First Grow, Auto Northern Lights, 40x40x120

[Rexer]

Thanks for jumping in MochaBud, I'm not too bad when it comes to one thing that's off, but didn't want to mess up someone's grow. I understand all too well how much it means to Budpacient.

Budpacient another thing to consider is a small fan to help with air circulation under the plants, a small usb fan would probably help wonders to keep the moisture off the leaves. Try and point it in different directions till you find that sweet spot. I actually flipped my tower fan horizontally, right now I'm using cables to suspend it. I'm planning on mounting it directly into the wall with it going in an up/down direction, instead of the traditional left/right. Since flipping it the water on the leaves have dissapeared.

 

[DarrenAdam420]

Don't worry about that, they're pretty resilient...Here's a scrog I started to feed too late and the leaves were turning yellow..

Blackberry Gum Scrog @ 4 wks

• MochaBud
• Apr 22, 2020

But then I double dosed her (twice the feed) and she was fine

Blackberry Gum @5.5 wks

• MochaBud
• May 4, 2020

2 plant scrog

Wow, those look beautiful! Thanks for the support. I'm sure that my girls will look better in a couple of days with all the tips that you guys gave me

Happy grows

 

[MochaBud]

Wow, those look beautiful! Thanks for the support. I'm sure that my girls will look better in a couple of days with all the tips that you guys gave me

Happy grows

Thank you And don't worry, from what I've seen from this forum is EVERYONE wants you to succeed, we'll have you growing premo buds before you know it

 

[DarrenAdam420]

Thanks for jumping in MochaBud, I'm not too bad when it comes to one thing that's off, but didn't want to mess up someone's grow. I understand all too well how much it means to Budpacient.

Budpacient another thing to consider is a small fan to help with air circulation under the plants, a small usb fan would probably help wonders to keep the moisture off the leaves. Try and point it in different directions till you find that sweet spot. I actually flipped my tower fan horizontally, right now I'm using cables to suspend it. I'm planning on mounting it directly into the wall with it going in an up/down direction, instead of the traditional left/right. Since flipping it the water on the leaves have dissapeared.

Thanks for the recommendations. I actually moved my grow next to the balcony and i keep the door open so that the warm dry air from outside comes to the grow to lower the humidity. I keep my exhaust fan 24/7 and i recently added, like you suggested, a small computer fan that i had laying around, connected it to a 12v power supply from an old hard drive and has been working pretty well since then. The thing is that when one leaf stays on top of another for too long, when i move it the one below has a lot of condensation on top of it, no fan can save that, i need to manually pay attention and defoliate. Once again, very grateful for the help @Rexer

 

[MochaBud]

Thanks for jumping in MochaBud, I'm not too bad when it comes to one thing that's off, but didn't want to mess up someone's grow. I understand all too well how much it means to Budpacient.

Budpacient another thing to consider is a small fan to help with air circulation under the plants, a small usb fan would probably help wonders to keep the moisture off the leaves. Try and point it in different directions till you find that sweet spot. I actually flipped my tower fan horizontally, right now I'm using cables to suspend it. I'm planning on mounting it directly into the wall with it going in an up/down direction, instead of the traditional left/right. Since flipping it the water on the leaves have dissapeared.

You're welcome bud, that's what we're here for right to help each other and don't worry with time comes wisdom, I'm still waiting for mine cuz no 1 person knows, or has seen it all, that's why we come here, to learn

 

[StoneOtter]

Hey guys, a new update on the ladies. They are on their first week on flower so there is not much to see yet in terms of bud. They look healthy overall except for a few visual clues that might indicate nutrients and calcium deficiency. I started to feed them a few days ago, i did not wanted to do it before they actually required it because most of the mistakes that i saw beginners do is feed / water their plants to death, so im trying very hard to avoid that (too hard maybe?). Look at them and let me see what you think.

@Rexer any inputs?

Hi BudPatient, looks like it needs calcium seeing the spots. Also magnesium from seeing the light color between the leaf veins. Got any cal/mag? Look for those things in the Plant problem solver in my signature to make sure you agree and possible other culprits.

 

[DarrenAdam420]

Hey guys, quick update. I was going to feed the girls and decided to look at the package again, looks like i have been feeding them 1/5 of the recommended doses, i was completely off! That should explain the issues, also i ran my PH tests again (with my very rudimentary but very cheap kit) and GOOD NEWS with the tap water and nutrient solution it falls perfectly in the 6-6.5 range!

A word of appreciation to all that helped, i will make sure to post a picture of the healthy girls really soon! @Rexer @stoneotter @MochaBud

Tap water: 7.0-7.5 PH

Nutrient solution: 4 PH

Both mixed: 6-6.5 PH

 

[MochaBud]

Hey guys, quick update. I was going to feed the girls and decided to look at the package again, looks like i have been feeding them 1/5 of the recommended doses, i was completely off! That should explain the issues, also i ran my PH tests again (with my very rudimentary but very cheap kit) and GOOD NEWS with the tap water and nutrient solution it falls perfectly in the 6-6.5 range!

A word of appreciation to all that helped, i will make sure to post a picture of the healthy girls really soon! @Rexer @stoneotter @MochaBud

Tap water: 7.0-7.5 PH

Nutrient solution: 4 PH

Both mixed: 6-6.5 PH

Hey @BudPacient aren't you in coco? PH is different for coco, hempy, and hydro...

Plants grown in coco coir need a pH level ranging from 5.5 to 6.3, depending on the life stage of the plants. Normally, pH is adjusted to 5.5 - 5.8 during growth and 6.0 - 6.3 during bloom, which helps the plant to assimilate the most demanded nutrients at each stage. ...Oh yeah and if you're in coco they need to be watered once or twice a day, with cal-mag and maybe a low dose of nutrients

 

[DarrenAdam420]

Hey @BudPacient aren't you in coco? PH is different for coco, hempy, and hydro...

Plants grown in coco coir need a pH level ranging from 5.5 to 6.3, depending on the life stage of the plants. Normally, pH is adjusted to 5.5 - 5.8 during growth and 6.0 - 6.3 during bloom, which helps the plant to assimilate the most demanded nutrients at each stage. ...Oh yeah and if you're in coco they need to be watered once or twice a day, with cal-mag and maybe a low dose of nutrients

I'm in soil, when i started i did not knew about coco and perlite, i have it ready for the next run but this one is in some potting soil from the supermarket. I will save your advise on PH for my next grow, im sure it will come in handy

 

[MochaBud]

I'm in soil, when i started i did not knew about coco and perlite, i have it ready for the next run but this one is in some potting soil from the supermarket. I will save your advise on PH for my next grow, im sure it will come in handy

I've dabbled a bit in all types of growing, and I find a good soil is not only best for taste and potency, but can also help with buffering PH and giving the nutrients that growing cannabis plants need...that's why I usually recommend Fox Farms soils, the Happy Frog or the Ocean Forest (what I use) and their nutrient line...easy to follow and great results, just check out my garden all water and feed, absolutely no PHing of anything...haven't found anything better for this old man

 

[DarrenAdam420]

I've dabbled a bit in all types of growing, and I find a good soil is not only best for taste and potency, but can also help with buffering PH and giving the nutrients that growing cannabis plants need...that's why I usually recommend Fox Farms soils, the Happy Frog or the Ocean Forest (what I use) and their nutrient line...easy to follow and great results, just check out my garden all water and feed, absolutely no PHing of anything...haven't found anything better for this old man

That is actually a great recommendation, having a great soil that will give you nutrients for most of the grow, retain enough water so that you don't need to water that often and allowing you to water with a large PH range is really amazing. Unfortunately the big downside for me is getting hold of that kind of soil, its hard to get it where i live and soil is very heavy so getting it shipped to my house is VERY EXPENSIVE, i pay more for the shipping than the soil. Coco and perlite are very light and completely reusable so it is a one time purchase. I will give it a shot and decide based on the outcome

By the way i checked your pot grow, amazing stuff! Beautiful pot, i would love to see an update picture. Usually outdoor grows attract a lot of bugs but i would be surprised if bugs were able to affect that grow

 

[StoneOtter]

Good findings BP!

 

[DarrenAdam420]

I opened a new thread to ask for help on one of the plants that is looking VERY BAD (Mysterious problem) and after doing some digging i think that i have a case of rusty mites, really nasty stuff

I did not wanted to believe that i had bugs because i keep in so clean and isolate, also because i saw nothing in the leaves this bastards are now visible with the naked eye.

I ended up cutting the most affected parts on one of the plants (top part, lower part is almost unnafected) and spraying them with cinnamon extract.

Hopefully i will not loose everything to a pest after coming this far

 

[StoneOtter]

Ouch, mites. I saved this, can't say if it is helpful, but I hope so. I haven't had them so far. Knock on skull.

Hello n help

Hello I am new here this is my second time growing but my first time using soil I started to see these little mites they seems to be on the top of the soilthey do not harm the plants in any way that I can see if anybody can confirm that these are beneficial that would be great.

www.420magazine.com

 

[StoneOtter]

Also this is from the Problem solver.
Spider mites:
Spider mites are by far the worst pest to have, because they are the hardest to kill and can literally kill any plant. They are by far more active in warmer climates than cold ones, they also suck sup from the leaves leaving tiny white spots on the leaves from where they suck on. The damage they do is just like thrips, but with spider mites they pierce the surface of the leaves and can show tiny holesor white speckling damage, unlike with thirps they eat the surface of the chlorophyll. You can tell when you have infestation of spider mites , because you will have distorted growth, shortened internodes and petioles.
When you have bad infestation you will see webbing with larva in them. You get spider mites from either store bought soil mostly when your soil is not sterilized. Most brands do not state weather or not they are, chances are if you buy cheap soil, you have a less likely chance of the soil being sterile.Also, bringing outdoor plants indoors, or getting plants from someone else who was infected with spidermites.
Spider mites live on the plant itself and are under the leaves most of the time and are usually are so tiny you can't see them with the naked eye. In order to get rid of spider mites one of the best ways to start to get rid of them is to use NO-Pest strips.NO-Pest strips work well and should always be used with other methods. Neem oil helps get rid of them as well. Also by raising the humidity in your grow room a lot will kill the spider mites off, by them absorbing to much humidity and will burst. You can use soap solution like Safer Insecticidal Soap to get rid of most aphid problems. Use some tobacco juice and chili pepper powder added to this for mites. (see below how to make tabacco juice)
Pyrethrum should only be used in extreme circumstances directly on plants, It starts to breaks down around a week and is easily washed away with clear water or. If your plants are in flowering and you have spider mites, using safer chemicals is your best bet. The tobacco and pepper soap solution works well and should be used daily, spraying on the underside and top leaves and later the whole plant. Since spider mites are very residual to common products, you have to find or try any number of ones untill you get rid of them. make absolutly sure you retreat as stated, other wise you will get resistant spidermites and then you have a bigger battle on your hands.Also do not allow pets that go outside alot to be around indoor plants,mites have been known to be carried in from pets to plants. PLEASE NOTE, below are ways to get rid of spider mites, but no 2 mite infestations are identical, you almost always have to use different products to get rid of them, also make a habit to check for at least a whole month after thinking you got rid of them, that way your chances of the spider mites that became resistant breeding and then having a bigger problem. Make sure you spray your plant down very good and enough and on time.
Here are some more products that may help get rid of spider mites:

Chemicals
Hot Pepper Wax,Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide (which can be used right to the day of harvest),GNATROL( used in hydro in the water as well as soil),Doc's Neem Pest Soap,Safer Sticky Stakes,TR-11000 Pyrethrum. Anything that says dicofol on the back. ( should be used in vegging or early flowering)

Tabacco Juice recipe

Take 3 strong ciggeretes soak them over night in water
Boil it for 2 to 3 miniutes, let it cool off and spray the plants 3 to 4 times a week. You can add safer soap if you like to the mixture.
(make absolutly sure you use gloves/face protection while handling and spraying)
Neem oil works very well too!!
ZBQ has an excellent thread on how to use neem oil without getting your plants to oily!! Your Last resort is to use Avid.

Pictures 5 shows spider mites and there larva. Picture 6 shows spider mite damage. Picture 7 shows SPidermites larvae and spidermites closeup( Picture contibuted by sukalo)

 

[DarrenAdam420]

Also this is from the Problem solver.
Spider mites:
Spider mites are by far the worst pest to have, because they are the hardest to kill and can literally kill any plant. They are by far more active in warmer climates than cold ones, they also suck sup from the leaves leaving tiny white spots on the leaves from where they suck on. The damage they do is just like thrips, but with spider mites they pierce the surface of the leaves and can show tiny holesor white speckling damage, unlike with thirps they eat the surface of the chlorophyll. You can tell when you have infestation of spider mites , because you will have distorted growth, shortened internodes and petioles.
When you have bad infestation you will see webbing with larva in them. You get spider mites from either store bought soil mostly when your soil is not sterilized. Most brands do not state weather or not they are, chances are if you buy cheap soil, you have a less likely chance of the soil being sterile.Also, bringing outdoor plants indoors, or getting plants from someone else who was infected with spidermites.
Spider mites live on the plant itself and are under the leaves most of the time and are usually are so tiny you can't see them with the naked eye. In order to get rid of spider mites one of the best ways to start to get rid of them is to use NO-Pest strips.NO-Pest strips work well and should always be used with other methods. Neem oil helps get rid of them as well. Also by raising the humidity in your grow room a lot will kill the spider mites off, by them absorbing to much humidity and will burst. You can use soap solution like Safer Insecticidal Soap to get rid of most aphid problems. Use some tobacco juice and chili pepper powder added to this for mites. (see below how to make tabacco juice)
Pyrethrum should only be used in extreme circumstances directly on plants, It starts to breaks down around a week and is easily washed away with clear water or. If your plants are in flowering and you have spider mites, using safer chemicals is your best bet. The tobacco and pepper soap solution works well and should be used daily, spraying on the underside and top leaves and later the whole plant. Since spider mites are very residual to common products, you have to find or try any number of ones untill you get rid of them. make absolutly sure you retreat as stated, other wise you will get resistant spidermites and then you have a bigger battle on your hands.Also do not allow pets that go outside alot to be around indoor plants,mites have been known to be carried in from pets to plants. PLEASE NOTE, below are ways to get rid of spider mites, but no 2 mite infestations are identical, you almost always have to use different products to get rid of them, also make a habit to check for at least a whole month after thinking you got rid of them, that way your chances of the spider mites that became resistant breeding and then having a bigger problem. Make sure you spray your plant down very good and enough and on time.
Here are some more products that may help get rid of spider mites:

Chemicals
Hot Pepper Wax,Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide (which can be used right to the day of harvest),GNATROL( used in hydro in the water as well as soil),Doc's Neem Pest Soap,Safer Sticky Stakes,TR-11000 Pyrethrum. Anything that says dicofol on the back. ( should be used in vegging or early flowering)

Tabacco Juice recipe

Take 3 strong ciggeretes soak them over night in water
Boil it for 2 to 3 miniutes, let it cool off and spray the plants 3 to 4 times a week. You can add safer soap if you like to the mixture.
(make absolutly sure you use gloves/face protection while handling and spraying)
Neem oil works very well too!!
ZBQ has an excellent thread on how to use neem oil without getting your plants to oily!! Your Last resort is to use Avid.

Pictures 5 shows spider mites and there larva. Picture 6 shows spider mite damage. Picture 7 shows SPidermites larvae and spidermites closeup( Picture contibuted by sukalo)

Thanks for sharing brother. I did not expect so see them either, ever. But maybe they are common around here and i had no idea. I will make sure to implement some prevention mechanics in the next one. I'm not going out without a fight, i will not give up on this ladies. I will use Neem and the tobacco juice (we have something similar for sale here).

 

[StoneOtter]

Thanks for sharing brother. I did not expect so see them either, ever. But maybe they are common around here and i had no idea. I will make sure to implement some prevention mechanics in the next one. I'm not going out without a fight, i will not give up on this ladies. I will use Neem and the tobacco juice (we have something similar for sale here).

Yes, don't give up!

 

[DarrenAdam420]

Yes, don't give up!

I wont brother, thanks for the support. I'm going to nuke this little bastards. I am however a little ashamed because my plant has been looking like this for almost 2 weeks and i was ignoring it thinking it was just a little deficiency and i could never have bugs in my garden... living and learning i guess!

 

[StoneOtter]

I wont brother, thanks for the support. I'm going to nuke this little bastards. I am however a little ashamed because my plant has been looking like this for almost 2 weeks and i was ignoring it thinking it was just a little deficiency and i could never have bugs in my garden... living and learning i guess!

Welcome to the club. I'm the same way noticing new things.

 

[DarrenAdam420]

Hey guys, new update. I bought neem oil and a neonicotinoid pesticide that i sprayed on the plant. Not sure what the damage on the bugs is yet because i'm still waiting on my 30x thing but there was some damage to the flowers (some hairs turned amber) therefore foliar application is not an option at this point. What i did find is that those pesticides are systemic meaning the plants absorbs them and it stays in the plant system, that being said you can apply the neem oil and neonicotinoid to the soil (during watering) and the plant will absorb it! That might be just enough to get me to a decent harvest, this will all have an impact on the quality and quantity of the end product but i will try to minimize it with flushing etc. Better have something than nothing, specially when it is the first time.