First Grow in 3rd week of flowering under a T5

[Jessie187]

Im a noob, so please keep that in mind, I have spent about 2 months reading threads and appreciate the hell out of all the Info and Knowledge ive obtained, I have 7 plants (5 Gallon buckets) 4 Blueberry & 3 Medijuana all between 38'' & 48''...with that said I need some opinions.... I am using The Recipe for Success Kit only for Nutes...And only use Rain water...

~Question 1- How do my girls look? (21 days of 12/12 under 3000k Bloom Bulb (8 tube 4ft) T5)
~Question 2- They are massive (30 days of 24/7 6500k Veg bulbs T5 same unit im using for flowering)...Should i take out the bottom branches? Ive seen it done alot were u can see thru the bottom of the plants. I have only done it to 1 plant about 8 inches up from the dirt. Something about it makes the top buds grow bigger...but alot of the lowers are starting to get buds but i can see that the light dont get all the way down there...
~Question 3- How often should I spray them while they are flowering with the water bottle (pure rain water)? I usually do when I water them once a week...
~ Question 4- What leaves should i be removing for maximium yield if any? Any pruning advice while flowering would be awesome..

 

[LivenBurn]

~Question 1- How do my girls look? (21 days of 12/12 under 3000k Bloom Bulb (8 tube 4ft) T5) --Looks G2me
~Question 2- They are massive (30 days of 24/7 6500k Veg bulbs T5 same unit im using for flowering)...Should i take out the bottom branches? Ive seen it done alot were u can see thru the bottom of the plants. I have only done it to 1 plant about 8 inches up from the dirt. Something about it makes the top buds grow bigger...but alot of the lowers are starting to get buds but i can see that the light dont get all the way down there... Try spacing your pots differently to get more light penetration, the miniscule growth @ the base of the plant--I'd zero, along w/ other lame bud sites..
~Question 3- How often should I spray them while they are flowering with the water bottle (pure rain water)? I usually do when I water them once a week... IMO Very little if any-- unless you NEED humidity? & EVEN less when the buds start to get thicker
~ Question 4- What leaves should i be removing for maximium yield if any? Any pruning advice while flowering would be awesome.. I usually clear the big fan leaves from the center of the plant that are blocking light from nuggage-- I like to think it helps light penetration, air movement, humidity. YMMV.

Nice clean grow! Good job!

 

[D.Zero]

yes very beautiful nice plant too have fun

 

[Jessie187]

Appreciate the good words, any advice is worth gold to me, would hate to get to the end and make some dumb ass mistake

 

[GigaGrew]

Im a noob, so please keep that in mind, I have spent about 2 months reading threads and appreciate the hell out of all the Info and Knowledge ive obtained, I have 7 plants (5 Gallon buckets) 4 Blueberry & 3 Medijuana all between 38'' & 48''...with that said I need some opinions.... I am using The Recipe for Success Kit only for Nutes...And only use Rain water...

~Question 1- How do my girls look? (21 days of 12/12 under 3000k Bloom Bulb (8 tube 4ft) T5)
~Question 2- They are massive (30 days of 24/7 6500k Veg bulbs T5 same unit im using for flowering)...Should i take out the bottom branches? Ive seen it done alot were u can see thru the bottom of the plants. I have only done it to 1 plant about 8 inches up from the dirt. Something about it makes the top buds grow bigger...but alot of the lowers are starting to get buds but i can see that the light dont get all the way down there...
~Question 3- How often should I spray them while they are flowering with the water bottle (pure rain water)? I usually do when I water them once a week...
~ Question 4- What leaves should i be removing for maximium yield if any? Any pruning advice while flowering would be awesome..

Hi there Jessie187 and welcome to 420 magazine =)

1: they look very healthy but stretched, stretch can be minimised by switching to 12/12, but not switching light type till 2 weeks later, ie keep your veg lights going 2 weeks more than 12/12.

2:i would not remove ANY flowering branches...space does not look like a premium for you. your plants are quite tall and flouros dont have a long range (just a couple of inches). if at all possible add some 2700k CFL's for side lighting or if not you may need to spread your t8s around.

3: no! basically in veg our plant likes it humid (50-80%) in flower they like it dry (30-50%) the ONLY reason you should spray a flowering plant is a foliar feeding, which sounds beyond the scope of this grow.

4: people like myself and bassman are defoliators and have great success...the old beliefs are officially debunked, at this stage you can pretty much remove ALL of them fan leaves if you have your feeding down well and i dont see a lot of nute burn on your leaves =)

Basically its a shock vs benefit calculation. you have weak lights and tall plants...cut em all imho. the trick is to do it all in a single sitting because its going to shock the plant...but the rewards of 100% exposure to lower bud sites will out weight it =)

on a final note...rain water is BAD for seedlings. seedlings fed rainwater will suffer more damping off victims than any other type of water.=)

holler if you need any more questions answered..im here all week...oh wait i mean forever

 

[Muttt]

You are doing very well. I agree that they are stretching. It's because there just isn't enough light. I would look into a MH/HPS .... I'd use either a 250w or a 400w. You can get a setup for about 130 bucks on amazon. You'd get a hell of a lot more bud that way. Your branches would be closer together and your veg would be denser.

Other than more light. I'd just keep doing what you are doing. Good work.

 

[Jessie187]

I have been shopping a 600 watt hps round $150 on Ebay with an Xtra Large wing, is it ok to just switch it out mid flower, and would i need an intake fan to keep it cool? If i got one 600 hps? Trying to learn before i invest much, good tip on the stretch problem, ill remember that. I also thought gbe fan leaves were needed down below but will remove all non budding fan leaves

 

[GigaGrew]

here is some light reading for you =D

Increasing yield with defoliation indoors - What's it mean? How to do it?

 

[Cultivator]

yes get that 600w hps in asap, plants will thank u for it.

 

[Jessie187]

Definitly will Cultivator , just cut all the fan leaves off so the light is alot better on the bottom just hope it isnt too much shock cuttin all them leaves

 

[WizHigh]

You are doing very well. I agree that they are stretching. It's because there just isn't enough light. I would look into a MH/HPS .... I'd use either a 250w or a 400w. You can get a setup for about 130 bucks on amazon. You'd get a hell of a lot more bud that way. Your branches would be closer together and your veg would be denser.

Other than more light. I'd just keep doing what you are doing. Good work.

His light is to far away. T5 are meant to be right up close to your plants. With any lamp there will be stretching if its to far away since PAR will fade with distance. From start his light was a mile away from the plants.



Ive missed alot here but you have a good lamp bud. T5 are HID lamps. Same as MH/HPS. Your T5 looks to far away, you can get that sucker closer and the penetration will reach the bottom of the plants. I have my T5 about 5inches away from my plants. Other then that your plants look great. And another thing next time you flower use mix match bulbs for better flowering results. Use 4 6500k bulbs and 4 3000k bulbs. You will get less stretching and fatter more dense nugs. You can veg and flower with both bulbs at the same time. The red in the 3000k will give you thicker branches while the blue reduces stretching.

 

[Jessie187]

after trimming, thx for the info Wiz I have em about 4 inches away from the top of the canopy but its a bitch cuz a few are a little taller But im rigging it to tilt lower on the shorter side

 

[Jessie187]

Should i change out 4 bulbs i have 8 of both ???

 

[WizHigh]

Should i change out 4 bulbs i have 8 of both ???

Yea only problem is from start you have to have the lamp directly over top of the plants. Not to far away. Just raise the light a few inches after every so often to allow minimum stretch. But yea go blue, red, blue, red etc. Best way to use the T5 is with both bulbs threw veg and flower

Are you using anything to promote bigger buds? Or even molasses? I think you should purchase some and add that to your feeding schedule. Blackstrap molasses is $20 for a gallon. And get Kool Bloom dry. Only use Kool Bloom the last 3 weeks of harvest starting out at 1/4tsp per gallon of water.

 

[GigaGrew]

a few comments.

t5 are not HID. they are inelastic scattering technology.

this far into flowering i wouldnt reccomend more than one blue light(if you only have 8) and 7 in the red.

those are LONG plants, flouros at the top are going to do nothing at all for the lower parts of the plant, they just dont have the range.

if your lamps are doubles, i would have 1 at the top with 1 blue 1 red, then 2 doubles behind them for back-side lighting and your last one in front for side lighting so your light has the most efficient and close distribution to all bud sites as possible.

even if at this point you can get a sodium HID for above i would compliment it at the bottom with red side lighting to smooth out the average par to each part of the plant.

just my opinion but since its your first grow i wouldnt bother with all the funky addities yet....start simple then work up or you will be totally lost when something goes wrong....and i dont think there is a grower alive thats hasnt had a nute burn or lockout or worse at some point, even with unlimited funds e.t.c

 

[WizHigh]

a few comments.

t5 are not HID. they are inelastic scattering technology.

this far into flowering i wouldnt reccomend more than one blue light(if you only have 8) and 7 in the red.

those are LONG plants, flouros at the top are going to do nothing at all for the lower parts of the plant, they just dont have the range.

I have to disagree Gigs. My T5 says HID right on the box and on the lamp. And I have the 4ft 4bulb, so I know his is HID also since his is an 8 bulb. Mixing the tubes from 6500k to 3,000k etc. Is the best way to use T5's proven facts. Everyone ive seen use them plus its all over youtube for everyone else visual. Only problem he has is that he started off with his T5 lamp way to high so thats why his plants are so stretched like that. Also he said

Should i change out 4 bulbs i have 8 of both ???

So since he has 8 of both 6500k & 3000k its best to use both at the same time. By using 4 of each. I dont know how far he is into flower but I would switch them now. That way the plants will produce alot denser nugs instead of them being loose and small. He has a while to go with fowering so he can add the basics like molasses and kool bloom since kool bloom will only be added in the last 3 weeks that wont be confusing at all. Next time he starts a new grow he needs to just lower his lights as close as possible for better penetration from the start.

Just by looking at his pictures he has a while to go with flowering. So its best if he does this now and also start adding molasses. And since its organic he has nothing to worry about with burning. 2tbl spoons per gallon.

In this video this guy has a scrog with using T5 with both bulbs.
[video=youtube;6rZ_vqT8f5I]

[/video]

 

[GigaGrew]

im hoping a few more will offer some data, its not very fair on the poster to witness conflicts of opinion.
however, i believe there is benefit to us all to get this down as we do love mythbusting.

so a few more "facts"

flowering done with ju7st MH bulbs causes smaller and less dense buds than sodium.
the 'myth' about the benefits of blue light in flowering comes from the fact that a MH bulb contains more UV than a HPS which does indeed increase the potency of the resins.

the amout of people that choose 2 red or 3 red to 1 blue is is a MUCH higher ratio.

just a few things to help me get my point across that you want far more red to blue than your suggesting.

I use HID lights, not CFL's but I always have a dual spectrum running in my flowering tent! so far I am very very pleased with the results...just have more red than blue.. like a 2:1 ratio

Plus..extra light never hurts in flowering

Metal halide (MH) lamps can be used for flowering, but there are two problems that they have when compared with high-pressure sodium (HPS) lamps. The first is that they don't emit as much total light. HPS lamps emit more than 20% more light, so MH lamps are not as intense when covering the same area. Second, they do not emit as much orange and red light as HPS lamps. These spectrums seem to promote flowering.
However, MH lamps do have several advantages over HPS. First, they are less expensive to purchase. Second, the light does not have a really weird telltale
spectrum. It looks white, not pink or amber.
Third, the lamps emit more UVB light than HPS lamps, although still in very small amounts. The amount of UVB light plants receive is directly related to the quality of the buds. The more UVB, the higher the quality.
Buds grown under MH light will not be as big as buds grown using HPS lighting. However their quality will be as good or better.

I have four 25W and one 30W WARM,
and only one 25W COLD/BLUE

so I use mixed, but on very low ratio: I noticed buds don't fatten up under blue as they do under red

A few have reported that LED Grow lighting alone does not produce as prolific vegetative growth as they get with Sunlight or HID grow light sources, but, reference to controlled studies by NASA indicate that is not true, that in fact 80/20% Red/Blue LED Grow Lighting outperformed HID Lights, and neither source did quite as well as natural light, see the chart below. There are many variable beyond light alone, but the quality of light is key.In real world use the LED does a pretty adequate job with Veg states, but does not provide optimal results with Flower. You will need a good deal more light than most manufacturers suggest.One of the biggest problems with LED Grow Lighting is the failure rate, they often have power supply issues or burn out LEDs. This is has been a huge challenge, to find a reliable manufacturer that also build a product that deliver appropriate spectrum. We have narrowed our choice down to only a couple.Missing Spectrum, Unraveling the code:
It appears that some manufacturers have selected nm ranges that when combined provide a very nice and full spectrum, yet one has to ask, can the spectrum be truly full without green and/or white light? The addition of White LEDs (our manufacture added 3500K white modules) makes for a very full spectrum, with small amounts of numerous green and white gradations, the resulting waveform closely matches that of the absorptive spectrum of green plants, but not as wide as Inda-Gro Lights or PLS.Current "Future" Applications of Horticultural LED Lighting, Specialized Supplemental Lighting: The experts tell me these lights, Flower Initiator, will not be supplemental, but an essential light. Now Available: "The Flower Initiator" Far RED LED Flood lights. Users have reported accelerated bud initiation. You might "experiment" with this light on a separate timer for 1 Hour prior to lights out then for 10-15 minutes thereafter, as a phytochrome trigger, to hasten the instigation on Budding, reducing the Phytochrome switch period from 2 hours to 10-15 minutes. Other optional experiments are suggested on the order page.Not all LED Grow Lights are created equal, quality might vary and our "state of the art" commercial products yield greater intensity than LED Grow Lights did in the past, yet we still suggest they are best for supplemental usage for spectrum tweaking. Our lights pass the reliability test with flying colors.Heat and Cold:
It has been suggested that, in some cases, a growing environment may have been too hot or too cold to make the plants respond with Spring like growth. In colder climates the lack of heat theory makes sense, it is well known that waste heat is one thing produced in excess with HID lights and that LED Lighting produces less heat. Perhaps a supplement of FAR RED or Spectrum or retaining some HID Light for heat and additional light might do the trick. Although a well insulated air tight, temperature and humidity controlled space should receive enough heat from LED Grow lights, they do produce waste heat.With all methods excessive heat also can greatly reduce productivity.It is generally known that too much heat is generated by HID lamps, Fans and Movers are employed. Movers are not required with Led Grow Lights, fans are needed only when the environment itself generates excessive heat, but the plants like moving air, the Led Grow Lights produce what is generally just sufficient heat and is easily dissipated by built in cooling fans.The truly important aspect of artificial lighting is the concept of Action Spectrum, or the amounts and colors of light that are absorbed and used by chlorophyll producing plants.​

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia:
An action spectrum is the rate of a physiological activity plotted against wavelength of light. It shows which wavelength of light is most effectively used in a specific chemical reaction. Some reactants are able to use specific wavelengths of light more effectively to complete their reactions. For example, chlorophyll is much more efficient at using the red and blue spectrums of light to carry out photosynthesis. Therefore, the action spectrum graph would show spikes above the wavelengths representing the colors red and blue.

The following action spectrum graph for chlorophyll production is overlaid upon the color wavelength spectrum, the corresponding spectrums generated by standard 80% Red/ 20% Blue LED Grow Lights and standard HID (Metal Halide) Grow Lights are also overlaid.

​

One can observe that the standard HID Light produces light spectrums that are insufficient in the blue and red spectrum and excessive in the yellow-orange spectrum as well as in the yellow and green spectrum, where very little is absorbed. Halide lights compensate for this by producing bulk amounts in all spectrums they produce.​

LED Grow Lights, used for this example, more closely parallel the exact wavelength requirements for chlorophyll producing plants, although most produce an excess of Red and are somewhat deficient in Blue light. By generating a light spectrum that most closely matches the Action Spectrum yields the greatest results with the least amount of energy expended.​

Our quality manufacture provides for a superior product, made with a better spectrum matching and better balanced ratio options of BLUE, RED, Orange, Deep RED and White light. You will be convinced by the improved health and productivity in all phases used as supplemental lighting.​

The Standard Spectrum light include 10% 3500K White to fill in the requirements in the trough in the yellow and green zones.​

Understanding General Spectrum Information:​

200 - 280 nm UVC ultraviolet range which is generally harmful to plants. LEDs in this spectrum are non-existent or very expensive.​

280 - 315 nm Includes harmful UVB ultraviolet light which causes plants colors to fade. This range is useful for Trichrome production, believed to be due to positive stress.​

​

315 - 380 nm UVA ultraviolet light which is neither harmful nor beneficial to most plants.​

380 - 400 nm Start of visible light spectrum. Process of chlorophyll absorption begins. UV protected plastics ideally block out any light below this range.​

400 - 520 nm The violet, blue, and green bands. Peak absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and a strong influence on photosynthesis. (promotes vegetative growth)​

520 - 610 nm The green, yellow, and orange bands and has less absorption by pigments.​

610 - 720 nm The red band. Large amount of absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and most significant influence on photosynthesis. (promotes flowering and budding)​

In Sunlight the ratio of red (660nm) to far red (730nm) is about 1.2:1​

Interestingly Phytochrome Pfr is activated by 660nm and Pr is activated by 730nm.​

720 - 1000 nm Little absorption by Chlorophyll here, Phytochrome responds in the 720range. Flowering and germination is influenced. Near this range and higher end of the band is the Infrared spectrum, which is mostly heat and promotes elongation or negatively affect water absorption/transpiration.​

​

Many plant pigments have dual wavelength peaks that can be activated with LED light combinations:​

Beta-carotene 450nm 480-485nm dual peak​

chlorophyll a 430nm 662nm dual peak​

chlorophyll b 453nm 642nm dual peak​

phycoerythrin 590nm single peak​

phycocyanin 625nm single peak​

670nm and 700nm for the Emerson effect.​

The LED - Light Emitting Diode:
The LED is similar to a transistor in that it is a solid state device, which work so efficiently as to produce very little in the way of waste heat.LED lights will operate up to 60,000 hours before dropping below 75% of initial production, HID lamps loose 20% of productivity after the initial burn-in period. While well dispersed the LED light is directional, unlike 360° conventional lighting, which adds 46% more useable Lumens.​

​

• 30%~40% Energy-saving over HID lamps.

• Solid State, High Shock/Vibration Resistant

• Work without ballast

• No RF Interference

• No Flickering

• Instant Soft-start

• Minimum Maintenance Costs

• Produce Little Heat

• Reduced Risk of Fire Hazard

• No Mercury and other Hazardous Materials, fully RoHS-Compliant.​

​

Today's advanced LED Grow Lights will pay for themselves in energy savings over their very long lives and will repay in multiples on the quarterly replacement cost of HID bulbs. Nasa Studies of Astroculture Plant Growth Chamber, indicate that the Red/ Blue ratio used in most commercial LED Grow Lights, were used in these studies. The solution used in Astroculture is lighting provided by high intensity light emitting diodes (LEDs). To make the lighting as energy-efficient as possible, only the wavelengths needed by the plants are incorporated into the LED light caps. Plants require light at about 670 nm (red) for photosynthesis and a small amount at about 470 nm (blue) for development and for proper orientation in the near absence of gravity.​

According to a University of Minnesota Study LED lights would have the potential to greatly increase energy use efficiency of commercial greenhouse lighting, thereby passing on significant savings to growers and consumers. While the initial investment in LED lighting is higher ($1,760) than HID lamps ($400), the cost-savings over a 7-year period are $2,291 due to their lower energy use and bulb longevity. NOTE: Costs for LED Lighting have gone down, while energy costs has increased since this study was released. Some results of this study in the two Charts below.​

Natural Light - LED - HID Comparison

Observed Benefits​

​

The above Study of LED Grow Lights, and the manufacturer claim found below, suggests that perhaps additional gains may be had with an increase of the Blue color spectrum during the growth phase, if you seek denser growth. The University study indicates that Red light only produced plants with greater distances between branch internodes and softer, less dense, growth, whereas, the Blue alone tests produced plants with less space between the internodes and denser, stiffer leaf growth.One Manufacturer claims that:
"The most important benefit to LED light is that you have full control over the wave lengths of Red and Blue light ! The amounts of Red and Blue light can be precisely controlled. Light can be placed exactly where you need it most. I have placed a Red LED right against the surface of many plants actually touching the areas most likely to produce a flower including orchids, and few days later flower buds started to form! Amazing!!! The level of growth manipulation and control that LEDs can offer the grower are only just now being barely explored. We have manipulated tiny seedlings with excess red light and in just weeks watched them burst into flowers. We have controlled annuals with excess Blue light into thinking summer was never going end and made the last for many years while turning them into monstrously large plants! LED growing is in its initiatory period and much more will be learned in the exciting years to come!"We are convinced that this manufacturer is onto something!Chlorophylls and Carotenoids
Chlorophylls
Two types of chlorophyll are found in plants and the green algae.

* chlorophyll a and
* chlorophyll bBoth chlorophylls absorb light most strongly in the red and violet parts of the spectrum. Green light is absorbed poorly. Thus when white light shines on chlorophyll-containing structures like leaves, green light is transmitted and reflected and the structures appear green.

In the chloroplast, both types are associated with integral membrane proteins in the thylakoid membrane.

Chloroplasts also contain carotenoids. These are also pigments with colors ranging from red to yellow.

Carotenoids absorb light most strongly in the blue portion of the spectrum. They thus enable the chloroplast to trap are larger fraction of the radiant energy falling on it.

Carotenoids are often the major pigments in flowers and fruits. The red of a ripe tomato and the orange of a carrot are produced by their carotenoids.

In leaves, the carotenoids are usually masked by the chlorophylls. In the autumn, as the quantity of chlorophyll in the leaf declines, the carotenoids become visible and produce the yellows and reds of autumn foliage.Seasonal Color Theory:
Outdoor Sunlight produces a full but seasonally shifting spectrum of light, during the long summer days when the sun is high overhead the sunlight is of longer duration, greater intensity and contains a higher content of Blue light, HID lamps color rendering index does not mimic this season's index closely enough, HID lamps produce largely Yellow light which is not very useful to growth and harmful UV and IR. levels, about 25% of the energy is useful. In greenhouses and outdoors, the long lighting period, the intensity and color content all effect the amount of growth experienced during the summertime.During the late summer, fall and winter, as the sun appears to become closer to the horizon, the light passes through the atmosphere at a progressively sharper angle, through thicker air, and is filtered by this lens to have a higher content of Red. This high Red content is what the LED Grow lighting is meant to supplement, to enhance this beyond the natural state and cause a lengthened window to achieve larger and more prolific blooms.RED or BLUE Boosting?:
It may be inferred that the higher Blue light content of the lengthened hours of summer might be more closely simulated with the addition of more supplemental Blue LED lighting during the vegetative growth period, this is known as "Blue Boosting". But one must ask, "Is it really necessary with highest quality lights? The answer, your real world experience with your particular species will teach you what they prefer.Our New Standard LED Grow Lights, when used alone, produce small compact plants that tend to bolt before and upon entering an extended bloom cycle. Our manufacturer suggest their LED Grow Lighting is for for supplemental indoor use, as greenhouse supplemental lighting to enhance and lengthen the Bloom cycle. Our experience is that these High Quality Standard lights really work, and work well particularly as supplemental light for better spectrum control.We offer 150 Watt100% RED and BLUE Booster Lights for those seeking spectrum and intensity adjustability to mimic seasonal variations. It is great a choice for the truly discriminating. Observations and Conclusions:
Designers and manufacturers world wide have, until recently, blindly accepted the conclusions of limited testing in low gravity conditions of NASA LED Grow Light studies, and promote lights using a 80% Red and 20% Blue ratio. Our observations and testing prove greater effectiveness near a more optimal ratio such as the one provided by our manufacturer supplemental lighting.The Bottom Line:
LED Grow Lighting will save considerable amounts of Energy and are better for the environment in multiple ways, our improved consideration of appropriate wavelengths and ratios provide superior products that will assure the maximum benefits for your critical projects. Research has led us, our manufacturer, to provide supplemental LED lighting that more closely match the spectrums and ratios appropriate for healthy plant production, tests prove this out.They are great for adding RED with Plasma lighting or further tweaking with standard commercial induction lighting, those that are not purpose built. Inda-Gro EDFL Lights are the first and only purpose built Induction lighting system anywhere that does not require spectrum enhancement.Using the most energy efficient lighting is crucial to keeping your costs reduced over time, as energy prices inexorably edge up, make sure you consider all options before making such costly investments.​

and finally a heavy weight pdf if you can understand it.

Ashspublications.org

long story short.
UV is great for potency
red is great for flower
far red is good for early flowering
and blue light is for vegitation

mix em up however you want but the plant wants what the plant wants and 'opinions' are not going to alter this.

hope this narrows things down.

personally this all tells me to continue my plans to switch to CMH bulbs which wipe the floor with everything else as far as multifuntionality and full spectrum and UV resin production e.t.c

 

[WizHigh]

Totally agree on the spectrum and color temp of the lighting. Its very true about that. But this guy only has a T5. So where just helping him out with what he has. Ofcourse everyone would say go with a HPS. But even though you say more 3000k bulbs rather than 6500k you have to remember that the light has to be distributed evenly across the canopy of the plants. So thats my reason for saying blue, red, blue, red etc. I totally agree on what your saying but as for the T5 the bulbs would have to be evened out to get the full works of the blue & red spectrum. Im pretty sure he doesnt want more stretching from all the red light. Less stretching and more bud production.

 

[GigaGrew]

stretch is pretty much dead after 2 weeks of flowering, if any such stretch continues a humble 23w cfl blue will halt it dead

 

[Jessie187]

Im using a nute kit called recipe for success, starter kit only $45 , has thrive alive,sugar daddy, blossom, boost, maji something, all i need i believe.