CBD Skunk Haze From Uruguay

[Antics]

You can start LST as soon as your branches are long enough to bend. (5-7.5cm should be good)

Just don't tie a knot around the branch. Tie your string so it has a loop at the end. And just pretend you are threading a needle with the other end, and slide the big loop on your branch where you want it, and attach the other end of the string to the pot with paperclips or something.

Pipe Cleaners also work well, and are faster to adjust. They also work well with paperclips on the edge of the pots

 

[Pablo Tesla]

Thanks my friend!

 

[KingJohnC]

You can see examples of how I use Low Stress Training and Topping in my KingJohnC's 400 Watt LA Confidential Seed Cabinet Soil Indoor Grow Journal and my KingJohnC's Brainstorm Haze Soil Indoor Grow Journal.

 

[Pablo Tesla]

I need some help.

I don't know if my plant is been overfeeding. I'm following Plagron schedule, but she seems to be too green, like a dark olive green color. Maybe is normal for this strain, or it could be a nitrogen toxicity. I'm feeding with an EC=1.7 mS/cm
Any help is welcome!
This pictures were taken under natural sunlight.

 

[Antics]

It doesn't look too bad right now to be honest.

If you look closely, there are a few leaf tips curling down a bit though. So I think you're right. Are you using a multi-part nute system where you can mix different levels of each?

 

[Pablo Tesla]

I'm using a multi-part nute: plagron coco a & b.
I've already flushed it and I'm waiting a couple of days to start feeding again, obviously less!
Should I wait longer?

 

[Antics]

Ahh ok I see the Plagron now.

Cocos A:

water, calcium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, potassium nitrate.
NPK (4-0-1).
3.9% Total nitrogen (N) of which 3.9% nitrate nitrogen (NO 3 ),
1% water-soluble potassium oxide (K 2 O),
4.5% Calcium (Ca).

Cocos B:

Water, magnesiumulfaat, magnesium nitrate, mono potassium phosphate, phosphoric acid.
NPK (1-4-2).
1% Total nitrogen (N) of which 1% nitrate nitrogen (NO 3 ),
4.1% water-soluble phosphorus pentoxide (P 2 O 5 ),
2.4% water-soluble potassium oxide (K 2 O).

In your position, I'd do what I'm actually going to do at my next feeding. (I have dark leaves, and mild curling also). I'm going to cut back on my heaviest Nitrogen nute, and feed the rest as normal.

A coco grower might be better to advise you, but that's the obvious answer for me, I'm just going to reduce the nitrogen level in the nutes.

 

[Pablo Tesla]

Thanks Antics!

Yesterday I sent an email to plagron:

"I've noticed a nitrogen toxicity on my plants. They are six weeks old, from seed, and I've been following the plagron coco schedule.
I'd like to know if it's recommendable to reduce the amount of coco A and which ratio should I use."

And the answer was:

"Week one in the grow schedule starts with a rooted cutting (similar with a 10 day old seedling). When you have a younger seedling (for example a few days old) the advised quantities of Cocos A&B can lead to overfertilisation.
You should rinse your substrate with water until the drain water has an EC around 2,0. Start the grow schedule in the right week of flowering. If you want to give less Cocos A&B you should still have a 1:1 Cocos A and Cocos B ratio.

I hope I provided you with sufficient information. Please feel free to email me again if you have more questions."


At least they have a very good costumer service! it's not my first email..

 

[Antics]

Ah I'm glad you asked someone who would know better lol. I would have felt like shit if you took my advice and things went downhill.

As far as my soil nutes go, from seedling to flower the amounts you use of Micro, Grow, and Bloom all vary with each stage of growth, so I shouldn't have problems with the reduced nutes I fed today.

It's nothing major to worry about now anyways since you caught it early, so it's an easy fix. Same thing for me, if you look at my pictures they're a little darker green than normal, and it's hard to tell in the pictures, but I have a few leaf tips curling down a little bit.

Keep kicking ass on your grow!

 

[Pablo Tesla]

Updating...

There are some pre-flowers, they've appeared one week after I've change the light period.
The plant is very bushy, but I don't see any reason to remove any leaf yet. Humidity is not a problem right now, and the plant starts to stretch.
And there are roots all around the pot. I don't want to make another transplant.
Suggestions are always welcome!

 

[Pablo Tesla]

Ok,

For me now starts the best part: waiting...
The plant went trough the vegetative period very well. No deficiencies, no pests, no big problems and so far a good growth. She has been very brave!
The flowers start to show her faces, the crop and lst worked good and there is six tops at the same level.
This strain has a flowering period of about ten weeks. She is at day 10.

Some of the leaves are pointing down, because of the fridge door when closed.

Counting down!

 

[Antics]

How wide is the stem? It looks about 2cm diameter.

Both my plants are about half that.. 1cm diameter.

 

[Pablo Tesla]

Good morning!!

I just measure it and it has 1.5 cm. The seed descriptions said it a tall but also a self supporting plant, so I should expect a wide steam.
I removed some of the leaves from the bottom, the plant is very bushy, and lot of then are in the shadow... I'm quite confused about defoliation, I don't know what to do...
Have a good day!

 

[Antics]

Defoliation seemed difficult to me at first also. Its confusing and intimidating.

But not when you think about the basics, it seemed to make it easier for me.

The whole reason behind defoliation, is to allow light to get to as many bud sites as possible. BUT, those big fan leaves store nutrients, and the leaves help the plant take in CO2, give off oxygen, and give off excess water. They are also where photosynthesis takes place.

So you need the leaves, but they block bud sites from getting light. So the first thing I did was slowly turned the pot while looking at the canopy from above at different angles. When I found a place where fan leaves would block light, I tried to move the leaf, and tuck it underneath the budsite. Of all the leaves that block bud sites, most of them I am able to simply tuck out of the way. I like to go over my plants each day to make sure the light can get to all of my bud sites. The fan can sometimes knock them loose, and sometimes just the growing plant lets them untuck themselves.

After I tuck in as many leaves as possible, I turn the pot slowly again, still looking from above and I find the leaves that can't be tucked out of the way. Those are the leaves I cut off. I use sharp sterilized scissors, and I have never removed more from 2 plants than I can easily fit into 1 hand.

And most of the time the leaf that gets cut off is the one that faces in, towards the stem. The leaves on the sides, and front usually can be tucked out of the way.

 

[Pablo Tesla]

Thanks Antics!

I decided to do a light defoliation. I prefer to think on the leaves like a solar panel, and in flowering period is wen it's most need energy. I follow your advices, but lightly. ::
I also removed then only with my hands, no scissors. I watched this:
and I like the way the leaves come out, seems to be more "natural".

Thanks again!

 

[Antics]

Very informative video, thanks for sharing!

 

[KingJohnC]

I have a much different understanding of defoliation applied at the proper time line to enhance vegetative growth and flowering. You can see examples of how I defoliate and train my plants in my Grow Journals and Reviews. I would defoliate in vegetative growth 7-10 days before flowering to remove excess fan leaves and open more light to branches and nodes that become bud sites and colas. I defoliate in vegetative growth by removing any fan leaves that are excessively shading the branches and nodes to encourage the nodes to grow larger and produce more colas. I use Low Stress Training to tie the branches of my plants to the outer edge of the rim of the pots and each branch becomes its own bud site and cola. When I defoliate in preparation for flower I leave no more then 4 fan leaves at each growing top and remove the majority of the fan leaves, any fan leaf that shades a top and lower growth, this is a perfect time to select cuttings to root as clones from the plants you are about to place into flower. I defoliate in flower at days 21-25 of flower when the stretch phase has ended by removing lower growth that will not produce anything except for popcorn bud and any fan leaf that shades a bud site and again if required at day 45.

KingJohnC's 400 Watt LA Confidential Seed Cabinet Soil Indoor Grow Journal

KingJohnC's Brainstorm Haze Soil Indoor Grow Journal

KingJohnC's Lush Lighting LED Dominator 2x Soil Indoor Grow Journal & Review

You may also want to check out Bassman59's post about defoliation.

@Bassman59

Increasing yield with defoliation indoors: What's it mean? How to do it?

 

[Pablo Tesla]

Just a couple of pictures.
Have a good weekend!!

 

[Antics]

Looking good man!

 

[Pablo Tesla]

Hello my friends, updating...

Today start de 4th week of flowering (total of 10 or 11 ) She still has a long way to go!
This strain has a slow blossoming, and she keeps stretching.
I began to add a boom stimulator: Plagron green sensation. I've used it on my last grow and I had good results.
Some pics:

Namaste!