Advice with Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect actual pH readings

[Zebs]

I just swapped over to using advanced nutrients range of PH perfect coco bloom nutrients, but I've been noticing very strange ph changes in my tank. filled the tank 30hours ago, ph was solid at 5.8. tested at lights on ph and was 6.1 and tested again at lights off and ph was 6.4.
its a auto pot system with no return to tank.

full range of nutrients used at the moment are
sensei coco bloom a+b 3ml/lt (75% dose)
rhino skin 1ml/lt (50% dose)
b52 1ml/lt (50% dose)
coco big bud 1ml/lt (50% dose)
cal mag extra 1ml/lt (50% dose)
bud factor x 1ml/lt (50% dose)
bud candy 1ml/lt (50% dose)
r/o water ppm at start is 5-8 ppm, when mixed is 1100

the plants all are fine and showing no signs currently of ph related issues, so I'm wondering if anyone who has more experience with this range can advise if these wonky ph readings are normal with these nutrients.

 

[BuddroGreen]

AN nutrients are Chelated, meaning they deliver the nutrient to the root zone with a pH value between 4.5-8.5pH regardless, so even if your reservoir pH is 6.4pH, they are still delivering nutrient to the plant and making it available, that's why your plants look fine. The pH perfect molecules work for about 5-7 days so keep an eye on your reservoir after that period of time, sometimes my reservoir will go 10-12 days before change and that's when you really need to pay attention.

As long as you use AN products and not another companies additives etc you should be fine, when you start mixing AN, GH, etc together that's when ugly problems can show up.

 

[OldMedUser]

High Zeb

Trust the nutes. I haven't bothered checking pH since I ran out of the older AN 3-part and switched to pH Perfect over a year ago. It's been working great in DWC and soilless.

I sometimes don't change nutes for over a month or more and haven't had any problems.

 

[Rifleman]

A note on the AN PH Perfect, I use them in separate 5 gallon DWC buckets. The PH will climb and additional ph down must be added to keep my grows healthy. Was just going to let the nutrients handle it on my last grow and they were not pretty. Of course YMMV.

 

[SquareHead]

I haven't used a Ph pen or Ph adjusters since I began with AN Ph Perfect. I have had absolutely no problems. It would be pretty hard to get me to change at this point... I grow in soil.

 

[iwltfum]

AN nutrients are Chelated, meaning they deliver the nutrient to the root zone with a pH value between 4.5-8.5pH regardless, so even if your reservoir pH is 6.4pH, they are still delivering nutrient to the plant and making it available, that's why your plants look fine. The pH perfect molecules work for about 5-7 days so keep an eye on your reservoir after that period of time, sometimes my reservoir will go 10-12 days before change and that's when you really need to pay attention.

As long as you use AN products and not another companies additives etc you should be fine, when you start mixing AN, GH, etc together that's when ugly problems can show up.

I don't know enough about AN to know for sure, but chelation is just when a micro-nutrient molecule (mostly some kind of metal) is surrounded by a chelating molecule which prevents the oxidization of that molecule by either oxygen or hydroxides in the root zone. It doesn't have very much to do with pH or pH change.

Most hydroponic nutrients (and alot of organic nutrients) contain chelated ingredients. For example: EDTA or DTPA are synthetic chelatants that you will find in many hydroponic lines of nutrients. The derived from list will read: Copper EDTA, Zinc EDTA, Iron DTPA, ect. Fe2 is often chelated with DTPA because Fe2 wants to turn into Fe3 in the presence of oxygen or hydroxides. Fe3 is a non-bioavaliable form of iron, whereas Fe2 is a bioavailable form of iron. This just keeps the nutrient solution available to the plants and free of superfluous nutrient build ups.

If you know how AN pH perfect keeps their nutrients buffered with chelatants, I'd be really curious to know how exactly they do that.

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

Some pretty cool reading

 

[BuddroGreen]

I don't know enough about AN to know for sure, but chelation is just when a micro-nutrient molecule (mostly some kind of metal) is surrounded by a chelating molecule which prevents the oxidization of that molecule by either oxygen or hydroxides in the root zone. It doesn't have very much to do with pH or pH change.

Most hydroponic nutrients (and alot of organic nutrients) contain chelated ingredients. For example: EDTA or DTPA are synthetic chelatants that you will find in many hydroponic lines of nutrients. The derived from list will read: Copper EDTA, Zinc EDTA, Iron DTPA, ect. Fe2 is often chelated with DTPA because Fe2 wants to turn into Fe3 in the presence of oxygen or hydroxides. Fe3 is a non-bioavaliable form of iron, whereas Fe2 is a bioavailable form of iron. This just keeps the nutrient solution available to the plants and free of superfluous nutrient build ups.

If you know how AN pH perfect keeps their nutrients buffered with chelatants, I'd be really curious to know how exactly they do that.

It's a two part system, the pH Perfect molecules work to control pH for 7-10 days in my experience, and the chelation hooks or forces the nutrients into the roots and plant.

And like Rifleman, I too experienced pH'ing down most of the time when the pH Perfect molecules stopped holding true, especially when you have a bloom booster from another company in the soup and you need to hold a true 5.8-6.0 in hydro.

Mixing different companies with AN does work, but you still have to watch your pH if you want your other cheaper companies product to work right and keep the girls happy, and sometimes they clash.

There's a video on youtube that shows the process, it's called "pH Perfect Technology is Here" it didn't have any reference to cannabis, so I didn't embed it

I'll add that I'm not a AN fanboy or anything, I use different nutrients from time to time. I have used GH, Botanicare, Atami, AN...next I'll be trying Heavy 16, Mills...(pays the bills)...heh. I think AN is about like the others with the buffers, chelation, but it seems to grow'em bigger and tastier so far.

 

[Zebs]

ph in the tank was 6.7 after 2 days and 6.8/9 after 3 days. plants are fine so I guess ill put away the ph pen and not worry about it if they show signs of a problem.

 

[Rifleman]

ph in the tank was 6.7 after 2 days and 6.8/9 after 3 days. plants are fine so I guess ill put away the ph pen and not worry about it if they show signs of a problem.

If you don't adjust it down the PH will continue to climb and damage will occur. Take a look at my Amnesia Lemon journal and you will see what I mean. I now keep a new ph pen in reserve for when the primary one dies an untimely death.