Hydro Grow Problems

@Rexer @West Hippie Frankly I would say there is a high probability that I spilled something on it LMAO (as far as the sap stuff goes).

I have necrosis in all my joints and am not the smoothest moving dude around so probably did this while feeding. I'll clean it off assuming that's the case.

Honestly, the white could be the same but I am not sure. I don't think they're mites because I can't remove it. It's stuck on there pretty good and not moving. Should I get some neem oil anyway? I take it this means you guys don't think it looks like mildew then? The situation hasn't changed since posting those pics.

BTW, I wound up going with the General Hydroponics cal-mag.
 
OK guys, my PH and PPM are rising, and I can't really tell if the water level is falling. I would say its either not falling, or that its falling so slow I can't really tell the difference.

My plants are way worse. Not really sure what to do. PPM is 890 right now which is up from 850 the night before. PH is 6.2 up from 6.0 before.

RH is 55%, Water temp right now is 75 F which is a little warm but I have chillers on the way and didnt think this temp would cause this issue.

Here's are pics of the plants. They're growing new foilage but it quickly gets hit by this. It seems to start at the tip of the leaves. Any other thoughts?

20211022_002638.jpg


20211022_002631.jpg
 
When you flushed the puck did you get those leaves wet under the light ? Just bring the ph back down to 5.8 . 890 from 850 ppm sounds like the water level went down concentrating the nutrients. 75 degrees is not bad 70 is better. As Stoned Ape asked about the roots, are they still white like Monday?
 
I would say they are still white. Perhaps ever so slightly darker from being in the nutrient solution but they are white and a consistent color...

And no I didn't get them wet all new leaves take on this decay starting at the ends. I brought the ph down as sugessted. My chillers are taking forever to get here but didn't think 75 was hot enough to cause this (aside from creating an environment for root rot which does not appear to be an issue here)
 
I would say they are still white. Perhaps ever so slightly darker from being in the nutrient solution but they are white and a consistent color...

And no I didn't get them wet all new leaves take on this decay starting at the ends. I brought the ph down as sugessted. My chillers are taking forever to get here but didn't think 75 was hot enough to cause this (aside from creating an environment for root rot which does not appear to be an issue here)
No 75 degrees didn’t do that . And those roots were good and white the last time we saw them .
 
PPM is 585
That was last Tuesday
OK guys, my PH and PPM are rising, and I can't really tell if the water level is falling. I would say its either not falling, or that its falling so slow I can't really tell the difference.

My plants are way worse. Not really sure what to do. PPM is 890 right now which is up from 850 the night before. PH is 6.2 up from 6.0 before.

RH is 55%, Water temp right now is 75 F which is a little warm but I have chillers on the way and didnt think this temp would cause this issue.

Here's are pics of the plants. They're growing new foilage but it quickly gets hit by this. It seems to start at the tip of the leaves. Any other thoughts?
Today your PPM is 890 (up from 850).

When did you do the bump? Was it a huge bump? What decided the bump?





Just asking to make sure the bases are covered
 
Nah, I didn't bump it, it was just higher on its own. The reason I brought it up was that I was trying to figure out where the plant is at based on the table provided by Rexer to try and figure out what to do. At the time I wasn't sure if the water level was falling though.

That said, @West Hippie makes a great point which is that the raise may have come from the water level going down and concentrating the nutrients.
 
OK so if PPM and PH are rising and water level is falling, which seems to be the case, then can we safely assume I need to decrease EC based on Rexers table?

How much of a decrease should I go for?
Wow 585 and you didn’t do any adds . 890 now , did the tds say ppm or ec when you checked it . I’ve done that before, now I just buy the ppm no ec . @Rexer has a point .
 
PPM drops down- water drops down- pH goes up =You are good
ppm goes up- water goes down- PH goes down= you are over feeding
PPM drops- water dosn't drop-PH goes up= under feeding
Good PPM without Mag and the plant can not take up any nutes. Mag is the carrier. The purple stems indicate mag deficiency. The yellowing is nitrogen deficiency due to no mag to carry it.
 
Between 585 & 850 there WAS an add. I added cal-mag and moved up to the full vegatiation stage amount listed on the general hydroponics bottle since my plants had gone from seedlings to more than seedlings.

However, the problem has always been and remains the saim (symptoms are unchanged) and the plant has grown a lot since starting this thread.

The increase I was referring to was from 850 to 890 as that is what Rexers comment was referring to.
 
Yup, cal mag.


Dump your res.

If using RO water

Add in cal mag, look for a target of roughly 100ppm worth (assuming a 1-0-0).
Add in your trio to bring total ppm to 600 ppm

then ph adjust.


@West Hippie @Sativa1970

Thoughts on those target PPM for his stage of plants? Kinda a shot in the dark and I'm guessing
 
Yup, cal mag.


Dump your res.

If using RO water

Add in cal mag, look for a target of roughly 100ppm worth (assuming a 1-0-0).
Add in your trio to bring total ppm to 600ppm

then ph adjust.


@West Hippie @Sativa1970

Thoughts on those target PPM for his stage of plants?
Yes to 600 ppm. 2 mL a gallon calmag should give you 100 ppm . Some daily pics would help . You know the center actually looks good . The first pic it bottom leaves are about spent . The second has a piece of a leaf on the bottom left needs to go also . Can’t see anything else but the center is healthy.
 
Question,

So general hydroponics nutrients comes with three different bottles and you are supposed to combine them based on a table they provide on the bottle.

The table shows that you can combine all three bottles from the get-go, and lists an amount from seedling to bloom for all three bottles. This makes it seem like you should use all three,

That said, if you read the verbal instructions, it says that the pink bottle (bloom) is for the flowering phase.

I have been using it and wondering now if I have nutrient lock because they are so early in their lives. Its very confusing since it lists in the table that you can give 1 tbs per gallon in the seedling and vegetative phases but then says its only for flowering.

Anyone know if this is the problem?
 
I've never run the GH Trio to be honest. Closest I've done is a Lucas Formula grow using the GH Micro +Bloom (no grow used).

Yup- hydroguard last, won't effect PPM
 
I went to Amazon but can’t get the chart for the trio and the complaints on the bottles instructions they are confusing also in the reviews.
 
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