- Thread starter
- #41
keith1975
Well-Known Member
Check my specs of the other soil. It was happening with that soil too
Starting to think it's my water.
Plants keep burning, I don't know what to do anymore
- Thread starter keith1975
- Start date
Check my specs of the other soil. It was happening with that soil too
Starting to think it's my water.
Aliens
113% sure
It's Aliens
Or what VG says
113% sure
It's Aliens
Or what VG says
Did you use teas and amendments in that mix?? Did you give just straight water too?Check my specs of the other soil. It was happening with that soil too
Starting to think it's my water.
It could be the same thing. Lack of food, micro heard dying off, possible high pH.
What kind of pH meter or test kit are you using??
If you are using municipal tap, are you allowing it to sit out for at least 24 hrs??
It will not only gas off chlorine ( vitamin C to remove both chlorine and chloramines) but will also give your water time to become pH stable.
This depends on your water source.
I let mine sit out. I have to. It goes from 8.3 down to 7.5 in that time.
That's almost 10x higher pH.
You can do an experiment. Take readings straight from the tap and then from a container of water left to gas off , uncovered. See what happens to your
pH.
It will not only gas off chlorine ( vitamin C to remove both chlorine and chloramines) but will also give your water time to become pH stable.
This depends on your water source.
I let mine sit out. I have to. It goes from 8.3 down to 7.5 in that time.
That's almost 10x higher pH.
You can do an experiment. Take readings straight from the tap and then from a container of water left to gas off , uncovered. See what happens to your
pH.
Tried to find a water hardness map for Africa. Came up empty handed.
No no no you gotta use the armadillo helmet! 
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
Two things can cause leaves to look like that.
Light bleaching which at 39" shouldn't be the problem.
Iron deficiency which is usually because of soil pH being well above 7 and or could have way excessive amounts of other nutrients such as copper causing a nutrient lock out of iron.
I would flush with water pH'd to about 6 to 6.2 .
If its 5 gallon pots flush with at least 15 gallon of pH'd water.
You could do a soil test at Logan Labs or a local place if you have one.
If two completely different soils did this exact same thing with leaves turning white then its likely your water source.
Can change the soil one more time to something like a buildasoil Oly Mountain modern mix 2 and try using RO water pH'd down to 6.3.
Maybe your water has massive amounts of copper in it causing a lockout?
Light bleaching which at 39" shouldn't be the problem.
Iron deficiency which is usually because of soil pH being well above 7 and or could have way excessive amounts of other nutrients such as copper causing a nutrient lock out of iron.
I would flush with water pH'd to about 6 to 6.2 .
If its 5 gallon pots flush with at least 15 gallon of pH'd water.
You could do a soil test at Logan Labs or a local place if you have one.
If two completely different soils did this exact same thing with leaves turning white then its likely your water source.
Can change the soil one more time to something like a buildasoil Oly Mountain modern mix 2 and try using RO water pH'd down to 6.3.
Maybe your water has massive amounts of copper in it causing a lockout?
Did he ever mention the ppm of his water source
Asking for a friend
Asking for a friend
thinkbetter12
Well-Known Member
Run off won’t tell you anything in soil. Insignificant factor.
If you have a soil buffered to 6.5, you input at 6.2, as it dries, your pH will rise (the drift), allowing for all necessary nutrients to be available to the plant.
If your soil is requiring 5.5-6 input, and you are putting in at 7.x, you not getting anything hardly to the plant.
If you’re not feeding them, and just relying on the soil... that’s a whole other story. In that case you’d need to feed microbes in order for them to break down the organic matter in the soil. In that scenario, pH isn’t as significant.
I’ve read through the thread and this is what I was thinking. Plants are maybe underfed and perhaps the water (off the tap?) hasn’t been set to breath before applying, causing lockout.
I used to be so afraid to over fertilize I had some weak struggling plants because I didn’t feed them enough and the soil was relatively inert.
Air to roots adequate? Lights off temp seems relevant as well. Good luck bud. You’ll get it figured out if you keep going over all the possible pitfalls.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
It seems simple to me... the plants indeed are starving. Everything they might need is in that strong soil, but there has been no effort to care about the population of the microbes that do all the work so that you can do a water only grow using that soil. Without massive populations of microbes working in that soil, the feeding cycle has stopped... and the deficiencies that are now showing are impressive.
Immediately work on getting the microbe population up. That means using water that has been dechlorinated... lake water would be better for the microbes than what comes out of the municipal tap. Start adding microbes, as quickly and as strongly as you can. I don't know what is available to you there, but see if you can find Voodoo Juice, URB, RealGrowers Recharge or some other microbial injection product that is available to you there. Other than that, you need to make some flowering specific compost teas or start feeding the plants from a bottle.
Immediately work on getting the microbe population up. That means using water that has been dechlorinated... lake water would be better for the microbes than what comes out of the municipal tap. Start adding microbes, as quickly and as strongly as you can. I don't know what is available to you there, but see if you can find Voodoo Juice, URB, RealGrowers Recharge or some other microbial injection product that is available to you there. Other than that, you need to make some flowering specific compost teas or start feeding the plants from a bottle.
- Thread starter
- #53
keith1975
Well-Known Member
i've got vermipur, which is worm castings. Will that work?
Any how do I dechlorinate the water? I think someone said I can just leave it in a bottle in the sun for a day?
If you are using municipal tap, are you allowing it to sit out for at least 24 hrs??
It will not only gas off chlorine ( vitamin C to remove both chlorine and chloramines) but will also give your water time to become pH stable.
This depends on your water source.
I let mine sit out. I have to. It goes from 8.3 down to 7.5 in that time.
That's almost 10x higher pH.
You can do an experiment. Take readings straight from the tap and then from a container of water left to gas off , uncovered. See what happens to your
pH.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
you have lots and lots to learn, but keep at it... diving in with both feet works well to shorten that learning curve. Most modern water treatment plants no longer use chlorine because over time it is expensive to keep putting something in the system that evaporates out, and then now use chloramine, and setting it out for a year will not evaporate out the microbe killing chlorine. Over time, even in the small amounts in tap water you can kill the microlife in a container. Filtering or processing with vitamin c is the best solution. One vit C tablet in a bathtub full of water will neutralize the chlorine products and drop them to the bottom of the tub as sediment. You can fill many gallon jugs this way for use later.
Worm castings are great but the problem is that they are a collection of a little bit of everything, but it will take forever to build up the amounts of microlife that you need using just them, in the time that you have. You need a microbial innoculation, yesterday. I suggest ordering something yet today and hope that shipping gets it to you in time. Meanwhile, I would feed with a good organic 5-5-5 fertilizer so the plants are at least getting a mix of everything they need, and even though it won't be in the proper proportions, it is better than nothing as you transition back into an organic grow as quickly as you can. Remember that it is going to take the microbes around 48 hours to get the feeding cycle going too... time is a wasting.
Or, you could feed from a bottle. You can save this though, but you need to move fast.
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- #56
keith1975
Well-Known Member
Before I was watering from a watering can, which didnt cause this. Now I'm watering directly from the hose. Hmmmmm. I think this might be it!
- Thread starter
- #57
keith1975
Well-Known Member
I have fulvates and humates, and vermipure. And normal fertilizer. And molasses. I'm going to try and make a proper concoction of what is needed and see if that helps. But I'm really thinking it's the PH in the water and letting it stand as I'm doing now, will solve the problem.
- Thread starter
- #58
keith1975
Well-Known Member
I should have answers regarding the water soon:
Got both of them, not sure if the second one will help. But I'm desperate. Let me see what readings I get! Really hoping I can blame the water!
Got both of them, not sure if the second one will help. But I'm desperate. Let me see what readings I get! Really hoping I can blame the water!
- Thread starter
- #59
keith1975
Well-Known Member
The first results are in, but I don't know what they mean. I got:
From the tap: 450 us, 21.2 degrees Celcius
From the hose: 461 us, 20.4 degrees Celcius
Distilled water: 77 us, 21.3 degrees Celcius
Dont know what it means, but that can't be good, right? The fact that distilled water gets a reading that is 80% less than the other water?
Thoughts?
From the tap: 450 us, 21.2 degrees Celcius
From the hose: 461 us, 20.4 degrees Celcius
Distilled water: 77 us, 21.3 degrees Celcius
Dont know what it means, but that can't be good, right? The fact that distilled water gets a reading that is 80% less than the other water?
Thoughts?
Distilled water is pure water and it is actually difficult to get a decent reading, just not enough ions. Distilled is used to rinse off your probe.
Make sure you are storing your pens correctly. They will last much longer and hold their calibration much better.
Essentially for all but a few models, pH pens die if they dry out.
Make sure you are storing your pens correctly. They will last much longer and hold their calibration much better.
Essentially for all but a few models, pH pens die if they dry out.
