The need for a "BRIX FAQ" and input for said

[Farang]

what about the time issue?

in the comparatively short growing period of MJ, is high brix cultivation even possible?

seems to me, this technique may only be suitable in the ground where that soil isn't disturbed much. I haven't read anything saying, add this or that to the soil and get quick release results. is it possible that soil prepped for high brix can NOT be changed as the benefits are far more long term than the span of an MJ grow?

 

[Icemud]

From what I have read having a perfect soil environment is only part of the high brix process. Foliar feeding is also a key part to raising brix levels and within a day of a foliar feeding, brix can raise or lower depending on the effectiveness of the spray, as well as how well tuned your soil environment is. When your soil environment is in the right ratios such as a cal/mag of 7:1 up to 20:1, a calcium to potassium level about the same at around 18:1, then the addition of foliar sprays containing micronutrients, simple sugars, and phosphorus will allow the plants to build up higher sugar levels which in turn, get sent to the roots to "feed" the microbiology therefore raising mineral ion uptake and resulting in higher mineral density and higher brix.

On another hand, as far as I have read, perfect soil environments in an outdoor farming application is a long term goal and soil balance and mineralization takes time and from most of the sites that I have read, this may take place over the period of a few growing seasons in an outdoor environment. Since you can't just go buy a few bags of soil and replace the soil on a farm, this is why I believe they say in many websites that time is essential to high brix soils. Now by starting off with a weak acid soil test and determining what exact ratios you are starting with is key, and with indoor growing, you are not having to wait to "perfect your soil" over seasons because you are starting off with fresh soil, that already is balanced in perfect ratios for high brix growing...now will all soils work for high brix growing indoors?? most of the soils that are commercially available are not "perfect" for high brix growing because they are already starting out with either too much P or too much EGRS, or too much N...(for example) and so far, DocBud has done tests on a handful of commercial soils and determined that Promix HP is damn near close to the ratios that AG labs recommends.

High brix MMJ cultivation is possible, I know, DocBud knows and many other's here know as we have pulled out our refractometers to test our plants. My last grow, 2 of 6 of my plants hit a 20+ brix level which from the months of research on the subject, is the highest brix I have found on the internet for cannabis this far. So I definitely believe that it is possible on indoor grows, the problem is high brix growing is very "virgin" in the agricultural market and even more less known in the MMJ realm so information is very hard to come by. So far I have seen Docbuds results and I believe his plants are ranging in the 16-20 range which also is on the top brix measurements recorded that I have come across, so definitely I am a believer that in indoor cultivation it is possible.

 

[Farang]

I was pretty confused by your last paragraph and could not find what EGRS stood for, but otherwise, you make a great case.

thanks!

 

[Javahead]

Hello all, I see it has been busy, and somewhat heated in the discussion here! That's good. I will put in my opinion on the multi-season growing, and mineral breakdown. First off, I look at this, mostly, as a sixth generation farmer. Now, with my soil, the just used soil, root balls and all get broken up, and added to the mulch. As I understand things, this should inoculate the mulch, and add the little bit of soil needed. The soil, is a good high mineral soil, that is being broken down in the mulch. At least it would seem that it would continue to break down more, to me. I have no problem with having a dedicated and isolated mulch. I have 2 acres to play with. This would seem, to me to more, mimic, nature. Then on my next planting, I can take from that mulch, and have a high mineral source for my plants. It should also have lots of organic material breaking down in it. My only thoughts are that the center of the mulch pile would be hot enough to kill the microorganisms, but I think that many would continue to live on the edges. This method, should be sustainable for as long as needed.

 

[Icemud]

I was pretty confused by your last paragraph and could not find what EGRS stood for, but otherwise, you make a great case.

thanks!

EGRS is Energy per Gram released per second, I don't know the exact conversion but I believe its the same as soil EC or conductance. Too much "energy" in the soil will fry the roots, stop nutrient mobilization and can kill a plant, too low an EC then there is not enough available nutrients in the soil for the plant to grow properly.

 

[Curso]

what about the time issue?

in the comparatively short growing period of MJ, is high brix cultivation even possible?

seems to me, this technique may only be suitable in the ground where that soil isn't disturbed much. I haven't read anything saying, add this or that to the soil and get quick release results. is it possible that soil prepped for high brix can NOT be changed as the benefits are far more long term than the span of an MJ grow?

I agree with Icemud 420%
Reuse of the soil is the way to fly, add some worm castings and it's good to go for quite a few runs. The first run of the soil (if uncooked I cook mine for 30 days) is just okay, the 2nd run of the amended soil is fantastic. My last readings were 15 & 17

 

[Farang]

that is encouraging, especially as I've found a good source (and cheap) for bulk worm casings at a local AG college.

but you're not just re-blending the casings into used soil and immediately putting it back to use, are you? aren't you giving it some heat and time?

 

[Curso]

that is encouraging, especially as I've found a good source (and cheap) for bulk worm casings at a local AG college.

but you're not just re-blending the casings into used soil and immediately putting it back to use, are you? aren't you giving it some heat and time?

I put in the castings and used right away. There's no need to recook it if you have a good tea.

 

[Farang]

ooh. you're making me excited.

I think I make good teas, but if you have a recommendation.............................

typically a month before I plant, I saturate my growing medium with worm, fish and molasses tea with some kelp mixed in for good measure. are you recommending more?

 

[Curso]

ooh. you're making me excited.

I think I make good teas, but if you have a recommendation.............................

typically a month before I plant, I saturate my growing medium with worm, fish and molasses tea with some kelp mixed in for good measure. are you recommending more?

Natures Own Tea is some bomb shit