Seedling not looking healthy

Ok guess Home Depot tomorrow for a pen.
I heard the pens have to be calibrated constantly I'm 62 yrs old and not Tech savvy.
Is that true? TY
Yup, one of the reasons they like to sell buffering solution. I pH'd my water and it is 6.8 here. My pH pen gave me a different reading of 7.2 first time I used it out of the box. I then dipped it in distilled vinegar as I read in other threads it's pH is 2.4 so I adjusted it the pH pen to that and then rinsed it and tried my tap water. Got a read of 6.8 and the tds meter says 15ppm. I am feeding my plants Nestle pure life water and it is TDS 97. Don't know about the pH but plants look healthy except for one I was toasting with air from my tent heater. lol. I plan on using Nestle for the whole grow. On edit I used a dome as a makeshift greenhouse. See pic, The diamond nectar is a 1 liter size for comparison.
1737120
 
I see a couple of things here...
I agree with Mr. Sauga about the soil, but I also notice that you have barely used any soil at all in that cup. You have the plant started, so now lets put some real soil underneath her. Use your present cup, and lift this rootball up and throw some stronger potting soil under her and plop her back down in there about 1/2 inch from the top. These weeds are deep rooters, and they prefer a deeper pot rather than a wider pot.
Then, when you have enough soil under her, with some actual nutrient value to it, merge those soils by watering completely until you achieve runoff. Then, establish a wet/dry cycle with that plant, letting it use all of that water before watering again. Read my article on properly watering for how to really increase root growth and establish control over the watering cycle.
Also, roots don't like light. I suggest sitting your clear cups down into an opaque cup to block the light, but still allow you to lift them up and look at the roots.
 
I'm not a fan of BlueLab, as they lack the accuracy I want. Their measurement accuracy is 0.1 pH, with a precision of 0.1 pH, which means the reading can be off by ±0.2 pH. This applies to both the pen and meter styles. The meter is three times the expense of the pen, with the added benefit of a replaceable probe for $80 NZD. Despite this, many here swear by them.

I've used generic pH pens with an accuracy of 0.05 pH, and precision of 0.01pH for a reading that's ± 0.06 pH. The drawback is that these are not available with a self-calibration function. You need to adjust them with a jeweler's screw driver. They also don't have replaceable probes. The cost was low at under $15 USD.

I currently use a HM Digital pH-200. It has a replaceable probe (under $30 USD), and an automatic calibration function. It costs less than the BlueLab pen at $66.59 USD vs $134.00 USD. It's accuracy is 0.02 pH and precision of 0.01 pH are both better than the BlueLab offerings, giving a reading that's within ±0.03pH.

Whatever you choose, I strongly suggest that you check the calibration of your device before each use. They do drift.

pH test paper and solutions are less accurate than any pen. They also rely on your eyes, which if you are older are not as good at discerning color as they were when we were in our twenties.
 
I currently use a HM Digital pH-200. It has a replaceable probe (under $30 USD), and an automatic calibration function. It costs less than the BlueLab pen at $66.59 USD vs $134.00 USD. It's accuracy is 0.02 pH and precision of 0.01 pH are both better than the BlueLab offerings, giving a reading that's within ±0.03pH.
I'll be looking at that one next. I love the HM line tbh. Thanks OS!
 
Can't there be bad bacteria in the soil that can cause yellowing and/or death?

I saw one guy online who diluted hydrogen peroxide and poured into the soil (not on the plant) and his bean plants recovered from being almost dead from bacteria in compost that was not decomposed enough.

He said it was H2O2 that turns into H2O and O , so it just turns into water and oxygen.

He said it kills the bad bacteria in the soil though when it first goes in. (kills the plant too if not diluted)

Maybe he was full of crap, but if it starts to die, then you could give that a try as a last resort.

Does that sound like an urban myth, or what do you guys think about the hydrogen peroxide to kill the bacteria?
 
The Apera and the HM are comperable in price, mine was $68.99. The Apera comes with a hard case and starter calibration and storage solution. It also turns red if it goes outside set parameters. Gives you a smiley face when your reading is stable. My favorite part is its huge blue backlit screen. It is super easy to read.
 
I had the opportunity to use a blue lab pH pen before I bought mine. The blue lab felt light and kinda cheap tbh. Can't replace the probe either.
 
That's allot of info. Thanks so much. If anyone has other ideas feel free to jump in here.
I going to work right now on all the suggestions.
Starting with the solo cup, I thought it be a good idea clear cups to see root progress , that's what forums like this are so valuable.
Never thought or would have thought of any of these suggestions.
Tomorrow better soil , thinking of some Happy Frog to mix in?
PH pens are going to be a new world to me.
Gotta learn or go home right?
Humor side is this is a friggin weed for heaven sake, lol.
 
You just want to cover the soil area. Clear cups are not recommended. Most use Blue or Red solos. Get a piece or dark paper and wrap it around and tape. Something simple and easy. Just don't block the drainage holes.
Socks for tonight block the light, soil and this PH pen math problem will be added tomorrow if my baby makes through the night, thank you.
 

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7 days old it's an Auto Flowering Afgan Skunk.
Humidity 66
Heat 77
CFL LIGHTING
Plant is now 6 inches from 32 watt CFL.
Was doing well then suddenly last 2 days developed yellowing pale leaves.
Stunted growth maybe I haven't noticed any height changes.
Opinions , thoughts.
How does it look to you.
FYI soil is moist, maybe guilty of over misting ,
Mine are 7 days 2 can i show you
 
@Wulves can answer that perhaps - I was only commenting that it’s 2 year old thread so plant in question is prolly long gone, sometimes new members will dig up a 10 year old thread not realizing
I didnt dig it up i saw it and click on it then ask if i could show mine because it was same age
 
It’s all good and sorry wasn’t insinuating anything bad…. just that at times very old threads like 10 years old get pulled up and someone will give a fresh resolution like spray the mites with Neem without realized the plant died a decade ago or the original poster hasn’t logged on in 8 years

Wulves is around & can drop some intel when he sees your post
 
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