Over watering and nutes I think
I'd use full strength calmag only till it gets better
That soil said no nutes needed for 6 weeks
I'd use full strength calmag only till it gets better
That soil said no nutes needed for 6 weeks
Hey guys first timer
- Thread starter Cocobear
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Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
you arent growing in soil so there is not a ton built up in there, its not soil you have a SOILLESS MEDIUM just use the GROW at 50% and see what happens
and the calmag if you can acquire it
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
Do you have a pic of the soil bag u used
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
When the water used to mix nutrients is very soft, then the concentration of nutrients has to go up or the coco will rob the nutrients and a Calcium deficiency will begin to show. This is exactly due to these issues. With the popularity in Reverse Osmosis systems sky-rocketing, this issue is seen more and more often. Growers plan to use pure water, feed lightly to avoid burn and feed often to keep things pumping. This however is avoidable by adding back some of the original water to buffer the water once more. There is no other very effective cure and the throwing of a Calcium/ Magnesium product at the problem gets worse over time. Adding a higher EC of the nutrients is a better and safer option.
Picture 4: Schematic overview of a tensiometer
Most importantly, the buffering done to coco puts what could be considered a coating on the coco that allows the coco to only show the correct pH and does not interfere so much with availability of nutritive elements. The coco is always changing as it decomposes and the coating must also change and repair. The nutrients designed for the coco are critical in this effort and maintenance of the buffer. Any other ratio and composition of nutrients will not hold the buffer, including plain water which makes the coco EC drop and the buffer disappear. Equally important is following the correct feed chart and testing coco correctly.
this is copy pasted from the article above, but it will explain the coco problems you are having
Picture 4: Schematic overview of a tensiometer
Most importantly, the buffering done to coco puts what could be considered a coating on the coco that allows the coco to only show the correct pH and does not interfere so much with availability of nutritive elements. The coco is always changing as it decomposes and the coating must also change and repair. The nutrients designed for the coco are critical in this effort and maintenance of the buffer. Any other ratio and composition of nutrients will not hold the buffer, including plain water which makes the coco EC drop and the buffer disappear. Equally important is following the correct feed chart and testing coco correctly.
this is copy pasted from the article above, but it will explain the coco problems you are having
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- #46
The advantages of Batmix
Looks like soil not Coco to me
- Complete fertilisation for at least six weeks.
- Extra phosphorus and potassium from added bat manure.
- Enhances smell and taste.
- This product is suitable for organic farming (CU certified).
Looks like soil not Coco to me
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- #48
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- #49
I thought it was nute burn to be honest
Ya two different things for sure
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
ok so if it is soil it is most likely a cal/mag defiency due to the 6.0 ph nutes going in, calcium and magnesium best absorbed in soil at ph 6.5
in coco its 6.0
resolve the ph issue and shouldnt be any problem, just start watering with 6.5 ph and your plants should be all good.
ph range for soil - 6.0-7.0
ph range for coco (hydroponic) 5.5-6.5
in coco its 6.0
resolve the ph issue and shouldnt be any problem, just start watering with 6.5 ph and your plants should be all good.
ph range for soil - 6.0-7.0
ph range for coco (hydroponic) 5.5-6.5
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
if it was nute burn youd have yellow tips on all your leaves, from the pictures it doesnt look like nute burn
only time i see my leaves getting like that for me personally is at the end of flowering when you want the leaves to start looking like that
only time i see my leaves getting like that for me personally is at the end of flowering when you want the leaves to start looking like that
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- #53
It’s just the bottom leaves and as you said it’s like how I’d expect at end of flowering. My leds have a blue/white option and a red/orange option.for autos should I run both at same time? Or just the blue for veg? Some say both others say just blue then both for flowering
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
id say both at same time, you want max power, id say use just the veg/blue switch for seedlings and starting clones
yeah leds for some reason make the plant use more calcium and magnesium
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
so whatcha end up doing? any updates?
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- #56
hey man yeah I fed one of them calmag and a small amount of nutes, in the hope it’s a def, but on the same hand the other guy had a point so with my other plant I’ll hold off. If I lose one plant to my rookie nature then so be it. I’m doing this as a project/hobby rather than trying to cut corners etc. So trial and error until I get it right.
Use guys are a great help though, hidden gem this forum
Use guys are a great help though, hidden gem this forum
hjayu94
Well-Known Member
Hey, comment from earlier on in thread.. I saw pic of the 3 part nutrient system with micro/grow/bloom I believe?
I've been learning these 3 part systems myself. You are NOT to mix to nutrients directly together. You are however supossed to use all 3 at once, mixed in different water jugs. The bottles should have a chart for mixing ratios for each stage. Much more "bloom" for example, will be mixed in at the flower stage then veg.
I am new to growing, but was just doing research on 3 part nutrients for a few days now!
I've been learning these 3 part systems myself. You are NOT to mix to nutrients directly together. You are however supossed to use all 3 at once, mixed in different water jugs. The bottles should have a chart for mixing ratios for each stage. Much more "bloom" for example, will be mixed in at the flower stage then veg.
I am new to growing, but was just doing research on 3 part nutrients for a few days now!
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- #58
Barney86
Well-Known Member
They're stunted from the hot soil mate. If theyre autos you'll be lucky to get a half oz off each. Ph is wrong too. Should be around 7 for soil. I'd cut your losses and focus on the coco plants tbh.
No more than quarter strength nutes for the first few weeks and keep the ph around 6. Always feed them to run off and feed them every day. Gotta treat it the complete opposite of soil.
No more than quarter strength nutes for the first few weeks and keep the ph around 6. Always feed them to run off and feed them every day. Gotta treat it the complete opposite of soil.
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- #60
Had a feeling they were goners to be honest! They had a great start, then stunted as you say. Tbh I feel it’d be lucky to flower anything . Trial and error
