Auto Flower PAR value chart

Thx kindly @Emilya
Just to let you know I’ve read quite a few of your postings and respect your knowledge!
I discovered the Geo Flora from you. Ckd out the product, read all about it & t’s now here. Veg about to be mixed in w/soil that will end up in 5gl RainScience containers. Got the Dynomyco also. ✌️
 
@Emilya
Hoping you can please advise. When seedlings are ready to transplant (I know now Autos should start in forever home out of the gate but... here I am) I will use Dynomyco in bottom of planting hole.
Question: Before placing rootball in hole on top of the Dyno would dusting the rootball first with Azos beneficial bacteria be a good thing?
TIA ✌️
 
@Emilya
Hoping you can please advise. When seedlings are ready to transplant (I know now Autos should start in forever home out of the gate but... here I am) I will use Dynomyco in bottom of planting hole.
Question: Before placing rootball in hole on top of the Dyno would dusting the rootball first with Azos beneficial bacteria be a good thing?
TIA ✌️
Hi Hap,
The Azos sounds like a good idea, certainly more beneficial bacteria are going to be helpful. Consider though that this is just one leg of a 3 legged stool, bacteria, fungi and microbes, so although helpful, your organic grow is still not going to be complete without the microbes that come in with the Geoflora.

I know it seems all the rage right now to start autos in their final container, but this is simply marketing hype to help them sell autos, an inferior product by definition because one side of its genetics is Ruderalis and by definition it has to have less THC than its regular counterpart. They sell autos to the gullible public because it increases revenue... they can't be cloned, most sales are feminized seeds, and most consumers have to come back over and over again for more seeds. They have convinced the public that they are easier to grow, faster, use less nutes, no transplanting... but its all hype. A plant is a plant is a plant. All plants are better with a good rootball. The only way to make a good rootball is to constrict the size of the planter in the early stages, and then build up from there. With autos, it just is done faster. There is a myth, again to promote Autos, that transplanting shocks the plant and hurts your yield. Don't believe the lies. You have done well start the way you did, and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. If I believed in growing Auto plants, I would uppot my plants several times and would ignore the marketing hype and not listen to the zombies who parrot these myths online.
 
Hi Hap,
The Azos sounds like a good idea, certainly more beneficial bacteria are going to be helpful. Consider though that this is just one leg of a 3 legged stool, bacteria, fungi and microbes, so although helpful, your organic grow is still not going to be complete without the microbes that come in with the Geoflora.

I know it seems all the rage right now to start autos in their final container, but this is simply marketing hype to help them sell autos, an inferior product by definition because one side of its genetics is Ruderalis and by definition it has to have less THC than its regular counterpart. They sell autos to the gullible public because it increases revenue... they can't be cloned, most sales are feminized seeds, and most consumers have to come back over and over again for more seeds. They have convinced the public that they are easier to grow, faster, use less nutes, no transplanting... but its all hype. A plant is a plant is a plant. All plants are better with a good rootball. The only way to make a good rootball is to constrict the size of the planter in the early stages, and then build up from there. With autos, it just is done faster. There is a myth, again to promote Autos, that transplanting shocks the plant and hurts your yield. Don't believe the lies. You have done well start the way you did, and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. If I believed in growing Auto plants, I would uppot my plants several times and would ignore the marketing hype and not listen to the zombies who parrot these myths online.
Well I guess they got me as one of the gullible public. LOL
Can’t say I disagree w/any of your points about the autos. It’s my 1st time trying them out but... Thx for making me think
I do I have the Geo Flora both Veg and Bloom. Since what I had on hand was FFOF, i’m using that w/3to1 perlite. I have pumice on hand too, I was thinking of subbing that for perlite when prepping the larger final containers . Thoughts?
Since I’m in Ocean Forest would you still advise using the Geo Flora Veg as soon as I transplant? Concern is about the nutrient rich hot factor w/OF early on.
@Emilya Thx for your help over here in western MO! ✌️
 
Well I guess they got me as one of the gullible public. LOL
Can’t say I disagree w/any of your points about the autos. It’s my 1st time trying them out but... Thx for making me think
I do I have the Geo Flora both Veg and Bloom. Since what I had on hand was FFOF, i’m using that w/3to1 perlite. I have pumice on hand too, I was thinking of subbing that for perlite when prepping the larger final containers . Thoughts?
Since I’m in Ocean Forest would you still advise using the Geo Flora Veg as soon as I transplant? Concern is about the nutrient rich hot factor w/OF early on.
@Emilya Thx for your help over here in western MO! ✌️
Well, you are not the only one and the hype is everywhere... its hard not to get sucked in. Some autos are decent enough, but the photoperiod versions would be better in skilled hands. You will get there... regular photoperiods are fun to work with, and once you start messing with boys and girls, then you can generate your own seeds and totally get away from the hype. Its a process, and you are starting out just fine.

Never mind what they say about your FFOF being so strong... I use the same stuff, but I put an even stronger soil in the bottom third of all of my containers, SuperSoil... and then on top of all of that, I start feeding my plants with Geoflora in their first week above ground. Don't be afraid of your fertilizer... it is how you make big plants. Growing weeds is no time to be timid. 3:1 perlite is a bit much, most recommend about 20%. Pumice is even better because it holds up longer and provides the same sort of benefit that perlite does.

So it sounds like we are neighbors. I am in west central Missouri in one of the communities near 50hwy. Welcome to the neighborhood!
 
Well, you are not the only one and the hype is everywhere... its hard not to get sucked in. Some autos are decent enough, but the photoperiod versions would be better in skilled hands. You will get there... regular photoperiods are fun to work with, and once you start messing with boys and girls, then you can generate your own seeds and totally get away from the hype. Its a process, and you are starting out just fine.

Never mind what they say about your FFOF being so strong... I use the same stuff, but I put an even stronger soil in the bottom third of all of my containers, SuperSoil... and then on top of all of that, I start feeding my plants with Geoflora in their first week above ground. Don't be afraid of your fertilizer... it is how you make big plants. Growing weeds is no time to be timid. 3:1 perlite is a bit much, most recommend about 20%. Pumice is even better because it holds up longer and provides the same sort of benefit that perlite does.

So it sounds like we are neighbors. I am in west central Missouri in one of the communities near 50hwy. Welcome to the neighborhood!
Cool! So. of the i70 for me.
Not my 1st time ever growing, just 1st time doing Auto’s.
Use to have a small scene in southern humboldt portion of the emerald triangle. Behind the redwood curtain as we liked to say. Anyhoo gave up growing in ‘09 due to, ahem... entanglements. Purple Urkel was the rage there back in the day and easy growing w/hefty weight.
Started a room earlier this year and had some problems and a failure which really put me aback because I thought, aah this will be like riding a bike. Except I fell off the bike. I got overenthusiastic, made some mistakes like overwatering and a couple other little hiccups...
Believe I’m on the right path again now.
✌️
 
It's been a bit since I posted and I'd not normally poke my nose back in but this is something I've never seen before and it goes to the title for this thread.

I've advocated "high" light levels and I've had my seedlings/plants at a DLI of 25. They plants have responded well, so well that I forgot about plants growing into the light. At the low hang height that I'm using (12" maybe), by not paying attention to the plant growth, I caused some "temporary stress" for one plant.

The photos that I've attached are date and time stamped. In the first photo, to the right of center you will see a leaf whose edges disappears. That's the photopropism (?) or photo avoidance response. When I saw that, I took a light reading for the plant and then raised the light to reduce the PPFD. The reading, though I didn't note it, was > 500 µmols and the plant reacted by turning a leaf to avoid the incoming photons. By the time of that photo, the plant had had that light level for about 10 hours.

About 25 minutes after that, the leaf had rotated significantly back to horizontal and, another 25 minutes or so, and the leaf appears to have returned to normal.

So, as much as I believe in giving plants a lot of light, I also have now have a really close brush with stepping over the edge. Right now, the grow is at a DLI of 25 and responding very well.


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