can i fix her?

think it would be a stretch to ask the bio teacher if i could have some ph test papers? :p

what are "cotyledons"?
i dont think i want to do 12/12 with lowryder, but the other stuff i wont have a problem with trying it. if i start in the sun and stay in the sun, will i damage the plants? or is it only if i go from the lights to the sun and back and forth?

i am really learning alot from this... i should have named this thread "my newbie problem, and question thread"
 
klozit said:
think it would be a stretch to ask the bio teacher if i could have some ph test papers? :p

what are "cotyledons"?
i dont think i want to do 12/12 with lowryder, but the other stuff i wont have a problem with trying it. if i start in the sun and stay in the sun, will i damage the plants? or is it only if i go from the lights to the sun and back and forth?

i am really learning alot from this... i should have named this thread "my newbie problem, and question thread"
Click to expand...

Litmus papers will help, but only if you have a scale to compare the colors the paper will change to.

Cotyledons are the first two "pre-leaves" you see on the seedling. These are what the shell casing clings to. Also as the plant grows, it will naturally shed these leaves.

Lowryder is an autoflowering strain which means regardless of light schedule it will finish in about 60 days from seed to bud. From reading your post, I assumed the seedling pictured was not Lowryder. In this case, I find an 18/6 light cycle is best for vegative growth.

Direct sunlight can be damaging to seedlings that are not established enough to handle it. Start the plants under the CFL's and expose them to partial sunlight slowly. Or just grow them under the CFL's exclusively which will work fine also, although you may want more when it comes time to flower. :peace:
 
Litmus papers will help, but only if you have a scale to compare the colors the paper will change to
Click to expand...
i will probably just buy a cheapo meter from lowes.

Lowryder is an autoflowering strain which means regardless of light schedule it will finish in about 60 days from seed to bud. From reading your post, I assumed the seedling pictured was not Lowryder. In this case, I find an 18/6 light cycle is best for vegative growth.
Click to expand...
it was a lowryder seedling.

i am germinating 1 more lowryder, and 2 of the "mystery snickerfritz" that is a sativa/indica hybrid, thats all i know about it... thus, the mystery. so that will give me a total of 2 lowryder and 4 MS. went with even numbers in the hopes that i have a 50% chance or higher of getting a female... maybe if i get one of both of the lowryder i will make seed for winter.

if i have a male lowryder near a MS could it pollenate it too? i want the MS to be sensi

they are going to be started indoors and when the weather is right transplanted outside, atleast i think. that bring up another question.

is the grow season long enough? 12/12 starts around september... we have gotten snow in october before. if they are started now they should be done before first frost right? thats something like 20+ weeks away. (they better be done by then)
 
I am not very familiar with autoflowering strains, but from what I remember most LR growers will put them on 24/0 (light/dark) and let them ride straight until harvest.

Male pollen makes no distinction between strains, so yes a male LR can pollinate and non-autoflowering strain of a different type.

Outdoor timing will all depend on where you are located. Indoors is all I know, so it's all I can help you with. I consider the benefits of indoor growing, such as absolute climate control and lack of pests, a big plus. :peace:
 
lowryder is going to be my full indoor strain. just decided.

i need to get a box together for them... if the pots are wider can they be shallower? im cramped in the height department. i have about 24 inches.

MS will be my outdoor expirement. i need to keep them low so lst or supercropping will be done. very simple nutes will be ran when needed. yield isnt as important as learning how to do it better next time.
 
klozit said:
i think the humidity was good... look at it before it ate shit.
0316092030.jpg


it wasnt sick, just slow. thats it at 6 days

so it is either, the ph (i have some lime i could mix with it), the water (city chlorine shit), and the switching between sun and lights.

i can fix this by, testing the ph and acting accordingly, using distilled water or spring (guessing spring would be better because of the minerals in it), and somehow easing it into the sun. how do i ease it into the sun?

1 went into soil today after cracking last night (lowryder) and 2 went in soil yesterday (free seeds i am calling "mystery snickerfritz" lol)

oh, another question. when they sprout and the seed is still stuck to them what do you do? just let it fall off naturally?

thanks so much guys, i am thinking about starting a lowryder journal... seem to only be lr#2 grows and hydro grows. ill figure it out after it pops up.
Click to expand...

yay its alive!! the rubber band and bag idea wont work. if your not careful you will get stale are like you said. and with that you will increase your chances of mildew,molds and any other undesired problems. if you had a larger area of containment such as a fish tank then it would be fine just remember if your going to try and contain the moisture (i.e. the bag) factor in additional ventilation to keep fresh air flowin! good luck!!
 
thats the one before it was ill. :straightface:


i got a fan and a timer today, going to do the mystery snickerfritz on a 12/12 from the spout. this brings on a few new questions.

how do i quite my fan, the low setting isnt low enough.

will it flower in about 2 months?

is 82*F too hot to grow

how can i keep the humidity up other then the bags? or should i just water accordingly and not worry about the low humidity?

can i run shallow pots if they are wider?

when will i want to run ferts? should i run a general 10-10-10 fert or a flower fert (i forget which nute is higher, i think it is the middle one)

i think i am going to lst to keep height down, know any other method? (scrog isnt a viable option. due to the way my box is)

area is 2ftx3ft and 2ft tall. its painted medium gloss white. that is enough question asking for me right now hahahah :thanks:
 
How to Grow Marijuana

Well my grow is around 82 and doing great after replacing the soil due to a high PH. 12 cubic ft seems small for any grow.
 
klozit said:
that only answers a few of my questions.

and yeah, it is small but if people can grow in pc cabinets then i can grow in a box.
Click to expand...
From what I understand people usually only start their plants in a PC cabinet, I could be wrong. Hey if it can be done I am sure the growers here will do it! Also I understand you start your ferts after one month of veg, or when it looks like your plants need it. As for humidity I have a dome I use for my seedlings and a humidifier for my grow areas, or you could soak some towels in water then put them in a glass jars in the grow area. Even with the humidifier my area only gets to about 60% but is mostly around 50%. As for making the fan more quite, I have the same problem and I have just accepted it as part of the game. Good luck with your area I hope you get your buds,:peace:
 
I dont know about the pots, I would assume that the roots will so what ever way they can to expand. I would think that it should be at least 6" deep but I have no prof to back that up. You could be the first to try it. As for light, I would am using 6 23w cfls for my seedlings and am also experimenting by putting my germ dome under my 400w with my other plants. I am only worrier about burning them so I monitor the temp very closely. I use as much light as I can, after the seeds have sprouted, but I am also very congnisant of temp and humidity.
 
even full grown plants need to get used to the sun or suffer for a while, the little cfl's will be plenty for a few weeks. try using jiffy pots 20 cents each, i say this because whatever is in the soil to make it "organic" is a fertilizer of some sort and may be too strong for this stage of plant. I'm also guessing there is a ton of peat or spaghnum moss (usually is in starter mix's) in it and the ph is in the 4-5 range, dolomite lime can fix that but you'd have to check the ph.
lowes has ph kits, the drop kind, near the pond stuff outside.
 

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