What is a strain for best mold resistance?

[Phillybonker]

My current outdoor plants are going moldy because it is getting colder and the morning dew is staying on the buds longer. The plants are in a area that has relatively poor air flow and the sun doesn't get to them till later in the day because of the trees in the way, so they stay wet for longer.

I'd like to know what is a good strain that has high mold resistance so I know for next time?

 

[Reave]

I learned recently that there is a leaf testing kit you can use to test if a plant is resistant to powdery mildew. It’s a gene they carry. With a PCR testing kit you can tell all kinds of genetic traits early.

Northern lights would be a good choice though it’s quite durable.

 

[bobrown14]

PM will take over outdoors this time of year.

PM actually likes dry weather thats when they take hold on the plants. When you see the white stuff its actually already well established.

Rain will wash it off and the sun will bake it off. late in the season the sun intensity isn't as strong in fall (lower in the sky).

Best to run early finishers that can be harvested now or last week in southern hemisphere. That wood be the same as end of September here.

>60 day flowering plants.

Longer runners you can foliar on some wetable sulfur..... its only gonna be a temp fix.
PM needs to be treated for all thru the grow since the spores are around in the beginning of the season and get spread with wind and hoo-man. Then when conditions improve for them they take off and thats what you're seeing. PM is a fungi.

Botrytus or bud rot is a mold. You can spray with mild solution h2o2 but once you see it it's already doing damage. I just cut out the infected parts and with clean tools and hands and toss in fire of garbage the infected plant parts. Then spray with a weak h2o2 solution.

Be careful not to touch other plants with dirty tools or hands after surgery.

 

[Phillybonker]

Best to run early finishers that can be harvested now or last week in southern hemisphere. That wood be the same as end of September here.

>60 day flowering plants.

I can only get these plants to 35 days flowering before botrytis sets in. I'm going to need a strong mold resistant strain
and then hope for the best.

 

[SmokingWings]

PM will take over outdoors this time of year.

PM actually likes dry weather thats when they take hold on the plants. When you see the white stuff its actually already well established.

Rain will wash it off and the sun will bake it off. late in the season the sun intensity isn't as strong in fall (lower in the sky).

Best to run early finishers that can be harvested now or last week in southern hemisphere. That wood be the same as end of September here.

>60 day flowering plants.

Longer runners you can foliar on some wetable sulfur..... its only gonna be a temp fix.
PM needs to be treated for all thru the grow since the spores are around in the beginning of the season and get spread with wind and hoo-man. Then when conditions improve for them they take off and thats what you're seeing. PM is a fungi.

Botrytus or bud rot is a mold. You can spray with mild solution h2o2 but once you see it it's already doing damage. I just cut out the infected parts and with clean tools and hands and toss in fire of garbage the infected plant parts. Then spray with a weak h2o2 solution.

Be careful not to touch other plants with dirty tools or hands after surgery.

Philly, as Bobrown brings up, by the time you notice any common mold or mildew on your plants the stuff has been there for about 30 days, maybe a bit longer. If you get your plants to 35 days into flowering before the problem starts to show then you have to jump on the prevention a couple of weeks before flowering.

Spray the plants with something acidic like an apple cider vinegar & water or a milk & water mix. Spray on the plants every couple of days. The molds will release their spores on dry, low humidity days and the breeze will carry those spores until they fall to the ground or land on a plant leaf. Least bit of moisture on the leaf and the spore will stick and start growing. The spores will not latch onto the leaf if there is a minor acid surface. When the air is humid or it has been raining or heavy dew overnight the molds and mildews grow until they can release their own spores.

Some of the general gardening web sites will get into more detail on mixes that can be sprayed and the ways that the molds spread.

 

[bobrown14]

IF you're suffering from mold/botrytis get strains that grow like nugs instead of large colas.

Cookies and variants are nugs. I've ran plenty of them never got mold on em.

Mold is more dependent on weather. Prolly any of your local landrace strains are mold resistant for sure.

So look for strains with long internodal spacing.

You can foliar on wetable sulfur to keep it outta the plants. Need to start early with it also another treatment is horticultural soap in VEG.

 

[Phillybonker]

Philly, as Bobrown brings up, by the time you notice any common mold or mildew on your plants the stuff has been there for about 30 days, maybe a bit longer. If you get your plants to 35 days into flowering before the problem starts to show then you have to jump on the prevention a couple of weeks before flowering.

Spray the plants with something acidic like an apple cider vinegar & water or a milk & water mix. Spray on the plants every couple of days. The molds will release their spores on dry, low humidity days and the breeze will carry those spores until they fall to the ground or land on a plant leaf. Least bit of moisture on the leaf and the spore will stick and start growing. The spores will not latch onto the leaf if there is a minor acid surface. When the air is humid or it has been raining or heavy dew overnight the molds and mildews grow until they can release their own spores.

Some of the general gardening web sites will get into more detail on mixes that can be sprayed and the ways that the molds spread.

Thanks for the advice and insight. Much appreciated.

 

[Phillybonker]

IF you're suffering from mold/botrytis get strains that grow like nugs instead of large colas.

Cookies and variants are nugs. I've ran plenty of them never got mold on em.

Mold is more dependent on weather. Prolly any of your local landrace strains are mold resistant for sure.

So look for strains with long internodal spacing.

You can foliar on wetable sulfur to keep it outta the plants. Need to start early with it also another treatment is horticultural soap in VEG.

I'll look into cookies and cookie crosses. Thanks