Overwatered or Underwatered?
- Thread starter Dasull757
- Start date
Hey 757,
welcome to 420. No one can help without more info, what’s your grow media, nutes, are you adjusting ph etc etc..... How to ask for grow support
welcome to 420. No one can help without more info, what’s your grow media, nutes, are you adjusting ph etc etc..... How to ask for grow support
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks for the response. So this being my first plant I used MG organic(black and yellow bag)..I am using Tiger Bloom, didn’t want to add too much because of it being MG. I am letting water sit for a while not adjusting Ph, but did order a reader and PH up and down off amazon. Under a Maxsisun PB1500
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Hi @Dasull757 and welcome to the forum! 
It is very important to adjust pH when using synthetic nutes such as the Fox Farm line, so I would suggest that you carefully adjust every fluid to hit your plants to 6.3 pH once you get your meter, whether it be plain water or water mixed with nutes. Adjust your pH immediately before applying the liquid to the soil and all will be fine... the soil will take care of itself and there is no need to worry about its pH.
The MG unfortunately does not have the minerals built into it in the amounts needed to support a blooming plant... it is very good soil to use while still in veg, but right about now your plants need more then they are getting from that soil. Download the FoxFarm feeding chart, and use the Tiger Bloom and the Big Bloomz as recommended... don't cut back on the recommended dosage because you think the soil is full of the proper nutrients... it is not... instead, trust Fox Farms when it comes to how best to use their nutes and follow their directions to the letter.
There is also no need to worry about the chlorine in your water in this type of grow, so there is no need to set your water out, even if that still was a viable way to clear out the modern day chlorine additions to city tap water. Chlorine is actually one of the elements these plants need in order to grow properly, in small amounts anyway. There is no reason to be afraid of the little bit of chlorine in your city water unless you are running a water only organic grow, where you would be concerned about keeping the microbes in the soil going strong.
Lastly, it appears to me that your plants are being over watered. It is very important not to drown the lower roots in a weed grow. In veg we must try to let the soil dry out completely between waterings, all the way down to the very bottom of the container. This is how we force the plant to grow larger and stronger roots and how we get oxygen down to those lower roots. If you don't periodically allow oxygen down to the lower roots, even during bloom, the lower roots can get in big trouble. Just looking at the down turned leaves all over your plant, I am suspecting that this is the case here, and that your roots are no longer capable of drawing up enough water so as to build up the water pressure in the trunk and stems, to be able to lift those leaves toward the light. This can be fixed, but I want to leave you with a request to explain your watering practices, such as how you determine it is time to water, and how much water you give in any one watering session, and I will give you an adage to ponder as we start to discuss your situation:
You can not over water by giving too much water in one session, since the soil can only hold a set amount of water before it starts to run out of the bottom. You can only over water a weed by watering too often, or before the soil has been allowed to dry out all the way to the bottom. So please indulge me, and explain to me how you do things, and I am betting that in that answer we will get to the bottom of your problem.
It is very important to adjust pH when using synthetic nutes such as the Fox Farm line, so I would suggest that you carefully adjust every fluid to hit your plants to 6.3 pH once you get your meter, whether it be plain water or water mixed with nutes. Adjust your pH immediately before applying the liquid to the soil and all will be fine... the soil will take care of itself and there is no need to worry about its pH.
The MG unfortunately does not have the minerals built into it in the amounts needed to support a blooming plant... it is very good soil to use while still in veg, but right about now your plants need more then they are getting from that soil. Download the FoxFarm feeding chart, and use the Tiger Bloom and the Big Bloomz as recommended... don't cut back on the recommended dosage because you think the soil is full of the proper nutrients... it is not... instead, trust Fox Farms when it comes to how best to use their nutes and follow their directions to the letter.
There is also no need to worry about the chlorine in your water in this type of grow, so there is no need to set your water out, even if that still was a viable way to clear out the modern day chlorine additions to city tap water. Chlorine is actually one of the elements these plants need in order to grow properly, in small amounts anyway. There is no reason to be afraid of the little bit of chlorine in your city water unless you are running a water only organic grow, where you would be concerned about keeping the microbes in the soil going strong.
Lastly, it appears to me that your plants are being over watered. It is very important not to drown the lower roots in a weed grow. In veg we must try to let the soil dry out completely between waterings, all the way down to the very bottom of the container. This is how we force the plant to grow larger and stronger roots and how we get oxygen down to those lower roots. If you don't periodically allow oxygen down to the lower roots, even during bloom, the lower roots can get in big trouble. Just looking at the down turned leaves all over your plant, I am suspecting that this is the case here, and that your roots are no longer capable of drawing up enough water so as to build up the water pressure in the trunk and stems, to be able to lift those leaves toward the light. This can be fixed, but I want to leave you with a request to explain your watering practices, such as how you determine it is time to water, and how much water you give in any one watering session, and I will give you an adage to ponder as we start to discuss your situation:
You can not over water by giving too much water in one session, since the soil can only hold a set amount of water before it starts to run out of the bottom. You can only over water a weed by watering too often, or before the soil has been allowed to dry out all the way to the bottom. So please indulge me, and explain to me how you do things, and I am betting that in that answer we will get to the bottom of your problem.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thank you so much, that was very informative, I really appreciate the knowledge provided. One additional question, should I hold off on tiger bloom until I get my ph products? Also I use my knuckle to see if the soil is dry, I guess I have water even when the soil was not dry but a little moist(in fear of not giving it enough water). Being my first time I’m just overthinking I guess. I try to read on how much water to give a plant during flower but I mostly get that it really just depends on the plant and setup the person has. For the most part I try to do a gallon every other day. I’m thinking now though that even if the soil is moist and not all the way dry than it is still fine for the roots...btw thank you for the warm welcome to the forum.Hi @Dasull757 and welcome to the forum!
It is very important to adjust pH when using synthetic nutes such as the Fox Farm line, so I would suggest that you carefully adjust every fluid to hit your plants to 6.3 pH once you get your meter, whether it be plain water or water mixed with nutes. Adjust your pH immediately before applying the liquid to the soil and all will be fine... the soil will take care of itself and there is no need to worry about its pH.
The MG unfortunately does not have the minerals built into it in the amounts needed to support a blooming plant... it is very good soil to use while still in veg, but right about now your plants need more then they are getting from that soil. Download the FoxFarm feeding chart, and use the Tiger Bloom and the Big Bloomz as recommended... don't cut back on the recommended dosage because you think the soil is full of the proper nutrients... it is not... instead, trust Fox Farms when it comes to how best to use their nutes and follow their directions to the letter.
There is also no need to worry about the chlorine in your water in this type of grow, so there is no need to set your water out, even if that still was a viable way to clear out the modern day chlorine additions to city tap water. Chlorine is actually one of the elements these plants need in order to grow properly, in small amounts anyway. There is no reason to be afraid of the little bit of chlorine in your city water unless you are running a water only organic grow, where you would be concerned about keeping the microbes in the soil going strong.
Lastly, it appears to me that your plants are being over watered. It is very important not to drown the lower roots in a weed grow. In veg we must try to let the soil dry out completely between waterings, all the way down to the very bottom of the container. This is how we force the plant to grow larger and stronger roots and how we get oxygen down to those lower roots. If you don't periodically allow oxygen down to the lower roots, even during bloom, the lower roots can get in big trouble. Just looking at the down turned leaves all over your plant, I am suspecting that this is the case here, and that your roots are no longer capable of drawing up enough water so as to build up the water pressure in the trunk and stems, to be able to lift those leaves toward the light. This can be fixed, but I want to leave you with a request to explain your watering practices, such as how you determine it is time to water, and how much water you give in any one watering session, and I will give you an adage to ponder as we start to discuss your situation:
You can not over water by giving too much water in one session, since the soil can only hold a set amount of water before it starts to run out of the bottom. You can only over water a weed by watering too often, or before the soil has been allowed to dry out all the way to the bottom. So please indulge me, and explain to me how you do things, and I am betting that in that answer we will get to the bottom of your problem.
When did you take that picture?Just wanted to know, I’ve been trying to water when dry.
What time of the 'day'?
And the reason I put day in quotes is because I am talking about the plants day.
Is is close to when their lights go out?
I have one strain in a room, I think it's Gelatto ... about an hour before 'lights out' they droop like this. The first time I saw it I though "what the fuk'' and started looking for a reason.
The lady that's in charge of that room told me that "Oh yea, they get sleepy at the end of the day. They're ready for bed time."
I didn't believe it, so I went in the next day an hour after lights on ... and they were all perked up and happy, basking in the warm light, and singing in three part harmony.
Is it possible that your girl is just working hard, all day long, and needs her beauty rest?
I know for sure that MY leaves are drooping by the end of the day.
Wow. A books worth of info there
Just a comment on the visual of the plant. Nothing more
If a plant is under watered the whole leaf sags. Stem and all
If a plant is improperly watered it will look like yours
Your plant looks healthyish and too big to not have been treated somewhat decently
My suggestion is to read up on watering techniques as i am sure em suggested
Karma sent to er friend
Just a comment on the visual of the plant. Nothing more
If a plant is under watered the whole leaf sags. Stem and all
If a plant is improperly watered it will look like yours
Your plant looks healthyish and too big to not have been treated somewhat decently
My suggestion is to read up on watering techniques as i am sure em suggested
Karma sent to er friend
- Thread starter
- #8
I was running 18/6 but read that 24 hours during flower was okay. Maybe I should switch back? I just took this picture this morning.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thank you, should I cut back on watering until I can PH it? Or are you saying, the amount of water and frequency of me watering her is where I’m messing up at? Will this hurt the bud development?
Cant comment on the ph. I dont know
Learn all you can on watering a potted plant
So. Yes. It is frequency and amount
And yes again. It affects bud development
Learn all you can on watering a potted plant
So. Yes. It is frequency and amount
And yes again. It affects bud development
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I would like you to read my link on how to properly water a potted plant. The knuckle method is for watering vegetables in the outdoor garden, not weeds in a container. The knuckle method has killed more grows than I can number... please look for and study the "lift the pot" method of determining when it is time to water.
When you water, treat the soil as if it were a sponge, and get every single drop of water you can get the soil to hold in there, where any extra water would simply run off out of the bottom drainage holes. Then, instead of watering every day, and constantly keeping the the lower roots under water, sit on your hands for a week if you have to, and do not water again until the plants are dry and light as a feather, all the way down to the bottom of the container. If you lift the container at this point, it will be as light as a feather, or as light as a similarly sized container filled with DRY soil.
The first time you do this wet/dry cycle, it will take a while, because your lower roots are severely damaged. It very well could take 5 days to a week to get to where you need to be. The cool thing is that once you let that soil dry out and oxygen can get to those lower roots, they will start working again, and the plant will send out new roots looking for the very last water left in the container. Each time you push the plant through this process, the roots get stronger and thicker, and each time you go through this wet/dry cycle, the time between waterings will steadily diminish, until finally your plants will be able to drain the container in a very short time... even one day. When you get to this point, it will be time to transplant to a larger container....
but, you are already in bloom... so you will not be transplanting... you just want healthy roots. The strategy now needs to be a little different than if you were still in veg. While in bloom you want to try to get your plant to use as much water as it can suck up, so usually you dont want to do such a deep wet/dry cycle... maybe watering one day earlier than you would during veg when you are trying to use up all of that water in the soil before watering again. Letting the plants go dry, even to the point of wilting a bit, is not going to harm a blooming plant either, and in your case, it is necessary to revitalize the roots. Those who advocate never to let a blooming plant go dry, are simply wrong... I do it all the time, and I am an organic gardener who relies on microbes to feed my plants... exactly the type of grower that they say should never let their plants go dry. I have realized that forcing oxygen down the very deepest roots about every 3rd or 4th watering, by letting the plants go almost completely dry, is like a flush in a synthetic grow... that hit of oxygen supercharges the grow and gives a bit of drought stress to the plant who will react to that by growing more trichomes.
Please read my watering article... all the way to the end, since how to water in bloom comes in several pages into the thread. I am sure that the information you find in that thread, will change the way you grow this weed. Good luck!
- Thread starter
- #12
No, no.
That's not what I'm suggesting.
If your lights go out at ... say 6pm, sometimes the plants 'know' that it is the end of their day, and start going to sleep at 5pm.
You've seen a plant sleep right?
Droopy leaves just like that.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
a proof of sentience can be seen when healthy plants will also anticipate the dawn and will "wake up" by increasing transpiration and therefore the water pressure in the trunk, allowing the plant to lift all of the leaves above horizontal in order to greet the morning sun. If you are never seeing lift, it has to be the roots.
Yes. I've seen that too.
In a room a half hour before lights on, wearing a green light and they're all awake. Tips up, aiming at the light that's not on quite yet.
Amazing creatures.
CBD BudMan
Well-Known Member
Hello there. Just wanted to give a big "Thank You" to @Auggie and @Emilya. U 2 have finally solidified what I have suspected for years now. I'm an outdoor grower and I see this EVERY day. At dusk, I see leaves arc down a bit; not wilted or droopy, just arced down. Then, at 1st light, when U can barely see ANYthing, I go out to my garden and all the leaves have their tips up to the sky, as if by magic. 1st, I thought I must be crazy for thinking that this was the intelligence of the plant(s) actually anticipating the sunrise. When I was convinced this is what it was, I kept it to myself. Now, I have wonderful people like you to assure me that I'm not the only one noticing this.
This is an amazing plant. Growing such a wise plant with such healing qualities, is truly humbling... and so freaking awesome!
using lights with far reds will help plants shut down quicker , using all blue they will shut down but will take a few hours to do so , 
just thought id chuck that in
just thought id chuck that in- Thread starter
- #18
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I used to run a single small halogen bulb in my tent for 20 minutes after "sunrise" and 20 minutes before "sunset" because of its far red light spectrum output. This simulates the far red seen on the horizon at the real sunrise and sunset, and it is known to not only wake the plants up and put them to sleep faster but it is also supposed to help them orient their vertical height better resulting in shorter internodal length and stretch. In commercial greenhouse operations, these far red emitters are known as "trigger lights" and it is very common to see professional gardeners using this technique.using lights with far reds will help plants shut down quicker , using all blue they will shut down but will take a few hours to do so ,
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Hi @Dasull757 and welcome to the forum!Just an update now that I’ve let her dry out and started PH’ing water..
How do you "start to pH water?" Is yours a long process?
