Help Please!

[AdaminCO]

Do you suggest i still add nutes for the next watering?

I would not add in any nutes at this time. It’s says “Organic fertilizer that gradually feeds plants for up to 3 months”.
At this point you need to decide if you going to grow “organic”, or use Fox Farm. I’ve pulled in Emilya for her advice.

 

[AdaminCO]

I’m not familiar with this promix line. From what I can see it’s a bit different than traditional soil. @Emilya what would you recommend his input be when using this?

• Canadian sphagnum peat moss
• Peat humus
• Coir (coconut fibre)
• Perlite
• Limestone
• Organic fertilizer
• Mycorrhizae - PTB297 Technology

 

[Emilya Green]

I’m not familiar with this promix line. From what I can see it’s a bit different than traditional soil. @Emilya what would you recommend his input be when using this?

• Canadian sphagnum peat moss
• Peat humus
• Coir (coconut fibre)
• Perlite
• Limestone
• Organic fertilizer
• Mycorrhizae - PTB297 Technology

it looks like a plain old high end designer soil. Most of these potting soils are "preloaded" for the veg cycle, but will fall flat when asked to support a blooming plant.

There is also a misconception out there about fertilizers. Stop thinking of your nutes as simply food, and wondering if you should allow the soil to "feed" your plants until it runs out of stuff, or use your nutes. Even in a strong soil, if you want to supercharge your plants and make them bigger and stronger than they could do in just the soil, use your nutes... even from the seedling stage on. There really is no reason that I can see, not to.

My recommendation is to use the Fox Farm nutes as suggested per week of the grow on their feeding chart. Follow their instructions exactly... don't think that you must use less. As far as pH goes, adjust down to 6.3 pH for every fluid hitting your soil, water or water mixed with nutes. It is very important in the FF nute line to scrape the lower end of the soil pH range, or it is very common to get some heavy metal deficiencies toward the last third of the grow.

 

[AdaminCO]

it looks like a plain old high end designer soil. Most of these potting soils are "preloaded" for the veg cycle, but will fall flat when asked to support a blooming plant.

There is also a misconception out there about fertilizers. Stop thinking of your nutes as simply food, and wondering if you should allow the soil to "feed" your plants until it runs out of stuff, or use your nutes. Even in a strong soil, if you want to supercharge your plants and make them bigger and stronger than they could do in just the soil, use your nutes... even from the seedling stage on. There really is no reason that I can see, not to.

My recommendation is to use the Fox Farm nutes as suggested per week of the grow on their feeding chart. Follow their instructions exactly... don't think that you must use less. As far as pH goes, adjust down to 6.3 pH for every fluid hitting your soil, water or water mixed with nutes. It is very important in the FF nute line to scrape the lower end of the soil pH range, or it is very common to get some heavy metal deficiencies toward the last third of the grow.

Thanks Em. I was afraid that him hitting them full strength (first feed), right after up potting into this soil would be a bad idea. Also wasn’t sure since it has a coco/peat base if he shouldn’t be going in a bit lower.

 

[Emilya Green]

Thanks Em. I was afraid that him hitting them full strength (first feed), right after up potting into this soil would be a bad idea. Also wasn’t sure since it has a coco/peat base if he shouldn’t be going in a bit lower.

keep in mind that this soil is probably high in nitrogen but quite low as far as our needs go in phosphorus, potassium, calcium and of course magnesium. Potting soils are generally targeted toward flowering plants, not fruiting plants, which have much greater needs.

 

[Alex0810203]

From the comments received and some intense research..I was thinking of nutrient burn, sun burn, Magnesium deficiency and PH irregularities...
for these reasons :

1)Since the leaves started looking bad only 2-3 days after the first nut/water feed. ( nutrient burn and PH )
2)the lamps where very hot.. the leaves felt like dry old paper, mostly the higher and bigger leaves ( more exposure ).. i raised the lamps and they seem to be less dry already...but still the side burns are progressing very slowly and all my babies are affected now..
3) the PH meter didnt work.
I bought an Apera premium line pen... ( over 170$.. and well recommanded from growers ) but i guess it was decalibrated... i re-tested my water after calibration and it was at 7.8 wich completly threw me off since i only used it once since i received it...
4) I raised the pots a little from the floor. I realised the containers had a bottom rim wich i believe prevented the drainage.
5) I received my humidifier. Humidity is now at 50% ( from 36 to 50 in about 1 houre, probably will go higher with time ).
6) i reduced the heater to 24°c.
7) ordered epson salt to spray them as soon as received.
Idk if this is a good start or im being a bad begginer doing a big mistake : over caring and trying too intensly wich results in changing too many things at once causing more problems...?

Ps. Emilya,
Thanks for your "how to water" explanations! I adjusted in order to water the rootball better and to be as patient as possible. Actually smelled them need water!!! I was quite surprised! Also aw the first bottom leaves wilt ! Great tricks thanks again!

 

[Alex0810203]

From the comments received and some intense research..I was thinking of nutrient burn, sun burn, Magnesium deficiency and PH irregularities...
for these reasons :

1)Since the leaves started looking bad only 2-3 days after the first nut/water feed. ( nutrient burn and PH )
2)the lamps where very hot.. the leaves felt like dry old paper, mostly the higher and bigger leaves ( more exposure ).. i raised the lamps and they seem to be less dry already...but still the side burns are progressing very slowly and all my babies are affected now..
3) the PH meter didnt work.
I bought an Apera premium line pen... ( over 170$.. and well recommanded from growers ) but i guess it was decalibrated... i re-tested my water after calibration and it was at 7.8 wich completly threw me off since i only used it once since i received it...
4) I raised the pots a little from the floor. I realised the containers had a bottom rim wich i believe prevented the drainage.
5) I received my humidifier. Humidity is now at 50% ( from 36 to 50 in about 1 houre, probably will go higher with time ).
6) i reduced the heater to 24°c.

Idk if this is a good start or im being a bad begginer doing a big mistake : over caring and trying too intensly wich results in changing too many things at once causing more problems...?

Once again thanks for the feedbacks!
I really am attached to them ( wich will make the killing and harvesting part quite hard ..) shouldnt have named them...hahaha

 

[NuttyProfessor]

yeahh its hard when the chop comes , but once its dried and your stoned you don't care any more ,

 

[AdaminCO]

Once again thanks for the feedbacks!
I really am attached to them ( wich will make the killing and harvesting part quite hard ..) shouldnt have named them...hahaha

Wait until you have to chop a healthy Male... that was a tough one. lol!
Made some great Salve though.

 

[Alex0810203]

Wait until you have to chop a healthy Male... that was a tough one. lol!
Made some great Salve though.

Oh no!!! Did you know it was a male? Its gorgeous! Weed looks really good! I want one just for decoration in my loft ♡

 

[AdaminCO]

Oh no!!! Did you know it was a male? Its gorgeous! Weed looks really good! I want one just for decoration in my loft ♡

Yeah, but not before it impregnated some of the lowers on the other 4 though.

 

[Alex0810203]

I took some better pictures if that might help. Did alot MORE reasearch ( ive basicly passed the whole day reading (thank covid for the time))

 

[NuttyProfessor]

Its looking very like the pots didn't drain and you have wet feet , i was going to ask what the drainage was like , i would drill more holes on the bottom sides for extra drainage ,
the buckets are full of food still , adding more to it will make the plant worse if the run off wasn't great at the start ,
the reason i said not to add extras is because if it were slow release pellets and you added bottled nutrients it can cut through them quicker causing all sorts of crap for you, they are designed for tap water not acidic nutrients , it would be difficult to pin point the problem then and your ph would go bunkers/unstable also its a big fat waste this soon in , a base bloom nutrients will do lovely for the rest of the grow once they go to flower , some seaweed extract will help too, and the odd compost tea if you stay organic
Now if it were me i would let dry out almost completely , then water around the out side of plant and not down the main trunk , i used big plastic pots once and had to drill a ton of holes , took forever to dry them , so i got fabric now.

add extra here around the pots base , get that dead water out and fresh air in there

 

[NuttyProfessor]

I sort of went semi air pot lol but it worked well at the time , see the holes i drilled , loads ,

BTW these two plants were feed almost water only , just two 1/2 bloom feeds, they are small autos , cant understand people wasting nutrients unless they are feed to waste , some people must have shares in the companies or just love fecking up the planet even more

this is also water only , no ph straight from the tap , no bottled, NOT COOKED at all semi super soil almost 5 weeks in , SUPER HEALTHY

 

[NuttyProfessor]

I think its (K) not sure on burn your right there , burn would show on tips yellow, not sides, and looks different than mag , , and is very easy confused with burn , i seem to get a little (k) def at the start then it grows out , plain ph water , what you guys think ? ( when it dries ) , then see if it looks better ,

I struggled to see the Magnesium deficiency. Its on the taco'd leaf. The chlorosis between the leaf veins.

It's odd to see 1 leaf curled down and some curled up.

That curled UP one appears to be getting it's leaf margins fried. Its not exactly at the edge...but it's another syptom not associated with the Magnesium. What THAT is, is not clear to me yet.
You say you have a fan. Is it an oscillating one? Bent down AND up would make me look at the potential for wind burn as well.

 

[Pat Puffer]

Yo nutty...that would be that 2nd pic i posted. The margins of the leaves seem to be developing something.

I have never seen a K def personally. I have only read about them. K def affects the margins. Those necrotic dead patches are closer to the edge than anything. Not so progressed i could positively say.

I would need to review the substrate specs and ferts. In my experience when there is more than 1 deficiency happening, there is something else at work, if the soil isn't totally depleted. pH probelm or over watering or perhaps wind burn.

My spider sense is tingling on the K subject.

 

[SmokingWings]

.......

I would need to review the substrate specs and ferts. In my experience when there is more than 1 deficiency happening, there is something else at work, if the soil isn't totally depleted. pH probelm or over watering or perhaps wind burn.

My spider sense is tingling on the K subject.

Have you looked into the Mulder's Chart? It is supposed to the show the relationship between one macro nutrient and the other macro and many of the micro nutrients. Several other growers on this msg board have brought up the chart several times, have recommended using it, and most of them admit that it is a bit complicated to understand.

The charts have the same relationships between the basic minerals and nutrients. Some get more complex by including more of the micro nutrients.

If I am figuring out that chart correctly to much Nitrogen (N) can have an adverse reaction with Phosphorus (P) which then leads to a problem with the Potassium (K). If there is to much P then the effect goes on to create a problem with the N and the K. But, the N does not seem to have a direct reaction to or with the K.

 

[NuttyProfessor]

Excess (p) locks out zinc iron and mag . too much (k) will mess with mag BUT i think the soil is ok for nutes the drainage is a problem and the soil could be lighter ,
i think if more perlite was added and the drainage was better this problem wouldn't happen , its just got that slow drain clumpy heavy look to it and id say there is very little roots to feed the plant proper .
Try feeding 2 as Em said and 2 water only at ph 6.4 ( when dry ) only way to solve the mystery its a 50/50 problem and you have 4 plants which is good
Its all about getting your girls back on track !

Seedlings don't need very much , using NPK flat out works against the plants it works against calcium , they use more calcium than (p) calcium is very very important for a strong vascular system and high brix , it helps fight pests and diseases , mold etc ( powdery mildew )
Feeding all the time is the biggest myth out there
my seedling mix , 2 heaped table spoons multi use compost , very little nutes
perlite no nutes
peat moss no nutes

Is Fox farm organic ?

water from tap only .... why should i feed ? do these look like they need fed ? its a waste if you ask me , i get a def RARELY compared to people pushing the shit out of their poor plants , they can only take up so much and they use a lot of energy just to burn off the bottled (N) which they take up if they need it or not , 20% energy lost which could be used to store sugars and not to waste just to push nutrient sales through the roof

 

[NuttyProfessor]

I hope my last post didn't sound rude , i sometimes think i come across rude when i don't mean to , i cant spell fancy words so its harder to explain but i do my best lol
What i am trying to explain is ,
Calcium is a forgotten nutrient , when you push npk ferts you work against cal , it locks up easy with (p) becomes unavailable and you end up with a def, pests on leaves or roots maybe even both , hollow stems very weak vascular etc
If you can build a good vascular system and more roots your plants can take up more nutrients and you don't have to push the NPK as much,
when you feed high strength Grow nutes the plants will be heavy on top, big growth, big fancy looking plants , BUT no roots to support the size of the plants ( its all top growth that could go toward roots ) ever see a big massive plant just collapse ? this is why , it also makes big cells with thin cell walls and makes plants more attractive to pests and diseases , soft growth, not healthy, and meds will not be as good as they could be, the plant will use 20/30% of photosynthesis just to burn off off the (N) for leaf growth , we dont want leaves we want nice fat flowers
Calcium glues the cell walls, the more glue in the cells the less molds can penetrate the leaf , if you can get a high brix plant insects don't even see it as food , dont get me wrong i was one of these people that thought THOUGHT the more you feed the better the plant
I am just one of these people NOW that hates waste and if i can do any thing to make the planet a bit better i will

 

[Alex0810203]

Hey everyone! Just wanted to say thanks for the feedback!
3 of them are doing much better, two of them are so so...but growth has started again for the 3 stringer ones. Leaves show sign of light nutrient burn now wich from what i red if very comon and not severe enough to be worried. Heres some pics of the babies