So, one of my girls delevoped root rot. I have been able to keep my water temps around 64f to 68f degrees. However, I some how managed to get root rot. I am using dwc. Strain of plant infected green crack, she spread some of it to one of my other plants but I separated them and she recovered quickly.
- Thread starter
- #2
Using a good bacterial tea will fix it. I helped a guy recently who tried everything in high doses and he couldn't get it to go away (that is the real problem with sterile IMO, here is no such thing just sterile enough...). It took a lot of convincing as he didn't want to leave the sterile world, not even for just a few days to kill the pithyum. 24 hours in the tea and it was all cleared up. Even though I told him he could go back he saw such explosive root growth and improved plants he never went back. Saved his crop. He made a journal you can see for yourself.
What's the difference between a sterile rez and a beneficial rez?
RDWC - Advice Welcome!
Undercurrent RDWC With Compost Tea Grow - First Journal
What's the difference between a sterile rez and a beneficial rez?
RDWC - Advice Welcome!
Undercurrent RDWC With Compost Tea Grow - First Journal
- Thread starter
- #4
Your the man, I ordered some: ewc, molasses and mycorrhizae. I just started using hydroguard today, hopefully it will keep me stable till I am able to brew some tea. Question, what temps should I keep my water at with the hesinebreg tea?
I try to keep it still reasonable. I have read on here people how let it go all out warm becasue it just doesn't matter. If you have the good stuff in there they will win up to a point. I always read I think above around 76ish it can be bad but this guy was saying he let it get to the 80's no problem.
I know that I never really have to worry about it. I run in my garage which is generally cool even with my lights on but it gets up there and I never have an issue. The good stuff wins when done right.
Sterile has its place and is good way to do certain things...but I always say once it fails you gotta go jump into the world of the living res to fix it.
At the end of the grow the system will seem a bit dirty but is all cleans out easily. it is gonna be nasty now anyway.
I just brewed my version and documented it in my journal yesterday so if you hit the link in my sig you can see step by step how I do it.
4-6 cups per plant poured through the medium (not directly into the res). Introduce it through the problem area and the rest will take care of itself.
I know that I never really have to worry about it. I run in my garage which is generally cool even with my lights on but it gets up there and I never have an issue. The good stuff wins when done right.
Sterile has its place and is good way to do certain things...but I always say once it fails you gotta go jump into the world of the living res to fix it.
At the end of the grow the system will seem a bit dirty but is all cleans out easily. it is gonna be nasty now anyway.
I just brewed my version and documented it in my journal yesterday so if you hit the link in my sig you can see step by step how I do it.
4-6 cups per plant poured through the medium (not directly into the res). Introduce it through the problem area and the rest will take care of itself.
- Thread starter
- #6
i was suggested to make this brew in the last 2 or 3 weeks of flowering, would you use something like this
Raw brown surgar and citric acid mix
You get 1 litre (1/4 of a gallon) of warm water then add 1 ounce (28gms) of Raw sugar and 28 gms (1oz) of Citric Acid. mix it up till all the crystals disolve then store it in a opaque bottle. Add at the rate of 1 ml per litre or 1 coke capful per Gallon
Raw brown surgar and citric acid mix
You get 1 litre (1/4 of a gallon) of warm water then add 1 ounce (28gms) of Raw sugar and 28 gms (1oz) of Citric Acid. mix it up till all the crystals disolve then store it in a opaque bottle. Add at the rate of 1 ml per litre or 1 coke capful per Gallon
- Thread starter
- #7
That wont hurt but is a fraction of what you want.
Brown sugar is not the best way to go. It aint bad but molasses or an off the shelf pre broken down one like sugaree is better. The right kind of Molasses is the cheapest way but to do it right there is a bit of a process to get it broken down. Not to difficult though...google it.
The tea in my journal I use exclusively nowadays in my soil grows. Haven't done a DWC in a while but when I go back I will see how far I can get using just that in there as well. It has everything a plant needs plus a lot of extras.
If you want big fat sticky resinous buds make sure to add in the crab meal or shrimp meal (some sort of crustacean). That will give the plant a sort of fake allergic reaction and it boosts its immune system causing all sorts of great benefits . one is it produces copious amounts of rein to make the plant in hospitable. another is it make fatty flowers it increase the viability and chance of having off spring.
Throw that in with the worm casting tea and some Kelp extract and alfalfa (just like I show) and you have yourself a supper killer product. Throw in some bat guano for some Phos and it does amazing in bloom. It is all in the journal and there are links to other threads that explain the reasons and hows. I have written it out too many times I am just dropping links now.
For you though to take out the pithyum you want a worm casting tea. The rest of the stuff just makes it awesome sauce.
Brown sugar is not the best way to go. It aint bad but molasses or an off the shelf pre broken down one like sugaree is better. The right kind of Molasses is the cheapest way but to do it right there is a bit of a process to get it broken down. Not to difficult though...google it.
The tea in my journal I use exclusively nowadays in my soil grows. Haven't done a DWC in a while but when I go back I will see how far I can get using just that in there as well. It has everything a plant needs plus a lot of extras.
If you want big fat sticky resinous buds make sure to add in the crab meal or shrimp meal (some sort of crustacean). That will give the plant a sort of fake allergic reaction and it boosts its immune system causing all sorts of great benefits . one is it produces copious amounts of rein to make the plant in hospitable. another is it make fatty flowers it increase the viability and chance of having off spring.
Throw that in with the worm casting tea and some Kelp extract and alfalfa (just like I show) and you have yourself a supper killer product. Throw in some bat guano for some Phos and it does amazing in bloom. It is all in the journal and there are links to other threads that explain the reasons and hows. I have written it out too many times I am just dropping links now.
For you though to take out the pithyum you want a worm casting tea. The rest of the stuff just makes it awesome sauce.
- Thread starter
- #9
That wont hurt but is a fraction of what you want.
Brown sugar is not the best way to go. It aint bad but molasses or an off the shelf pre broken down one like sugaree is better. The right kind of Molasses is the cheapest way but to do it right there is a bit of a process to get it broken down. Not to difficult though...google it.
The tea in my journal I use exclusively nowadays in my soil grows. Haven't done a DWC in a while but when I go back I will see how far I can get using just that in there as well. It has everything a plant needs plus a lot of extras.
If you want big fat sticky resinous buds make sure to add in the crab meal or shrimp meal (some sort of crustacean). That will give the plant a sort of fake allergic reaction and it boosts its immune system causing all sorts of great benefits . one is it produces copious amounts of rein to make the plant in hospitable. another is it make fatty flowers it increase the viability and chance of having off spring.
Throw that in with the worm casting tea and some Kelp extract and alfalfa (just like I show) and you have yourself a supper killer product. Throw in some bat guano for some Phos and it does amazing in bloom. It is all in the journal and there are links to other threads that explain the reasons and hows. I have written it out too many times I am just dropping links now.
For you though to take out the pithyum you want a worm casting tea. The rest of the stuff just makes it awesome sauce.
Do you put your soil in a sock, when you are brewing your tea? Or do you just mix everything together?
LiquidBud
New Member
Hi McJoint,
You're supposed to put ewc into sock, so no dirt is getting into tea. Unless you're brewing it for outdoor grow :}
Im also wondering about this tea, as I maybe getting the same problems. Actually I wanted to find thread where VillageIdiot is active, so I can ask him. I've seen him helping a lot regarding this question and he seems to be the sensei of this topic.
So master "idiot" would you please be so kind and help me with this question ?
This is a copy paste, from other thread.. I'm too lazy to write it again
You're supposed to put ewc into sock, so no dirt is getting into tea. Unless you're brewing it for outdoor grow :}
Im also wondering about this tea, as I maybe getting the same problems. Actually I wanted to find thread where VillageIdiot is active, so I can ask him. I've seen him helping a lot regarding this question and he seems to be the sensei of this topic.
So master "idiot" would you please be so kind and help me with this question ?
Hi guys,
Hope you will see my post here, as I dont want to create yet another "bennie" post.
Im in similar situation to coffee's. Tried to run sterile, but then panic attacks, and almost killed it all with my peroxide baths, you can watch my progress in my journal.
At this moment, I am one week after sterilization of my system. At first I had those beautiful white roots with lots of root hair growing, and then I;ve noticed little amberish goo on the roots. Next day all roots was covered in the same slime, Could some one of you identify this ?
Also I was using same thing Rhyzotonic and Cannazym from Canna. I still doubt of the slime thing, cause I can't smell anything bad, and I thought thats nutes climbing my roots. But hey, they advertise that roots would be white, and they're all slimey..
So I decided to try bennie tea, but in the shitcountry I stay, theres no products to choose from ( I cant get a hold of Ancient Forest and so on)
What I can get hold of:
Wormcastings (Replacing ancient forest) ?
Syrup (Replacing Molasses) ?
Quantum-VSC (Replacing I dont know what, but it contains : Humic acid, Bacilus subtilis, Bacilus amyloliquefaciens, Rhodopseudomonas palustris)
The question is simple, could these items make a good bennie tea, which would help to get rid of those bad goo ?
Thank you guys
This is a copy paste, from other thread.. I'm too lazy to write it again
I used to filter it a lot and even used a sock. It is unnecessary. It can lead to some staining in DWC but the nutes I use stain anyway. White roots are not really a sign of the best root system...they are a sign of one kind of root system. Understanding healthy roots regardless of color is actually a good skill to learn.
In a soil grow it really doesn't matter to over filter. However if you brew it properly and long enough it will leach everything out and the sludge that is left is useless.
When I first started doing this I would double filter through a sieve and then put an old wool sock on the end of a big funnel made for working in the shop and even after 2 filterings like this the sock would fill up...but I was doing 4 gallons at the time.
Now I am only doing 2 gallons at a time. So I can easily pick it up and pour slowly and get a decent filter through just one pour.
It took a while to get the dosing correctly. In the beginning I was overdoing it and getting some awesome results but the resin was so high you had to clean out the pipe way too often and it was killing my lungs. Great to vap or cook down but it was a bit much to smoke. But that is becasue of all the other stuff I add not the bacteria. I use the bacteria to make my own boosters. Like I said I just posted it in my journal a few days back, still on the last page (8). My plant had sap oozing out all over in my DWC grow where I over did it. This was a popcorn bud from well under the canopy of the SCROG. It was sick stuff. Sap everywhere and it made harvest a beotch
So now, like I said, usually about 4 cups a plant and in hydro and put it through the medium to get it in the spot it needs to go.
One extra point to think about.
Bacteria grows where bacteria grows. The problem with running sterile is it doesn't actually get sterilized everywhere. Most commonly in the medium and the pump you will still have pithyum and it tends to come back a week after you thought you cleaned it out. You need to keep adding H2O2 well after you think it is gone and just keep doing it hard core. You really gotta commit to going sterile.
The reason Bennies work is they end up growing and breeding in the same campgrounds. So wherever the bennies are the bad stuff aint. That is some of the real magic well beyond all the nutritional benefits. The good stuff moves in and kicks out the bad.
I have heard of people replacing all their lines and even pumps becasue they just couldn't get it out. But if you replace all those locations with beneficial stuff you are golden.
Just do it every 2 weeks or so. Basically they live just under a week and then it takes about a week for enough food to build up for them to be worth adding again. Advanced Nutrients and other trustworthy brands have it on a 2 week schedule just for that purpose. That is why I made a version that is complete. If I am adding it all the time I might as well not just be high nitrogen and get a balance so it doesn't burn and cause problems. In my DWC I can cut back on the nutes for a few days and just run the brew. It comes out at about 800PPM so it is a strong brew that is good to cut down.
In soil I can just use my tea and nothing else. That is what I did on my plant in the POTM contest and that is what I am doing in my journal now. Nothing special just my tea here and there.
More popcorn from that grow.
Like I said A few days back I just did it.
At 18 hours the plant looked like this.
And then at 42 hours, even the lower leaves that were having problems from being root bound in the starter pot are rebounding nicely.
Shit works bro!
In a soil grow it really doesn't matter to over filter. However if you brew it properly and long enough it will leach everything out and the sludge that is left is useless.
When I first started doing this I would double filter through a sieve and then put an old wool sock on the end of a big funnel made for working in the shop and even after 2 filterings like this the sock would fill up...but I was doing 4 gallons at the time.
Now I am only doing 2 gallons at a time. So I can easily pick it up and pour slowly and get a decent filter through just one pour.
It took a while to get the dosing correctly. In the beginning I was overdoing it and getting some awesome results but the resin was so high you had to clean out the pipe way too often and it was killing my lungs. Great to vap or cook down but it was a bit much to smoke. But that is becasue of all the other stuff I add not the bacteria. I use the bacteria to make my own boosters. Like I said I just posted it in my journal a few days back, still on the last page (8). My plant had sap oozing out all over in my DWC grow where I over did it. This was a popcorn bud from well under the canopy of the SCROG. It was sick stuff. Sap everywhere and it made harvest a beotch
So now, like I said, usually about 4 cups a plant and in hydro and put it through the medium to get it in the spot it needs to go.
One extra point to think about.
Bacteria grows where bacteria grows. The problem with running sterile is it doesn't actually get sterilized everywhere. Most commonly in the medium and the pump you will still have pithyum and it tends to come back a week after you thought you cleaned it out. You need to keep adding H2O2 well after you think it is gone and just keep doing it hard core. You really gotta commit to going sterile.
The reason Bennies work is they end up growing and breeding in the same campgrounds. So wherever the bennies are the bad stuff aint. That is some of the real magic well beyond all the nutritional benefits. The good stuff moves in and kicks out the bad.
I have heard of people replacing all their lines and even pumps becasue they just couldn't get it out. But if you replace all those locations with beneficial stuff you are golden.
Just do it every 2 weeks or so. Basically they live just under a week and then it takes about a week for enough food to build up for them to be worth adding again. Advanced Nutrients and other trustworthy brands have it on a 2 week schedule just for that purpose. That is why I made a version that is complete. If I am adding it all the time I might as well not just be high nitrogen and get a balance so it doesn't burn and cause problems. In my DWC I can cut back on the nutes for a few days and just run the brew. It comes out at about 800PPM so it is a strong brew that is good to cut down.
In soil I can just use my tea and nothing else. That is what I did on my plant in the POTM contest and that is what I am doing in my journal now. Nothing special just my tea here and there.
More popcorn from that grow.
Like I said A few days back I just did it.
At 18 hours the plant looked like this.
And then at 42 hours, even the lower leaves that were having problems from being root bound in the starter pot are rebounding nicely.
Shit works bro!
I throw a cap of hydrogen peroxide in my reservoir every few weeks. My reservoir is only 5 liters so a cap is enough. I also make sure my water is the proper PH and I keep an air stone bubbling in it. Keeps my roots nice and white. They grow out of the pot and down into the reservoir.
Yeah the problem isn't that sterile doesn't work. the problem is when it doesn't people have a real hard time fixing it. Usually it becomes a non stop battle until they switch for a while. After it is all cleaned up they can go back. Most do not becasue it is easier and cheaper and provides superior results but like anything you have to do it correctly.
- Thread starter
- #14
I have to agree with VI. To have a completely sterilize grow, you need to have a positive pressure grow room. Most grow rooms are negative to be able to contain the smell. With a negative grow space you will constantly be drawing in dust, hair, dirt, etc. I have 3 dogs and I don't even let them go in the room where my box is set up and I can't keep out the dog hair not matter hard I try. I clean and sanitize everyday but there is always some thing in the box every time. Yea h202 will kill off most of the bacteria but it won't last every long and you will constantly have to add in more H202, which can get real expensive fast.
- Thread starter
- #15
You saying to add in the juice every other week; I do res changes every week, does that me with the tea, I should change my res less often? Also what about storage, should I keep it in a non clear container, should it be kept at room temperature? How will the tea last b4 I gotta toss it out and make some new stuff? Also how does this stuff affect my ph? Should I ph plain water and then add the tea or should I add the tea and then ph?Yeah the problem isn't that sterile doesn't work. the problem is when it doesn't people have a real hard time fixing it. Usually it becomes a non stop battle until they switch for a while. After it is all cleaned up they can go back. Most do not becasue it is easier and cheaper and provides superior results but like anything you have to do it correctly.
Ahh great questions!
I always make what I need and toss the rest because it is so cheap and easy to make. I bought materials over a year ago and I am still working through them. But I do smaller grows.
Most people claim you can keep the tea in a fridge for a few days. I have never tried it but I would think that makes them slow way down increasing time before dying. I think like 4 days or so is the most. I would post that specific question in the FAQ. I just don't do it. I make what I need. I adjust the recipe to the number of plants I have or make a minimum 2 gallons.
As far as weekly goes...I don't know what method and products you use but one of the great things about going live is you don't need to do res changes. I go at least 4 weeks and usually much longer because the microbes keep it stable and clean. I have a buddy who has been growing a long time and never changes the res and just top off. So you may consider trying to extend your res change to 2 weeks and just add it at every new res. I still think every other week would be fine. That is what Advanced Nutrients recommends with their product and they also recommend weekly res changes. The point is the bacteria last around 4-6 days so for the first few days they are working and by the end of the week they have eaten everything there is and they die. At that point the res is nice and clean and adding more is kind of wasteful. So you can wait a week before anything bad builds up enough to be ready for the next batch. So Advanced nutrients tells us to ass theirs every other week on a weekly res change schedule so that probably would work for you.
The dealio with that is, not only does the tea come out at 800 PPM and full of fertilizers but it causes very quick uptake and explosive growth. So you need to be prepared to handle fast growing plants and be able to adjust your feeding accordingly. For example if you start a new res with this stuff and you should be at 500PPM. then you do some math. And figure out...
I have 8 plants in the res each getting 4 cups so 2 gallons at 800 PPM.
I am adding that to a res that is properly sized for 8 plants so is 40 gallons. So I have 38 gallons of nutrient solution to make.
I want my PPM to be about 500 so adding 2 gallons of 800ppm will bring it up a bit.
So 40 gallons at 500 PPM is 20000 Parts
and 2 gallons at 800 PPM is 1600 Parts.
so I need to make 38 gallons to have the rest which is 18400 Parts which comes out to about 484 PPM
So you mix up the 38 gallons to 480 PPM and put that in the res. Then pour 4 cups Tea through each basket and you are golden.
But when I do this right my plants start going through more than a gallon a day of high concentration nute solution. I have to top of daily with a ton of stuff and was running upwards of 1300 PPM in the res. So if you do this right be prepared for the shit to explode on you.
So long as you have a good light!!!
I always make what I need and toss the rest because it is so cheap and easy to make. I bought materials over a year ago and I am still working through them. But I do smaller grows.
Most people claim you can keep the tea in a fridge for a few days. I have never tried it but I would think that makes them slow way down increasing time before dying. I think like 4 days or so is the most. I would post that specific question in the FAQ. I just don't do it. I make what I need. I adjust the recipe to the number of plants I have or make a minimum 2 gallons.
As far as weekly goes...I don't know what method and products you use but one of the great things about going live is you don't need to do res changes. I go at least 4 weeks and usually much longer because the microbes keep it stable and clean. I have a buddy who has been growing a long time and never changes the res and just top off. So you may consider trying to extend your res change to 2 weeks and just add it at every new res. I still think every other week would be fine. That is what Advanced Nutrients recommends with their product and they also recommend weekly res changes. The point is the bacteria last around 4-6 days so for the first few days they are working and by the end of the week they have eaten everything there is and they die. At that point the res is nice and clean and adding more is kind of wasteful. So you can wait a week before anything bad builds up enough to be ready for the next batch. So Advanced nutrients tells us to ass theirs every other week on a weekly res change schedule so that probably would work for you.
The dealio with that is, not only does the tea come out at 800 PPM and full of fertilizers but it causes very quick uptake and explosive growth. So you need to be prepared to handle fast growing plants and be able to adjust your feeding accordingly. For example if you start a new res with this stuff and you should be at 500PPM. then you do some math. And figure out...
I have 8 plants in the res each getting 4 cups so 2 gallons at 800 PPM.
I am adding that to a res that is properly sized for 8 plants so is 40 gallons. So I have 38 gallons of nutrient solution to make.
I want my PPM to be about 500 so adding 2 gallons of 800ppm will bring it up a bit.
So 40 gallons at 500 PPM is 20000 Parts
and 2 gallons at 800 PPM is 1600 Parts.
so I need to make 38 gallons to have the rest which is 18400 Parts which comes out to about 484 PPM
So you mix up the 38 gallons to 480 PPM and put that in the res. Then pour 4 cups Tea through each basket and you are golden.
But when I do this right my plants start going through more than a gallon a day of high concentration nute solution. I have to top of daily with a ton of stuff and was running upwards of 1300 PPM in the res. So if you do this right be prepared for the shit to explode on you.
So long as you have a good light!!!
Onkruid
New Member
- Thread starter
- #18
Ahh great questions!
I always make what I need and toss the rest because it is so cheap and easy to make. I bought materials over a year ago and I am still working through them. But I do smaller grows.
Most people claim you can keep the tea in a fridge for a few days. I have never tried it but I would think that makes them slow way down increasing time before dying. I think like 4 days or so is the most. I would post that specific question in the FAQ. I just don't do it. I make what I need. I adjust the recipe to the number of plants I have or make a minimum 2 gallons.
As far as weekly goes...I don't know what method and products you use but one of the great things about going live is you don't need to do res changes. I go at least 4 weeks and usually much longer because the microbes keep it stable and clean. I have a buddy who has been growing a long time and never changes the res and just top off. So you may consider trying to extend your res change to 2 weeks and just add it at every new res. I still think every other week would be fine. That is what Advanced Nutrients recommends with their product and they also recommend weekly res changes. The point is the bacteria last around 4-6 days so for the first few days they are working and by the end of the week they have eaten everything there is and they die. At that point the res is nice and clean and adding more is kind of wasteful. So you can wait a week before anything bad builds up enough to be ready for the next batch. So Advanced nutrients tells us to ass theirs every other week on a weekly res change schedule so that probably would work for you.
The dealio with that is, not only does the tea come out at 800 PPM and full of fertilizers but it causes very quick uptake and explosive growth. So you need to be prepared to handle fast growing plants and be able to adjust your feeding accordingly. For example if you start a new res with this stuff and you should be at 500PPM. then you do some math. And figure out...
I have 8 plants in the res each getting 4 cups so 2 gallons at 800 PPM.
I am adding that to a res that is properly sized for 8 plants so is 40 gallons. So I have 38 gallons of nutrient solution to make.
I want my PPM to be about 500 so adding 2 gallons of 800ppm will bring it up a bit.
So 40 gallons at 500 PPM is 20000 Parts
and 2 gallons at 800 PPM is 1600 Parts.
so I need to make 38 gallons to have the rest which is 18400 Parts which comes out to about 484 PPM
So you mix up the 38 gallons to 480 PPM and put that in the res. Then pour 4 cups Tea through each basket and you are golden.
But when I do this right my plants start going through more than a gallon a day of high concentration nute solution. I have to top of daily with a ton of stuff and was running upwards of 1300 PPM in the res. So if you do this right be prepared for the shit to explode on you.
So long as you have a good light!!!
I use 4 gallons per plant, should I add 4 cups per plant and measures ppm and make up the rest of the ppm with my gh triple
- Thread starter
- #20
