Buying new equipment, Will this work HELP PLZ

L

laroobien

New Member
Aloha guys and gals, My girl got her medical so I am helping her grow. We live in hawaii so was wondering if you think this setup will work. Really concerned with the temp of course since it is always warm. So here it is..

Room---GL120 4*4*6 somewhere around there.

Light----- Daystar 600W with conversion bulb. mother\200wcfl

Medium--- Rainforest 66 We are only allowed 7 plants so was thinkg having 1 mother and growing six out of this.

Fans and misc--- vortex 600,thermo\hygro meter,light hangers, oakton ph tester.

So the room is for the rainforest only. should we get a 400w light instead, just wondering about the vent and heat issues i am sure to run into. the electric is the most taxed here than anywhere in the states so thats a concern. my landlord said it was chill and he pays the bills but just didnt want him to come barking down my door for more loot if it gets out ragist.

My last time growing was with an aeroflo 30 and clones from the berkley seedbank. we used the sun system 7 1K and it turned out GREAT.... So i want to use as much light really as possibe. of coure not a 1K watt but 400 seems so small.

I was talking with the store and they siad that I could pull the heat out the lamp on 1 side and leave the other open to vent the room. Would that work for proper vent. I dont want to have to put and a.c in there thats for sure. What do you all think about that reflector is there another I should be looking at. so many questions I am going to need help with this one so any would be gratefully appreciated. much love....
 
Sounds like u got most everything besides nutes and a TDS/EC meter and a carbon filter (for smell). U got a circulation fan? Intake fan? dehumidifier? Gotta watch for humidity in those tropical climates unless u have a strain that is genetically acclimated to ur particular climate. a 600W HPS in the 4x4 tent for flowering will be fine.If that vortex is a 600CFM then I suggest hooking ur fan up inline with the filter thru an aircooled hood/cooltube and out of the room.If U can't picture it click the Follow My Grow link in my signature and U'll see it in my setup. A 400 would work too. Check out Munki's 400W ScrOG >Munki's Ebb n Flow 3 x 3 SCROG 400W HPS Grow. His looks nice. In my current grow I have a 400W and a 600W in a 9'x5' 1/2" space. Both are working. The advantage of the 400W over the 600W is it generates less heat and can be lowered closer to the canopy. Down side is the 600W probably produces the most lumens for its price and is a more intense light. With them side by side its a trip to see. If I think of any thing else I'll post it. NE more questions, just ask. hope this helps. Welcome to our forums I hope u find all that u need and contribute as much as u glean. :peace:
 
Thanks for your help your on it. Yea I didnt plan on using a carbon filter our neighbor is already stinking up the neighberhood so figured we would join in. lol So I just came across 2 P.L lights 600 hps and 400mh used for $200 and only a 30 mile drive. I think I am going to jump on that, even though I am not into really into buying used things. The shipping alone for a light is half that so pretty excited. They dont come with the air cooled hoods but might be worth upgrading. Well thanks again and will post pics when it is up and going.
 
BWC, Thanks for the heads up, thought about it. He claims they didnt get much use. Do you mean by simply turning it on, store is out of the question so just wondering whats a good way to see if there solid. thanks...
 
yea take a bulb with u so u can plug it all up. See how the ballast sound when igniting the lamp and while its running. If u've ever heard a normal ballast then I think u'd be able to here any odd noise. Also examine to see if either ballast has been opened (look for scratches in screw head and/or broken seals). If any maintenance has been done find out. Also make sure its wired or can be wired to suit ur needs 120V/240V. That's all I could come up with personally. Other people may go about it differently.
 
Depends on the ballist the sound it will make,some are just loud does't mean they are bad.The older ballist have Capacitor that stores a charge. that and the transformer itself are the only 2 parts that generaly go bad.when a ballast go bad they just go.as far as marks on the ballast could have been rebuilt ,do it all the time.I can rebuild a light in 5 min. nothing is writen in stone with used equipment,but learning to repair it is good experiance.replace motors in fans change ballast will save you money in the end.
 
So I went and picked them up and they seem to light up fine and the seals were still intact. He still had the original bulb for each of them. well this seamed to work out just fine. Replace the bulbs and hopefully gets some love out of them. Thanks for the head up guys. Pitviper how difficult is it to do a tune up on them. You make it sound to easy.:Rasta:.
 
Soon will be, appreciated. I forgot to ask 1 important thing and that is what should I use for the intake fan. What cfm does it neeed to be. The outtake is a 449cfm with no filter. I should prob have a charcoal filter connected to the intake. I was just curious if I could get something less for the intake. thanks
 
That's too much for that small space. It will probably balloon the of that tent stretching the material at the seems possibly introducing hundreds of pinhole sized light leaks. Seen it b4, did it b4.I recommend for a 4x4x6 tent a 200 or lower in take and around 300-350 exhaust. I suck at math other money calculations, but the rationale is this. Ur exhaust should be more powerful because U will probably have bends in ducting, lamps (that are being cooled) and perhaps a filter all inline (like I did) obstructing the air flow. Fan can be rated at 300 CFM, but by the end of the exhaust line the flow is diminished by all of these obstructions. So I feel by the CFM offset depending on ur set up u can come close to having equal air pressure. Another lesson learned in my last couple runs. Hope it helps However there is a math equation to calculate real recommended compatible CFM sets for fan pairs. I just don't know the formula. Try calling a hydro store or a manufacturer and ask what they recommend.
 
Wow, thats quite some interesting facts. So the room is 22.4 per/m but was thinking of getting the vortex 6" 445 cfm carb filter for the out take and not really much duct to move through ? is how much cfm does the filter take up. I have been reading 1/2 A 178cfm intake be good. I was reading doc's writings on that and was talking about passive intakes. Could that be possible? Its not in a dark proof room though. Your the man thanks for the help just trying to dial this out to avoid extra costs. :thanks::thanks:
 
Passive intakes on a tent are possible in a room that is not light tight. Just buy some cheap 6-8 inch dryer ducting and pass it through the ducting holes letting it point down towards the floor. Light will not travel around corners and the insulated variety I use has black inside which further absorbs any stray light I have a weak intake on my 4x8 so I added one passive 6inch duct and it did the trick. I ran a 268 cfm with scrubber and a/c 600w in my 3x3 with a 6in booster which was rated at about 150 had no problems with balooning walls were always sucked inwards. I was also running the cheapest fans available have since upgraded to can fan and notice the diff. Hope this helped, if not I'm baked off my ass from the last tent run so it was fun to ramble.Good luck to you and your lady in your endeavours!
 
Smokeyjoe said:
I ran a 268 cfm with scrubber and a/c 600w in my 3x3 with a 6in booster which was rated at about 150 had no problems with ballooning walls were always sucked inwards.
Click to expand...
I should hope not. That sounds like it could work. How were Ur temps? U ever put ur hand below the 600W with the fan on. In a tent we both know a 600W can get cooking fast is that small space. What sized scrubber? Makes a difference. Used an odor sock and a charcoal filter w/same fans. There's a difference in pressure. If ur walls sucked inward that's worse. Not only will it have a similar affects as ballooning (with light leaks thru the seams). I got a Darkroom120 and light leaks of this fashion were common with early models. When the walls are sucked in u got too much negative pressure (exhaust not properly paired up with intake). This results in the canopy growing space (mid level in the tent) will be decreased and depending upon the number of plants the walls will be forcibly leaning on plants smashing leaves into buds or keeping parts of the canopy bent or covered from otherwise usable light and air flow (circulation). Definitely not cool if u have to spray or have mites or something. Mites get on walls and can easily get to other plants touching walls. I've watched them transfer from plant to plant like this. I don't wanna keep rambling. But I feel I have a pretty good idea of what I'm talkin bout. Good luck friend.

Play with ur setup laroobien to see what has what affect on what. U should have it figured out by the time ur plants are ready to go in. Keep doin ur research cuz my word ain't gospel. I can only share what I read and what works 4 me.
 
Alright figured out the room cfm.

So L*W*H gets you the cfm change per minute and an average airfilter will kill 1/2 the cfm. I read for me since I live in a warm area I will have the room exchange 3-5 times per minute. So mines 112 cfm and the fan I was looking at 6in 440cfm. so since the filter will kill 1/2 leaves me with 220cfm so I think that would be 2 room exchanges per minute. lol I think...

I called 5 stores 1 didnt have a clue and 2 were for a 4in and 1 was for a 6in and the other a 6 to 8in fan . Not one of them agreed on a intake fan, just leave some vents open on the bottom. I think I am getting closer.
 
Nope I was off so a Vortex fan 172cfm will exchange the rate in the room in under a minute so I think that will be fine. It might be trail and error and prob ending up getting both 6 and 4in.
 

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