I have it 46 inces away from the seedlings. I'm not sure what the recommended is at this point. Thanks for your help.Cool. I'm willing to bet that it's rated at 600w equivalent and is actually somewhere in the region of 250w drawn at the wall. This is called your true wattage. We won't worry about any of that just yet but that is a powerful light for a seedling so I would certainly hang it a bit higher than recommended for the first few days
Wow, the dr i called wanted 250 plus 100 for the state...
Its still a pitty you got to pay for a weed that the government wants to destroy!?
Thats heavy stuff right their.
Drop it daily. Slowly the plant will get used to it. If she is tall and skinny drop it! (The light that is). You want it short and squat!
Thanks, this helps alot. I just want my first grow to be successful and I'm sure I'm worrying too much. I have a friend that used to grow under her porch when she lived in LA with a regular light and dirt out of the yard and they grew just fine. I'm going to just to to relax and let mother nature take it's course. Thanks again for the excellent advise. I will definitely use it.I take it you have one of those 3 in 1 soil probes? Only use the moisture part if it's analog, not digital and even then... . The light meter is in lumens which have naught to do with PAR. It's not even good as a reference even if you knew exact PAR and tried to translate. Forget apples and oranges, it's more like apples and rocks. The Ph meter is the bottom scale with the shortest travel so forget tenths, you're taking a WAG just getting a whole number. Might be better if it were the top scale where the graduations would be further apart, but as is, it's Close-n-Play. The moisture meter is good, and now you think you'll use it for ever and ever as such. Reality is you'll soon just stick your finger in the top inch of soil, give the side of the pot a thump, listening to the sound it makes and go from there.
Bright side is it makes an excellent soil aerator so every couple of days I'll stick it in the pot, not even looking at the meter, to let some air in. I have the plastic label stakes and every time I aerate, I do it at the stake and then move the stake a few inches around the circumference to keep track where I was. I do it right before watering, while I'm adjusting Ph air gets in and then the water closes the hole back up. Just one in and out is all it takes, you don't want to roto-till, just let a breath get drawn in a little deeper for a few ticks. The do the same thing to golf courses, only they fill the holes with seeded sand or loam, depending if it's green or fairway. Golf courses are the greenest things around and the plants don't suffer fools very well as they're kept so short. So I didn't think it up on my very own, just adapted a concept to my course.
Again, soil Ph is only an issue if you dig it from the yard or the like. Commercial blends have to be correct, just for liability purposes. If the soil's correct and the water you add's correct then the only thing that could possibly get you is incorrect watering. Correct watering is done slowly and until no more than a cup or two, depending on the pot (those pesky variables again), flows from the bottom. This mimics Nature raining and what soaks into the ground doesn't stop until it hits hardpan and creates an aquifer. The benefit to plants is it's a nice gentle flush instead of a composting toilet or a gully-washed that carried it down stream and waste is removed. Now, think of the aquifer. It's going to be a concentrator, just like a salmon acquires Mercury or a Condor DDT? Anyways hopefully you get the picture. If your pot is on a flat surface when you water, that surface become the bottom of the aquifer so the waste will concentrate on the bottom. Also, it slows flow to carry the waste through and out. Water on some type of grate.
This is for soil, only. Other grow media are different, so take that into account.
Off to bathe the guard piglet, hope this helps.
LOL. Thanks, do I win some sort of prize?
LOL One pain free day
OKay, 2 (more) questions for now
Okay, I have 2 more newbie questions please. I have put my seedlings in my grow tent with my 600 watt LED at 46 inches from plants. Do i turn the light off at all now to give them some night time? Number 2, I am wanting to prepare my 5 gallon planters with soil. I have kind hot soil and Fox Farms soil. What is a good mixture of both of these that I should put in the bottom of the pot before I fill with Fox Farm soil? Thanks JI take it you have one of those 3 in 1 soil probes? Only use the moisture part if it's analog, not digital and even then... . The light meter is in lumens which have naught to do with PAR. It's not even good as a reference even if you knew exact PAR and tried to translate. Forget apples and oranges, it's more like apples and rocks. The Ph meter is the bottom scale with the shortest travel so forget tenths, you're taking a WAG just getting a whole number. Might be better if it were the top scale where the graduations would be further apart, but as is, it's Close-n-Play. The moisture meter is good, and now you think you'll use it for ever and ever as such. Reality is you'll soon just stick your finger in the top inch of soil, give the side of the pot a thump, listening to the sound it makes and go from there.
Bright side is it makes an excellent soil aerator so every couple of days I'll stick it in the pot, not even looking at the meter, to let some air in. I have the plastic label stakes and every time I aerate, I do it at the stake and then move the stake a few inches around the circumference to keep track where I was. I do it right before watering, while I'm adjusting Ph air gets in and then the water closes the hole back up. Just one in and out is all it takes, you don't want to roto-till, just let a breath get drawn in a little deeper for a few ticks. The do the same thing to golf courses, only they fill the holes with seeded sand or loam, depending if it's green or fairway. Golf courses are the greenest things around and the plants don't suffer fools very well as they're kept so short. So I didn't think it up on my very own, just adapted a concept to my course.
Again, soil Ph is only an issue if you dig it from the yard or the like. Commercial blends have to be correct, just for liability purposes. If the soil's correct and the water you add's correct then the only thing that could possibly get you is incorrect watering. Correct watering is done slowly and until no more than a cup or two, depending on the pot (those pesky variables again), flows from the bottom. This mimics Nature raining and what soaks into the ground doesn't stop until it hits hardpan and creates an aquifer. The benefit to plants is it's a nice gentle flush instead of a composting toilet or a gully-washed that carried it down stream and waste is removed. Now, think of the aquifer. It's going to be a concentrator, just like a salmon acquires Mercury or a Condor DDT? Anyways hopefully you get the picture. If your pot is on a flat surface when you water, that surface become the bottom of the aquifer so the waste will concentrate on the bottom. Also, it slows flow to carry the waste through and out. Water on some type of grate.
This is for soil, only. Other grow media are different, so take that into account.
Off to bathe the guard piglet, hope this helps.
