to ask on that one... I was running it with (2) 400w lights and fans, exhaust, airpumps etc. on 20 amps no problem - but I can't say for sure it was a good idea. Never tripped a breaker, though.
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