1st Grow - LA Con - 9/19 - Sour Diesel & Afgahni - 9/29

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st grow- LA Con(9/19) / Sour Diesel & Afgahni(9/29)-

Yes. Leaf tips yellow or darken and curl down slightly as nute burn sets in (in my experience).

Most of those plants look great and don't need anything more in veg. The one thru the screen looks a tad yellow in the new leaves. New leaves should be lighter green but not yellow. She doesn't need more Nitrogen or she would be yellowing from the bottom, stealing from the older leaves to support chlorophyll formation in the new leaves. This could be an iron shortage, but it's not freak-out time.

First, double-check pH. Maybe run a few gallons of plain pH'ed water thru instead of feeding next time to adjust the medium and then if you have any micronutrient at hand I would use it. Otherwise, just keep feeding her. Maybe pH her food/water to around 6.2 or so for a feed or two and see if she greens up. Iron is better absorbed at the lower pH.



To do a proper flush, run 2-3 times the volume of the pot in water through it, preferrably ph'ed. You can add FoxFarm's Sledgehammer (I think that's it) or you could use Clearex instead, but you don't have to have either. If a veg plant needs more N, give it stronger veg food. Or you could go with straight-up feather tea or maybe some liquid guano.

Like I said though, overall they look healthy. You are doing fine. I'll pull up a chair and watch.

First i want to say thank you very very much for the help. Ive been trying to stay doing a good job with the plants they are really smelly and have been doing good so far. ill hit you with some question i come across but enjoy the show. im going to add some more and more pics as i go!

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

here are some more updated pictures, the tops of a few of my plants started turning yellow eeeeeeeekkkkkkkkk!!! i did a flush and the next few days they started to turn. Im just gonna beef up the nutes and see what happens. because of this im leaving my planst in veg for a little bit longer than expected but its all good.

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st grow- LA Con(9/19) / Sour Diesel & Afgahni(9/29)-

hey do you know how to flush a plant. im about a week or two from starting to flower and i havent flushed any of my plants yet. also if i see for instance that a plant need more "N", via the yellowing of the leafs how do i get that plant more N. do i just feed it more? any information will be great thanks!

okay so i have a question about a week ago i was going to change my plants from veg to flower there are getting really big and im actually running outta space. but i flushed out my planst by putting 2-3 times the amount of h2o in thm and let them sit for a about 3 days or so and they started turning yellow. i gave them one feed so far and it doesnt seem to get worse but im not liking this yellow stuff. what should i do???im a little bit worries. they have started at the tops of the plants and worked there way down. please can you take a look at the pictures itook this morning and see what i can do?

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

11-13-11

can someone please help me i flushed my plants about a week ago and the next couple days they started to do this. so far ive giving them one feed of just the grow big 6-4-4 to try and get more N to the plants so they can go back to green. should i be tripping out? idk but im stressing im ready to flower but idk if i should flower while there looking like this.

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st grow- LA Con(9/19) / Sour Diesel & Afgahni(9/29)-

Yes. Leaf tips yellow or darken and curl down slightly as nute burn sets in (in my experience).

Most of those plants look great and don't need anything more in veg. The one thru the screen looks a tad yellow in the new leaves. New leaves should be lighter green but not yellow. She doesn't need more Nitrogen or she would be yellowing from the bottom, stealing from the older leaves to support chlorophyll formation in the new leaves. This could be an iron shortage, but it's not freak-out time.

First, double-check pH. Maybe run a few gallons of plain pH'ed water thru instead of feeding next time to adjust the medium and then if you have any micronutrient at hand I would use it. Otherwise, just keep feeding her. Maybe pH her food/water to around 6.2 or so for a feed or two and see if she greens up. Iron is better absorbed at the lower pH.



To do a proper flush, run 2-3 times the volume of the pot in water through it, preferrably ph'ed. You can add FoxFarm's Sledgehammer (I think that's it) or you could use Clearex instead, but you don't have to have either. If a veg plant needs more N, give it stronger veg food. Or you could go with straight-up feather tea or maybe some liquid guano.

Like I said though, overall they look healthy. You are doing fine. I'll pull up a chair and watch.

can you help me to turn my plants back yellow?? im stressing this all happened with in a week.

 

[Aberration]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

OK, I'm pretty fried atm, but I'm going to try to help... take it with salt.

First I recommend getting the book Marijuana Garden Saver: Handbook for Healthy Plants. It's by J.C. Stitch, edited by Ed Rosenthal and only costs $17.95 at whatever big book store you have nearby. I got mine at Barnes and Noble I think. This book lays out the nutrients and basic conditions needed and more importantly, tells you how to diagnose all the issues you are likely to run across WITH PICTURES. It's great.

Now don't get me wrong - there are online resources that might do you just as well for free, and if you can, use them. However, most people either can't or prefer not to take a computer into the grow room. I take the book in there with me and compare it directly to what I see. This book is a great help. Eventually, you will find you rarely use it. And that's great, but until then it is worth every cent.

OK. next, please be careful of your reactions to problems with the plants. It is very easy to over-react, over-water, and just plain over-love these plants. In hydro you have to be johnny on the spot with your maintenance, but you can change everything at a whim. In a soil or soil-less like we use, everything is less immediate. They will do OK for longer in poor conditions, but it takes longer for the effects of a correction to really show. The medium slows everything you do. Expect a week to pass before you see a change in a lot of cases. My point is that if you try to correct again before that previous correction has really had a chance you can really throw the whole system out of whack. OK that sounds a little preachy there - sorry - but I think it is important, and you seem pretty worried.

So looking through the aforesaid book, I find four candidates for deficiency:

The first is N (nitrogen). N is the usual culprit when you see yellowing because it's a huge component of the chlorophyll that makes the plant green. If you don't have enough Nitrogen, leaves will yellow. We can rule that one out though because N is very mobile. By mobile I mean that the plant can deconstruct something at point A, freeing the components to be transported and then used to build something at point B. Because N is very mobile, the plant will steal what it needs from lower, older, more shaded leaves to continue construction of the green in new growth. It makes a smart move and eliminates less useful growth in favor of the new. So when a plant has an N deficiency, the yellowing starts down low. Yours is at top, wrong deficiency.

Second is Fe (iron). With an iron deficiency the new growth goes yellow and the yellow will be mostly in the space between the veins. The veins will stay green for a long time still. Fe is needed to make chlorophyll - it is a catalyst. That means that it is needed to make a reaction happen, but it isn't incorporated into the solution. To put it another way, it's like tools when you are building a machine. You need the tools to do the job, but they aren't a part of the machine and they can be used again on another. Fe is the same with building chlorophyll. But Fe is not really mobile. Once supplied to new growth, it pretty much stays there. The expansion in a leaf involves a lot of expansion of the webbing between veins, so the Fe there can be spread out and at some point becomes too thin. Then there isn't enough to keep up with the demand for chlorophyll in the webbing and it yellows. I can't see close enough to tell if this is what you see.

Fe shortages are usually a pH problem. I think most nutrient shortages are, honestly. Most modern feeding systems provide everything you would need. I use this chart which gives a pH range of absorption for each nutrient component. In this chart the plant needs low 6s on the pH just to get a decent absorption of Fe going:

Rusty water would be an OK way to get some Fe in there, but I think a good micro-nutrient supplement would be better. I use TM-7 from BioAg, sold at my local shop. It proves the Fe along with a lot of other micronutes: B (boron), S (sulfur), Co (cobalt), Cu (copper), Mn (manganese), Mo (molybdenum), and Zn (zinc). Good stuff. Myself, I would give a feed at a pH of 6.0-6.1 and add some TM-7 to the feed.

The next possibility is Mg (magnesium), but like N magnesium is mobile, so it starts low, not on the newest growth.

The last is S (sulfur). Young leaves first. Leaves become brittle and narrow. Overall stunting of growth. Thinner stems that may become woody. This is less likely a culprit than the Fe, but the fix is the same - get more S in there and make sure the pH is right for S. This one is more tolerant of pH variations.

I think a lot of issues are pH-related, as said. Try to feed closely to your target pH when you see issues; often that alone will fix them up. Try not to correct pH with a flush unless you see deformation or twisting of the leaves. It's less shock if you can just subtly persuade the pH back where it needs to go by feeding or watering it at exactly the pH you want it to have. Make sure you give enough liquid to cause some to drain out the bottom (but watch for those ones that just drain straight through - they usually have open channels, wasting the water. IMO that's why you should cultivate the top soil layer a little now and then - it fills those holes and then gets water to the whole root-ball). The pH will swing back usually without shocking the roots too badly.

Calibrate your pH meter if you haven't in a while.

I don't remember if you did this or not, but always feed immediately after a flush (unless it is the flush right before harvest). A flush tends to remove all the nutes, so you need to replace them or the plant will starve. Of course right before harvest starving the plant is kinda the point, so that's fine, but not before then.

Once again, I'm an amateur, I may be wrong, and I'm sure someone will (please) correct me where i miss the mark. But that's my 2¢

 

[Dirt Farmer]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

Aberration nailed it, also make sure you check out the problem solver here Problems, Pests & Disease Control - 420 Magazine

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

OK, I'm pretty fried atm, but I'm going to try to help... take it with salt.

First I recommend getting the book Marijuana Garden Saver: Handbook for Healthy Plants. It's by J.C. Stitch, edited by Ed Rosenthal and only costs $17.95 at whatever big book store you have nearby. I got mine at Barnes and Noble I think. This book lays out the nutrients and basic conditions needed and more importantly, tells you how to diagnose all the issues you are likely to run across WITH PICTURES. It's great.

Now don't get me wrong - there are online resources that might do you just as well for free, and if you can, use them. However, most people either can't or prefer not to take a computer into the grow room. I take the book in there with me and compare it directly to what I see. This book is a great help. Eventually, you will find you rarely use it. And that's great, but until then it is worth every cent.

OK. next, please be careful of your reactions to problems with the plants. It is very easy to over-react, over-water, and just plain over-love these plants. In hydro you have to be johnny on the spot with your maintenance, but you can change everything at a whim. In a soil or soil-less like we use, everything is less immediate. They will do OK for longer in poor conditions, but it takes longer for the effects of a correction to really show. The medium slows everything you do. Expect a week to pass before you see a change in a lot of cases. My point is that if you try to correct again before that previous correction has really had a chance you can really throw the whole system out of whack. OK that sounds a little preachy there - sorry - but I think it is important, and you seem pretty worried.

So looking through the aforesaid book, I find four candidates for deficiency:

The first is N (nitrogen). N is the usual culprit when you see yellowing because it's a huge component of the chlorophyll that makes the plant green. If you don't have enough Nitrogen, leaves will yellow. We can rule that one out though because N is very mobile. By mobile I mean that the plant can deconstruct something at point A, freeing the components to be transported and then used to build something at point B. Because N is very mobile, the plant will steal what it needs from lower, older, more shaded leaves to continue construction of the green in new growth. It makes a smart move and eliminates less useful growth in favor of the new. So when a plant has an N deficiency, the yellowing starts down low. Yours is at top, wrong deficiency.

Second is Fe (iron). With an iron deficiency the new growth goes yellow and the yellow will be mostly in the space between the veins. The veins will stay green for a long time still. Fe is needed to make chlorophyll - it is a catalyst. That means that it is needed to make a reaction happen, but it isn't incorporated into the solution. To put it another way, it's like tools when you are building a machine. You need the tools to do the job, but they aren't a part of the machine and they can be used again on another. Fe is the same with building chlorophyll. But Fe is not really mobile. Once supplied to new growth, it pretty much stays there. The expansion in a leaf involves a lot of expansion of the webbing between veins, so the Fe there can be spread out and at some point becomes too thin. Then there isn't enough to keep up with the demand for chlorophyll in the webbing and it yellows. I can't see close enough to tell if this is what you see.

Fe shortages are usually a pH problem. I think most nutrient shortages are, honestly. Most modern feeding systems provide everything you would need. I use this chart which gives a pH range of absorption for each nutrient component. In this chart the plant needs low 6s on the pH just to get a decent absorption of Fe going:

Rusty water would be an OK way to get some Fe in there, but I think a good micro-nutrient supplement would be better. I use TM-7 from BioAg, sold at my local shop. It proves the Fe along with a lot of other micronutes: B (boron), S (sulfur), Co (cobalt), Cu (copper), Mn (manganese), Mo (molybdenum), and Zn (zinc). Good stuff. Myself, I would give a feed at a pH of 6.0-6.1 and add some TM-7 to the feed.

The next possibility is Mg (magnesium), but like N magnesium is mobile, so it starts low, not on the newest growth.

The last is S (sulfur). Young leaves first. Leaves become brittle and narrow. Overall stunting of growth. Thinner stems that may become woody. This is less likely a culprit than the Fe, but the fix is the same - get more S in there and make sure the pH is right for S. This one is more tolerant of pH variations.

I think a lot of issues are pH-related, as said. Try to feed closely to your target pH when you see issues; often that alone will fix them up. Try not to correct pH with a flush unless you see deformation or twisting of the leaves. It's less shock if you can just subtly persuade the pH back where it needs to go by feeding or watering it at exactly the pH you want it to have. Make sure you give enough liquid to cause some to drain out the bottom (but watch for those ones that just drain straight through - they usually have open channels, wasting the water. IMO that's why you should cultivate the top soil layer a little now and then - it fills those holes and then gets water to the whole root-ball). The pH will swing back usually without shocking the roots too badly.

Calibrate your pH meter if you haven't in a while.

I don't remember if you did this or not, but always feed immediately after a flush (unless it is the flush right before harvest). A flush tends to remove all the nutes, so you need to replace them or the plant will starve. Of course right before harvest starving the plant is kinda the point, so that's fine, but not before then.

Once again, I'm an amateur, I may be wrong, and I'm sure someone will (please) correct me where i miss the mark. But that's my 2¢

man brotha thanks alot for the words of advice/knowledge youu just laced me with. What happened i assumed was i flushed my planst and then i never feed them until about 3 days later. im new to the game but once i did feed them they turned right back. matter a fact they looked even better!! ill post some pictures shortly...but thaanks brotha again!!

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

Aberration nailed it, also make sure you check out the problem solver here Problems, Pests & Disease Control - 420 Magazine

okay perfect man ill check that out for sure.. im pretty good with leaving pictures and im gonna post some right now so you guys can see the fruits or your advice. thanks again brotha.

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

okay everyone finally the times has come for the flowering to start. my plants couldnt have looked so good lately. i had all of them packed in my room which isnt to big but that i decided to take two of the smallest plants and put them outside and just let the natural way of things happen to them. Im starting to understand alot and always open to advice. please please please leave me feed back im going to try and post a pic for every day each week. day 1,2,3 etc.. all in one posting. so today im gonna post the pics of the first day then next week on thrusday ill post the next days. im excited and ready to take a smoking break clear my lungs thatll way ill have room for my own tree... i never have to buy tree again... planning on new seed next week! lets GO!!!

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

Day 1 of flowering...

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

i have been learning with the plants there very similar to us. they get there energy and then use it at night to grow. they get stress like we do they get big the more u feed like we do, they have problems and once fixed right back together like we do. if u learn to listen to ur plants u will have some good stuff trust me. and P.S. 1 tsp per/gal of molasses is definitely a difference maker!!

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

OKAY AS promised im going to post weekly pictures. the first week of flowering has been good. i havent had major problems really just been letting the plants do there thang!

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

Week 1 photos:
day 2

day 5

LAcon-day5

day 6

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

what do yall think. let me know!! im going to put up a list of things ive learned. one thing about me is im a silent observer so i notice a lot usually.

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

What I've learned:
1.Always use a good source of water. ive filtered every feed ived had with the filter i keep in the frige and ive been able to notice a difference in the quality of my buds for sure. i think that its safe to say that there is a dramatic learning curve in which ive been able to adapt too and understand relatively quickly.

2. it think its good to introduce the plants to the sun light during the good hours when able so plants can get more spectrums and stretch out. it get cramped sometimes in the box.

3. Always feed after a flush.

4. Good to rotate the plant every day. and spray them w/water and sometimes a H20 + molasses mix(low low low doce)

5. Molasses with every feed for the rest of my life! do it and u will see no more than tsbp- 1.5/per gal

6.listen when they talk and soil u have to wait.

7. do feed too much, build up each time. and force them to reach. once u put a screen on they will strat to grow different for sure its kinda strange.

8.i herd when you think there done push another week. so thats what im gonna do this time imma push one more week before harvest. so the plant will get flushes like a motha then let them dry on out all week.

9. As long as they look good be good. Dont fix it if its not broke!

10. Heathy food = healthy weed, what u put in * genes is what you get out!

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

okay so far so good i can feel the stickiness of buds and there coming in nice. ive seen a few small bugs but for most part its all good. im gonna introduce lady bugs to crop to keep plants pesticide free! enjoy theses week 2 and 3 flowering pics.

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

week 2 and 3 of flowering

tell me what yall think!!

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

okay so far we are heading into week 6 which starts tomorrow (thrusday 12-22-11) no problems so far with my major plants, out door plants look pretty good as well not growing as good as indoor but there growing. plants smell real real sweet. im assuming its due to molasses. here are some week 3-4 pictures.

 

[spnrcky]

Re: 1st Grow - LA Con (9/19) - Sour Diesel & Afgahni (9/29)

week 3- 4 1/2 pics

LA CON!!!!

SOUR D!!!