Grass Roots Hi Brix

[seagem]

"DocBud's" Grass Roots Hi Brix

Originally Posted byDocBud

There are four bases to achieving high brix soil:

1.)Foundational minerals. These are your rock powders, Limestone, Soft Rock Phosphate, Gypsum. Other things could conceivably be used as well, but those are cheap, reliable and available. The single most important mineral for High Brix is Calcium, followed by Phosphorus.

2.)Soil Energy. ERGS (Energy Released per Gram per Second). No energy in the soil, no growth of the plant. Fertilizers, organic material, salts....all increase ERGS.

3.)Soil Biology. These are the microbes, nematodes and fungi that inhabit the root zone and break down all the organic material and present it to the plant. We accomplish proper soil biology with humus and we boost it with microbial teas and root inoculates.

4.)Trace Elements. The "micro's." Magnesium, zinc, boron, iron, manganese, copper, molybdenum, sulfur, etc.

We don't put these things in the soil in the typical NPK ratio's that you see on plant food bottles. These things go into the soil in order to make the soil biology happy. For example, most of the phosphorus isn't available to the plant at all. Same with the calcium. But the microbes love it.

The plants, courtesy of the soil life, get anything they want, as much as they want. They never burn, they never lack.

That's the soil.

You supercharge the Brix in the plant tissue via Foliar Feeding. Phosphorus is the "shipping specialist" in the plant. Most things the plant needs come piggy backed as a phosphate, so increasing the phosphorus and calcium levels in the plant increases the sugar content in the leaves, which the plant sends down to the roots in the form of "root exudates." These root exudates feed and signal microbes and fungi that live on the roots, and they take the sugar and use it to form humic/fulvic acids so they can digest minerals and organic matter and feed the plant.

The foliar sprays act like a supercharger, while the soil acts like a gas tank. The microbes are the engine.....and the plants are the passengers who enjoy the ride.

That's High Brix.

 

[seagem]

Originally Posted by donpaul.pim starting to follow now,

the other day i was doing some electrical work, i was using a multi meter, then i got round to doing my plants and i for some reason put the testing sticks from my multi meter into the soil, and i was shocked when i got a reading back on the meter, now when i touched the soil the volts vanished, till the next day when they seem to have come back, would this very low voltage be the microbes working away in the soil, while i was out i took my multi meter with me and tested some ground soil and found no voltage reading, but when i check the compost i have in pots that is not been earthed out to ground i found it contains a low amount of volts, is this the microbes at work.

a Brix meter I will have to break down and get to do this the right way, I suppose.

Originally Posted by DocBud

It's not so much the microbes as the minerals and ions created during the chemical breakdown of those minerals.

When we mix the limestone, SRF and gypsum, a chemical reaction takes place that basically forms a battery in the soil. Salts are also conductive (EC).

Too much voltage usually means a salt problem. Too little and the plants won't have enough energy to grow.

Here's what International Ag labs sells:,

 

[seagem]

Sorry guys they are a bit out of order.

 

[seagem]

Originally Posted by DocBud

As far as "best practice" goes, what does everyone think about starting a discussion thread, where we hash it all out and come up with a roadmap?

Ok lets lay the foundation guys.

 

[Doc Bud]

Grass Roots Hi Brix

Please credit me in the OP!

 

[donpaul.p]

hey, i was shocked to see my post about the electricity in the soil, guess i wasnt asking such a dumb question after all, so im no longer the boy at the back of the class room not listening, ive moved and im not sitting on the teachers lap sharing an apple,

another dumb question but hoping for a clever answer, at the end of the high brix post it mentions foliar feeding, what should i be feeding with, is their any solution that boosts the plants are is it just plain water that you are using for foliar feed, im only asking as i burned one of my plants by spraying with water when the lights where on, my bad, should of sprayed just before the lights went out or just when they was coming on, so i ended up burning a bud, its growing ok now, so does the plant benefit from a foliar feed and if so does this continue through into the flower stage as well, and if so what should i be feeding and how often and when is it best to foliar feed, before lights go off, or just after they have come on

 

[Doc Bud]

High Brix growing refers to a method that allows the plants to achieve their healthiest state. They have increased sugars, minerals, terpenes and everything else.

Plants with High Brix give off a different electromagnetic frequency which repels insects! The sugar in the leaves actually kills mites, and the plants can take much more abuse without ill effects.

The psychoactive properties of the resin "seem" different....but at present that's just very slim, anecdotal evidence. It will take quite a bit of time and research to determine what is different as far as psychoactive properties.

There are some things we do know for certain:

High Brix means greater weight per volume
less spoilage, longer shelf life
far better taste

What we're hoping to do here is figure out a "Best Practice" approach to growing High Brix MMJ.

I suggest the following broad categories:

1.)matching soil composition to container size, lighting intensity, strain.
2.)dealing with pests. High Brix literature claims that spraying an insecticide is an act of desperation. High Brix growers do not have insect pressure.
3.)Best amendments, foliar sprays, soil food


Everything needs to be verified with refractometer readings.


I also suggest that we tabulate our soil test results in an attempt to make achieving high Brix easier for those who wish to copy. This is all open source, as far as I'm concerned.

We want the healthiest, safest, highest quality produce possible. High Brix is the way to get it.

The question is, what methods result in the Highest Brix?

 

[Doc Bud]

hey, i was shocked to see my post about the electricity in the soil, guess i wasnt asking such a dumb question after all, so im no longer the boy at the back of the class room not listening, ive moved and im not sitting on the teachers lap sharing an apple,

another dumb question but hoping for a clever answer, at the end of the high brix post it mentions foliar feeding, what should i be feeding with, is their any solution that boosts the plants are is it just plain water that you are using for foliar feed, im only asking as i burned one of my plants by spraying with water when the lights where on, my bad, should of sprayed just before the lights went out or just when they was coming on, so i ended up burning a bud, its growing ok now, so does the plant benefit from a foliar feed and if so does this continue through into the flower stage as well, and if so what should i be feeding and how often and when is it best to foliar feed, before lights go off, or just after they have come on

From Highbrixgardens.com

Foliar Feed Regularly

Have you ever used an old-fashioned hand pump to draw out water from the ground? The first thing it needs is some water poured down the shaft followed by vigorous pumping on the handle. It only takes a small amount of water to “prime the pump.”

Foliar feeding is like priming the pump on a growing plant. A prerequisite prior to foliar feeding is to ensure adequate minerals and biology have been added to the soil. When this is coupled with regular nutrient drenches to keep the soil energy at its peak, the plant is now ready to be “primed,” via foliar feeding, for optimum production.

Lets take a closer look at what happens when a foliar spray is applied to plant leaves. A well-made foliar spray is a dilute nutrient solution. If properly constructed it will pas through the leaf surface and increase the photosynthetic capability of the plant. In other words it will allow the plant to take in more energy from the sun. The difficulty is in properly constructing the foliar spray. It is very important to fully understand what effects specific nutrients have on plants. The wrong foliar spray at the wrong time can create a tremendous yield decline. Here is a very important caution when foliar spraying: Either know what you are doing or work with a consultant who does.

When a foliar program is properly applied the mineral density within the plant is increased, as are the carbohydrates or plant sugars. This increase of plant sugars and minerals are sent to the roots of the plants, some of which are excreted out of the roots as plant exudates. This increase of plant root exudates, caused by the foliar spray, creates a ready food supply for the bacteria that live symbiotically on the plant roots. Bacteria respond to this increased food supply by making more nutrients in the soil available to the plant. These minerals are picked up by the roots and sent to the aerial part of the plant. This process explains how a foliar spray can increase brix readings.

In addition to increasing nutrient density, a foliar spray is a command to a plant’s physiology. A foliar spray can either push a plant toward vegetative production i.e. growth of leaves, stems, and stalk or it can push a plant toward reproduction i.e. promotion of blossoms, flowers, and fruit set.

Systematic foliar spraying will exhibit a cumulative affect of increasing yield along with mineral density and plant sugars. In the High Brix Garden program we emphasize a weekly foliar spray of either BrixBlaster or Qualify! beginning one month after transplanting or emergence. BrixBlaster is used for crops making reproductive growth such as tomatoes, peppers, and sweet corn. Qualify! is used on crops making vegetative growth such as lettuce, kale, and spinach. It can also be used on early growth of crops that will later need BrixBlaster.

The High Brix Garden Program also uses two other foliar sprays: Enthuse and ShowTime. Enthuse is used on a monthly basis or as needed for plant stress. It contains a broad-spectrum of trace minerals, bio stimulants, and single L-amino acids to help plants cope with stress. ShowTime is used once a month or as needed to enhance the visual appearance of plants and to repel noxious insects. This is a great product to use 1 day before you show your garden off to friends and family and you want it looking its best.
The Path to High Brix

In summary the Path to High Brix is really quite simple—just create the right environment for plants to express their full genetic potential. To do this we must have a vision and a roadmap as we do the following 3 steps:

Remineralize and Balance the Soil
Create and Maintain Soil Energy
Foliar Feed Regularly

They do not recommend Brixblaster anymore. They have some new products which I am using:

Amaze
PGR
Bloomit

These are damn strong products! I'm still learning how to use them.....but they are very powerful products that do way more than just spraying with compost tea, etc.

 

[seagem]

How do I do that??

 

[donpaul.p]

thanks for the back ground info, so its not a solution you could make yourself then,

 

[MsMe]

Excellent job taking the initiative Seagem!!!!
Reps to you...



I'll be following along even though it's not an area of expertise for me so I doubt I'll have much to contribute, but I'm sure I'm going to learn TONS!!!!!

 

[seagem]

Excellent job taking the initiative Seagem!!!!
Reps to you...



I'll be following along even though it's not an area of expertise for me so I doubt I'll have much to contribute, but I'm sure I'm going to learn TONS!!!!!

Thanks MsMe, I really did not do anything in this process as yet. I just contributed my ideas in a more orderly manner, so as not to affend.

 

[seagem]

Please credit me in the OP!

Doc not sure what u r asking Really I have no idea of what OP means >> please spell it out for me. I'm not a blonde but may be subject to a few Blonde moments.

I'll do it and if i cant then i'll ask 420 to fix it with pleasure. I dont want the credit for this, I believe that a few concerned people believe they could be part of a new process from old means. Just trying to help out in this discussion. I will be ordering my kit come the first of the month I hope.

 

[seagem]

Double post**Deleted**

 

[Doc Bud]

How do I do that??

You order those foliar sprays online. I talk about using them on my journal, and hope to get more detailed info when the soil report comes back. I'll make sure to keep everyone up to speed.

Right now I'm using 1 tsp of Amaze per 40 oz. of water. I'm not using PGR once flowering gets under way, but I use it in veg. The PGR is crazy stuff. I sprayed a plant last cycle using 2 tsp per 15 oz and the plant twisted up, curled up and stretched 6 inches overnight.

Like it says on the website: "The wrong foliar spray at the wrong time can create a tremendous yield decline. Here is a very important caution when foliar spraying: Either know what you are doing or work with a consultant who does."

thanks for the back ground info, so its not a solution you could make yourself then,

No....not these. Amaze is a miracle of chemistry,

"AMAZE is a revolutionary foliar spray designed to feed the plant mineral nutrition through the leaves. It is revolutionary because it combines calcium with phosphorous in the phosphate form. This allows for excellent leaf penetration as well as calcium mobility within the plant. No other calcium foliar spray has such an effective mode of action. Since much of the produce quality hinges on calcium content, a systemic foliar program using AMAZE can pay big dividends as shown in the case studies with Duane Bowman which are included in this folder."

You can't make these sprays, but you can buy them pretty cheap. You can also use compost tea and stuff....it will help for sure....but not like Amaze, Bloomit and PGR.

 

[Doc Bud]

Doc not sure what u r asking Really I have no idea of what OP means >> please spell it out for me. I'm not a blonde but may be subject to a few Blonde moments.

I'll do it and if i cant then i'll ask 420 to fix it with pleasure. I dont want the credit for this, I believe that a few concerned people believe they could be part of a new process from old means. Just trying to help out in this discussion. I will be ordering my kit come the first of the month I hope.

OP=Original Post.

You quoted a post I made yesterday, I think. I'm just wanting my name on my words....'das all!

 

[BudTester420]

OP=Original Post.

You quoted a post I made yesterday, I think. I'm just wanting my name on my words....'das all!

Shit bro, you deserve it. The greatest part is AG labs is 2 hours away from me, I wonder if I could get a walk through.

 

[seagem]

High Brix growing refers to a method that allows the plants to achieve their healthiest state. They have increased sugars, minerals, terpenes and everything else.

Plants with High Brix give off a different electromagnetic frequency which repels insects! The sugar in the leaves actually kills mites, and the plants can take much more abuse without ill effects.

The psychoactive properties of the resin "seem" different....but at present that's just very slim, anecdotal evidence. It will take quite a bit of time and research to determine what is different as far as psychoactive properties.

There are some things we do know for certain:

High Brix means greater weight per volume
less spoilage, longer shelf life
far better taste

What we're hoping to do here is figure out a "Best Practice" approach to growing High Brix MMJ.

I suggest the following broad categories:

1.)matching soil composition to container size, lighting intensity, strain.
2.)dealing with pests. High Brix literature claims that spraying an insecticide is an act of desperation. High Brix growers do not have insect pressure.
3.)Best amendments, foliar sprays, soil food


Everything needs to be verified with refractometer readings.


I also suggest that we tabulate our soil test results in an attempt to make achieving high Brix easier for those who wish to copy. This is all open source, as far as I'm concerned.

We want the healthiest, safest, highest quality produce possible. High Brix is the way to get it.

The question is, what methods result in the Highest Brix?

Doc, I'd like to ad a few categories --- Seeds, Thc & CBC's, etc... ( not that we will know the answer's at this point but we can discuss them when we travel on to the progression).

Doc I credited the thread title and the post. I will have to get 420 to change the Thread title, maybe they will see the interest and make it a sticky??

 

[Doc Bud]

OK, I'm going to make this post a Current Best Practice post.

We'll update it as often as we can, especially when some of the other high brix grows begin to finish and we get more data. We've got several different grows out there with different containers and ferts.

This list is a work in progress! It isn't complete and will take some time to get there, but when people enter a thread and say, "Can you please re-organize and condense everything you're doing so I can make a shopping list and have step by step directions for my grow so I don't have to read?" We can point them to this post, which I'll edit per consensus of the Brix'ers.

Current Best practice:

1.)Containers. Larger seems better at present, but we need more data.

Best practice: pending

2.)Soil. Quality potting soil with 40% Humus and and proper ratio's of foundational minerals.

I'll be getting a soil report on an unamended commercial potting soil very soon, and then I'll do Fox Farms Ocean Forest after that, so we'll have a path from bag to brix. Stay tuned.

Best Practice: 6-5-3 ratio of the following: Limestone, Soft Rock Phosphate, Gypsum. We must also add trace minerals which can be from Azomite, Montromorillianite or other qualtiy source of micronutrients including products like Planters II trace minerals, etc.

3.)Soil energy. Do not confuse this with plant food. Although plant foods increase soil energy, we're not feeding the plant, but the soil!

Several products are working:

Best Practice:
Biosol Forte
Hydrolyzed Fish
Kelp powder

Soon to be tested: OC+, Rock n Chicken 2-4-2 (composted chicken manure and soft rock phosphate) this looks very promising.

Warning: traditional organics like Bat Guano contain too much phosphorus and will hurt yield and lower brix!

4.)Foliar sprays. Compost teas, both homemade and store bought, especially from the T and J enterprises High Brix Kit, and commercial sprays Amaze, PGR, Bloomit. We're still collecting data with Amaze....but that's what the pro's are using so it should work very well.

Stay tuned, the foliar spraying is the difference between excellent and OMG/WTF that's-the-best-weed-ever.

Best Practice:
Amaze: 1tsp per 40oz RO. Stop midway through bloom.
PGR: 1 tsp per 40oz RO. Should be combined with Amaze. Stop when pistils appear.
Bloomit: 1 tsp per 40oz RO. Use in mid bloom. Do not use on vegetating plants!

5.)Pest control

I haven't sprayed for mites in over a year and I have mites. If brix is up, pests aren't a problem.....except the damn fungus gnats! If the soil energy gets too high and the minerals get used up (large containers help mitigate this) the gnats can be irritating. However, they don't seem to harm the plants.

Sticky traps will do the trick. I have not found a need for any insecticides or pesticides yet......

Best practice: sticky traps, Azamax/Azatrol, Compost tea.

There's plenty more. We'll discuss all this stuff and watch what happens in eachother's gardens as we experiment!

Chime in Brix'ers!

 

[seagem]

I fixed it on the heading of the 1st post, and asked to give you credit on the topic post, I can't fix it there they will have to take care of that. I also asked for a sticky and an emmiecon, any idea's on that? We cant use the Nute emmie, maybe throwing some rocks...lol