Hi, I think I need to flush the one on the right but have concerns as she is 4 weeks in to flower. The ph of her feed is 6.3/4 and ppm is 1150, feed is bio bizz and she’s in soil. I have a few questions and I am hoping you lovely people can answer them. Will it be ok to flush as she is in flower? should I feed her straight after the flush at the the same ppm? Hope you can help.
A few flushing questions
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derek910
Well-Known Member
You don't need to worry about ppm in soil. Do you have a feeding schedule for your nutrient line? Why do you think you need to flush? Flushing is typically done if there are too much nutrients and the plant is showing signs of toxicity. It can also be done if using synthetic nutrients that leave salt behind as a way to flush the salts out and also any left behind nutrients. Looks like she needs nitrogen to me since the whole plant is faded like that. @Emilya any thoughts?
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
One plant looks to be underfed...
I would suggest upping the feed. I see nothing to indicate that a flush is needed or will help with the underfeeding but I have too few clues as to what is going on to advise one way or the other. Are you doing feed/water/feed/water?
I would suggest upping the feed. I see nothing to indicate that a flush is needed or will help with the underfeeding but I have too few clues as to what is going on to advise one way or the other. Are you doing feed/water/feed/water?
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I am feeding her every 3 days and each time with feed. I thought she might have a nut lock out due to a build up of salt,
I do have a feeding schedule from Biobizz but find that if do it exactly as it states I get burn on the plants, I didn’t realise ppm was not a problem in soil, why does she have the first signs of burn on the tips? I thought flushing would get rid of all the salt build up as I thought the has a lock out.
thanks for your reply’s and help, please ask any questions as I really want to learn.
derek910
Well-Known Member
A little bit of tip burn is ok. That just means you are pushing your plants to the maximum and went just a bit too far. As long as the plant is healthy with a little tip burn, it will be fine. You should follow the schedule especially if you are learning. I did a quick google search and Bio Bizz is organic nutrients. You don't need to worry about salts with organic nutrients either. Salts are left behind with synthetic nutrients. Why are you watering your plants every 3 days? Do they actually need to be watered. Is the pot still heavy? What size pots are those in?
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
You have mistakenly identified the little tip triangle burns as indicating overfeeding, when in actuality it is the plant indicating that it has gotten just enough. Every organically grown plant I have ever grown has done exactly the same thing, although I am not feeding them, so I can not be overfeeding them. I strongly suggest you get back to what the feeding schedule suggests you to give your plants and then look for true signs of overfeeding, such as clawing of the leaves and clear nutritional lockouts. Until you see that, you need to use your fertilizers as intended.
Again, I don't see signs of any particular lockout... I see a plant that is getting a deficiency in everything.
Regarding ppm... most soil growers do not worry about the ppm of their incoming fluids and dont even own a ppm meter. We are perfectly fine using the ?ml/L or tsp/gal measurements to mix up our nutes. PPM is important to hydro growers, but the numbers used there are not the same as what is used it soil. Mixing hydro and soil methods always leads to trouble.
Soil has an ability that water based systems do not have... the soil can hold nutrients temporarily for later use by the plant. Because of this, soil gardeners know to water/feed/water/feed, knowing that by giving pH adjusted water (6.3pH) on every other pass the stored nutes in the soil reactivate and are again available to the plant. This not only cleans out the soil of leftover nutes, but it gives the plants a little lighter hit of nutrients on that second pass than on the first... the first pass with the stronger nutes being what causes the indicator discussed above. The plant calms down on that water only pass seeing lighter nutes and all is well in the plant world.
By giving the recommended amount of nutes every time, you indeed overloaded the system, and I suspect that along with the singed leaf tips, your plants started looking quite sickly, with clawed leaves and signs of lockouts. The problem wasn't the nutes or the feeding chart, it was your application of it.
Get back to full nutes every other time as the vast majority of soil growers do, and I suspect that all of your troubles will go away.
Again, I don't see signs of any particular lockout... I see a plant that is getting a deficiency in everything.
Regarding ppm... most soil growers do not worry about the ppm of their incoming fluids and dont even own a ppm meter. We are perfectly fine using the ?ml/L or tsp/gal measurements to mix up our nutes. PPM is important to hydro growers, but the numbers used there are not the same as what is used it soil. Mixing hydro and soil methods always leads to trouble.
Soil has an ability that water based systems do not have... the soil can hold nutrients temporarily for later use by the plant. Because of this, soil gardeners know to water/feed/water/feed, knowing that by giving pH adjusted water (6.3pH) on every other pass the stored nutes in the soil reactivate and are again available to the plant. This not only cleans out the soil of leftover nutes, but it gives the plants a little lighter hit of nutrients on that second pass than on the first... the first pass with the stronger nutes being what causes the indicator discussed above. The plant calms down on that water only pass seeing lighter nutes and all is well in the plant world.
By giving the recommended amount of nutes every time, you indeed overloaded the system, and I suspect that along with the singed leaf tips, your plants started looking quite sickly, with clawed leaves and signs of lockouts. The problem wasn't the nutes or the feeding chart, it was your application of it.
Get back to full nutes every other time as the vast majority of soil growers do, and I suspect that all of your troubles will go away.
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Thank you so much for you advice, just in case it’s of any use the below is what I am feeding them. After reading your reply’s it does seem like I have made mistakes for sure, so from now on I’ll use the guide from Biobizz and only feed them every other, the pots are light every three days so that’s why I do it that often (small pots unfortunately) should I ph the water even on the plan water ?
9 1/2 litres water left to stand for 24hours
Then the following added
15ml grow (biobizz)
25ml bloom (only when In flower do I add this). (Biobizz)
25ml Heaven (Biobizz)
10ml calmag (plant magic)
25ml Terpinator (only in flower)
3ml top max (Biobizz)
3ml acti-Vera (Biobizz)
3ml Alg-a-mic (biobizz)
1/2 teaspoon (2.5ml) unsulphered pure maladies
And once a week some biosys
To lower the ph I use Canna oregano acid
9 1/2 litres water left to stand for 24hours
Then the following added
15ml grow (biobizz)
25ml bloom (only when In flower do I add this). (Biobizz)
25ml Heaven (Biobizz)
10ml calmag (plant magic)
25ml Terpinator (only in flower)
3ml top max (Biobizz)
3ml acti-Vera (Biobizz)
3ml Alg-a-mic (biobizz)
1/2 teaspoon (2.5ml) unsulphered pure maladies
And once a week some biosys
To lower the ph I use Canna oregano acid
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
yes absolutely pH the plain water inbetween, because it is being in the correct pH range that allows the nutrients to become mobile within the soil and available to the plants. If you water with 7.0 tap water, some of the nutrients would be locked up and invisible to the plants.
