Soil - Tips and Techniques

[kiwihigh]

Hi 420 members!
I Have been thinking a lot about Soil types and techniques used for growing our beloved herb, and as the environment in which anything grows dictates half of outcome (genetics being the other half).
It makes sense as almost half of the plants environment is underground that proper soil is as important as the rest of the grow environment.

I was wondering about everyone's personal preferences and soil recipes, to see what others have found works best for them. So i decided to try get a discussion going on here

I like Organic soils and fertilizers as they impact the natural flavor of your herb less IMO, I'm also a real hippy and environmentalist that is most likely why they appeal to me.

what i have found in the past is well aerated and easily drain-able mixes promote faster growth although watering is more frequent but I'm always peeping in my room so its not any issue.

Usually i would dump a bag of Organic Potting mix in a pot then transplant and water but i started trying a few different soil additives and worked on a mix.

I would use organic potting mix and add:
blood and bone mix (Nutrients)
worm castings (improved aeration + drainage, Nutrients)
Epsom salt (for magnesium)
Dolomite/ Lime (P.h balance)
Organic compost (aeration + nutrients)

this concoction meant little fertilizing although extra N was needed during veg and after half way through flower extra feeding was required.

I have always used organic liquid fertilizers, however I'm staring to research how make my own DIY organic fertilizers out of Seed meal, lime/ dolomite, guano, grass clippings etc. So any experience with DIY nutrients is very welcome.

 

[kiwihigh]

Found this also, Sourced from the Marijuana Cultivation Bible Author unknown:


Organic Nutrient List

This is a list of Organic nutrients obtained from the Marijuana Cultivation Bible.

Enjoy.

Organic Nutrient Chart

Manures

Rabbit manure N= 2.4 P= 1.4 K= 0.6
comments- Most concentrated of animal manures in fresh form.

Cow manure (dairy) N= 0.6 P= 0.2 K= 0.5
comments- Often contains weed seeds, should be hot composted.

Steer manure N= 0.7 P= 0.3 K= 0.4
comments- Often contains weed seeds, should be hot composted if fresh.

Chicken manure N= 1.1 P= 0.8 K= 0.5
comments- Fast acting, breaks down quickest of all manures. Use carefully, may burn. Also, stinks like hell - composting definitely recommended.

Horse manure N= 0.7 P= 0.3 K= 0.6
comments- Medium breakdown time.

Duck manure N= 0.6 P= 1.4 K= 0.5

Sheep manure N= 0.7 P= 0.3 K= 0.9

Worm castings N= 0.5 P= 0.5 K= 0.3
comments- 50% organic material plus 11 trace minerals. Great for seedlings, will not burn. Is a form of compost, so doesn't need composting.

Desert Bat Guano N= 8 P= 4 K= 1
comments- Also contains trace elements. Fast-acting, mix in soil or as tea (1 C guano to 5 gal. water).

Cave Bat Guano N= 3 P= 10 K= 1

Fossilized Seabird Guano N= 1 P= 10 K= 1
comments- Slow release over 3 to 12 weeks, best used as an addition to potting mix.

Peruvian Seabird Guano (pelletized) N= 12 P= 12 K= 2.5
comments- Legendary fertilizer of the Incas. Use in soil as a long lasting fertilizer, or make into tea (1 tsp pellets to 1 gallon water).

Note: it is recommended to first compost any fresh manure before you use it for 2 reasons:

1. to lessen the chance of harmful pathogens.
2. to break down the manure to make it more usable to the plant (and reduce the smell!)

The rates for pig or human manure are not listed because of the high rate of harmful pathogens they contain.

************************************************** **********

Organic Meals

Blood Meal N= 11 P= 0 K= 0
comments- Highest N of all organic sources, very fast acting if made into tea.

Bone Meal (steamed) N= 1 P= 11 K= 0
comments- Releases nutrients slowly. Caution: European farmers should not use because of the risk of spreading Mad Cow Disease; growers elsewhere may face the same issue.

Cottonseed Meal N= 6 P= 2.5 K= 1.5
comments- If farming organically, check the source. May be heavily treated with pesticides.

Fish Scrap N= 5 P= 3 K= 3
comments- Use in compost or work in soil several months before using. Usually slightly alkaline.

Fish Emulsion N= 4 P= 1 K= 1
comments- Also adds 5% sulfur. Good N source for seedlings, won't burn.

Kelp Meal N= 1 P= 0.5 K= 2.5
comments- Provides 60 trace elements, plus growth-promoting hormones and enzymes.

Soybean Meal N= 7 P= 0.5 K= 2.5
comments- None

Coffee Grounds N= 2 P= 0.3 K= 0.2
comments- Highly acidic, best for use in alkaline soils.

************************************************** **********

Minerals

Greensand N= 0 P= 1.5 K= 7
comments- Mined from old ocean deposits; used as soil conditioner; it holds water and is high in iron, magnesium, and silica - 32 trace minerals in all.

Eggshells N= 1.2 P= 0.4 K= 0.1
comments- Contais calcium plus trace minerals. Dry first, then grind to powder.

Limestone (dolomitic) N= 0 P= 0 K= 0
comments- Raises pH, 51% calcium and 40% magnesium.

Limestone (calcitic) N= 0 P= 0 K= 0
comments- Raises pH, 65-80% calcium, 3-15% magnesium.

Crustacean Shells N= 4.6 P= 3.52 K= 0
comments- Contain large amounts of lime. Should be ground as finely as possible for best results.

Wood Ashes N= 0 P= 1.5 K= 7
comments- Very fast acting and highly alkaline (usually used to raise pH). Contains many micronutrients.

Crushed Granite N= 0 P= 0 K= 5
comments- Contains 67% silicas and 19 trace minerals. Slow release over a long period of time.

Rock Phosphate N= 0 P= 3 K= 0
comments- Contains 11 trace minerals. Slow release over a long period of time.

Epsom Salts N= 0 P= 0 K= 0
comments- Provides Mg and acts as a balancer.

************************************************** **********

Soil Amendments and Organic Material

Cornstalks N= 0.75 P= 0.4 K= 0.9
comments- Break down slowly; excellent soil conditioner. Should be shredded.

Oak Leaves N= 0.8 P= 0.35 K= 0.15
comments- Break down slowly, shred for best results. Good soil conditioner.

Feathers N= 15 P= 0 K= 0
comments- Chop or shred finely for best results.

Hair N= 14 P= 0 K= 0
comments- Good soil conditioner, oils break down slowly. Chop or shred finely for best results.

Sources include: Rodale Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, The Deluxe Marijuana Growers Guide (Frank and Rosenthal)

************************************************** **********

Organic Fertilizers - Composition

Organic soil composition involves creating a soil medium that has a balanced amount of nutrients - NPK as well as trace elements and minerals - plus organic material that provides food for not only the plant, but also the countless soil microorganisms, fungi, worms, and bacteria that comprise a healthy soil. This soil life breaks down the raw materials of the fertilizers you add so the plants can absorb them, and also plays a part in as-yet undefined processes that aid plant growth and improve soil health.

Below are various "recipes" for both organic fertilizers and organic soil mixes.

Mix and match formulas

Pick one source from each category. The results will vary in composition from 1-2-1 to 4-6-3, but any mixture will provide a balanced supply of nutrients that will be steadily available to plants and encourage soil microorganisms.

Nitrogen

* 2 parts blood meal
* 3 parts fish meal

Phosporous

* 3 parts bone meal
* 6 parts rock phosphate or colloidal phosphate

Potassium

* 1 part kelp meal
* 6 parts greensand

source: Rodale Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening

More Organic Fertilizer Mixes

2 - 3.5 - 2.5

* 1 part bone meal
* 3 parts alfalfa hay
* 2 parts greensand

2 - 4 - 2

* 4 parts coffee grounds
* 1 part bone meal
* 1 part wood ashes

2 - 4 - 2

* 1 part leather dust
* 1 part bone meal
* 3 parts granite dust

2 - 8 - 2

* 3 parts greensand
* 2 parts seaweed
* 1 part dried blood
* 2 parts phosphate rock

2 - 13 - 2.5

* 1 part cottonseed meal
* 2 parts phosphate rock
* 2 parts seaweed

3.5 - 5.5 - 3.5

* 2 parts cottonseed meal
* 1 part colloidal phosphate
* 2 parts granite dust

2.5 - 6 - 5

* 1 part dried blood
* 1 part phosphate rock
* 4 parts wood ashes

0 - 5 - 4

* 1 part phosphate rock
* 3 parts greensand
* 2 parts wood ashes

3 - 6 - 3

* 1 part leather dust
* 1 part phosphate rock
* 3 parts seaweed

3 - 7 - 5

* 1 part dried blood
* 1 part phosphate rock
* 3 parts wood ashes

3 - 8 - 5

* 1 part leather dust
* 1 part phosphate rock
* 1 part fish scrap
* 4 parts wood ashes

2.5 - 2.5 - 4

* 3 parts granite dust
* 1 part dried blood
* 1 part bone meal
* 5 parts seaweed

4 - 5 - 4

* 2 parts dried blood
* 1 part phosphate rock
* 4 parts wood ashes

6 - 8 - 3

* 2 parts fish scrap
* 2 parts dried blood
* 1 part cottonseed meal
* 1 part wood ashes
* 1 part phosphate rock
* 1 part granite dust


************************************************** **********

Herbal Tea Plant Food

* 1 t Comfrey leaves
* 1 t Alfalfa leaves
* 1 t Nettle leaves
* 1 Qt boiling water

Steep for 10 min. and let cool until luke warm. Drain the leaves out and add the luke warm tea to your plants to keep them healthy and vibrant!

The reason for adding slightly warm tea (or water) to your plants is that they will be able to absorb the needed nutrients more easily by keeping the root pores open verses cold tea (or water) will have a tendency to restrict the pores, meaning a much slower process of absorption.

Comfrey is called knitbone or healing herb. It is high in calcium, potassium and phosphorus, and also rich in vitamins A and C. The nutrients present in comfrey actually assist in the healing process since it contains allantoin.
Alfalfa is one of the most powerful nitrogen - fixers of all the legumes. It is strong in iron and is a good source of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and trace minerals.
Nettles are helpful to stimulate fermentation in compost or manure piles and this helps to break down other organic materials in your planting soil. The plant is said to contail carbonic acid and ammonia which may be the fermentation factor. Nettles are rich in iron and have as much protein as cottonseed meal.

amacian Bat Guano
N-P-K 1-10-0

Earthworm Castings
1-0-0 have 1% calcium and 0.2% iron

 

[JBUptown]

Hello KiwiHigh,

Nice thread starter for discussion. Unfortunately I'm not an Organic Soil person so I can't contribute to you subject discussion, but hopefully other organic enthusiasts will join in and comment. I guess I'm lazy and just prefer to buy a bag of soil, and amend it as needed for the properties I desire. I've had so much success with Hydro that I'm not sure if I'll ever grow in soil again, but I do appreciate your dedication to organic soil development. I do have lots of other vegetables and other plants growing in soil, but they are all in store bought commercial not organic stuff. Best of luck in your grows and organic discussion!

JB

 

[Onamatopeia]

It is a complicated subject, with many variables. Personal experiments will tend to have several other contemporaneous variables. There is really no way to show that any one element, in any one concentration, is better than any other configurations.

So my thought is I am just going to buy a bag of soil and worry about something else!

 

[Conradino23]

Hmmm that would be easy for me to say I've been a LOS grower for 13 yrs and only recently started growing in High Brix soil, and I have to say this is the way to go

 

[Outragedpluto]

I grow True Living Organic style. When it comes down to the basics, all of your organic methods base around the concept of super soils and micro life. A great start in my opinion is get the book Teaming with Microbes by Jeff Lowenfels, Wayne Lewis. This will give you the basic but complex understanding of soil life and how to care for all forms of life. Then depending how you want to go, the book True Living Organics by The Rev. Awesome book with lots of information, and if you want visual proof of its ability to grow awesome plants, check out my latest journal. I have spent a lot of time researching and take special care of my plants. I have a special love for growing that my plants absorb and flourish.

Good luck in your research and read read read my friend. Knowledge is POWER!!!!!!

 

[kiwihigh]

Thanks Outragedpluto! ill definitely check that book out,

Of course with organic soil, and DIY soil mixes there are an incredible number of different variations, I'm not trying show that any one element, in any one concentration, is better than any other configurations just what works for you, your environment and your crop.

 

[Soiltest]

As quantity of available nutrients in the soil determines the amount of fertilizer that is recommended in. Soil tests also include soil pH, humic matter in the soil. creating a Soil Mix for Blueberries will help me make some more better. Nice Post.

Soil testing is very important process by which elements like phosphorus, potassium, sodium, sulphur, manganese, calcium, magnesium, copper and zinc are chemically removed from the soil, Using Grid Soil Sampling Manure Application we also can make soil more fertile.

 

[Conradino23]

Second that, if you have money and possibility to do the test go for it! Testing is also important in High Brix grows.